PanelBuilder

One obvious thing we should perhaps mention is that you can use a double throw ON/OFF switch (SPDT) for a 2 position switch in the sim and just wire one side. Sometimes you can only get the actuator you want in SPDT, or you want all the switches in a row to look the same, or the SPDT is cheaper than the SPST, or you just want to buy in bulk. Something to keep in mind, anyway, Colin

There are lots of miniature encoders and pots that sit on top of the circuit board. Of course you don't need a circuit board. http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=3310Y-001-103L-ND http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=P12418-ND These might be useful too: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=P12423-ND http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=P12422-ND

This is way cool. Should be easy to add the few knobs, too. Colin

If you mean the actuator stays in the position you place it, then no, it doesn't mean that. I think they just mean the switch snaps into the board. The CA one has a centre push switch and the AA one not. Cheers, Colin

Hi. Do you think you could get the diams of the handles of those 4 push-pull switches at the bottom right of the Fuel Panel? I'm a bit confused about those. Thanks much, Colin

Try SKQUCA. It's from Alps. Cheers, Colin

Ah, I missed the A part. Have fun anyway :-) Colin

If we could get the *depth* of the MFCD bezels that would be super. That's just a hard dim to figure from 2D pics. Thanks Flim, Colin

Cool.

Please don't.

Here's a start: http://dkc1.digikey.com/us/en/tod/NKK/SwitchBasics/Switch_Basics.html Enjoy, Colin

Thinking about this some more, if the light plate is supposed to be 1/4" and we're makeing all three plates out of 1/8, maybe the top two layers should have the cutouts for the side fasteners.

:-) https://www.fbo.gov/index?s=opportunity&mode=form&id=5f20480cbbf5621713de75b4f77093d9&tab=core&_cview=0 Cheers, Colin

One other thing. I think only the top layer needs to have the side cutouts for the fastener heads. This means that the 2 bottom plates can be identical: pilot holes for each switch, #4 inside through holes, and #6 (#8 ?) clearance holes for the edge fasteners. Thanks, Colin

Alternatively, you can use crimp-on connectors: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=WM2804-ND http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=WM2562CT-ND Cheers, Colin

Some follow up on this now that I've got the switches mounted. Just comparing this method (2 welded top layers + separate bottom switch layer) vs the way I built BS panels (3 separate layers). I think the 3 separate layers is better; here's why: I bolt the switches to the bottom layer and then attach the middle layer. Then I can lay a straight edge over the switch bodies and adjust their height so that they come up just to the top of the middle layer. Then I can bolt on the top layer. So, suggestions: 1. Top layer is perfect except don't paint the bottom. 2. Middle layer: Don't glue. Don't paint. Provide clearance holes for nuts like you're doing but make them big enough for a socket OR just provide 1/16" pilot holes. 3. Bottom layer. Please provide in same thickness. Don't glue. Don't paint. Probably best to just provide 1/16" pilot holes for all switches. Except please provide clearance holes for the outside edge fasteners in this layer. Finally: Please, please continue to make the #4 interior through holes in all layes. Thanks again pitbldr. These are outstanding panels. Colin

The lit switches I would like to use are 8.2 mm high. So if I can have 10 mm or a little more between the bottom of the buttons and the bottom of the bezel life is sweet. If I can have 15 mm we can put the switches on one side of the PCB and the other components on the other. I'm thinking of two approaches: 1. 28 pin PIC -- this gives us 23 inputs which is just right if we don't connect the 3 unimplemented rockers, and wire the rotary as a 2-bit pot. 2. smaller PIC and put a shift register on each side. I like this because less traces need to converge on the side with the PIC. Either way, I'm going to make the BRT and CON rockers detachable from the interface so they can be connected directly to the display hardware, if desired. Interface is going to be lua, not buttons or keys. Colin

Thanks Deadman. ms numbers would be great. Colin

Thanks. I'd forgotten about Allied. Colin

Thanks Deadman. If you have any acurate knobs you'd like to sell, shoot me a PM. Cheers, Colin

Thanks ZQ. I'd love to support OC, but these just aren't the right knobs. I can get closer at Digikey or Mouser (but still not close enough). Maybe someone with real panels could make a mould.

I do. I really, really do. Colin

Anybody found a good source for knobs, like the 2 kinds on the Lighting Control panel? TIA Colin

Wow! This is amazing! Where do you get this stuff? Colin

This is the only pot-to-keystroke solution ( ie no lua) I know of: http://www.hagstromelectronics.com/products/kead6.html Cheers, Colin