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Everything posted by Nikolas_A
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They look very similar to the C&K ones that I have, which have an indexable stop. It' a washer with a tooth that you insert in the appropriate hole
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Your aggression is uncalled for. I'm saying the problem shouldn't exist. I'm saying RightStuff has a good solution. I'm sayin I want to open a real switch cover on a real panel which I'm not going to butcher to install push switches. Read my posts again, I never criticized anyone but ED for the decision to require a switch cover signal, at least the should have an option to disable it. I'm out of here anyway...
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I don't understand your question. I said it would be better if DCS didn't expect a switch cover signal, what solution are you referring to? I will use the solution @RightStuff suggested when I get to that
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Isn't the whole point of having a physical cockpit to not have to look at the virtual one?
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I can't understand why ED went this way with this. We make cockpits to ADD to the realism. Having switches on the guards is not realistic.
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F-16A/B throttle vs Block 50/52 F-16C
Nikolas_A replied to PicklePicklePickle's topic in Home Cockpits
The cursor just has a different knob. Then there's the comm switch and the HOBO (Hands-On Black Out) switch underneath. -
Damn! I don't know how it can work in one instance and fail in another! I can fix it by projecting the text on a new sketch and filling the gaps there, but I can't understand how it can work some times...
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Great, I'll try it tomorrow. As long as there are no overlaps, in NX it's easier to just move letters after the extrusion than to create multiple text objects
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Works fine on NX, thanks. I remember having trouble in Autodesk Inventor with the original version. Some letters would not behave. I haven't tested the original version in NX but I bet it would have the same problems in every CAD Edit: spoke too soon! Even though I did a successful extrusion with letters A-Z and numbers 0-9 and it worked great, now I'm trying to make an F-16 Master Caution indicator, the S and C fails to extrude. Also the kerning is problematic, M and A in MASTER overlap slightly
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Maybe you should read the post more carefully?
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No, the lever is mechanically locked but electrically unlocked. When the LG is unweighted, a solenoid pulls the lock off and the lever can be moved up, raising the gear. The lever is locked again so the LG is not inadvertently deployed from high-G maneuvers. To lower it, the same solenoid is energized by a switch on the lever to unlock, or a mechanical plunger can unlock it if the solenoid fails.
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MS2708 doesn't exist, maybe one number missing?
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You might want to check the manual before you over-complicate things. IIRC in the F-16 only one WOW switch is checked, might be the same in the A-10
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Engraving is not the only difference...
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Yes, but there's a limit on how many DX inputs will show up in the configurator. IIRC the limit is 64, in other sims it is 32. Even if you only fly DCS now, you might want to be flexible in your planning. Of course you can always use software (e.g. vJoy) to make a 64 input controller look like two 32 inputs ones or stuff like that,
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Potentiometer, so you know where your trim is set
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It's a synchro, not easy to do. I'm still searching... Henkie on Viperpits has made a Digital to Synchro board. Mike Williams has started a proj here but no updates lately
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The flight instruments should be 3.25", so you can use those to double-check scale
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I don't understand why DCS adds more IO functionality than what's available in a real a/c. In a real a/c, pushing the button doesn't "talk" to avionics, it just locally connects the lamp to live voltage. Same with switch guards. Why the need to send a command for raising the guard? In a home cockpit the mechanical action of lifting the guard is enough! BTW, nice build. I had a few of those but sold them when I realized there is none in the Viper cockpit...
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Α matrix will not work reliably for toggles without diodes.
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As I said, it's not raised, it's just thicker! The PCB is within the panel, the switches are not through hole (actually dome switches) and then the whole thing is mounted on a metal plate with the DZUS studs. Everything is within the panel. So it doesn't matter that the buttons are over the rails. I don't have a CDU but I have a real keyboard, I can take pics of the backside if you want.
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Correct. On Viperpit there are pictures of the Manual Trim panel internals. There are motorized potentiometers driven by the hat switch (or manually).
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Every panel sits directly on the rails, it's just thicker than the other panels The thing is, in real panels the PCBs are not rectangular. They follow the shape of the panel, e.g. there would be a relief around the DZUS studs.