Scott-S6

I have a CM3. The switches are definitely mediocre, in my opinion, but they are above average for consumer sim gear and I would say that it's currently the best throttle available, certainly the most versatile. I would like something better but it does not seem to exist. Yes, you can bind virtual buttons to the area of the axis behind the shut off detent and then map release of that to the start/shut off function.

I'm not sure how it can't be released under cooked if they're getting it to EA as quickly as they've suggested.

The years where it had a deeply flawed flight model were a much bigger problem. The pilot body was a flippant example of something required for a finished module and which is created by a team separate to the systems, weapons and flight model teams who do, obviously, have much more important things to work on. The models&textures team are generally finished with a module long before the other teams so priorities within the module didn't delay the viper pilot body. It does seem that rushing quickly to release and then letting the module languish in EA for 6-8 years is becoming the new normal for ED.

If it's anything like the Viper it'll be released completely under cooked and then take years to gradually fix and complete (it'll soon be 6 years and we only just got a pilot body)

An M2000D would make the money launch itself out of my wallet.

Perhaps people are getting that "belief" from the F35 official FAQ? When will it be available? Development will start in earnest in 2025, with a release goal in 2026.

I think the bigger problem is that those refinements often make tutorials or manuals incorrect and they then don't get fixed promptly (or at all) which then creates problems for people acquiring the module later.

They have warehouses in multiple countries. You were speculating about "overseas manufacturing". It's all made in Lithuania.

The other quick and dirty solution is to recalibrate the axis and just not move it all the way to the top.

Having fixed a warthog grip recently - the problem is that the tailpipe works loose. The shell is not a close fit to the tailpipe so the screws loosen and then you get this problem. The screw primarily responsible for this is not externally accessible so tightening them is a hassle. Additionally, the zinc will eventually strip if you keep retightening them. I suggest using a suitable (mild) thread locker such as pink loctite and using something to fit the tailpipe more closely to the grip. I used epoxy putty to glue the tailpipe to one side of the shell, coated the exposed side in silicon grease to keep the epoxy from sticking and then filled the other side with epoxy putty as well. I also replaced the zinc tailpipe with a steel one while I was doing this You could alternatively use layers of tape, air dry clay, acraglas, whatever. Anything that makes the shell of the grip hold onto the tailpipe will help reduce this problem.

What do you call "overseas"? Virpil is a Lithuanian company and makes their stuff there.

Mine will be here tomorrow so expect pics of the inside over the weekend (because I suffer from a compulsion to take things apart)

In your last screen shot you are looking at the binding for a digital input, not analogue. I.e. you're binding a key or button specifically to rudder left rather than binding an analogue axis to the rudder. You need to select the axis bindings section in the controls menu, the default view shows digital only.

It's not swappable switches - the hat switches are all 4-way plus push but there are swappable hats that limit or don't the functions. These are supposed to be included. I'm still waiting for mine.

Even sillier considering you don't have functionality that the F16 has when you use it on a non-moza base.