Triggerhappy69

Adj free turbin: ON-OFF (ON-ON will also work here) Zoom 23X-7X: ON-OFF (ON-ON will also work here) TV size: ON-OFF (ON-ON will also work here) Lock: push button OFF-(ON) ON-ON switches will give you the benfit of programming each position as a seperate input. As it is today it has no major importance, but I hope that when we get the IO software from ED we'll be able to have a menu telling us what switch is in the "wrong" position before respawning. With ON-OFF switches this is not possible. As the SVMapper software just send a Key when ever the switch state changes..? I think.. Anyway.. These are just my thoughts on the subject. Personaly I have On-OFF switches today..:cry: Route mode: ON-OFF-(springloaded ON) SRINGLOAD MOD: Buy a standard 10-15A ON-OFF-ON switch and open it. It should look something like this: Notice the rocker plate at the bottom. This is what forms a contact between the center leg and the ON legs. When you open the switch it will be symetric in shape (I forgot to take a before picture) . Now bend it so that it looks something like this: This shape will allow the switch to snap into a locked position at one side, but at the other side (the one that now has a bend) it can't reach the "snap point" and will spring back to the center position when you release it! Took me about 3 minutes to do this mod. And you don't have to wory about ruining the switch. It will tolerate some bending before it brakes.

You must have a company that does work with sheet metal near you? Look for someone that does industrial insulation or fix chimneys.. They always have sheet metal leftovers you can buy.

Actually I have been thinking the same.. Not that I need one, but Urze did come up with a brilliant idea here. And after looking at the pics I could find it does'nt seem to complicated for the avarage DIY'er to make a simular collective for himself? As far as I see It's a 20mm alumuminum rod approx 400mm long. A brake handle from a general bicycle type with a microswitch inside it. The microswitch is connected to the (is it Saitek) thingie at the end? If someone can tell me what the multo button thingie at the end is, and the product is not under patent, I can make a prototype and post a how-to?

For the "ADJ FREE TURBINE" you can use both. Alternative 1 with ON-OFF Toggle switch: Use keymapping software like SVMapper to send the keystroke "Num+ - RAlt" when switch is on, and keystroke "Num- - RAlt" when switch is off. Alternative 2 with ON-ON Toggle switch: Use DCS joystick settings to program the two different inputs. I am not sure I would go for this sollution, because it might mean that you fly around sending the "Num- - RAlt" continously..? And this might not be such a good idea.. Alternative 3 with ON-ON Toggle switch: Coonect both sides of the ON-ON switch to the BU0836X board using diodes. This would in practise mean that the ON-ON stoggle switch can be set up as two seperate momentary buttons with SVMapper. Lets say that the you connect the center of a ON-ON switch to Use keymapping software like SVMapper to send the keystroke "Num+ - RAlt" when switch is on, and keystroke "Num- - RAlt" when switch is off. If you buy the BU0836A or BU0836X controller and connect ON-ON switches, you need two more diodes for each ON-ON switch. Lets say you connect the ON-ON switch to S1 and S7 using a common ground (the center pin on the switch). You should still add diodes at each of the two other legs (i did'nt havew a pic of this right now, but I'll post it later). Download SVMapper from: http://forum.sukhoi.ru/attachment.php?attachmentid=70479&d=1173468799 Naturally you can have the dim's.. PM me your e-mail address and I'll send it right away. What format do you want (Solidworks, DXF, PDF or JPG)

It's quite simple really. You use the DirectX inputs wherever that is possible (program the button in DCS settings). . The only buttons I have programmed in SVMapper Software are the "ADJ FREE TURBINE" toggle switch, the "ROUTE MODE" function and NOT the descent (descent is programmed in DCS Settings) and last the "ADJUST SHKVAL" springloaded ON-OFF-ON Button/toggle switch. All others are programed in DCS.. Although I am a fan of Opencockpits IOCards and aditional add-on cards, I totally agree with SOKOL1 that for the HOCAS and until we get the IOSoftware for DCS you should go with Leo Bodnars cards.. And do get the "X" version.. building matrixes is such a drag you have no idea:cry:!

Bar..? Is the Bar open now..? WAIT FOR ME..! :pilotfly:

Oh yeah..! I almost forgot..!? I am still working on the drawings for the panels, glareshield and window frames.. I have started from scratch from the other end this time. Deciding the inner bulkheads that hold the panels first, and then moving to the outer skin after these are in place.. Here are some VERY WIP previews (I just mirrored left and right side so you could see the general idea): The line of sight has been raised 50mm to emulate the real life Ka-50 pilots field of view. The "bumps" on each side (the right side one will be smaller like in RL) is mainly for stabilising the sidewalls if I for some reason choose to not build a full enclosure.. Without them the whole pit would be like a cardboard box with no lid..! Real flimsy.! just to give you a rough idea of the proporsions I work from..? the grey lines are scetched from a sideways photograph of a Ka-50 sitting on the ground, and then scaled to fit. I used the pilots line of sight and he's elbow as reference points. Since these are important in my pit.. I mean, they do after all sit on ME..!? LMAO..! I should definatly go to bed now..! Cya L8R M8's

Pitbuilding Update - 12 July 2009 - Under the weather while the sun is shining? Good question..! I have a couple of projectors arround here somewhere that I want to test? Mostly since I am planning on building the window frames? And my dream is to be able to project a 160 degree field of vision on three projectors. And in this way not having to rely on trackIR or any other headtracking device.. But from what I have seen while testing projectors with Flaming Cliffs, they are not good enough.! At least not the ones I have..! So I guess my answer would be: I have no clue yet..!?:cry: I have been knocked out by some infection in a mucle attachment in the back of my head this week. So my progress has been slow.. However me and AlexRC had a very nice work session (was it 5 hours on MSN AlexRC?). Me with a bunch of question, a multimeter and the MS Sidewinder FFB2 controller card on my desk. And AlexRC with he's infinate knowlege of electronics and a good portion of patience with my asking stupid questions! Not only was it really nice to "spend some time" with a fellow simmer (and one I must say I admire quite a lot to!)! But we (when I write "we" from now on, please know that it's really AlexRC I mean. The rest is just me wanting to take credit for he's work.. Self image issues, remember..? LoL) managed to get some interesting results from our labour. The picture shows the PCB inside the MS SWFFB2 stick: The 4-wire plug at the far right side is the wires to the X and Y-Axis FFB motors. The four small 8-leg microchips are H-Bridges that recieve a PWM signal from the larger microchips situated approximately center of the PCB, but never mind them for now! The two upper H-Bridges feed the X-Axis motor, and the two low... you get ir right?! Now the H-Bridge chips have eight legs. Four of them (the four on the right hand side of the chip) are bridged, and feed one of the the motors power cables. The four on the right hand side (legs 1 through 4) recieve either a small PWM signal, or a 24,5 Volt DC current. I'll come back to the details of H-Bridges next time, but for now let's just say that they work like this: a tiny pwm signal is fed to the H-bridge Chip together with a HUGE current that the motors will require to run. And with a little magic and some logic, the tiny pwm signal is magnified to an identical looking but much bigger PWM signal that the FFB motors just love..! Our goal is to either extract the original tiny PWM signal and feed this into a MUCH BIGGER H-Bridge. So I can satisfy my need to over do everything!:joystick: Also with motors sucking power from a 6AMP power supply, and with lot's more torque. I suspect that the Trim function will feel more rigid? Naturally I am paralell to this building a new joystick gimbal in 20mm Aluminum and ballbearings all over to hold the bigger motors. Nothing to extravagant, just a beefed up version of the plastic one in MS Sidewinder FFB2.. With hall effect sencors. Whats holding me back you say? Well I am still waiting for the H-bridge cips to arrive from Germany. And then I have to start looking for new motors.. But that can wait until tomorrow..!

You are right.. I actually didn't notice this.. It has been adressed in some other post on the forum, that much I know. And I am convinced that ED will fix this in the Patch (fingers crossed), since they went to such length incorperating the FFB Trim function from the start.. ... lot's of hopes and wishes here, i know..!

These are just my own experiences from flying RC helicopters, a handfull of time flying real helicopters, and simulators. The rudder pedals serve several functions. They counteract the torque twisting motion: Whenever you change your collective or cyclic input. And as such they never have a "fixed" center.. any small change in the collective will throw the yaw axis of balance, and you need to counter with the pedals. They control your angle against sideways working forces when flying straight forwards: Since helicopters are unstable systems by nature, any force working on the chopper will get you out of balance. Wind and the weathervane effect are the two forces most needed to be balanced when you fly straight forwards. Mainly you control this by keeping the "ball" under your HSI more or less centered (if your not in a side-slip that is). Failing to do this will put you in a position where your nose is pointing at your eleven-o-clock while your flightpath is at twelve-o-clock. In short your flying towards your waypoint slightly sideways. And burning more fuel that you need to. making a constant speed turn in helicopters I have found is best done by rolling the chopper to the side your turn should be and then, while making sure you don't lose your angle of attack, forcing the chopper through the turn with your yaw pedals. Your collective, while in a turn like this, is used to maintain altitude, and if the roll angle is high enough you can apply some collective at the end of the turn to accellerate out of it. In short for a left constant speed turn: - Roll to the left. - maintain your pitch angle of attack. - force the chopper arround with your yaw pedals in a constant steady manner. - use collective so maintain altitude (and as such also speed) The chopper by nature doesn't even want to be airborne.! It's natural instinct is to plunge to the ground and dissintigrate..! Flying it is more like balancing a ball on top of another ball. If you wayt to see what direction it moves, you'll be fighting it all the time. Much easyer to give the wrong input yourselves, and then knowing what you just did you simply give the opposite input. Forcing the ball to stay in place..?

I am glad to see you've made it work..! And it seems to be a much simpler, more functional way than what I tried..! I'm naturally talking about the collective mechanism, and it' collective brake..! REALLY good work.. Keep them pics coming..!

This is the info they have given us on the upcoming patch mate: "******************************************* NEW TRIMMER IMPLEMENTATION In addition to the default trimmer implementation, in which control input is disabled momentarily to allow the player to quickly re-center his controls, a new method will be included in version 1.0.1 with a different re-centering logic. In the new method, control input is disabled until the player returns the controls to their neutral position. This allows the player to re-center his controls smoothly, minimizing unwanted control input. The new trimmer logic is optional and is selected ON by default upon installation of the patch. Selection of the trimmer implementation will be available in the GAMEPLAY menu of the options. The heading trim logic has also been redesigned. Functionality of the heading trim channel will now depend on the yaw rate when the trimmer button is released. If the yaw rate is under 3 deg/sec., the autopilot will stabilize the helicopter heading. If the yaw rate is greater than 3 deg/sec., the autopilot will stabilize the yaw rate to maintain the turn. The trimming mechanism can be adjusted in the controls configuration file: ...Scripts\Aircrafts\_Common\FMOoptions.lua The relevant variables are: HelicopterTrimmerMethod - trimmer implementation option: 1 - original, 2 - new (selected by default). The default neutral positions to which the player must return his controls to reactivate control input (in % of half of the controls' full motion!) HelicopterTrimmerZonePitch = 0.05 (5% in pitch) HelicopterTrimmerZoneRoll = 0.05 (5% in roll) HelicopterTrimmerZoneRudder = 0.1 (10% in yaw) HelicopterTrimmerTauInverse = 7.0 - time factor for the period given the player to re-center his controls when using the old trimmer implementation. IMPORTANT! All of the above LUA values are recorded for track playback. Any alterations of these values may result in incorrect playback. Also, do not use the Windows Notepad to edit LUA files, as it will corrupt them. Use a proper UTF-8 capable text/code editor." ..it seems like this would solve the problem for us? Until then just do like I do.. Fly with a flat curve, and no deadzone at all. And be gentle.. LoL

I think ED will have fixed this in the upcoming Patch mate..

Thanx mate..! That was probably the best compliment I've ever heard.. WIP on the rest of the pit.. Please tell me where I have gone wrong here? I know it's something, but cant find it

I'm still working out some minor bugs in the FFB amplifier.. But I'll post an update on that as soon as I finish..

Pitbuilding Update - 4th July 2009 - My FFB Stick setup It actually works like a charm now..! Everything is mounted on a 22mm MDF plate fixed inside the Front Pedestal. The top side holds the control PCB for the Microsoft Sidewinder 2 FFB USB stick on the right hand side. On the Left hand side you see the cable from all the switches on the Cyclic Stick and the plug that connects it to one of Leo Bodnars BU0836A cards. I placed the 220V AC powersupply underneath the plate. Because sometimes I have curious fingers if you know what I mean.. LoL :cry: The counterweight hangs from a 10mm carbon fibre tube that is glued inside the hole under the joystick gimbal with epoxy. It's made from lead and I have no idea how much it weighs? Kicking myself for forgetting to to that before I glued it in place..!:doh: To make the gimbal more precise I cut out two spacers from 1mm plastic like this: The hole approx 10mm. It really doesn't matter much as long as it's not to small.. this is where I needed the spacer. You see it as a white ring with green edges. make one for X and one for Y axis. I needed to shimmy up both of them. Here you can clearly see that there is a 1mm gap between the gimbal ain the Y axis..! And belive me when I say that it made a HUGE difference..!

CnC building update Got the last cables connected to the stepper motors now.. All that's missing is to connect them to the controller card and I'll be done..! I made these fixing plates from a sheet of aluminum. So I had the oppurtunity to remove the stepper motors if needed. Blaargh..! Cables..! But these are the last ones.! 18 cables to connect, and it should say Whiiir..! Here you can see the DC connectors with integratet fuses in them.. neat.. The Printer port Connection where the cable to the Pc is plugged in. This is just for now, untill I get around to untergrating the Biscuit Pc inside the cabinet, and the touch screen on the top.

I never managed to play online with Win7, so I had to run it from XP when playing with you.. But it's quite clear that it runs SOOOO much smoother in Win7.. I'll take a look at the event viewer ASAP and get back to you mate.. Thnx!

I did.. Thought I had answered it to, but it seems that was just in my head.. I just answered now mate..! Sorry..:doh: .. Dude..! Be carefull.. I might hold you to that promise..:megalol: Alex..? Did you get my email? I have got two of the Stepper controllers we talked about earlier and wonder if you could tell me how to connect them? The paper: http://www.allegromicro.com/en/Products/Part_Numbers/97060/97060.pdf The tripod is for shooting pictures. It's pneumatic and has a remote controlled 3-Axis camera mount on top with downfeed of the picture to a screen on the ground. It's not mine, It belongs to that crazy neighbor of mine..! _________:noexpression:_________..Sniff..

COOL..! When will you be here mate..!?

The wierdest thing..! After the MP has started and approx at the list of servers screen I loose internet.. Sometimes after I have managed to decide what server to log onto, and sometimes even before it manages to get the list of servers. And as soon as I shut down Multiplayer and I get back to the desktop, the internet comes back..! .... It's safe to say that this i bugging the h*ll out of me..! Have to the best of my knowlegde opened the right ports in Win7 and the router. And MP works just fine when I run it from the same PC in WinXP..?

Pitbuilding Update - 29th of June 2009 - Morons, Gunfights and not inhaling Belive me when I say that no one knows how lucky I am better than ME..! I think she's gorgeous, and so much fun to be arround you wouldn't belive it..! And probably a lot smarter than me to..! (not sure my self image is happy with that last one? But I am prepared to live in denial..):cry: Oh for the love of G*D..! You've started doing that in Canada to..!? It's just such an insult to millions of years of evolution! Even if I accept shooting people as a way to solve disputes (like in Texas..LoL). I can't find a single neuron saying "YES" to the drive-by as the means to reach a goal..? I mean.. if the intention is to shoot someone? Who was it that came up with the brilliant idea that it should be done from the window of a speeding car? You don't get a lot of accuracy from a car window? Is it because they need to mask the fact that they couldn't hit a barn-door at a 3 feet distance? Is it becuase they acftually hold a grudge against EVERYONE ELSE..? And hide it behind a gang related Vendetta? Are they actually aiming at all us bystanders? Why can't the idiots just admitt that they actually DO NOT want to shoot each other after all..? Because the only thing the concept of a "drive by" is telling me, is that the car is populated by a group off brain dead guys. Clearly unable to see that they're walking around with T-shirts saying "I'm with stupid" and the arrow points to THEM SELVES..! I would like to suggest that any gang that has ever been assosiated with drive-by's should not be sentenced under the "organised crime" part of each countries law..! Because it is quite clear that they do not hold the mental capasity to organise anything..! And if you fail in being a criminal what is left for you..? Even primates turn their back to them...! :megalol: Phuuh..! that felt good..! Now back to PitBuilding.. To all you who secretly dream of starting a pit-building project..? Take a look at today's pictures, and notice they JOY in my eyes as I sit ther thinking "I wish I was Flim.. I wish I was Flim and he's capable CnC router.. He's probably got hair to.."! And this really IS sweat from being full of joy..!? .. or is it my brain desperatly trying to escape..? Almost there now... I know what you're thinking about this next picture... DON'T..! And finally the bulkheads are identical, and have the right shape.. Two down.. 28 to go..! (and I complain about the drive-by guys being stupid..? I need to find a simpler way to fabricate..) Tomorrow I'll post the pics of the final version of the FFB Cyclic.. And some thoughts on making the stick more balanced, and the FFB motors stronger..! But until then I bid you all farewell, and a good night..! (Inhaling MDF dust is not good for you.. next time I'll be smart and do like a former american president did..!)

.... what was the question again..?

Canada.. 'gotta love that country..! ... well... why not..!? From what I've heard Canada is more or less like Norway, only with good food..? And you have more guns and still a fraction of the murderings of your unfortunate neighbor (unfortunate in the sence that they quite clearly don't know that we can all get along together.. if we try?) And you are the country on the planet that spend most money on outdoors activities of all..! By spending money I mean purchasing shoes, clothing, climbing equipment and stuff.. Not having to pay to use the great outdoors.. That's what I remember from the top of my head.. Am I mistaken here..? :music_whistling: Now who wouldn't want to go to Canada..? I sure would.. It sounds like the healthy personal trainer of the US, that has made a chose to keep it's personal life ... personal..? And it lives in its cozy little cabin a stones throw further north.. I like them both a lot.. It's a matter of taste. like in women..? You don't exclusivly date blondes just because you like them..? you just.. LIKE THEM..!? ALL OF THEM..! :thumbup: The weather's here has been just super this last week, so my prgression is slooow.. But I've managed to cut out the first bulkheads: And I found time to take my better half on a helicopter ride to..! man was THAT fun.. I've accepted the job as board leader of a company that does areal photography. And this is a "french benefit" that comes with the job.. .. my girlfriend working on her flight attendant routine before take-off. "in case of an emergency...." And me posing as a photographer.. (I have NO CLUE how to operate that thing..! Couldn't even switch the thing on..) And we have a winner..! Now she totally understand my love of helicopters...

Again.. I really like the way you build up your parts. It´s almost a shame they will eventually be hidden behind those nasty looking panels..?