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Mearcat

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  1. Mearcat
    Not sure if you found how to fix this but I do remember that the F18 manual waypoints use a different co-ordinate type to the F16. I know from decades flying in a previous sim and also present in DCS: the F16 uses Lat/Long/decimal co-ordinates, the ones that look like N53.04.694 E47.34.886. The F18 (from memory here as not flown it in a while) uses a similar but different co-ordinates, N53.04.69 E47.34.88 Also entering the numbers with the F16 UCP I kept getting caught out by the "E0" routine where to get the East to enter you have to type "6" and "0" before entering the co-ordinates. Just check as to which co-ordinates you are using to enter you waypoints. Use "ALT y" when in the F10 map they should change through 4 different types at the top left of the screen. Hope it helps
  2. Mearcat
    Er sorry, no. Vast majority want a "close enough so I can ENJOY the sim". Not have to spend all their spare time learning 2 more career's (piloting and avionics science). I just knew that you lock the TGP to a point, lock maverick to the same point, BSGT button, repeat for second wing, Mavericks will now look at the same point as the TGP. I had prior to a few updates ago been bore-sighting on the ground using the runway lights or a vehicle at the other end of the field. Did the procedure, and they centred perfectly. Flew out to target area and rippled of 6 Rifles at 6nm in a few seconds at a BMP column, just like the Carbon715 video above. I'm not interested in this parallax phenomenon, just a means of set loadout, align seeker and go enjoy flying as many sorties as I can squeeze in my limited free time. Since updating to 2.9, I can no longer get the maverick to align to the TGP at all whether it is on the ground or in the air. BSGT button is no longer aligning the seeker to the TGP rendering the mavericks useless except for VIS mode which is compounded by other DCS issues with drawing distances meaning I get time to launch 1 missile off then have to turn and fly away for 5 minutes to turn and come back. 6 mavericks at 10 mins a piece, means 1 mission and time to turn off. As far as most people would view the bore-sighting is: TGP - "I'm looking at this point" Maverick - "hey I've turned to look at the same point" TGP - "oh good that means now, if I look at this point you will see it too?" Maverick - "oh yeh I can see that too". TGP - "good, I will tell you what to look at then you can go destroy it".
  3. Mearcat
    That's an interesting find, so it looks like there is a graphics item that is being rendered that shuts down first just before the sim exits to the menu. If that could be ID'd then a temporary work around would be to disable that graphic setting maybe. Also another thing is a lot of these FLIR videos everyone has linked shows the terrain being a lot darker and more uniform (flat) in colouration. It could be the operators gain settings but would another temporary fix be to change the terrain maps IR textures to 30-50% strength? That would reduce the background noise to make vehicles more visible until the units have had their proper fixed IR textures done. Obviously the % change would need experimenting with to get the best balance, just need enough to reduce the background so a vehicle is distinguishable. One of the posts above had a similar effect with the "noise" texture map on one of the terrains. But working on the terrain textures would be the quickest and simplest method giving the greatest impact. There are maybe 6-8 official terrain maps (guessing) compared to thousands of object files. Just an idea.
  4. Mearcat
    Yep as Silverdevil said, its an ongoing issue since DCS changed the IR texture system. F16C is (my opinion) the hardest hit as even with the TV it is still very difficult to pick out targets at a suitable distance for an attack run with the cockpit displays. I have had to turn on full labels at a stupid distance just so I can go "Eh?, the vehicles are there?, in that open field that I spent 10 minutes scanning with the TGP?" by then, shot down by a manpad because I was too busy fixated on my little screen looking for them. I won't even start with the mavericks IR. That's covered in another bunch of threads, though linked to the same issues.
  5. Mearcat
    Nope still not fixed for everyone. I still cannot see targets until within 15miles, static/armour/vehicles/planes, and I have been running maxed settings with extreme distance since the upgrade to a 5600X and 3080 running triple screens at 5760 x 1080p. I will be trying this change out later tonight to see if I can finally see a target at a suitable distance to line up a run.
  6. Mearcat
    that should print out in the correct colours but it depends on your printer pen settings. Joystick Text Decals A.dwg
  7. Mearcat
    I'm a bit slow on the ball because I'm enjoying flying but ..... Nice! I finally have the correct Text to use on future referbs. I had to use my model building skills with water slide decals for my joystick referb. Mine were produced through CAD and printed on white water slide transfer paper for laser printers. Its also been coated in a fuel/sweat proof clear coat so none of the paint will ever bubble and peal off again:
  8. Mearcat
    Sorry for being slow at replies here, I don't visit often. I can try and get a PDF print done, but not sure on how detailed it would be as I printed straight from AutoCAD with the highest (600dpi) setting it would do. I used the works AutoCAD to produce the drawings so they are saved (and were printed from) as .dwg files. You should be able to use a .dwg viewer and printer program to view the files, but not sure as to one readily available to alter the drawing. ACAD is quite expensive. On the clear backed decals, as I mentioned with clear decal paper, any white areas in the drawing will actually be empty on the clear decal paper, so the Caps you have will either have to be white or if transparent, find a was to opaque them. I don't know how light blocking the white decals are as my MFD buttons aren't illuminated.
  9. Mearcat
    Sure thing, They were labels that I made in CAD and printed on white backed decal paper at the maximum dpi and quality settings, along with a few others for some other controller projects. Decal Paper (image is not very sharp but the print file was). There are 2 types of water slide transfer paper, clear and white. Transparent or clear paper is used when the medium underneath the decal is to be shown, like an RAF roundel on a Camo painted wing. but standard printers don't print white ink (except for some very expensive ones) so any image that has white will print clear. White backed transfer paper avoids this with the transfer film being coloured white. So where the printer leaves a clear spot, when the decal is applied it shows as white. Problem with this is any colour underneath is obscured. Let me know if you need any other info.
  10. Mearcat
    Sorry for slow response but needed to pull the drawings out of mothball. Top view of sensor opening. Red lines are the main pedal frame, white is the sensor mount and grey is the existing pot. Included are a few dimensions of the opening. There is 16x24x25mm (WxLxD from top view) of space for the sensor to be mounted in. Front view: 3D fit of components: I think that the max angle should be set to 180 degrees, that would give the best chance to get these working with the pedals driver. All I'd need is the threaded collar diameter and the axle shaft diameter of your sensor housing, to match up the mount and drive gear.
  11. Mearcat
    Ah ok, the current pots have a 12bit resolution over 240-270 degrees and your saying that your MR sensors have a tighter resolution being 12 bit over 180 degrees? The current pot travel is less than 90 degrees (0-70ish degrees) for the pedal drivers 0-100% on each pedal. But the driver software also allows for manual calibration of any position on the sensor (aka from 50-120 degrees). This is how I have in the past increased the longevity of the pots by moving the contacts past the worn part of the carbon tracks. But they wear out just as quick. So hopefully, your contactless ones may work unless I am missing something.
  12. Mearcat
    Hi rel4y, Question about these sensors: can these act as a replacement for a 10K potentiometer other than the TM kit? I have a rather unique idea for applying them to another piece of my rig that desperately needs contactless sensors. I do a lot of sim racing and I purchased a set of supposedly good quality pedals but the pots that are on the clutch and throttle constantly fail (begin spiking) and I have attempted to replace them with a drop in Hall sensor but to no avail. The pedals also double as rudder pedals through axis combining. The pots on these pedals are near identical to the TM Cougar Anttena pot. I know that each pot has a 3.54V feed, a 12bit resolution (if thats helpful), fixed rotation of 340 degrees with physical stop and the standard wiring layout. The pedals only use 1/4 turn of the sensor. The problem is finding a replacement that can fit in the restricted space where the sensors are mounted. There is some hardware that would be needed but I have already created the 3D designs for these and they could be easily adapted to accommodate your sensors, especially the latest one that has a threaded collar. Let me know as this could become a life saver for ppl that have these pedals (they are a very well named brand of Sim Racing kit) and are sick of spending 10 Euro per sensor every few months (I do a LOT of racing/flying).
  13. Mearcat
    Thats great, don't need the gimbals just the Hat post, DMS hat and F16 nut. Let me know through PM how much and how to pay.
  14. Mearcat
    Hi Debolestis, Was wondering if you were able to supply a few Cougar parts as shapeways has gone a bit expensive since I had the Alps housing from your store (which works great in the formula rim). You have on your SW page replacement TM HAT housings that have the switch post/shaft. Are you able to just supply the shaft/post part? My DMS one finally broke after 15 years and I need to replace just the post. The other parts I would like to purchase are the DMS Castle HAT and the F16 style locking nut.
  15. Mearcat
    Hello guys, bit of an old thread but I wanted to share my knowledge so you don't have to go through the same pitfalls. I fully refurbished my cougar stick around the time of the OP and I came across a few things that are relevant: The whole Hotas, including bases, is advertised as made from metal and they are, but from a cast Zamak metal. If you decide like me to fully strip away the original coating then in order to get a suitable primer coat down use a self-etching primer. Some of the metals used in Zamak don't react to well to acids/alkalais so another layer of an anti-corrosion primer would be a good idea. For the base colour you have 2 choices: use a basic 1K spray can and overcoat with a 2k or use a 2k base and a 2k overcoat. Why 2k? Your sweat is corrosive. Standard rattle cans (department stores and even plastidip) are 1K paints including clearcoats. They bubble and peel after prolonged exposure to sweaty palms, so unless you are ok always wearing gloves (which will make your hands rot from sweat) a 2K paint or clearcoat are a must. I am uk based so used these guys: www.jawel.co.uk They will create any paint or clearcoat based on BS/RAL/PANTONE colour charts in a 2-part acrylic spray can. You could if you wanted to paint it candy flip pink but that would just be wrong for a joystick. At some point I'll write up the whole thing. Hope this is helpful. Here are a few pics of the grip referb: Sanded, smoothed and degreased Grey parts, Halfords grey anti-rust primer (Trim/CMS Hats and S2/S3) I found was a very good match to the original TM grey: Some Ferrari red was left over from referbing a model: Anti-Corrosion coating needs to be all over to work properly. the anti-corrosion is light grey red primer was so I don't sand through: Gloss Black: Sanded the surface smooth ready for clearcoat. A full strip meant loosing the labels. Colour Ink jet waterslide transfer replacements. Colour matching is ok but not perfect so trimmed as much of the black of as possible: Satin finish 2K clearcoat. Looks rough but it is smooth to the touch: 1 yr on no chips or wear patches with hundreds of hours use, pride of place at my side:
  16. Mearcat
    The link in the OP is down "site under construction" apparently. Any news on whether that run of NXTs are coming? I've been waiting to get my hands on a set.
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