debolestis

This is great, but where to buy them, it says 1,000 pieces is minimum order. I just saw this today, and saw schematics. According to this schematic: it looks like THIS could also work: Or THIS: It needs only a RESISTOR NETWORK on outputs: Resistor networks can be seen here: This is from my FLCS. I was also been doing some work on Pro Micro shield. It can be done without it but it will make thing easier. I'll try to find some PCB service on eBay and make something that looks professional. This is just an example of single sided design: But I'll probably go with double sided PCB. I am still learning Eagle CAD, I'll probably need some help. I'll also try to make PCB for shift registers.

Sorry I thought you have BU0836A. I don't know if this will work but try. You forget diodes. Connect Column 1 to B1 (for example on you board), row 1 to ground next to B1. Connect Column 2 to B2 on board row 2 to ground next to B2. Connect Column 1 to B3 also. Row 2 to ground next to B3. I have never worked with this board, probably it is not necessary to connect all the grounds to board, but just in case... If all grounds are real grounds this probably won't work. Probably could have double press. Please test and let us know.

Like this

Warthog stick fits on cougar. All buttons work normaly. A friend of mine has both.

I didn't try yet. Mega_mozg said it is possible with some "magic"?

I bought one of Gardena's hose addons. It fits perfectly on Combatstick, I didn't use glue, it is great fit. This will be the base for replaceable grips. I need to see what can I use to attach them to the base. I have few ideas, we'll see. Also I have to trace shift registers PCB from FLCS.

Can somebody tell me what is thread size on this: Metric or imperial?

Great work! Where did you buy DIN connectors?

What is the problem?

I am OK with matrix, I can do it myself, but I wanted shift registers because it is only 5 wires for all grips. I still didn't find schematics for shift registers. I'll try to trace PCB myself.

on eBay now: Thrust Master F-16 Flight Simulator Limited Edition Only 5000 made. This is first time that I see it on eBay.

Pots are CH and are OK, problem is in gears. Gimbal in just not smooth as CH. Any ideas for DIY grip mounts?

FLCS works OK with MMjoy2. Shift registers work fine, yellow wire SPI-MISO must go to B3 MOSI for newer versions of firmware. Gimbal mechanism is similar to CH gimbal but it is not as smooth. FLCS has gears between gimbal and pots and I think that it is a problem. I have new idea now. I would like to make replaceable grips on CH gimbal that i upgraded with hall sensors, like Cougar, Warthog or Mamba. For that I need more shift register PCBs. I couldn't find any schematics. For now only way is to find another FLCS or F22. Does anybody can has any shift register PCBs from old joysticks? We can trade I have Leo Bodnar's board that I don't use. I also have Cobra M5 that I don't use. Are there any examples of DIY removable grips?

It works!!! This is one of setups that I tried There is a problem. Shift registers only work on version v20150626. On all other I have this problem: MMjoy2 sees all buttons as pressed. Bug probably. Also I cannot figure out how shift function works. It works in a way, but also original button is pressed. Shift+button_1=button_1 and shifted button.

I think this is it: SPI-CS goes to D3. This is how it should be set-up in mmjoy2: This is for Cobra M5, but it will probably be something simillar. I'll try this in next few day and post results.

Thank your for the information Sokol1! I bought one Pro Micro and installed MMjoy2 on it and it all works. I have problem wit the following: I understand where to connect VCC, GND and SPI-MISO. SCLK is probably SPI-SCK? Where with SPI-CS? To MOSI? Is there any schematics of Thrustmaster's shift registers? I was thinking maybe to make my own. It looks to me as more elegant solution to wiring joysticks. I am OK with button matrix, but there are wires and diodes everywhere, shift registers look cleaner. This way FLCS joystick can be rewired in 10 minutes to USB. Is it possible to use button matrix together with shift registers in MMjoy2? Is it possible to connect multiple shift registers in some way on MMjoy2? So many questions but MMjoy2 looks like a great solution with much better capabilities than Leo Bodnar's board.

I haven't work on this much lately, I've been very busy and it is too hot here. I am almost finished with f15 joystick. It is now combination of 3 different joysticks. Suncom, Combatstick and X-fighter. I added metal base of X-fighter joystick. Only thing I didn't like on CH joystick is that it is too light. Now it is great it is very stable. I added original hats, just a little dremel work. I have a few other mods in mind, I'd like to add two stage trigger and replace switches with something of better quality. I also found this: It is Thrustmaster FLCS an TQS. I'll make a new thread when I start to mod this. I have looked everywhere for this and in the end I found it here in Croatia for 20$.

No problem. Just let me know when you need it.

Hi. I have found a Company here in Croatia that produce springs. And you can order just one. Price depends on dimensions but probably from 5 to 10 Euros. I can order this for you. Send me PM if you are interested.

Yes I tested it. I had only one minor problem with this: This wasn't stable so I use double sided adhesive tape. Any glue would also work. In first two images I conected only one sensor to a controller. It goes from 4% to 96%. Same as in data sheet. This is without gimbal. This is assembled gimbal. Center. Top left corner. Gimbal doesn't use +/-30 degrees, but more like +/-25 degrees of movement. There is no calibration here, all values are default.

Now I'll show what I did. I'll explain for only half of gimbal but precedure is same for both axes. First I took this out. Then I disassembled it. Than I took plastic part that was on the CH pot. I have to widen the hole and for that I used step drill, only used my hands with drill. First I widen hole to 10mm and then, only up to a half, to 12mm. This is the result. I did this so that this ring marked with arrow can fit inside. Also when I did this I noticed that notch in red square also fits into rectangular holes in plastic piece. The notch prevents body of sensor from rotating. This must be a good fit otherwise trimmers will not work. I noticed some movement here, I thing it would be a good idea to glue it to sensor. I'll see. Then I assembled the trimmer Since CH pot is D-shaft I also had to modify this part also, it would have been easier if I had 1/4 inch drill, I removed some plastic and made round hole here Then I assembled this half of gimbal Than I put this back into joystick. Since the sensor is similar to CH pot everything fit perfectly, I didn't have to modify anything here. I did everything the same for other half of the gimbal. In the end I had to mechanically calibrate each axis. I used flat screwdriver in one hand while holding body of sensor with another until I found center. And that is it. Actual travel of joystick gimbal is less than +/- 30 degrees for each axis maybe +/-25 more or less. But trimmers work, There is version of this sensor that has 50 degrees of travel, maybe it is better fit for this joystick, I don't know somebody should test that as well. Also this is a good alternative for people who would like to change pots on Ch joystick, I hear that they are very hard to find lately. Please notice that I did this on gameport CH Combatstick. I don't know how this will fit in other CH joysticks.

I ordered this on eBay: It is TT Electronics/BI Technologies hall Sensor. Model is 6120, and its code is 6127V1A60L.5. V1 means that output voltage will be from 4% to 96% of VCC. A60 means that it covers that in 60 degrees. I couldn't find V0 or one with D-shaft. But shaft is same diameter as CH pot, 1/4 of inch. Also dimension of sensor is similar to CH pot. I wanted to have trimmer function of CH joystick so this looked like good solution. It is more expensive but this model is "normally priced", 15$. Most other hall sensors like this are over 50$.

...and then I washed all Ch parts and made them new again...

Since I decided not to mod original Suncom gimbal then I bought gameport Ch Combatstick on eBay. It is in great condition, quality is much better from all other plastic joystick that I saw. I also like trimmers for both axes and there is a throttle as well. I cut Suncom's shat with dremel, and widen hole with step drill. An it fits almost perfectly. There are two small holes on CH shaft and then I drilled two holes on Suncom's shaft and used two screws to secure them together. I didn't used glue so I can change grips in future if I want to. I also decided to use CH directional switches. I don't like the way it is done in Suncom joystick. Ch switches seem to be much better. And then I used epoxy to glue them. Now I need to figure out how to attach Suncom's knobs to the switches. Left hole should be smaller, I made mistake and made it bigger, but it will be fine. In pictures bellow the switches are not jet glued. This mod also made shaft longer and now there is a place for a paddle switch. What can I use for that, bicycle hand brake maybe? Ideas?

I know it is not forum for this but do you have any plans for Star Citizen? People are spending insane amounts of money on that game.