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PanelBuilder

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  1. The gauges with the little inset dial are proving to be a bit of a challenge. You have to get the spacing of holes for the various shafts just right or everything jams up. The two-gear ones are a little more forgiving. Cheers, Colin
  2. Noise suppression, basically. Here's an example from a MicroChip development board: Note also the 1K in-line resistor on the input pin. Always recomended for pots or switches. But that will be provided on the board by the manufacturer. Cheers, Colin
  3. I'd say you're doing real well there Ragtop. On the pots, you can certainly use common grounds and +5s. You can also, optionally, put a small cap across input and ground on each if it's not allredy in place on your board. What input board did you say you using for the pots? Cheers, Colin
  4. Here's something funny: for the longest time I thought from the pictures of the 358 Wire Manager accessory that how you used it was to put a spool of wire on it. Until I saw the In Use Example here: http://panavise.com/index.html?pageID=1&page=full&--eqskudatarq=38 Cheers, Colin
  5. It certainly is. I dont think I would get a 366 head though. It's not self-centering and doesn't look to be as "industrial" as the 376. Some of our panels, even replicas, can get quite heavy. For the size circuit boards I do, the Standard Head with the 344 Grooved Nylon Jaws works pretty well. http://panavise.com/index.html?pageID=1&page=full&--eqskudatarq=33 203 PV Jr. Head is also good, though the last PV Jr. I had, the two adjustment knobs on the end got locked up together and would not separate. http://panavise.com/index.html?pageID=1&page=full&--eqskudatarq=24 Cheers, Colin
  6. I ocurred to me that you might want to look at the Panavise Model 376 head. It's a real solid piece of kit, and I've found that it works well with our panels. http://www.allspectrum.com/store/extra-wide-opening-head-panavise-model-376-p-1510.html Cheers, Colin
  7. Yes, that's what works for me too. Colin
  8. This is way cool, brother. Colin
  9. Nice. Really want to see the SU version. Colin
  10. I don't think I'd say only CAD drawings :-) They look mighty fine to me. Colin
  11. Yes, well, it's a popsicle stick. These boards will run 6, 12, 18, or 24 servos at a pretty good price: http://www.pololu.com/catalog/category/12 Cheers, Colin
  12. Beautiful work. You the man. But y'know, I think I would have cut those LED leads back to about 1/4 inch. Cheers, Colin
  13. Cool. I'm going to try a consolidate everything here: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=79428 Cheers, Colin
  14. Here's a slightly modified HS-311. The new shaft is a 1/4" rod with a 7/32" hole drilled in the end. All the gears I'll be using on the servo side come with a 1/4" bore. Cheers, Colin
  15. Any chance you can get pictures of the MFCDs ? Straight on and sideways ? With a ruler ? That would be the coolest thing, short of bringing one home with you :-) Colin
  16. I just wanted to mention that I'm trying to get away from the servo-mount gears. Aside from the fact that they're expensive and only available from one place, the thing about them is they sit flush with the top of the spline; they are not offset to one end of a barrel like a normal servo horn. This can be an issue depending on which servo you use and how thick a plate you want to mount it on. I am moving towards this approach: Cheers, Colin
  17. Step 3. Add switches and other stuff: Cheers, Colin
  18. This is cool. I don't have a laminator, or even a printer, so here's how I've managed in the past: Step 1. Take the artwork on a CD, and a chunk of material, to photo store and tell them to laminate the one onto the other, and to trim flush, no borders. Step 2. Center punch and drill the holes. Here's a sample artwork: WSCFaciaFinal.bmp The textured bckground is intentional btw. Cheers, Colin
  19. So what would it take to get these working with Helios? http://www.pololu.com/catalog/category/12 Can anybody do it, or is it a developer thing? Thanks, Colin
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