debolestis

Bad luck. That metal is crap. I don't think it is possible to glue it for use on Warthog. Spring is too strong. I made this model, you can try and print it on Shapeways. I don't know if model is OK jet, I just ordered one. It will arrive after new year. Plastic prints sims strong enough, I don't know what is quality of stainless steel prints. One thing I cannot make is treads in two smaller holes for connector but it it is easy to tap treads, you just need right tool.

I am 99% sure that FLCS or F22 grip is compatible with their adapter. Probably cheaper solution than Warthog...

I have put paddle lever on my Shapeways store. I made a new version, lever is now 5mm further away from pinkie switch. This time I didn't use black plastic but white polished plastic. I'll paint it with Revell model color. Polished plastic looks much nicer and is smoother. Sorry for bad image quality. I made also countermeasures switch and and display management switch. I found this two photos and eyeballed the details. I made CM switch a little taller, now it easier to move that switch arround. DMS is now oriented right way but I made it too wide. Ergonomics is probably trial and error science. CM switch is also in store DM switch will be reworked and added in next few days. I will add only 1,00 US$ on top of Shapeways' price on all my models. I don't plan to make a living out of this, just a few bucks to finance my hobby. All models will be printable in black, white polished plastic and stainless steel. I'll add more models in future, maybe even a CAM gimbal that I plan to make. I have received reworked throttle from GVL224 and it is amazing build. Quality is much better than anything I've ever seen. More on it in future. I started to polish throttle grips. Polished vs unpolished: Polished doesn't have any benefits but I like when things looks nice. I saw that people have problems with this part on Warthog/Cougar So I made model: And also one with 13 degrees angle: and one for Suncom's grip Last two are made with ticker base, that is for Gardena screw. Shafts can be made in plastic and stainless steel. Plastic is around 12 dollars and metal around 60. I'll test to see if plastic is strong enough for warthog base. Maybe it will work and that can be cheaper alternative for people who broke warthog's shaft.

Glue is not a good option if you want to use this part on Warthog. It is ok for other low tension Joysticks but not for Warthog. I have same broken part and it is OK on CH base but on warthog it broke in 1 minute of use. The spring is just too stiff. http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=138821&page=24 If you would like to sell a broken parts I'd like to buy it.

I experimented a little, my friend has modded Cougar, with gimbals and hall sensors and Warthog. Both grips work on my base, they are just ridiculously heavy. Warthog grip My grip also works on Thrustmaster bases, but I would have to rearrange switches on shift register for it to work properly. On Cougar base: On Warthog base: For me Warthog base is terrible, spring is so heavy. It would be very difficult to be precise with it.

I worked a little on new paddle lever for my FLCS grip. I made 3D model in Sketchup and exported it in OBJ file. I made account on Shapeways site and decided to try it. They have free shipping weekends from time to time, I used just that. I had no previous experience with 3D printing, this was just to see how it works and to see print quality. Price was around 5 Euros, for stainless steel print it was around 30. I'll probably try steel next time. This is my model: I didn't have any measures, I had a few photos of a warthosg grip. So I just eyeballed it. Warthog paddle: An this is the result: Print quality is OK, I expected it to be worse. Material is ABS strong and flexible plastic. Texture isn't smooth, it feels like very fine sandpaper, it probably could be polished. On some photos it appears dark grey but it is black, I used flashlight when I took these photos. I also made a mistake, I maybe left too little room for pinkie finger, If had moved lever 5mm up front it would have been better, maybe next time. That is it, I am happy with it, all proces from my order to delivery took about 8 days. I am not advertising Shapeways, maybe there is other companies taht are doing better job. In future I'll try metal prints as well.

Yes it is acrylic. http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=145129&page=2

I have send my SFS grips to GVL224 for total conversion. I can't wait for it to arrive...

Mine Flightstick Pro was gameport. F22 is difficult to find and is usually expensive on eBay. I found this: It is Quickshot Skymaster QS-206. I bought it for 1 on eBay, it looks bigger on pictures but it is small. Gimbal is almost identical as in CH sticks, only 1/2 the size. But there was no that feeling in diagonals. Then I started to disassemble it and removed rubber boot and that feeling was back again. I think it is because rubber boot counteracts springs in gimbal. I am going to experiment more on this.

One thing that is only a little annoying is diagonal movements, I still feel when I cross the center. One day I removed the springs and tried it without them and that feeling was gone, joystick felt completely natural except there was no more centering. I saw following examples on google search, I'll try diagonal springs like in this X55 and see how it goes. Or maybe something with RC dampers like in this great example: This my idea for now: Any suggestions?

I finished this stick at last. For now it is just with FLCS grip. Gardena screw fit fine, connection is great. I also found original connectors. I added a small switch, it is just for firmware updates. I made small PCB with connectors and I needed to change from micro USB to USB B connector. I used PC fan connectors, cables are from old fans. They go only in one direction I didn't want to accidentally change polarity a destroy sensors. I forgot to mention that I changed from Combatstick to Flightstick Pro enclosure because it is more symmetrical. Mechanism is identical, I just moved from one stick to another. Stick feels great, 14 bit resolution, stick is now extended and it is more precise. I love it.

Thank you, I'll have that in mind.

Good work, can you post some gut shots of F22 stick? Is that model M keyboard in the back? I was thinking of modding on for myself, but it is difficult to find one with Croatian layout.

It is some generic pot thumbstick. Hat is from SFS throttle, my SFS is in pieces now so I used it just for testing.

And offtopic, but I was for a week in Berlin and I visited Luftwaffenmuseum on Gatow. And among all crazy things I saw this: And here is L39 HOTAS: I recomend to everybody to visit this museum.

Some updates: I finished this: It works fine. As Sokol1 advised, I bought JB Weld and glued the broken part. I also put a plastic piece inside for support. Immediately after mixing and applying glue: There was a lot of excess glue, but I left it like that. After 12 hours it was dry but still a little bit sticky. Then I left it for total of 40 hours to dry. Then I took dremel and sanded excess glue: The bond is very strong. It looks like it never broke. I tried to break it with my hands, but I couldn't do it. It is probably OK now, time will tell. Sokol1 thank you for your advice!!! This part I cleaned and polished a little. I cut the top part and widened the hole to 11mm so that it can fit on CH shaft. And when I put it on CH:

I don't need my pots anymore, if you want them I can send them to you. Send a PM if you are interested.

You are right Sokol. Zamak seems to be tricky to weld. I ordered JB weld. I'll post results next week or so.

I found this: I plan to make my stick fully compatible with Warthog, Cougar or future hegykc stuff. Top part is unfortunately broken. I'll try to find somebody who can weld it, I know that aluminum is tricky to weld. I just hope that this is aluminum, to me it looks like alloy of zinc, but I am not an expert. Top part fits to FLCS grip. In the end I'll have plastic Cougar grip. Bottom part will also need some modification. Gardena screw fits just fine on it.

I don't think you lost anything, That cap is just push on style. There is nothing in it. I also have some problems with same switch. Sometimes it works normally but sometimes I must apply more force to activate it. I didn't have time before but I'll replace it with thumb stick. If you don't want to do that you can change it with this: It costs 34,60 on Digikey. Or you can buy one CH Flightstick Pro or Combatstick, gameport versions. You can take switches from them. I think it is the same switch. It is cheapest solution, there are many of those 2 types on eBay and you can find them for 1US$. This is one that I have and it is from CH Flightstick Pro. I don't know if you read whole post you also can use gimbals from those sticks.

I know about that problem. That is why I asked. I need the part in picture, maybe somebody with broken gimbal doesn't need it any more. I want to use it on other joystick. If you want to sell it please send me a PM.

I made plastic adapters that fit on Gardena hose connector. I need to figure out where to add connectors. I was thinking to do something with PS/2 connectors.

It would be very difficult to make it on stripboard. I am trying to make it in Eagle CAD, double layer, even that way is not easy. My skills in Eagle are basic, maybe we could develop a PCB here on forum, I don't know if people are interested in shift registers. Please let me know if somebody is willing to work on it. I made schematics (not sure if it is OK) and started to work on PCB layout. I found THIS on eBay. 10 PCBs for 14$.

27x52 mm.

Hi. Does anybody with broken Cougar gimbals is willing to sell this: Send me a PM if you want to sell or whatever. Thank you!