LynxDK

Those monitors are awesome, but if your using 2 of those, your gonna end up with the frames right where you aim.

A new Update here from Denmark. Airspeed Indicator Bezel: With optional Glass: And Vertical Velocity Indicator: And also with Optional Glass: The VVI are missing the "adjust" screw in lower left corner, it will be there, but the ones i ordered wasnt the ones i recieved :) Both instrument will like all my bezels, be with a 3d printed inner tube, that goes to the monitors surface. The RWR and the Altimeter are in the Works, but they have Rotary's, and there isnt much Space, so it takes a Little more time. these will however soon be available.

That looks right. You should be able to see them Work in Mach3 without any problems. Im afraid thats the only thing i know about those controllers... also know that some of them can have troubles with Stepping out of place when you fx cut circles for a long time, due to interference on the cables, but you might solve the problems by reducing the acceleration of X and Y axis. Some changes the Power supply for the spindle to an external one, to get rid of it But i hope you wont have those problems :)

MetalNwood I problaly have less agressive tape i guess :) But when i use small pieces of tape positioned around the piece, i sometime cant get it off too :) But if i cover the Whole bottom of the piece with tape i have no problem getting it off... Sound funny, but thats the truth... So i cover all of it allways, and no problems here... but Again.. might be the tape :)

Here s a link to a guy to did the homing switches, and there is Pictures of the Motherboard too. http://www.cnczone.com/forums/chinese-machines/178465-anyone-added-switches-yoocnc-3040t-control-box.html

Yea sry, i meant home switches. one for each axis. You wont really damage the machine by running over the edge, its made to jump when it does, but dont do it too much tho :) it definately dosnt sound good when it happens. Its all part of the learning process, and everyone does that until they realize which side of the X and Y you need to place the drawing :) Just to be clear, even tho you put homing switches in for X and Y, its not the 100% same place evey time you home it, and thats because its a cheap china model. but you can use it as a starting point every time, which saves you time. I wont recommend using a homing switch for the Z axis, but there is an easy way to home that, when you have placed your object on the table and have homed the X and Y, you move the cutting bit just over the surface you wanna cut, without touching. then you place a piece of thin paper between that and the bit, and then you move the Z axis Down by 0,1mm at a time. while you do this, you move the paper back an fourth, and at the time you feel the bit touch the paper, you stop and press Z Home. And now your set for cutting :) Hope this was helpfull. Good luck :)

Your idea with the Dobbelt Sided tape is definately the way to go, it sounds like a pain in the ass, but it really isnt. There may be some leftovers from the tape on the panel you cut, because u cut through it, but thats easily cleaned up with natural spirits. I would also recommend as metalnwood suggested, to Mount a plate of some sort to the machine, and then lvl it of with the cnc. so no matter what you place on top of that, its level to the cutter. Keep in mind that if you want to use dobbelt sided tape, MFD table surface is NOT a good idea, since it can get Loose on longer cuts. Thats because its allways kinda dusty, no matter what you do. I will recommend you order a piece of 8-10mm Acrylic, sized to the machines table, and fasten that, and then level it off. Dobbel sided tape Works great on Acrylic. And dont be afraid to use too much tape... its not that hard to get off Again... accually, the less tape you use, i find it harder to get off the machine Again. depending on the objects size of course. Also the machine you bought, is accually ready for limit switches. Its just not mounted. So you can Mount limit switches, and connect them to the motherboard inside. Its pretty easy, because they are called limit on the PCB. Just a future upgrade maybe :) Hope this helps

Your Concept is not bad, i have been thinking of something simular, just with a real toggle switch in stead. But you have a Little problem with your setup, your switch are missing the "click" effect, and are not able to be held in the position where the microswitch are pressed in. You need somekind of tilt system with a spring, like the original Toggle Switches have. And when you have that in place, the Solenoid are going to have some problem pulling it, unless its a big one, and also given that you have the same kinda tention like a real toggle switch, you could of course losen that a bit. Maybe the Pushing option would be better, since they have more power at the start. As for the solenoid to overheat... it shouldnt be on all the time... if its on, you cant manually move the switch... so it needs a signal to pull the lever into position the second it need to be turned off, and then the power should be cut. then it wont be hot, and you can manually push the switches into position Again... I might be wrong tho... but at least thats the way im thinking it :) I like your idea, you might be on to something, keep up the good Work :)

That looks really good, absolutely love it. I plan on offering something like that, complete, sometime when im done with the A-10C. But for now, If people are interested, i can offer 3D printning service, if they provide the STL files, because i have not even looked into the details of the huey collective yet. Is yours the original dimensions? Keep up the good work.

LX01: DZUS Replica. 3D printed dzus replica, printed in black. Sold with black M4 screw, 20mm long. The printed dzus have small variations in the surface, which can look like weathering. Though there are differences in appearing, they all share the same dimensions. The screws are made in black from the factory, but the dzus can be printed in another color if wanted. You can buy them from my webshop, here: http://lynx.dk/product/dzus-replica/

Thank you guys. If anyone is interested in The glare shield, i Will post prices and more pictures When i get home again. But like everything else, I plan on selling it in pieces so people can buy some of it, or everything. The whole thing is build up by several pieces, so it can ship easy, and also not that hard to put together. And when it's assembled, it's a very sturdy construction. It can be screwed onto the MIP with screws from behind, or also with 6 pieces of M8 Threaded rods, for further stiffness. It's printed in 0,2mm for good quality, and to keep costs down, but the thickness of the top glareshield panel houses are 3mm thick. What you see in the pictures, are 8 pieces, without the handles. There's a Left base, left panel housing ontop of that. Right base with right panel house on top of that, and a center piece. Between them we have 3 boxes boltet underneath it all, where the handle switch mechanism is. Those right and left panel houses can be bought alone, to screw in a existing cockpit, and the panel to fit inside those will be available to buy also. If people wanna make their own panel, I will provide the drawing for that. As to give you guys a price idea, those 2 houses without panels, will be very close to 250 DDK. For both. Without PayPal fees. The rest is hard to price, since it's still a prototype, and there is some things I need to change, to make it look better, and to make it cheaper for you guys. The handles with Switch mechanism will also be available at a later point, but the backlighting in the handles are not fully done, but prices will follow when I get home again. As the panel houses, the pull handles can be used both with my glareshield, or as stand alone on an existing cockpit.

Before i leave for my 10 Day vacation tomorrow, i thought i would show you my Progress on my Glareshield Prototype. It still needs some small adjustments, but its not much. Each Fire Pull Handles have a box screwed under the glareshield, with an installed microswitch. The seams on the top are to be hidden under the UFC Mounting plate, this one i Printed Fast, but it will be Aluminum for the end product. And yes, i forgot the Screw holes for the plate on the Glareshield :doh: Didnt have time to do the panels yet, but here a Picture of the the left panel directly from the cnc, with a fast setup with the switch guard.

Finally recieved the screws for DZUS. They are 20mm M4 Screws, and is allready painted Black. So now i can offer these to whoever might be interested. The DZUS Replica is 3D printed, therefore there can and will be small variations, which can when mounted look like weathering. The Price will be 3,5 DKK pr. Complete DZUS with screw. Pictures below: Sry about the reflecting light.

Looking very cool :) Nice job.

I will have these for sale very soon, with longer Screws of course. They are normal M4 Screws. And yes, they are 3D printed, and i posted Pictures from 2 diffrent backgrounds, since it makes them look diffrent. There can of course be tiny variations, but they all have the same Dimensions, and top look. and, they are all Black, also the screws.

your post number #16... i cant see the 3 Pictures, maybe its just me?

Dosnt seem like the Pictures are working.

Looking really awesome with that Flight suit, helmet and everything :) Warhog, if you allready go all in like that, the step to make a canopy and a controlled temperature enviroment isnt that bad is it? :P

A Little quick post. Yellow stripes could be stickers. Dont have the Machinery to do stickers yet. The pulling mechanism with switches are in Development. And of course they can be backlit.

Very nice :)

Good question. The drawing is an old drawing i made, of a Lynx cub. My drawing might not look like a lynx, but i liked the look of it, and used it even tho it looked like the hedgehog from sony :P The name Lynx however, is accually a funny story. I didnt chose the name because of the Animal or the Helicopter, its from my younger years, where my mon and dad had a summer residence, where there was this old toilet with a cistern on the wall. And on that handle where engraved Phoenix-Lynx. I needed a web name at the time, and Lynx became mine, and have used it ever since. Now the Cistern has been replaced, and i now have that handle hanging on my wall next to me, and im using it to hang my headphones from it. True story, and no, it dosnt have anything to do with Planes or anything, but im pretty sure im not the only one outhere who has chosen their name from something similar. :)

A Little Update for you Guys who are wondering what im doing. Things are moving slow these days, due to shifting Work hours and Holidays. It will continue like that for a Little while still, but there will soon happen more. For all of your Guys who are interested in the UFC, its one of the most complex instruments for the A-10C, but when we have it all done and all the problems have been sorted out, we also have the solution for the UFC, MFCD Bezels, and all of the other panels which have backlit pushbuttons, like countermeasure Panel. Im also very close to present bezels like the allready shown HSI. Here we are talking about the ADI, RWR, VVI, Airspeed Indicator and Altimeter. I would like to say that i have the rest of the MIP instrument Bezels and Panels worked out, but the truth is that i dont have the correct dimensions for most of it, and i would like to stay as close to the real dimensions as possible, so that if you get real instruments / panels, they will fit in the cockpit. Im hoping to be able to obtain this information in the near future, but well see how that goes. As you problaly allready have noticed, im trying to complete the MIP Bezels and Panels before heading on to the side panels. Again, if you have questions, dont hesitate to write.

Nicely Done :thumbup: Looking really good.

Here they are all lit up:

Damn nice Boltz :)