KLaFaille

The great thing about this being a game is that people are free to play it however they want.

If it is unchecked you have to manualy tune your radios. Say, just for example, your flight is on 275.000 Mhz and a tanker is 273.000 MHz. You could tune radio 1 to 275.000 and radio 2 to 273.000. If you want to talk to your flight you would then use the key command for COMM1 (or whatever you may have it bound to on your HOTAS), and if you want to talk to the tanker you would use the key command for COMM2.

Checked. That should allow you to just use \ without tuning radios and needing to use COMM1 or COMM2.

Did you go back into the option menu and ensure "easy communications" is checked under the game play tab like I mentioned above?

Check the box for Easy Communications under the gameplay tab in the settings menu to use \ in the air. With easy comms turned off you have to ensure your radios are tuned properly and use RAlt+\ to key COMM 1 and RCtrl+\ for COMM2.

The crosshair that is slewable is an offset. You can slew that anywhere on the screen and when you press the SCS to cycle out of point track the tpod will snap to where the cross was.

Been reported as bug: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=276506

You can also switch between CCD and FLIR modes by pressing the RAID/FOV button on throttle for greater than .8 seconds. I'd recommend reading Chuck's F/A guide. It goes into much greater detail than the DCS manual. https://www.mudspike.com/chucks-guides-dcs-f-a-18c-hornet/

There's a couple things you can do. First, when in INR mode you can designate a point prior to going into area or point track, just slew the sensor where you want and hit designate. When you press the sensor select switch to cycle from point track back to INR the sensor will snap back to the initially designated point. Second, if you are in area or point track and press TDC depress you go into offset mode and will see a small white cross in the center of the reticle. You can slew that cross to any point on the screen and once you cycle from point track to INR the sensor will snap to where the cross was. In either case, do not press undesignate, cycle back to INR using sensor select switch.

Bug report submitted

There seems to be an issue with the brightness of the cockpit console/panel lights, HUD, UFC, DDIs, and AMPCD being too dim starting with the last update. The console and instrument panel lighting is not nearly as bright as it was, and the DDIs, especially the right one, are nearly illegible when any sunlight hits them. first three shots and close-up of right DDI are from the newest update. The last shots are from the current stable release. The lighting seems unchanged at night but goes wonky once the sun comes up. All shots were taken in Persian Gulf, 0745, hot on runway at Qeshm and every display and light is turned up to max day brightness. PC system settings identical between stable and beta.

I'm noticing that all the cockpit lighting is much dimmer than it was before this last update. The console and IP lighting don't get nearly as bright, and the HUD, DDIs and AMPCD appear like they are all set to night mode. The DDIs do get nearly unreadable with any sort of direct light on them, where as before the update the sun had to be nearly over your shoulder beaming right onto a display before you couldn't actually read them.

See second post. http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=76598 Red

Hey, Just logged in for the first time in forever! Project isn't dead, but real life delivered a swift kick to the nuts last August that put a huge damper on things. I've been more focused on the electronic side of things lately, lots of learning, reading, experimenting with stuff. Considering I had zero real electronics skill going in it's taken some time, but things are coming together. I'm currently focusing on a learning a bunch of Atmel microcontrollers, and getting the gist of C programming again after not having touched it since college 10 years ago. I never thought that expensive piece of fancy, useless paper would come in handy, until now. :doh: Lots I want and need to do still, but need funds and other shit gets in the way. All in due time. :) K

Hi, I don't have any knowledge of the RWR or what would be required to make it work, sorry. Mike Powell though has successfully made one work and you can see that here: http://www.mikesflightdeck.com/rwr_project/rwr_project.html To make the HSI and ADI work, you are going to need 115V 400Hz AC, 26V 400Hz AC, digital-to-synchro converters for each axis / synchro movement that you want to interface and control, or extra synchros setup with stepper motors connected to the instruments. Mike Powell has available in one of his books, schematics for building DTS controllers, and a static inverter to get the 400Hz AC. I have 3 or 4 aircraft static inverters that I bought off eBay that supply both 115V and 26V 400Hz when supplied with 28VDC. If you look around and are patient you can find them for good prices occasionally. Commercial DTS units are very very pricey, but occasionally can be found for affordable prices. You're going to have to find some form of schematic, or break open the units and figure out what is going on inside of them, but be warned, there is ALOT of stuff in a very small space packed into the instruments. You probably saw this before but here it is again: YUXa1ssfEIU Red

Hey Niclas, got it in the mail yesterday and threw it together. All is good. Plugged it in, it was detected right away, no issues. I need to crimp on the connectors to the ribbon cable now and play around a bit. Thanks! B256A13 (2 of 2) by KLaFaille, on Flickr B256A13 (1 of 2) by KLaFaille, on Flickr

Per a discussion with an ED developer, LUA export of the CDU screen information is not supported nor will it be in the near future, unfortunately.

SOLD

LOL No kidding, I'd need a gallon of Vaseline to get in and out of that thing! Must be nice to be small. ;) Red

Looks really good. Glad it's coming together for you! Red

Dimebug, I've been meaning to mention this for a while but kept forgetting. Whether you care or not is a different story but the side consoles, in reality, aren't sloped like you have them. They would be parallel to the floor, vs the slight upward slope you have designed into them. Also as a general FYI, the throttle panel / quadrant is angled up 7 degrees from the rear section of the console (LASTE Panel, radios, etc) in actuality. K

Sure thing. Yeah its the TM Warthog, but I removed all the cheap TM pushbuttons and replaced them with the proper Otto switches as used in the real grip, apart from the color that is.

The stick only has the one bend in it with the 20 degree angle. The connector and grip are attached to the insert you see in pic three. The angle for those is set by the insert and they are parallel to the bottom of the stick.

The angle is right around 20 degrees and the bend is about a four inch radius. K

Speaking of third hands, some of the best ones I've seen were home built using the snap together coolant hoses used on milling machines with clips attached to the ends. Another great setup was one made with the gooseneck metal conduit used on microphones. Super adaptable and way more pose-able than the garbage tiny little ones with the two clips. http://www.instructables.com/id/Third-Hand-A-multi-use-helping-hand-for-electro/ This is a neat one for soldering too. http://www.instructables.com/id/Yet-another-third-hand-soldering-aid-with-some-n/ I really have to make a setup like the coolant hose one. I spend more time fighting with the small tabletop one than actually using it usefully. K