HawkDCS

Thanks Oubaas. Glad its not just me! Yes it is supposed to have both systems according to manual. I figure in the real AC you would probable force trim to get close then beep trim for cruise. The force trim seems to be screwed up.

Ya seems on the starter switch you have to hold it with mouse for a second to get it to start up. If you click it fast it just moves and doesn't start the turbine it is glitchy for me aswell. The nerd in me would also like to see real battery drain if you failed the start or something.

So after it does it porpoise it will settle to where you force trimmed it? I will try that again then. I seem to fly it through the bump then re force trim then give up haha.

Epic!

Oubass do you seem to run out of trim? If I am at say 80%+ Power/Torque there doesn't seem to be enough trim nose down to stop the climb? How are you getting the trimmer to work? I am holding stick where I get nose level then hit the trimmer when I release back to center the helicopter will porpoise and act like nothing was changed. Sometimes it will be even worse than before I hit the button. I am using the button trimmer for large adjustments when I run out of fine trim to hold nose down. I am having same trouble with it as Dot I am also a RL pilot but never flown anything but Bell 206. I guess I will try to use it as an on off button for the trim system. The manual does say that the Magnetic Brake Trimmer button should hold the stick in the position its in when button is pressed its in 2.5.1. So its not just an on off it would seem. Thanks for any help.

Something I dont get about the AP is how it works. If I am flying and switch it to ALT or Speed Hold it works to a point it seems. It seems to run fine for first go but if you turn it off then try and use it again it does nothing for me. It also seems once you get going fast enough with high power settings it doesn't have enough trim to control the aircraft. Very strange. I will have it in ALT mode but will still be climbing quite a bit. It seems to come down to a lower climb rate but doesnt hold the alt. The speed setting seems to work on first try then after that you can flip the switch all day and nothing happens.

When I loaded cold and dark on Groom Lake Ramp I spawned with my tail ripped off. I have a screen shot of it. When I reloaded the mission all was well again.

Great videos thanks for adding!

Any one have any recommendation the X52 has kinda crap precision so I can't imagine trying to do the 0 deadzone with it. Didnt know if anyone found any they like? I am like 5 Dead on pedals with 4 curve. And 5/5 on roll and pitch but still doesn't feel quit right. The rudder authority is just bonkers.

Same problem here. Also the trim seems to not be able to over come high airspeed. You can full nose down trim and it still needs trimmer to be used. But ya the trimmer not working is a pain. Also the rudder authority is crazy.

Had ferry loadout. Centerline was empty Wing Ext Tanks had half still. I read on reddit a new update came out for Mirage or was that an April Fools? The Client hasnt updated for me.

Was at 45000Ft and Mach 1.6 and aircraft started shaking left and right like crazy. Looked outside and Elevons were flapping like crazy up and down like Fly By Wire glitch. I hit override on the Fly By Wire system and it stopped. Turned it back on and plane was back to shaking hard and pitching left and right. Also at 45K I got a Pcab light? Canopy was locked etc so not sure if this was a glitch or if 45K ft it comes on for some reason. Thanks

Onboard video is not going to run DCS properly. As others have said buy something like a used 970 or 780 for now until Pascal comes out.

If its water cooled you should be golden to push it aways on overclocking. Usually with overclocking you can get about 10-20% gains in FPS with same card. So if you are getting 50FPS another 5-7FPS average would be great. If you are underwater you can more easily add more Mv to it aswell as card runs cooler overall.

You should be able to get that 2600K to 4.5Ghz easy with very little if any voltage bump. Just get a good cooler. I used a 2600K up till a year ago and it was still plenty fast. I only rebuilt out of needing to do some pro tasks with video editing and content creation rendering etc. The new CPUs from Intel are very small gains. Sandy Bridge has not been massively out classed even after the years. The new chips are only about 35% or a little faster. We used to see that on a bad year with CPUs haha. 2600K will drive the 970 just fine. If you do SLI you will be pushing it but single card no sweat. That board looks like it has PCI 16x 2.0 so that plenty for a single card with DCS.

Long time overclocker here. Most important thing is to watch your temps the card will slow down if it can't stay cool. Try adding 25MHZ at a time and see if its stable. Stable means the driver or game doesn't crash or have graphical artifacts with the higher clocks. Keep increasing until you get unstable and back down 20-30Mhz on the card. Start adding clock speed till its unstable. Pull back. Power target you can max out as its safe on the card. Adding MV is another story but you shouldn't hurt it adding more Mv. That being said if you toast your card don't blame me. Don't bother adding Mv unless you can't get the overclocks you want stable. Do this as a last resort. Then start adding to the Ram clocks Separately from the GPU clock. Leave GPU clock stock while increasing ram timing. Dont try and add to both at same time or you won't know what is causing the instability. Its very game dependent if you need more GPU clock or Ram Clock. Try and keep card under 80C if you can. Use the fan to do this. It will get loud the more you OC to keep your temps down. So its always a balance between noise and OC if you aren't water cooled.

Looks like X55 is replaced! Not sure about that color scheme but nice the lighting is customizable again. http://www.saitek.com/uk/prod/x56.html ${1}

Thanks! I will take that into consideration. I never thought of putting the site ranging on the rotarys haha. Its pretty handy. Looks like they just replaced it with X56. http://www.tomshardware.com/news/saitek-x-56-rhino-hotas-peripheral,31522.html#xtor=RSS-100

I hadn't tried it in DCS until the other day. I got hooked up within about 3 minutes I got about half a tank but then I got to fast and disconnected. I came back up but the tanker kept pulling the boom away from me for some reason. It would always keep it about 10 feet from port I gave up and finished mission. I don't know if its a glitch or you have to restart the pre contact on radio.

Is this the same Rudel that used to run the Janes F18 resource?

Thanks for the info! I have a big professional office chair I sit in so would be hard to get stick any lower or I would be hitting arms on chair. The desk isn't super high so I think I can get away with it. Ya the Saitek stuff has served me well in the past. I use it for tons of stuff. Its just a bummer that the X52Pro doesn't seem to have gotten a proper replacement. Mad Catz though is not known for quality and unfortunately they bought Saitek. Also sad when I retire a stick haha. I keep them all and kinda get attached to them the more I use them. I saw Logitech had one awhile back but seems they don't make it anymore.

These monitors were made for flight sims I think haha!

Bummer ya it will probably have to be on my desk. I don't have room for like a sim pit or anything.

Running Dell 3415W 21:9 3440x1440. Its awesome for flight sims.

Read a few places that the Warthog really hard to move off center? The tension is super high?