KLaFaille

I took these today at the Quonset Airshow. The planes are based out of Kansas City and after talking with one pilot, I found out he's from a town about 15 minutes from me, the same age as I am, and he just got back from two tours in Afghanistan. Cool dudes. You can click on any of the pics for the full size. A-10C Cockpit (1 of 26).jpg by KLaFaille, on Flickr A-10C Cockpit (2 of 26).jpg by KLaFaille, on Flickr A-10C Cockpit (3 of 26).jpg by KLaFaille, on Flickr A-10C Cockpit (4 of 26).jpg by KLaFaille, on Flickr A-10C Cockpit (5 of 26).jpg by KLaFaille, on Flickr A-10C Cockpit (6 of 26).jpg by KLaFaille, on Flickr A-10C Cockpit (7 of 26).jpg by KLaFaille, on Flickr A-10C Cockpit (8 of 26).jpg by KLaFaille, on Flickr A-10C Cockpit (9 of 26).jpg by KLaFaille, on Flickr A-10C Cockpit (10 of 26).jpg by KLaFaille, on Flickr A-10C Cockpit (11 of 26).jpg by KLaFaille, on Flickr A-10C Cockpit (12 of 26).jpg by KLaFaille, on Flickr A-10C Cockpit (13 of 26).jpg by KLaFaille, on Flickr A-10C Cockpit (14 of 26).jpg by KLaFaille, on Flickr A-10C Cockpit (15 of 26).jpg by KLaFaille, on Flickr A-10C Cockpit (16 of 26).jpg by KLaFaille, on Flickr A-10C Cockpit (17 of 26).jpg by KLaFaille, on Flickr A-10C Cockpit (18 of 26).jpg by KLaFaille, on Flickr A-10C Cockpit (19 of 26).jpg by KLaFaille, on Flickr Red

It sounds because of the APU GEN lamp being lit on the annunciator panel. The MC is meant to draw a pilots attention to the warning panel when an indicator lights.

As soon as the IDG on the left engine kicks in (52% engine core RPM speed), the GCU has contactors simultaneously drop the APU Generator off all AC busses and connect the left engine's IDG to carry the full load of all AC busses. Once the right engine IDG comes online more contactors operate which drop the left IDG from the right AC bus and allow the right IDG to supply the right AC bus. If ground power is suppling power the APU generator is also disconnected from all AC busses. All it does once disconnected is supply bleed air and power to its hydraulics cooling fan.

Yes. As soon as the core speed reaches 52% on the left engine, its Integrated Drive Generator starts supplying AC electricity to the AC busses, and the APU Generator is automatically disconnected from said busses. See here for more info: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?p=1169910#post1169910

It's the APU GEN warning light coming on because the APU Generator is running but it does not supply any electricity to the aircraft after the the left engine reaches 52% RPM and it's generator assumes the electrical load. You can acknowledge the alarm and then switch off the APU and APU generator once you have your engines running at idle as normal.

speed brake = (on)-off-on boat= on-on china hat = (on)-(on)

The boat switch is not momentary.

Over the last few days I tore apart the Thrustmaster Warthog throttle and started modifying my real A-10A grip to a C model grip using a combination of TM and real parts. I had originally tried just taking and modifying the entire Warthog right grip to work on the throttle arm, but this was proving to be difficult so I went the other way and adapted the TM parts to the real grip. I removed the entire face of the A model grip and opened up the interior to allow the TM side panel to be fitted. They aligned up quite well actually and with some filler and sanding and a coat of paint things should close up nicely. The speed brake and china hat switches have been replaced by real aircraft switches and I desoldered the board in the grip and will mount it elsewhere, either in the base of the throttle itself, or externally with the rest of the Warthog control cards. Throttle Grip (1 of 2) by KLaFaille, on Flickr Throttle Grip (2 of 2) by KLaFaille, on Flickr

I don't speak on behalf of Eagle Dynamics, only on account that, like Deadman above, I have an ARU-2B/A sitting on my shelf over there. Stuff (1 of 2) by KLaFaille, on Flickr Stuff (2 of 2) by KLaFaille, on Flickr And there is this:

There is no white triangle on that scale on the real ARU-2B/A Indicator, only the chevron, end of story. The only triangles on the instrument are the two at the north and south poles of the sphere which turn in unison with it, and the triangle at 6 o'clock which stays stationary. It is something that should not be in the simulator and needs to be removed.

Haha Gus, Don't sell yourself short, you're light years ahead of me in other departments already *cough* electronics *cough*. I'm a hack when it comes to that. ;) Red

Thanks guys. Getting the TM stick on the real control stick was a very simple task after a bit of brainstorming. The original Amphenol insert in the stick was removed altogether as seen here. base2 by KLaFaille, on Flickr Note that the two keys on the base are set at the proper angle for the rotation of the grip already. Now luckily the mounting piece in the bottom of the TM grip is just about a perfect diameter to fit on here. I filed two keyways into the grip that fit into the keys shown above, and took off a little material as needed to get it to sit flush against the top of the control stick. base by KLaFaille, on Flickr The thread pitch on the control stick gland nut is 1-1/2" x 18, so I found an old Amphenol receptacle that used the same thread pitch and cut off the threaded portion and filed it down to the height that I needed. The ID of the threads was just about the same as the OD of the TM stick base, so I took a couple of split rings (silver piece in the pic above) and placed them around the center post coming out of the TM stick. Now when the threaded portion I cut off screws into the control stick gland nut the split rings and TM stick base are sandwiched between the two holding it in place. Once it gets tight enough, the two set screws in the gland nut are tightened down, and voila, we have a setup that is rock-solid and ready to go. I'll either do the PS2 extension cable or make my own little connectors for either end and run that through the control stick to attach to the TM electronics. The OTTO pushbuttons are sweet, btw. :thumbup: Red

Danke :D

Photo's, as promised. Modded Warthog (1 of 4).jpg by KLaFaille, on Flickr Modded Warthog (2 of 4).jpg by KLaFaille, on Flickr Modded Warthog (3 of 4).jpg by KLaFaille, on Flickr Modded Warthog (4 of 4).jpg by KLaFaille, on Flickr Red

Small update. Last night I modified the internals of the TM warthog stick and removed the stock pushbutton switches and replaced them with the proper real pushbuttons used in the F16/A10C stick. These are heavy duty, take a bit more pressure to depress then even the trigger to it's second stage, and have a tactile and audible click when pushed. Only thing is that they are all white caps, but that's not too bad and if I may dye them at a later date. I'll put up a pic when I get home.

Seconded

Thank you very much for offering to help byrdling, because I honestly don't know how to make the pair of synchro and control transformers in the ADI dance yet. :) I knew that some D/S converters were needed, but had yet to build it or anyway to interface it with a PC. It's a bit late right now, so I will PM you tomorrow or perhaps we could discuss this via MSN if you have it. Thanks much, I have bunches of questions! Red

Here's another new toy to try and electrocute myself with... a 400Hz Static Inverter from some aircraft or another. Input 28VDC and you get an output of 115V 400Hz AC to drive instruments and whatnot. I'll use this for running the synchro and control transformers in the ADI, and whatever else I can figure out how to make work that needs 400Hz. I have a couple other 400Hz supplies, so quantity of juice shouldn't be an issue, if need be.

Stick shaker in action. Red

Thanks. Getting everything mocked up that I can will just make the actual fabrication that much easier in the long run, and I'll know that real stuff or stuff that I make to specs will fit now or later if there are mods or upgrades to the pit. Sims for some people are keyboards and mice, joysticks for others, partial pits, etc. Deadman and I are insane and we want it all.

And sturdier, more durable, and correct to how real panels are constructed. :beer:

I have the throttle torn apart IRL, so now is as good a time as any to draw it up. Doing this so that i have all my ducks in a row before I cut my first piece of aluminum. Throttle WIP - 24MAY11 by KLaFaille, on Flickr

Drama can go elsewhere boyos, thanks very much. Oh, and I am now the proud owner of six real UFC master caution light switches. :thumbup: Pics to come when they arrive. If anyone wants one but isn't prepared to hear the price for a real, nigh impossible to find aircraft switch, don't waste your or my time. :bye_2: Red