BitMaster
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Posts posted by BitMaster
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That is a FullScreen-BorderlessWindowed-FOCUS issue.
I used to be plagued by it in the past as well. IIRC ALT-TABbing solved it to regain focus/active_window back to the app, in this case DCS.
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Guess so. You could bet if I had bought one it would have been a DOA card, that's usually my luck with my own parts. ever since waahaaa, damn true.
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From my perspective, Pilotasso is right and I keep it the same way.
I think you went a bit over the top and read far too much out of those few lines.
Just my 2 cents
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Worrazen,
thank you ! You showed up things that I completely misunderstood before.
I stayed away from milk and anything with milk for years until I recovered from Lactose intolerance. I know can have some milk in my coffee again and once in a while I make a hot chocolate.
The thing with oils, a great read !
Thank you for typing all that !
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Damn BigNewy,
when did I get the Ka-50..back in 2012...and I never knew about that dial. Explains a lot of what I experienced.
I tell everybody to RTFM...and skipped it myself.
Shame shame shame on ME.
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Similar here, it's the 3rd attempt to fix = F U L L REFUND
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You can save money with the case and fans, keyb and mouse etc.. dont cut corners on motherboard cpu and gpu, those are hard to replace. Better a 2nd mouse n keyboard on the shelf as a2nd set than a dust collecting mobo or GPU.
Tell us what they said and we will counter check that offer ;)
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Thanks David. Im thinking of going to a small shop I know and seeing what they can put together. I'd rather not do business with BB, really.
:thumbup: Support your locals :thumbup:
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.........cut...........
whether it's cooks, truck mechanics, pilots, plumbers, businessmen, or coders, being a ''professional'' doesn't mean you're any good at it, it just means you get a paycheck for doing it. I've known lots of ''professionals'' that didn't know what they were doing.
:music_whistling::thumbup:
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LoL
You need HIGH-REV - BIG-BLOCK CPU
...which basically means, retire your rig. Anything else is not going to bring the desired outcome.
Possible candidates ( all DDR4 based ): Intel 9th series with overclocking to 5G or a AMD Ryzen 3000 series, best a 3700X imho, which will not need any overclocking.
Demon...what did you drink last night ? :megalol:
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Nothing, got too many to cope with already.
Once final I will get the F-16 and likely the Hind as I tend to fly more choppers than fixed wings.
I gave up the plan to "own & operate" them all, the list got too big meanwhile, at least for my 50+ brain :cry:
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Actually, the hidden news in here is that DCS/ED-F16 has so much potential that Thrustmaster issues a "ahem" new device for it. Quite astonishing. The F18 grip as well. It cant be such a niche product anymore I guess, with products and announcements like this.
Maybe that is the only positive thing I can filter out of this.
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:thumbup:
Report back when the door bell rings :D
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They look like this and come as USB20 and USB30/3.1Gen1 mostly. I have yet to find a USB3.1Gen2.
Check your motherboard for connectors. It definitely will have them, just how many and which Generation is a ?.
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:thumbup:
That's how this forum roles :pilotfly:
Respect
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Ahhh, damn, thank you petsild !
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waaahh, your desk is big enough ???
It looks ok to me, maybe the 4ms GTG is not the best but the rest looks great.
If you like the format, why not.
It does not have HDR or any other fancy stuff but has Freesync2. If you are fine with NOT having HDR it's ok, I dont have it either and such I dont miss it. Guess its like Gsync/Freesync, until you have it its ok to not have it at all but once tasted you dont wanna go back.
It trades HDR for other features to stay at a reasonable price. For DCS that does not matter at all tbh as it doesnt have HDR support iirc. As I say, i dont have HDR (yet).
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32GB all the way, regardless if VR or not
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I have configured this a little bit. It has rather the better parts, no compromises, but lacks a CASE LoL
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ypQ7Rk
2300$ incl. that screen, 1TB Samsung 970 EvoPlus, X570 Asus Hero, 32GB, top dog PSU and a 2070Super.
Add the case and you are good to go :)
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When I use SSAA1.5x alone w/o MSAA2x my mirrors dont work :(
Just spend an hour tweaking again after watching Spudknockers YT video... sigh. LoL
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Cotoi, you biggest issue is that CPU. I run the same one as a server and it was great and still is for multicore hard work that does NOT need a lot of MHz. Since you will likely be below 4GHz peak MHz you miss a whole 1GHz that other cheaper CPU's can push, or with new AMD chips who have a higher IPC you could get away better.
My system struggles with CPU and GPU at High/Ultra settings as well. I have to lower this or that to somehow have 60fps and good quality but I cannot have 90fps and all quality turned at max.
Again, imho, your CPU is the wrong one for DCS or any other demanding sim that presses on 1 core mostly. The 1080 is imho not foremost the biggest show stopper. I dare to say it could deliver more if the CPU was faster, depending on your resolution and LOD of course.
* Have you tried to clean install DCS. 130fps down to 40ish seems a bit much imho. Maybe you leave a lot on the table due to a bad install / drivers / etc..
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When I switch to SSAA 1.5x only, my mirrors stay blank mostly and 2x is a no-go, it tanks my fps too much.
I have settled with MSAA2x and SSAA1.5x to get the mirrors back up but in order to save some fps I had to reduce shadows.
I am constantly working on that issue bit my 1080ti is just a little too weak to have both MSAA2x and SSAA1.5 with full shadows, it drops me below 60 for any scene other than blue sky.
My hope is Vulkan tbh. I hope it will give me a 10-20% boost with same hardware.
The problem is, you either have full shadows and little glimmer on trees or you sacrifice the nice glimmer free trees for more fps. I sit between two chairs and cant really decide for either side but the 1080ti cant have both at 1440p.
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I second David with what he said.
In addition, you cannot use your 2600k in any of those newer DDR4 boards, despite the socket hasnt changed much, it is impossible. IIRC only the 3rd gen boards, which are still DDR3, allowed 2nd gen CPUs to be dropped in, but I am not 100% sure and it is not recommended anyways, it wouldnt get you where you want to go.
My advice, to save some bucks, aim for a 3rd gen Ryzen, like a 3600/3600X/3700X CPU with a moderate B450 board, that will only sacrifice the PCIe Gen4 support which is nothing of great use as of today. You are better off with 32GB RAM instead of 16GB for that saved money and/or a bigger GPU.
With what you want to do, you will be GPU limited anyway, so you do not need to strive for the fastest of CPUs but rather grab a GPU as high as you can.
If I was you, I would keep those SSDs and I would keep the 850w PSU for now ( but would buy a new one asap . as money allows ), use your old case + fans and sink all of your money in parts that you cannot alter afterwards w/o big trouble, those are Mobo+CPU+GPU and likely RAM. YOu could go with 16GB and pray that you find a matching kit of additional 16GB later on but I would NOT do that, RAM is likely to rise in the near future again, so I would grab a kit with 32GB and 3200-3600MHz speed of tight latency, that is the best advice I can give you to start with.
Down the road, a few months later, upgrade your PSU, then maybe new fans ( SQUEEK baah ) and finally, if you want, get new drives, like a Samsung 970 Evo Plus 512GB or 1TB and use you old 840s for Data storage, swap drive, games. You wont see a big difference anyway as long as your SSD runs flawless. There have been a few Pilots that had stutter due to SSDs behaving badly, all those were non-Samsung drives and tbh, from what I read regarding reliability charts...I would only buy Samsung. I use Samsung SSDs in all my systems and the only one that ever failed was a 830Evo in my MacBookPro ( sigh ). They have served me well and have served all that I have sold to family and freinds as well, those were quite a few, all 840Evo or newer, like 850Pro and 9series NVMe's. Non has failed yet.
If you think that could fit, get back to me and David and we can make suggestions what specific parts make sense.
Bit
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If money allows I would pick a Gsync screen despite many of us lock DCS down to 60fps ( while keeping the monitor at it's native 144Hz or whatever speed ) if you intend to run Nvidia cards solely. If you think AMD is the way to go, Freesync2 is a valid option I guess.
Maybe one day the 60fps issue will be solved and we can have DCS run at unlocked fps again while using some form of Tracker...or..if you play other games as well, like racing games, Gsync/Freesync does make sense.
I would try to avoid a 60Hz screen. Down the road and over the years that could turn against you when GPUs and tech would allow you to run DCS or any other app you might run to run at far more than 60Hz.
Usually, the screen is one of those few parts that you buy for a much longer time frame than most other parts of your rig.
When I kick in one of my Racing Sims I really enjoy Gsync and even with DCS and unlocked with TiR, I only have little microstutter when panning while Gsync still irons out the other issues, I can live with both setups, locked and unlocked in DCS but I wouldnt wanna miss some kind of Gsync/Freesync.
The next step
in PC Hardware and Related Software
Posted · Edited by BitMaster
As said above by Sn8ke_iis, set your GPU in Nvidia Control Panel to "High Performance" and make sure it is set to Gsync if you runa GSync screen as well as the desired Hz.
For Windows power plan settings, I recommend you make a shortcut to the "old" battery icon located in the "old" control panel" and then toggle from "Balanced" for daily use to "High Performance" for DCS, but tbh, any 7th gen ( 7700k etc. ) or later Intel chip switches so fast there is no real difference in DCS but it may surpress one or the other hiccup. It is very important to do this for the GPU as outlined above, there you see a BIG difference in fps if you stay with the Nvidia Balanced Profile.
Despite you run ample RAM of 64GB, I would still set a Pagefile of 16 or 32GB for now. I would not disable it and also not leave it at System Managed either but would set it to a FIXED size. It may be not needed, just try it out if you encounter issues.
Keep a stack of Nvidia drivers, dont delete the installer. It happens that sometimes a new driver causes issues and you would like to go back w/o the hassle to explore Nvidia's website for older drivers.
Set MSI-Afterburner OSD to show the relevant data, GPU, VRAM, GPU Clock, CPU clock, CPU usage, your CPU has 16 threads, so 1 core is tilt when you see more than 6.25% usage, so you might wanna set it to show all cores for a few flights, then revert to show CPU total only.
Add Temp for CPU and GPU, maybe PageFile and what else you think you want to check.
Once you feel it's running great and stable, make it sleek and exclude those that you dont want to see permanently and clutter your screen.
Make sure your RAM is set to XMP profile in Bios. Do that before you overclock if you intend to do so. I would go for an ALL-CORE 5G with nor more than 1.35v under load, better less! and temps no higher than high 80ish while you do stress testing.
For stress testing, I recommend prime95 version 26.6 for a long run and newer/newest versions ONLY if you watch temps and wattage with HWinfo while you do it and dont do it for extended hours, 2h is well enough for AVX. Newer than 26.6 uses AVX codec and does pull more ampere and thus will heat up your CPU a lot more than any test without any AVX employed.
In the end, DCS is the final test, but I would only trust it if it runs an overnight prime95-26.6 default stress test followed by a 2-4h stress test with Aida64.
If you use the pre-defined Overclock settings in your Bios you will very likely have higher volts than needed and thus run a lot hotter. If it runs 5G at 1.35v flawless, lower in 0.01-0.02v steps until it crashes while you prime95 it. then go 1 or 2 up. YOu might be able to run 5G at less than 1.30v, that would be a good oc.
It can be tricky to read the right volts. What matters are Volts under FULL LOAD, not while in idle. The difference, or the DROP in volts when going from idle to 100% full tilt can be managed by a setting called LLC, Load Line Calibration. All vendors have different labeling conventions which setting is stronger, or worse for your CPU's health. Asus for example goes like this: LLC1 is weakest ( highest drop allowed ) and LLC7 is the strongest, ( almost no drop and thus A LOT HOTTER ). Once you get there, come back and we will guide you, I dont want to tilt you now ;).
Since you only see 90% GPU usage...yes, you could use some OC to see it at 99% all the time ;)
:joystick::pilotfly: Happy flying and congraz that you actually dared to do it ! :thumbup: