Failed Creation

Alright thanks mate, I thought it was something like that.

After figuring out how to do a license check from my profile on the DCS page, it appears they weren't even active in the first place. SO I guess that means that thy don't need to be deactivated then do they? Ergh... I hate being sick.

... except for the Red Flag one. Is this normal? Everything else (A10C, FC3, Nevada) has the DRM button. I'm doing a clean install/format of Windows 10 on my old C drive SSD, where DCS was installed, and moving DCS to my new SSD. Sorry if I'm missing something obvious, I have a cold kicking my ass.

Thanks for the replies guys. I actually posted this same message in a few places and got a couple of useful replies. I nearly went for a Kingston A400 480GB at a decent price, but had found a site with what were mostly the cheapest prices I've seen in my country. End up getting a 250GB 860 Evo because it ended up being $52 cheaper than the A400 and the consensus of replies and more research that an NVMe wasn't going to be noticeably faster despite the numbers. In the end I went for saving money while still getting a quality product. Oh and that 5 year warranty was pretty sexy too.

I have a Corsair Force LX 256GB SSD which I now use for OS, system apps and main games. It was the only drive in my computer up until 6 months ago and has had moderate use over the past 4 years. It has been formatted 4 times that I can remember. I have a few questions about it and a possible upgrade. What sort of lifespan can I expect from it? I understand that there is a limited number of writes that can be performed before it dies. I see articles about how much faster new SSDs are. Is this only for specific use case scenarios like massive files being transferred and say, content creation? How much has current gen SSD tech improvements improved gaming load times over my older drive? How much faster will a new Evo 960 be for gaming, if at all? My motherboard only supports PCIe M.2 cards so a more expensive NVME is necessary rather than a SATA M.2, would I be better off with a 2.5" Evo rather than a M.2? Are there any trade offs? As I understand it, not having an OS on drive will improve load performance in games. I need more space as the 1TB HD I bought 6 months ago is nearly full already, so it's not a case of should I buy, but what should I buy. Yes I know that a SSD will be vastly superior speed wise, and a HD will be more storage per dollar. I'm looking at SSDs now and already have an idea what to get to increase bulk storage. Thanks guys.

I updated 1.5.8 final to 2.5 release and elected to keep 1.5 'just in case' (it was a ~12GB DL). Upon realizing that 2.5 is way slow on my HD, I cleared out space on my SSD and copied 2.5 over, leaving 1.5 on the HD as I didn't mind load times before. All I did was update the registry key with regedit to point to the new location. It runs fine, and when I DL'ed NTTR, it updated fine. I don't remember the exact location sorry, but there's plenty of threads describing where the registry entry is located.

I've only played a little, since I only downloaded 2.5 the other day, but that deferred shading is pretty damn nice! Oh and last night before bed I flew over Las Vegas :D

Subbed. Bugger using the mouse in high fidelity cockpits!

I loaded up 2.5 after downloading it to my HD (where 1.5.8 was) and after one load into a mission, immediately cleared 100+ GB space on my SSD for 2.5 :D

I didn't actually look at the prices, I didn't think they'd be cheap, but I wasn't really expecting them to be that price.

I'd wait to see if the 1100 series (or 2000 series, whatever they call it) is released within the next six months (there's rumours), rather than go for a 1080ti upgrade from a 1080 now and then get burnt by a new card that smashes my now obsolete and expensive upgrade. Especially if you want the most out of your Oculus (a 1080ti still won't be able to max it out). It's hard, but I've been holding off on a 1080ti for a while now... But that's just me. ;)

I'd look at getting some prescription lenses made specifically for the Rift if I wore glasses (OT- I probably need to): https://vr-lens-lab.com/ https://widmovr.com/product/oculus-r...enses-adapter/ https://vr-lens.eu/ I've seen a few people say that glasses are quite uncomfortable for prolonged periods in VR. And a few horror stories of glasses scratching the lenses in the HMD, which can't be replaced. Most people seem very happy with theirs from what I've seen.

I haven't commented on any of the threads/posts I've seen about this yet as the F-16 was what started my love of military jets all the way back then on the Atari ST with Falcon. I thought it might have been a re heated Easter Fools joke. While I won't talk about fantasizing about this plane as a kid, or how cool it will be in VR, I'll have to admit that it was the first plane I looked for when I started looking at getting DCS... :D

Thanks mate.

Do you remember how many GB it was to download tho?

I have limited downloads. I would like to know if anyone can tell me the download size of the NTTR map please. I've seen people say that space on disk is 30GB+ ... but I can't find how many GB D/L it is. I've spent the better part of the day so far migrating games from my SSD to make room for 2.5. Ta.

I know I don't have the fastest GPU (RX 480 8GB) but I was stuck at 45fps since 1.5.8 regardless of changing settings/turning off ASW/V-Sync off. Last night/this morning I got the 2.5 release version. After a little messing with settings, discovered V-Sync was limiting me to 60fps with ASW off (CTRL+1 works for me now) and in a short run just now am at 80-90fps for the first time. EDIT: Didn't realise that was a necro bump till after I had posted, sorry.

Yes, but you can get away with a fairly small amount. I only put a little on to begin with, and it was too much.

I put on about as much as there was original TM grease (that red stuff) which was fine, except there was a touch to much on the gimbal where it makes contact with the o-ring and made a sticky squelching noise when I pushed it so far as to make contact. I wiped a very small amount off the lip which make the contact and it stopped sounding like a cinema floor. Couldn't give you an exact amount as I bought a 100gm tube, but I did put a thin coat on every surface that made contact.

I Nyogeled my 'Hog (and removed mould lines from *inside* the peg holes) and it's a completely different beast! Smooth adjustments are easy now, before it would jerk about with all but the largest of strong and very deliberate direction changes. And I like the different feel the Nyogel gives. I also plan to Nyogel my TWCS which became impossible to make fine adjustments after only a week of moderate use.

When I have more money, I will probably get one of those new VKB Gunfighter Sticks and a Warthog adaptor. I think the only thing now is the spring position for me... I reckon a little more fine tuning and my 'Hog will be all good.

So there was still a little bump in the corner with the method described above. Rotating the spring so the bottom end is at approx. 9 o'clock and the top end is at approx. 6 o'clock has an *almost* perfect result.

So I opened it up again and found that the noise was coming from the outer gimbal/O-ring interaction as I moved the stick around. A touch too much grease. Wiped a smidgen off and no more noise as I moved it around. I was also having problems getting into the corners without excessive force since I put it back together, and after rotating the spring and messing around without the black casing on to figure out why for a while (because despite how many people seem to have the problem, mine did fine before I took it apart,) I noticed that I could get into the corners fine when both the ends of the coil were off to the left (didn't test off to the right) AND the end of the wire the coil is made from had popped out a little so it was on the 'outside' of the coil. Getting this to happen with the black case on was tricky, as before it had happened while rotating the coil with a screwdriver while it was compressed by the top, so I tried something a little drastic and just twisted the end at the top outwards till it stuck there and experimented a little before achieving success. Now I can get into the corners no problem! I don't know if this means anything to anyone, but that 'lump' you feel as you move in a circle where it wont go into the corner was putting me off some.

I used bugger all, it's a 100g tube... but enough to cover the surfaces that had grease on them when I opened it sufficiently. Certainly less than some of the YouTube videos I've seen where they get as much grease a possible in there.

Saw it posted on Facebook DCS page earlier. Looks sweeeet <drools>