Triggerhappy69

:music_whistling:.. He He.. That's not fair Alex..! You KNOW I use Solidworks..! BTW.. Did you get the mail I sent you regarding the H-Bridges?

Pitbuilding Update - 24 June 2009 - Some WIP pictures, and I've started on the ribs

I can send you the drawings if you like? You have much better skills than me in making things "buildable" from what i've seen.. .... YAHOOOO...! (dancing the global dance of joy) .. Seriously, I cant wayt to see what you have made from the info and cad I send you.. :thumbup: Did some more work: I need to get a life... :helpsmilie:

I am in a rut conserning this right now mate..! I wanted to use the original MSSW/FFB2 software in Windows7, but I haven't been able to do so..? And also I'm thinking that we are really not using more than a fraction of the FFB funtions (just reseting the virtual centerpoint. No shaking, no gradual loss off feeback as we "stall out" and such), so there must be a simpler, more precise to do this with a software running parallel to the simulator? I'm thinking something in the same line as that DIY Motion platform guy metioned in another thread here.? Got any thoughts you want to share on the matter mate? I'm open to all ideas...!:thumbup: As soon as I've got it working mate.. Just pop on over and we'll have a beer and a laugh.. ... that's exactly what's scaring me.. That, and the fact that I can't seem to find a controller card that can do the job.. :cry:

Pitbuilding Update - 20 june 2009 - Cockpits Drawings coming along.. I had to hurry up and get these done since they are the replacing the IO module anyway. And I need somewhere to route my cables to.. Ps. I think I have busted the FFB card for the pedals..! Aaaargh.. :doh: And does anyone have an idea how to make the Sidewinder FFB joystick work properly in Windows7..? I am so frustrated over the trim function right now, I'm about to go crazy..! It's such a BRILLIANT IDEA from ED to have this function, but almost impossible to make it work 100% right with any consistansy..? HELP..! Wel.. Back to flying again..:pilotfly: Ps. The mechanics for "the mother of all FFB pedals" was finished yesterday.. But I'm holding back the pics untill I get the trim function working in the simulator.. No point showing off something that doesn't work..? But I can tell you this much.... They're one MF beefy looking set of pedals..! I'm actually a little scared of them..:cry:

Check this little gizmo out: MD03 - 24V 20A H Bridge Motor Drive I have a hunch that this is by far the simplest way for all us bitten by the "it's never quite enough.." Bug..!? And hooking it up on a existing Stick/Wheel .... Doesn't look to difficult if you ask me.? Anyone have experience with these? If not I am pretty sure I need to check'em out..! Link to the manual: http://www.robot-electronics.co.uk/htm/md03tech.htm

Pitbuilding Update - 16 June 2008 - My new FFB Pedals Got the parts I need for making my new Force Feedback Pedals tonight.. I'll be using the footpads from the pedals I have now. The only thing new is the 90 degree brackets that will be attached to the foot-pads rear side. The ones I have now are made from wood, and would probably simply break under these potential loads.! I'll also use the electronics from the Driving Force Wheel I use now. But the PWM signal for the motor will be amplified with a PWM Servo Amplifier Brush Type from Advanced Motion Controls. The Parts: The motor/gear comes from an industrial door-opener mechanism. The beauty of this setup is (naturally) the HUGE motor. But also it has a gear ratio of 1/200, and is absolutely slop-free..! The Hall Effect sensor will be mounted under the gear mechanism, and should be free from all accidental leg-kicking and other previously experienced problems..?:music_whistling: The 25x25x120mm solid aluminum center piece will be the pivot point. Mainly because it's a llot easyer to drill holes and tap this compared to the 25mm Aluminum pipe that the pedals are attached to.. I'll be drilling and putting it all together tomorrow night maybe.? But the FFB function has to wait untill I find a powersupply that is big enough.. I know this might seem like a serious case of overkill madness? But from the testing I have done it will FEEL just right..! (And I'll NEVER use the motors full potential.. I'm really just not a big fan of leg casting and long periods of reconvalence in hospitals..:cry:) Did some flying on with Panzertard and the guys from 159th squad tonight.. And MAN is this simulator great..! And I got my first couple of kills also..! Yahoo..! The HOCAS is working 100% (although I had to set the target pipper up as DirectX buttons in the game.. It didn't seem to want to work when I mapped them to key inputs? Not that it matters really? All my buttons have one function, and no different "modes" can be chosen. So I could just as well just set them all up in the sim anyway?) .... I can't wait for tomorrow night.. Rep to ED for bringing us such joy..!:pilotfly:

How's tonight for you mate?:music_whistling:

.. keepin' it simple.. I need to finish this front ASAP so I can bin the ugly not-very-cool-looking IO Module and replace it with this smooth little thing.: However It needs to be correct so the sidewalls, windows and all panels fit inside of it to.. But now the rush is over... for a while.. I have a 100% complete working HOCAS, and I'm tearing up (virtuell) holes in the sky.. Yahoo..!:thumbup:

Pitbuilding Update - 12 June 2008 - "Idle hands...." and making the ribs I'll test your ideas as soon as I get back home guys.. First by removing both the reservoir and one-way-valve, then I got an idea from my father (also known as "my old man, the engineer"). We discussed the matter over breakfast, and he pointed out that since I am using an old HUGE syringe as reservoir I might have something that could work just by leaving a small air pocket in it (working as a small capasitator). to suck up" exesive forces used on the Collective stick in panic situations.? I would have to fix the piston in some way, but that would be quite simple.. However I'll test this just for fun, and since it requires no modification to the system other than removing the one way valve.. After that has been tried and tested I'll wait for my two new ball-valves to arrive and mount them. Simply because I know that this WILL work..! (...again.. I wish I'd gone with your advice from the start mate..:doh:) I have been away to have some sorely missed quality time with my better half the last week (.. yes, I do have one.. LoL). But pitbuilding has not been wiped from the agenda.. Inspired by the russian pitbuilder from the other thread ( http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=42199 ), and the sweet way he's buildt the frame for the outer shell. I have started the drawings for my own based on the same principle.. Also it has become clear to me that now that the mechanics are done and working, and I have started the wiring I need to think a little furter in the project..? My first version of the IO Module might as well be shaped to the outlines of the cockpit shell from the beginning? And after the IO Module comes the Right Vertical Panel (mains switches and fire suppression), and this needs a "Wall" to hang on? And thatnx to Oakdown's :thumbup: splendid work building me a 3D DXF cockpit, I can now make all the ribs and ensure that they fit the existing parts.. Rep Inbound with lot's of thanx mate..:thumbup:

Or you can send a PM to "Stonehard" on this forum.. I think he's got some Hat Switches from Thrustmaster left in stock..

Hmm..? Why do your steppers come up as disconnected..? It seems that there either be a problem with the type of stepper motors (not quite sure what though), or with the .ini file settings..? Most likely some minor setting in the .ini file we have got wrong.. Did you get the other steppers I sent you yet? When you do, try connecting them and see if the status id the same.? I'll PM you when I return home, and compare with my .ini file.. Probably back home by the end of the week..:pilotfly:

I can not belive that that last link has manage to slip away from me for so long..! GOOD FIND..! I'll be mailing this guy ASAP..!

I almost forgot .. An easy way to test the sensor is to just simply connect the LED side from your 5V supply and a then connect a multimeter in the Light sensor side (multimeter should be set on measuring resistance (Ohm). And then pass a small flag (piece of paper) through the sensor. You should get a change in the reading on the multimeter when the flag passes through the sensor..?

Hi Stelios. A couple of questions first. - Whwn connecting the stepper motors to USB Stepper card from opencockpits. Did you also connect a sensor? What kind of sensor did you use? The Opencockpits stepper card run on 5V. And needs to have a sensor (either optic or magnetic) that use 5v to.. I know a lot of printers and fax machines run on voltages higher than this. So if you took the sensor from the printer/fax it might not be usable for the Opencockpits card.? If you don't have a sensor at all the USB Stepper card will not turn the motor. Because it needs a referance to know when the stepper has done a complete 360 degree turn. It's kinda like the game when you are blindfolded and spun arround untill you lose your sense of direction. Only that without the sensor no one removes the blindfold..!? Also did you change in SIOC.INI file to read: "IOCard_disable=yes" , "IOCPclient_disable=yes" and "FSUipc_disable=yes" ? And does the USB device number check out for the USBStepper card? And last bud not least.. What Volts And Ampere should the motor run on?

My HERO..! I've started working on it allready..!

Pitbuilding update - June 4th 2009 - A picture say more than a thousand words! Guys, guys, guys! What is an accumulator in hydraulics, and how does it work? I have ordered a couple of simple valves for "fill" and "drain" like on the scetch like you posted. And I'm kicking myself for not listening to you in the first place :cry:.. But you knoiw.. "live and learn.." This is what keeps me occupied today: .. and this is just the cable for the Cycli#k stick buttons..! There's another for the Collective Stick that is twise as big. Not including the Rotor speed Governor.. By my own calculations I should be doing my first complete test either late tonight or tomorrow..! Notice on the picture with the orange wires (axis connection for collective mini-joystick a,d main collective axis) that I have pulled an extra wire from the 5V+ connector on the BU0836A card to feed the Hall effect sensors. I'm not sure this will work yet, but I read on Leo Bodnars support forum that he recomends this additional feed to make sure there is enough "juice" to feed the sensors.. If it fails misserably, I'll let you know..!

I wish we could get our hands on some good 3-View drawings that show the bulkheads like he obviously have.. I started on a drawing a while ago for the outer structure of the Blackshark. So that I eventually would be able to make a structure like this guy has. But this is as far as I got before resigning from a lack of good info: Anyone care to finish it?

Thanx Ken.. Well just jump on a plane and c'mon over then..? I think we both know it would seriously delay the progress, but THE FUN my friend.. There's never enough fun to be had..!:megalol: Ps. give the Mrs. a hug from me..

Snagging before bedtime... I think you might be onto something there mate.. :thumbup:

... BTW.. If you are using hall effect sensors in any mod you do, remeber to have the sensor rotate between TWO MAGNETS like this: and not ONE MAGNET like this: .. I have no clue why (yet), but the two magnet setup seems to give me a whole lot more precise read out..? I'll try to figure out why...

Pitbuilding update - 2 June 2009 - again with the soldering.. I have said this before, and I will say it again 'till I either die, or I'm releaved from this most tedious and boring activity.. SOLDERING S*CKS..! From picture one to picture two took forever.. Not that the soldering was anything fancy? But from this point on I have to document everything I do (as far as wiring go) for future reference.. And that takes A LOT of time..! Suddenly issues like "what type of code should I use to gat a uniform and simple way of knowing exactly where this switch is placed?" and " How can I do the same with the wiring so that Coll-AX1-3S-P14-BU01-8 actually means something to me a year from now?" There's bound to be maintanace jobs in the future for the Pit. And I have to give myself good referance points to work from.. So "Coll-AX1-3S-P14-BU01-8" would be: "Coll" = Collective stick, to describe what module it starts from. Like APU, WSCP (weapon system control panel) and so on. "AX1" = Axis number one. it's an axis and not a button (B) or a switch (SW) "3S" = It's one out of three wires related to this function. And this one carries the signal (S)! The others could be "5V" or "3V" or "-". "P14" = from the input (potmeter) it's first connection point Pin number 14 in a plug. "BU01" = The next is in controllercard BU0836A number one "8" = And it should be in input number 8 of this card. This way I hope to be able to trace every wire from start to end by their code.? (I did say "hope" didn't I?) So this wire starts at axle number one.. the Collective stick Hall Effect Sensor: And then it passes through pin 14 in the first connection plug: And from there it runs continously to the first of my (or Leo's) BU0836A controller cards: Ending up in input number eight.. I drilled holes and threaded them for 3mm hex bolts to fasten both the 37 pin connector and the switch for collective brake. .. it just looks sooo much more tidy with metal don't you agree? The Collective box it secured in place now. All wires tested (from here to connector one..) And as soon as I have painted that awfull red button white, and made a black screen covering the mini joystick from dust and my shame. I'll consider this part 100% operational..:thumbup: Even the Cyclic stick got a face lift today: Naturally it will be covered by ALU plates. But I want to make a panel for the indicator LED's from the MS SWFFB stick and the Dirving Force to. Just so that I can open a small lid and check that they both have power and don't need calibrating and such.. Shuold save me from having to exit the SIM when the FFB dissapears suddenly..? And the fans for the left rear wall have a coat of white now. Testfitting them just to admire my own work.. Agian I have to point out that only the inner white circle will show after I place the coverplate over them.. And they will get a new hub made from 2mm Acryllic painted white. So they look like "the real thing" even up close.

Collective Stick Hydraulics - The Closed loop dilemma..! I can give you pictures instead? It's a closed loop system from a double action air cylinder that pumps thin oil through a valve (collective brake) and into the other side of the cylinder. There's a header tank (made from an old syringe) that is connected trhough a one way valve. The cylinder. The valve is actuated from the rotorbrake handle. and... I'm not quite sure why I took this picture? But here it is anyway..:doh: That's hard to say to be honest.. (thinking) Hang on! It always builds up preassure so that the collective stick wants to move up if I just press the handle. Is that what you mean?

I came across this guy on a russian (I think?) forum: http://www.avsim.su/forum/imitator-kabini-l-29--t63982.html?st=180 And I was just flabbergasted by his building tecnique..! Also if you look through the pictures you will find the answer to some of the hard-to-build panels in our KA-50..!:thumbup: Like these two: NB.! Some of the pics apear to be "black".. move your mouse cursor in the top center region of the picture and you'll see a link that opens the picture in a seperate window.. I have no clue what he's writing, but I spend a lot of time going through russian forums simply because it jammed pack full of insanly good sollutions to complex problems.. And you can copy theyr methods without any special skills or tools..! Ps. this is just ONE THREAD on the forum.. if you have time, go through the other to.. I've spendt all my cofee brakes today glued to the monitor..

(... falling into deep thoughts ...) frigging brilliant idea..! You just solved a problem for me mate..!:thumbup: Did you just mix pigments into the resin? Will any type do the job?