DeadMeat
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Everything posted by DeadMeat
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If it is out of warranty you could try to repair it yourself. It can be a loose connection in the grip or something broken inside the switch, both of which can be fixed quite easily. It is just 4 tact switches and an smd tact in the bottom wired up in a simple manner. Beep it out with a multi meter to find the problem - a wire or switch broken... If the switch itself is okay then the main board may be cooked and you'd be out of luck -
Good job
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The OTTO catalogue is a handy reference to understand their standard product codes. There's even a MIL cross reference in the back. Data sheets linked on mouser is typically just a page from the catalogue. P1 and P8 will fit the warthog grip but you should study the product code to understand what you're buying. If you look at the data sheet you'll see that those particular P8 buttons have silver casings. First one has a gray button and the other has a black button. Unless you're going for that look specifically, a better look would be P8-141x22C, P8-151x22C or P8-146x22C with the x being anything 1-6 for hobby use.
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The 1TW1-5 is a 3 position toggle switch. The radio hat switch is .. just that. Also called a trim switch. You can pay big money to swap it for a "real" OTTO 5-way switch, try to repair your original switch or ask Thrustmaster for a replacement. They may try to sell you an entire side assemble though. Unless your throttle is covered by warranty still, I'd recommend you try to repair it. It is just tact switches in a housing.
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From what I can tell the difference typically lies in the sealing level, quality testing, spec tolerances and certifications (if any). Specs and feel can be identical. For casual, hobby like use it will not make a difference.
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@ZeeMan90 it doesn't matter how you wire the contacts on the new switch. Just desolder the existing switch and connect the new one. If you're replacing multiple switches at the same time you just have to be careful not to mix them up. You may have to hot glue the OTTO switch in place or use some electricians tape if it doesn't fit snugly.
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Good job. Enjoy the clicking
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According to the data sheet, that's a silver one with a short top. The P8-141321A is in stock at Mouser (black casing, 4 lbf, red button, regular top like the P1)
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Since the large T4 barely fit, the large T5 may not - if the switch body is any taller/wider. Same size = then it should fit.. I don't know what the part number of the real switch is. T5-0010 is in the F-15 (but which variant - and for which grip/switch?) according to parttarget.com so that is a candidate at least. According to OTTO, T5-0018 will give you the correct functionality and hat look, but it is missing the bezel with text. The part number guide you're showing above is for the "mini" trim switches which are a bit smaller than the "large" trim switches you're looking for (think the large trim vs regular hat switches on the A10 grip). The minis are well documented and have meaningful part numbers but the large ones seem to be numbered sequentially or randomly. Documentation is very lackluster and they're generally not available for sale off the shelf.
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Well, I think there's still a few free inputs on the shift registers available, but then you'd have to solder the new CMS push switch straight onto appropriate the chip leg. The standard Cougar firmware is not expecting the extra switch however so that would have to be modded or the base PCB changed to something else supporting MMJoy or something home cooked and then anything's possible That gets complex fast which is why I suggested simply repurposing an existing switch connection.
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Interesting project. It may be possible to do, but it will not be easy. First you'd need to swap the CMS hat switch assembly to a 4-way + push using either a donor part from a Warthog grip, a very expensive commercial or mil spec OTTO hat switch + a custom hat, or 3d print yourself a switch assembly. Then you'd need to electrically connect the push switch. You're short one input in the Cougar, so you could sacrifice another switch connection, like the first trigger switch detent..
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Google translate tells me you're trying to get some toggles out to replace a broken EAC switch... Well to get those switches out you gotta remove the legend plate first from the top. Then you can unscrew the nuts holding the switches in place with a pair of needle nosed pliers. See the pictures earlier in this thread for info. The toggle switches are soldered to a PCB however so you're going to have to desolder the EAC, find a suitable replacement (look on Ebay) and solder that on. Alternatives include buying a full new replacement PCB from thrustmaster to drop in or replace the whole board sort of what I've done here. You can use cheap toggles if you'd like - no need to use mil spec.
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- mason
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CMS push has two wires, blue being the common wire and black being the push. You can join the blue with the yellow common for the 4-way part of the switch.
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Since you lost both it sounds like a local short or a couple of pinched wires from the bundle that goes to the main board from the LASTE sub panel.. If you're out of warranty you might as well pop 'er open and have look. With a multimeter you can beep your way to see if there's a problem with the switches or with the wires or whatever... You may not need to replace the things completely
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OK that's fine. The point of this thread is to share my experience to serve as a guide if you're interested in doing a similar upgrade. I have no info on "fixing" the original switches. If they're broken I suggest you contact thrustmaster support or file a warranty claim if you're still covered.
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There seems to be some grips that have a manufacturing defect like that. Normal behaviour should be that it springs back no breaking in required. There's a few threads on it here. Returning it under warranty is probably your best choice
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I only have experience with the Cougar, Warthog and Hornet grips (hence the thread title ) From pictures it does look like the FLCS grip is similar internally to the Cougar however (except in plastic) and as such I would say it is unsuited for the OTTO button upgrade. See here why: https://forums.eagle.ru/topic/212272-tm-fa-18c-hornet-warthog-and-cougar-grips-disassembly-and-otto-switch-upgrade/#comment-3988007 Regarding the TQS upgrade this is a good place to look https://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4324042/f16-flcs-tqs-original-usb-conversion I don't think OTTO transducers will fit the throttle if a PS minijoy wont fit. You can see the J2 dimensions here and measure your TQS to check: https://www.otto-controls.com/-/media/products/electromechanical-switches/transducers/j2transducerswitch/J2-Transducers-Catalog-Page.ashx Yes that trigger is a good candidate but It will not fit easily though - it is going to take major surgery on the grip. I bought one off eBay a while ago and I'm currently gathering courage to try and install it in the Warthog grip. That is exactly the difference - the push functionality. I have already shared suitable part numbers in this thread for the various hats on the Warthog grip in this very thread: https://forums.eagle.ru/topic/212272-tm-fa-18c-hornet-warthog-and-cougar-grips-disassembly-and-otto-switch-upgrade/page/3/?tab=comments#comment-4510989 The clue is simply to look at the manufacturer's datasheets to decipher the part number. You cannot use the picture on mouser as it is only there as a general reference - not specific for the particular part you're looking at. Here ya go: OTTO T4 datasheet OTTO T5 datasheet OTTO mini trim button styles
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For anyone curios about this - the T4-T I've mentioned in the video doesn't have push. I'm not missing it since the push unused in the A10. If you really want to got the OTTO route there's a T5 hat that has push but it doesn't have tactile feedback. Alternately they have a TK-5 hat that does have tactile feedback but may not fit.
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No problem - thanks goes out to @Hansolo et. al for grokking these things out in the first place
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Have a read through this. Similar challenge was discussed I believe.
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Table mounted landing gear selector switch from a Tornado
DeadMeat replied to DeadMeat's topic in Home Cockpits
Good to hear and that's a nice tip for compatibility with multiple modules. -
It does - I'd say most improvement is for the TDC and the EAC mag switch being sync'd with the sim. The rest of the mod mostly just adds fun "play value" and looks I guess rather than actual improved usability. Hat upgrades are way overkill for example and toggles - well the stock are pretty adequate..
