How To: Remove centre detend from Saitek Pro Flight Rudder Paddles

OK anyone have similar advice on how to remove the detent on the Saitek X-52 Pro Throttle / Collective? That detent is KILLING me (Literally) with the Huey... The detent is in EXACTLY the wrong spot, right when you need real fine control while landing... Can't tell you how many times this thing has killed me... (I will continue to blame the throttle /collective until I can get it fixed... THEN I might admit that MAYBE some of the fault is the pilot but right now can't get past the damned collective)

The search-function of this forum is your friend !...

>>>http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?p=880565#post880565

Well - a search engine is your friend. Search term "Gas springs

My question was more about dimensions and strength,

i knew what it was but there is all kinds of these for even more purposes.

Edit: are these the ones? https://www.hornbach.de/shop/Klappenstuetze-Lift-Basic-rechts-links-verwendbar-Oeffnungswinkel-80-110-1-Stueck-/7832616/artikel.html?sourceCat=S2154&WT.svl=artikel_img

My question was more about dimensions and strength,

i knew what it was but there is all kinds of these for even more purposes.

>>> http://www.hornbach.at/shop/Klappenstuetze-Lift-Basic-rechts-links-verwendbar-Oeffnungswinkel-80-110-1-Stueck-/7832616/artikel.html

Is this enough info?

Thank you very much

Another solution, for G940 pedals.

Rotor: http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=1662280&postcount=10

Fix Wing: http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=1672730&postcount=13

Greetings!

It seems that living in a dusty flat inhabited by myself, my wife, two tortoises and a dog has taken its toll on my Warthog and particularly my pedals. Does anyone have any advice for cleaning/lubricating these Saitek pedals? Currently mine feel as if they have an extra detent about a quarter of the way through the right-foot's travel.

Here comes the obvious answer:

Read post #1 again and follow everything up to step #7 - than clean the rails and wheels the pedals are sliding on - also check the gears that transmission the movement to the potentiometer to be free from dirt.

Use thick silicone-grease to lubricate everything.

It seems that living in a dusty flat inhabited by myself, my wife, two tortoises and a dog has taken its toll on my Warthog and particularly my pedals. Does anyone have any advice...

I have found that my hardware is staying much cleaner since I quit letting my dog fly. I'd keep an eye on the tortoises though, they are faster than they look! :D

Thanks. I really shouldn't post when tired. I looked at your post and missed the obvious.

Sorry for the above stupidity.

I have found that my hardware is staying much cleaner since I quit letting my dog fly. I'd keep an eye on the tortoises though, they are faster than they look! :D

Ha Ha quality gotta keep am eye on the tortoise at all times, I think they are aliens and when you ain't looking they retract their landing gear head and tail and use their trans warp drive hoover mode to get about :D

Removed the detend nipple, feels much better, but my rudder is stuck slightly to the left. I have tried the saitek software and windows device control but can't seem to find out how to re-center the pedals. Any ideas?

Any ideas?

>>> Sticky: corrupt calibration? crazy joystick response? Use this tools Fix it: ( 1 2) PeterP

Had the same problem when I modified my pedals. The problem for me was, that the gears connecting the pedals to the poti where not properly aligned when I put the pedals back together. As a result, the poti didn't report that it was centered. The gears are very coarse, so I is easy to align then properly. Hope that this is your problem also and I could be of help.

so long

Mathias

--EDIT--

Forgot to take the opportunity to thank PeterP for the boldness of trying it first and of course for sharing the results: THANKS :-)

What Nobody96 wrote!

Make sure that you don't unintended moved the cogs/gears one tooth further as it was while dissembling! - open it again and bring both back to center when the ruder are centered - keep the rudders connected via USB and a control-window open in Windows while adjusting it to make sure the poti is working in the whole range.

Thanks Peter and Mathias, I tried the calibration method, so I believe it is the centering gear.

Miguel

Thanks for info and photos.

My problem was also the big spring to center the pedals, which made it practically impossible to push the pedals all the way forward effortless (with no tension applied). So removed that one too, and what a nice difference it made. No need for a rubber band.

Done mine today and they work like a dream a must for flying long times.

My legs were starting to hurt after spending all weekend mastering the huey.

That spring is a bit stiff too took me some stretching to get it to open up a bit.

I have just attempted the gas spring mod, it was however unsuccessful.

The springs cause the entire mechanism to bend which introduces a lot of stiction.

Luckily the plastic is very flexible, so nothing broke and i could reverse it.

On the photo you can see quite well how the whole thing bends and lifts out about 5mm on one side.

OK - sorry for that.

But I see (I believe) that you use two diffident screw types. (and they are awfully angled - -instead go straight down).

.

Are both screws really long enough that they go also into the second disk that lies beneath the first ones - so it holds itself together without that the upper one can bend up ? And both screws are seaming to be (so its called in German : ) 'Machine screws' - and not some with a wide thread and a sharp facing point.. - so they maybe have not the possibility to get some catch of the lower disk - and this is your problem -

nevermind

8):)

@ all:

Please : Make your own thoughts if all will be fitting beforehand and if it makes sense - and don't just try to copy something.

to make it short : Don't 'attempt' - just do.

or do not.

If i make these holes any deeper it would go into a part of the housing that doesn't turn with the pedals, that way the whole thing would lock up.

Those screws might have a different head but are both 50mm long and use the same M4 thread, i also pre drilled the hole so they go in all the way.

They are also screwed straight down, it just bends this way once the dampers put force on it.

I surely made sure if it fits beforehand, but the structure just doesn't seem to be able to take it.

Maybe the dampers i got are stronger than yours (100N).

Edit: See here http://imgur.com/a/OH2Vl

The outer "barrel" and the inner disc are turning, but the part in between does not.

The screws were almost at this non spinning part already, but if they go into it the pedals will lock up.

Hi all,

I attempted to remove the detent from mine, and all went well and physically it feels great!

Buuuut, it looks like I messed somthing up, the with the pedals in the neutral position they are off the the left. Attached is a picture of the input. I have tried re-plugging it / rebooting and all the normal troubleshooting, so I assume I didn't put it back together properly.

Before I pull it apart again, has anyone encountered this and if so what is the cause and solution?

Thanks!

>>>http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=1633606&postcount=16

I edited also the instruction with a BOLD/CAPITAL/RED sentence to prevent this 'mishap' in the future.

Hi all,

 

I attempted to remove the detent from mine, and all went well and physically it feels great!

 

Buuuut, it looks like I messed somthing up, the with the pedals in the neutral position they are off the the left. Attached is a picture of the input. I have tried re-plugging it / rebooting and all the normal troubleshooting, so I assume I didn't put it back together properly.

 

Before I pull it apart again, has anyone encountered this and if so what is the cause and solution?

 

Thanks!

 

If i make these holes any deeper it would go into a part of the housing that doesn't turn with the pedals, that way the whole thing would lock up.

Those screws might have a different head but are both 50mm long and use the same M4 thread, i also pre drilled the hole so they go in all the way.

 

They are also screwed straight down, it just bends this way once the dampers put force on it.

 

I surely made sure if it fits beforehand, but the structure just doesn't seem to be able to take it.

Maybe the dampers i got are stronger than yours (100N).

 

Edit: See here http://imgur.com/a/OH2Vl

The outer "barrel" and the inner disc are turning, but the part in between does not.

The screws were almost at this non spinning part already, but if they go into it the pedals will lock up.

Again:

the type of your screws are not made for this job - and I never had to drill a hole. My screws ( wide thread and a sharp facing point ) are not angled an going straight down to the inner turning disk an don't block any movement.

>>>http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=1633606&postcount=16

 

I edited also the instruction with a BOLD/CAPITAL/RED sentence to prevent this 'mishap' in the future.

Oh cheers. I'll open her up and give that a fix, and post back how it goes.

Ok we are all good!

I opened her back up to adjust the gear. At first I was worried it would take alot of trial-and-error to get the right tooth lineup, but the simplest method I would advise would be to alight it with what looks like the middle, then shift it full left and right and see if the end teeth lineup too.

My only issue with this modification is that sometimes when returning it to the neutral position, the lack of the detent lets it sit slightly to either side, as seen in this picture:

(Slight left rudder with neutral input)

However that's easy fixed with a slight deadzone, so no issue there.

My biggest challange for the whole process was removing the spring, which to me felt that it was locked into position and not removable.

My tip for overcoming this is to use the notch of a key to stabilize it then apply alot of force to extend the spring, then pull her free. Here's a reference picture, feel free to include it in the original post if you like:

All in all a 10/10 addition to the pedals, I would recommend this to anyone who owns a pair.

Good stuff PeterP, +rep!