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debolestis

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Everything posted by debolestis

  1. That is my plan, all have "Z" press. They will fit, but are very small. I bought them on eBay. Link There is similar model that will also fit but is a little bigger Link
  2. I continued work on toggle switches but I think it was a bad idea. It just makes things too complicated, too many wires everywhere, and there is limited space inside. I'll leave it for now and decide later. Also 5way switches arrived, but they are so tiny, I have no idea what to do with them. I think these are same switches that Leo Bodnar uses on this: I'll probably do something similar, Any Ideas?
  3. I started to make new PCBs for switches. I changed toggle switches they are now on-ff-on
  4. Hello again. I didn't work on this lately, it was a flu season and I was very busy. I was waiting for parts to arrive. I am still waiting for 5way switches. I started to work on sensors. It works but it's not the best solution, it still needs some tweaking. I tried to find sliding hall sensors and I found only THIS, but I don't know where to buy them. I also found a company here in Croatia that makes springs. Original spring wire is 3mm thick and very stiff, and I ordered 1,5mm springs, but those are to weak. When I put together 2 or 3 springs that feels better. This also need more tweaking.
  5. I ordered new sensors, SS495A, basically same as SS495A1, just a little less sensitive, but half the price. It is such a shame that this joystick isn't produced any more, so simple design. Maybe we should start open source project to revive it. Maybe 3D printed or CNC metal parts, new PCB design etc. Just an a idea, what do you think? I can use Sketchup and Blender, so I started to work on gimbal. I tried to copy it as precise as possible, maybe it will be useful one day.
  6. Can you tell me more about "hall effet 3D not gimbal or mod", and many pictures please. Thank you!
  7. It is not said which sensor to use. I have A1302, is it OK?
  8. I also thought same thing, I don't know if it's going to fit, we'll see.
  9. I continued work on switches. It is a mess inside, but I'll make proper PCBs in future, this i just for testing. I also started to convert pots to hall sensors. I didn't make metal parts yet.
  10. I saw this solution and it is great but honestly I don't understang how original electronics work. Leo Bodnar's boards I understand perfectly and I want to be able to mod throttle and stick, not just restore it.
  11. Thank you for reply. I understand, but what I want to know: is there a 3 way switch that has integrated momentary toggle and push switch? All in one solution.
  12. I didn't have much time last two days but I made a few changes. Talon is again dissasembled. I add 4 toggle switches, but I could only buy on-on, so I ordered on-off-on toggles on line, but I can work with what I have for now. Also, only problem that I have with this stick is a stiff spring, it takes to much force to move the stick. It takes about 4kg of force to flatten it, wire is 3mm tick. I'll ask arround and try to make a few new springs. Did anybody try this? And one more thing. The SFS trottle that I have has broken pinky switch. If anybody has a spare one and is willing to sell it to me, please send me a message. Thank you!
  13. Now I have a few questions. 1 - Castle Switch 2 - Trim Switch 3 - Auto Acquisition Switch 4 - Paddle Switch 5 - Nose wheel Steering Button 6 - Gun Trigger 7 - Weapon Release Button Real castle (1) and trim (2) switch can be pressed down as well. I cannot do it on original PCB. I found these switches on eBay: Are these any good? Did anybody try them? Auto acquisition switch (3) can be tipped forward and aft, at the moment it only can be pressed down. Is there such a 3 way switch? I haven't found it on eBay. I could maybe use an encoder with integrated push button. Gun Trigger is two stage, any ideas how to mod it?
  14. My idea was to use BU0836A-NC 12-Bit Joystick Controller with no connectors. It is cheaper and I wanted it without USB connector, I wanted to use pins. Also my idea was to use dupont connectors when possible, because joystick would be disassembled many times before finished. It makes things easier. Then I rewired pcb in stick, diodes everywhere, painful process. I used 3 bottom rows in matrix, total of 9 wires. There is possibility to add 5 more switches in future if necessary. Then I put everything together again. 4 holes were drilled, I want to use 4 toggle (on-off-on) switches that will be paired with 4 dual color LEDs. I'll reuse bottom PCB, I need it for original switches.
  15. Hello from Croatia! This is my first post on this forum. Recently I bought Talon stick and SFS throttle on eBay and I want to restore and mod them. I don't know if anybody is still using this HOTAS, but it is my favorite. I saw it 20 years ago in a PC magazine and I had wanted it since then. I could buy warthog but I just don't want to. Anyway, my plan is to post everything that I do with this HOTAS here on forum. If you have any suggestions, please don't hesitate to tell. Thank you! :joystick:
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