debolestis

Remove these two screws Than these four screws You have to pull out two knobs and then you can remove PCB.

Look here.

Your hotas has potentiometers, and in your model they are crap. I recommend to mod them to hall sensors.

I had top gun afterburner ii. It looks simillar. Remove bottom plate and uscrew the spring adjustment knob, remove the spring and that is it. 5 minutes.

I've been busy lately, I worked only a little. I now have new springs for talon and raptor. New spring is on the left, on the right is original. The new one is 2,5 mm tick and has few more turns now there is 7, but 6 would be perfect. I now nothing about spring in theory or practice, so I had to guesstimate. Difference in thickness is only 0,5 mm but it makes a huge difference, I cannot say for sure but it seems to me that now it takes maybe half of force to move stick around. I also soldered two new Leo Bodnar's PCBs. And I started with this PCB for raptor. Also found this PAGE, There is polished Suncom stick. What would be best approach to do that, buffing, sandpaper or some liquid, I have experience with metal, but I've never worked with plastics.

Can you post a few images of FLCS insides? Ihave X fighter and I changed the spring. Now is much lighter.

I don't know about your controller, on my board I had to connect 3 pins. You'll see some numbers on the pots. You have to connect 1,2 and 3. Ground and +5v are probably 1 and 3, just take multimeter and if there is always same readout of resistance (between for example 1 and 3) when you move slider, than wire ground and +5V to those pins. The third one you can find also with multimeter, connect (probably 1 or 3 and 2) and if you measure different resistance when you move slider that that's it. That is output. Did you fix the switch?

In the meantime, I am modding now a Raptor for a friend. This one was not in great shape, but PCB is good, switches seems to be OK. There was rust and old grease so I put everything in bucket of water and dish soap. Now it is awesome again. Water and soap do wonders. Where can I find screws that are on this grip, they doesn't seem to be metric. What is American "designation"?

Arrows show what I bent. Cooper brushes were down, just raise them a little. I also bent sprigs because they were scratching the plastics. I added solder on larger contact plate, it was damaged i the middle.

No need to replace, I had same problem. There are a few parts i the that switch, PCB, 2 springs, piece with brushes, and button. You have to bend contacts (little brushes) and to add some solder on contacts on PCB. For me it worked perfectly. I can post photos if you need them.

Circuit board came with throttle. First I had plan to change bigger switch with this xbox joystick but it was to complicated, there is also limited space inside, original board has support inside throttle, there are also screws that hold it in place. I didn't want to use glue or to cut to much so I decided to leave it as it was. Those 5way switches that I have I'll use in the stick.

This wil work

I removed everything and resoldered with new diodes. I used eLo Bodnar's boar and you have to properly orient diodes, if they are wrong way it won't work. Image from gerryk.com is exactly what I did.

Hi, I rewired 4x4 matrix for the right throttle, and 3x2 for the left. I think that in original wiring has different matrix. I am not familiar with Arduino Pro Micro & MMJoy.

Are there any hall sensor mods for this throttle?

Yes, you are probably right, I am sometimes complicating things that should be simple. I'll probably do it like you say. But if anybody wants to know more this is what should be done for LED throttle mod: Dot/Bar Display Driver Hookup Guide

New piece arrived, it is stainless steel, it was burned and ugly so I decided to polish it. It is such a great material to work with. Throttle now feels so much smoother, friction adjusting lever is better than before, range of friction is better, and it looks great. I connected everything, pots are good, no spiking, I didn't connect red switches and LEDs on the base, I'll do that later but they are on bad place it is difficult to reach them. I also have an idea of connecting 6 LEDs on on right side to throttle pot so that they turn on as I move the throttle forward. It is probably possible but I have no idea how to do it. I need advice on it or a schematics, please help.

I just got new joystick. It is Thrustmaster X-Fighter, I bought it on eBay for 1,5 Euros. It looks like it was used very little. The base is much bigger, mechanism is simple it uses CTS pots, there is not even circuit board inside. It was very, very stiff and then I disassembled it and removed conical spring. It still has springs for each axes, now it is completely different stick. Off course I assembled it in wrong way. Now I just have to figure out how to put Suncom grip on X-Fighter base. This is the spring, it is a lot stronger then original Suncom spring.

This is a pinkie switch that was broken. Can somebody send me a few photos and measures of it. I'll 3D print it. Thank you!

This part is not in throttle at the moment. I felt that throttle is "yawing" a little and I decided to make this part in stainless steel. It will be made in next few days.

I was working on SFS throttle. It is simple job at this point, just wiring diodes in matrix. I had some cable sleeve, now everything looks clean. I also made this board, it makes things more simple, it is easier to disassemble everything. This way it is not necessary to solder all the wires together. It is simple parallel connection of 6x6 pins. I don't know why Leo Bodnar doesn't make something like this.

Bauer base kit is spectacular, but I'd rather build something myself.

I don't know, maybe in future I'll think of something better, or maybe there will be slide hall sensors on the market.

Resolution is 12 bit, 4096, +/- 2048.

I assembled talon stick and tested it, and I am not happy with the results. Maybe I did something wrong, I don't know but hall sensor mod is not good form me. I get only +-600 in resolution and there is also large dead zone. It is mechanical problem with gimbal. But I like the grip very much, so I decided to put it on base of another joystick. At the moment I can get CH Flight Stick Pro, Thrustmaster Top Gun, and Thrustmaster X-fighter. I need advice, what would give me the best results? Does X-fighter have metal gimbal? I am also looking for Thrustmaster F-22, If anybody is willing to sell one please send me a message. I am also finishing the throttle, I'll post some photos soon. Thank you!