Drahkken

Thanks for guidance and images. I tried to link an image from Pasteboard showing that I do NOT HAVE the “special for joystick” category. Maybe this is a bug... I'll keep looking. Is there an image-host that I can put my screenshot of the category NOT being there?

OK, that sounds great! But I can't find this category... "Special for Joystick" doesn't show up in the control categories and I can't find it. Nor does it show up under Stick or Throttle, nor even under the SPECIAL tab itself. Am I missing something obvious or is it hidden somewhere I haven't thought to look?

Not seeing a "special for joystick" subsection so maybe I'm missing something, but the "throttle grip" section does indeed have "DOGFIGHT/Missile Override Switch - DOGFIGHT/CENTER" and "DOGFIGHT/Missile Override Switch - MISSILE OVERRIDE/CENTER" buttons, but they both require me to press the button again. I'm requesting that when I move my dogfight switch out of that position, the Sim understands the Cougar is no-longer holding the button press and therefore must be back in center, so DCS would press the Cancel for me.

Requested: Dogfight Mode should cancel (center) when Cougar TQS Dogfight switch moves out of DOGFIGHT or MISSILE OVERRIDE positions. As ThrustMaster didn't make the center position a button press, I am unable to map it within DCS. I'm requesting a Custom Setting to cancel the dogfight mode when the button is no longer pressed.

SPD BRK Switch in the Throttle Grip section of Controls. By default: LSHFT B to open LCTRL B to close

+1. It's wonderful to have. Thank you!

Yes. If not centered, it rapidly accumulates instead of allowing fine adjustment. Should be 0 elevation when centered, and increment or decrement angle relative to knob deflection. 33% rotation of knob past center should be 20 degrees up deflection of radar array.

Sam zones? It is capable if loaded pre-mission into the Data Cartridge. I’m sure that functionality won’t be available at launch.

Except it says it can connect with the existing Warthog electronics board. If it can also still integrate with the Cougar board then I need to seriously set aside monies Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I'm confused. FSSB was originally designed for the Cougar, but now the R3 seems exclusive for the Warthog. Are they compatible, or is there an alternative to upgrade my cougar to Force-Sensing with similar quality? I haven't looked at this stuff in 10 years or more...

Order #2256 received and installed in 10 minutes. This is a OMG, Holy-Shit, Why-didnn't-Thrustmaster-Do-This-In-The-First-Place mods. If you have a Thrustmaster Warthog, just do it... You'll kick yourself it took so long to decide... The quality is excellent, the installation is easy, the price is reasonable, and the controls are significantly improved. Thanks for the mod. It's close enough to perfection to just not matter...

Badass dude. Good job and thanks for your hard work! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The F16 SSC "Stick" isn't quite identical to the A-10. There are a couple difference I am aware of. There may be more. 1) There is no CMS click on the F16. The F16 maps its buttons differently and only has 4 functions instead of 5 in the A10. 2) The F16 has an additional Paddle Switch behind the Pinky switch (The A10 NWS button) that is used to override the F16 Autopilot. This allows us to adjust the AP path/alt without flipping additional switches. The F16 TQS "throttle" does not have any Autopilot functions embedded. Other that the Force-Sensing post, I know of no other differences. You could probably get away with the HOTAS Warthog controller and just swap the CMS click for the AP Override Paddle switch, but if you want maximum realism, look into the Thrustmaster Cougar, the F16 replica TM made over 20 years ago. They weren't made with Hall-Effect Sensors like the Warthog was so after all this time, it probably requires some investment, but I still love mine and won't fly a Viper with anything else...

New sensor works! Had to recalibrate my throttle range since I couldn't quite get to 0, but I'm THRILLED with the result. Thanks Miles for an excellent solution to a long-time need!

OK, saw no voltage change when magnet applied on my lab powersupply. Either the sensor or Cap is bad. Cap is showing .01nF. Don't think that's right for a 104? My reference shows should be .1uF. I'm guessing that's the problem?

Can do. What's the pinout for testing?

OK, wiring on your custom PCB seems to be OK. At least I'm getting continuity on all pins as expected... Original Board voltages are as follows: Without break at the Throttle Pot: 5.09v Without break, before R1: 5.09v Without break, after R1: 5.09v R1 Ohm: 6.8k Soo... I'm confused... Shouldn't that change the voltage or do I have a short? Am I doing something wrong? I'm not much of an Electronics guy, but I've been trying to learn lately... If I can figure out how to host pictures, I'll try to upload images of my setup...

I can confirm that my TQS is 5v at the throttle pot and has the indicated resistor. I'm loathe to break traces unless this is a guaranteed fix because, although I have a limited knowledge of basic circuits, I don't see how the Hall-Effect sensor could get power if the indicated trace is broken. Am I missing something? If all it takes is a break as indicated, I can be convinced to try it if someone with more knowledge says it makes sense.