X52 pro...is it "that" bad today???

[HiJack]

My only disappointment is that new out-of-the-box, my unit's throttle MFD brightness is unstable (it alternately brightens and dims on its own).

That problem can be because you are running it through a USB3 port I believe. Get a USB2 backplate slot and plug it in to the internal USB2 ports.

[Diplocaulus]

That problem can be because you are running it through a USB3 port I believe. Get a USB2 backplate slot and plug it in to the internal USB2 ports.

 

Thanks for the tip, HiJack. I've tried the X-52 Pro with both USB 2 and USB 3 and the result is the same.

[Grundar]

The X55 is great if you can tolerate the price point, you get what you pay for though - it's plastic (albeit pretty bloody solid plastic and you are only going to break it if you want to).

 

The Warthog is the pinnacle of joysticks but she is a steep, steep price + you'll need to buy separate rudder pedals (X55 has a twist stick, nowhere near as good as pedals, but she does fine)

 

The X55 has no deadzone settings on the stick and has adjustable springs to cater to how you like the stick to feel - that's good or bad depending on how you like your joysticks. The Stick itself is big though and the hats in un-ergonomic locations - I have no idea why they did that - it has no two stage trigger either if you must have that sort of thing.

 

Plenty of bad reviews out their for X55 problems (you'll find those for every joystick though), never had a problem with mine though, very pleased with it (and also the only joystick I can comment on as I current own it) :P

[Ala12Rv-watermanpc]

x52 pro purchased :thumbup:

 

hope to have a nice experience with it...right now the price is the same as x55 but I think that ergonomics in x52 are sooo good that I cant let it go...

[Ala12Rv-watermanpc]

I know it may be a bit off topic but meanwhile I wait for the joy...I wonder if there is any way to use the MFD buttons for gaming???...and, can I just disable the MFD completely (turn it off)...I cant see any use for it and dont want the green light of it iluminating constantly...

[HiJack]

The buttons under the MFD is usable in game if you map them directly in DCS. The MFD itself shows button presses and also selected configuration if you use the SST software.

[Ala12Rv-watermanpc]

The buttons under the MFD is usable in game if you map them directly in DCS. The MFD itself shows button presses and also selected configuration if you use the SST software.

 

Ok, great to be able to use those buttons (btw, all of them??)...about the mfd its nice to see that info but just in case, can it be turned off or at least the green light??

[HiJack]

Ok, great to be able to use those buttons (btw, all of them??)...about the mfd its nice to see that info but just in case, can it be turned off or at least the green light??

Yes you can turn all light off but not individual, it will turn off all light on buttons as well. But yes, it will be completely dark if you like.

[Blech]

Ok, great to be able to use those buttons (btw, all of them??)...about the mfd its nice to see that info but just in case, can it be turned off or at least the green light??

 

 

Hi,

 

Saitek X52 Pro Control System

http://asn-xp.aerosoft.com/?page_id=257

 

Find : has five tabs of which 4 are

[Ala12Rv-watermanpc]

Yes you can turn all light off but not individual, it will turn off all light on buttons as well. But yes, it will be completely dark if you like.

 

So no independant brightness control for MFD and buttons?¿?:huh:...then whats the point in having 2 separate brightness sliders in 2 differen tabs in gaming devices for the X52 pro??...I mean those:

 

 

 

Hi,

 

Saitek X52 Pro Control System

http://asn-xp.aerosoft.com/?page_id=257

 

Find : has five tabs of which 4 are

 

thanks, great review!!:thumbup:

[HiJack]

Yes, you are right. The MFD slider in fact leaves the buttons lit. So the MFD then can be all dark :thumbup:

[Ala12Rv-watermanpc]

Great! Thanks mate!!

[HiJack]

Yes, sorry for that. I haven't used the control panel much. Only thing I change from default is to clear the "Enable Clutch Mode" setting that is default.

[Ala12Rv-watermanpc]

Its ok pal!!, dont worry!!:thumbup:

[Devrim]

...I wonder if there is any way to use the MFD buttons for gaming?...

I'm not sure if I get your question, but you can use the buttons (and two wheels) under the MFD in game.

 

Left wheel: JOY_BTN32
Upper (silver) button: JOY_BTN33
Lower (silver) button: JOY_BTN34
Right wheel: JOY_BTN39

Note that; wheels can be used only as a button, not up/down rotary thing. At least I couldn't use them in that way.

[algerad3]

Watermanpc.

Check the link in my sig.

[Ala12Rv-watermanpc]

Finally arrived!!

 

the thing is huge compared to my T flight X...well, it seems to be working fine, and the MFD buttons are ALL working for me!!!!:beer:, I just tested in the F-15C and even could assing trim to the wheels no problem!!, I mean the rotation movement not pushing!!, and its very intuitive...but there are also some problems as you said:

 

-Installation went fine, no problems BUT...after installed I tried to connect it to another USB port (2.0) and it DOESNT WORK!!, windows prompts a message saying it couldnt install drivers and nothing else happens :huh:...I knew that when swaping ports you loosed the configuration but not that it WONT WORK in any other ports?¿?¿?WTF???...have I to unistall drivers and soft just to make it work in other port??...can I install all again to make it work in every port I want it to work??

 

-Rotaries and slider jitter at some points.

 

-Throttle jitters a bit at middle...WTF??, I expected more in this axis.

 

-In the resolution test I see X and Y axis (joysticks ones) are 1024...I have seen x52 pro images in internet where tester says 2048...WTF?¿?¿?

 

-MFD screen flickers when you lower the brightness although is not something too aggresive.

 

-Rudder is perfectly stiff (at least now) but when twisted fully to the right there is a little gap to reach the max...not a huge problem as I can make a bit more force to reach that point but its a bit...meh!...

 

-Mode selection rotari dont have "steps" to change between modes, its like a continuous spining wheel at mode 2 position so its hard to set the wheel at the correct point manually :huh:

 

-Mouse is working surprisingly well, I can move the pointer in cockpit quite well although it might be hard to use with track ir...

 

-Detents are HORRIBLE...I need to get rid of them...but warranty :cry:

 

 

Also, despite the stick moves quite smooth now, I would like to lubricate it a bit...I have some sewing machine lubricant and Im thinking to use it, just half of a drop in to the shaft under the springs...I dont think there could be any problem right??

 

 

Thanks guys!!

[Sokol1_br]

-In the resolution test I see X and Y axis (joysticks ones) are 1024...I have seen x52 pro images in internet where tester says 2048...WTF?¿?¿?

 

This is correct - assuming that you buy X-52 PRO.

 

X-52 "vanila" was 2048 (12 bits)

X-52 PRO is 1024 (10 bits) and use 2 HALL sensor in each (X, Y) axis.

 

photoupload

 

In "vanila" the 12 bits don't solve the non linearity issue.

In PRO the 2 HALL per axis improve the linearity issue a bit,

but seems this reduce the resolution by half.

 

Typical X-52 Joytester2:

 

 

For lubricate use only silicone based grease.

Edited February 4, 2016 by Sokol1_br

[HiJack]

Don't ever put anything oily on the parts! You kill will kill it! Use clear silicone!

 

http://www.amazon.com/Tri-Flow-TF23004-Clear-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000C15MUU

[HiJack]

Also remember the stick is new now and have some "grades" on the movement. Start every day off with moving the stick to all outer corners GENTLY!! Make 10 complete rounds each day and you will not need the lubrication in a long long time.

[Ala12Rv-watermanpc]

This is correct - assuming that you buy X-52 PRO.

 

X-52 "vanila" was 2048 (12 bits)

X-52 PRO is 1024 (10 bits) and use 2 HALL sensor in each (X, Y) axis.

 

photoupload

 

In "vanila" the 12 bits don't solve the non linearity issue.

In PRO the 2 HALL per axis improve the linearity issue a bit,

but seems this reduce the resolution by half.

 

For lubricate use only silicone base grease.

 

 

Many thanks dude!!:thumbup:, I didnt know that, so everything is correct.

 

Anyway, the stick is WAY more precise and has ZERO jitter compared to my T Flight X...now all control surfaces in the planes move incredible smooth and accurately so I guess its better to have dual sensors 1024 than a single one in 2048...

 

Also remember the stick is new now and have some "grades" on the movement. Start every day off with moving the stick to all outer corners GENTLY!! Make 10 complete rounds each day and you will not need the lubrication in a long long time.

 

 

Well, the stick now is quite soft and smooth but I dont want it to become sticky but if you think I should use it as its now I will do it :thumbup:...about the oil, well, as I said its an oil for sewing machines and as the shaft is metal I dont think there should be any problem right?? it would be just and incredible small amount of it in the upper part of the shaft...in the x55 for example it looks like the shaft is plastic but not in the x52 pro so...another thing Im not sure about silicone is that its more thicker and so more dirty along the time right??

 

But as you advice me, I wont use any lubricant right now...:thumbup:

 

Btw, exactly how the hell can I move the hand rest??:D and where is the calibration in this joy?? is not in the control panel...Y axis is not perfectly calibrated, its centered well but maximum movement dont perfectly match the limit of the test panel...

Edited February 4, 2016 by watermanpc

[HiJack]

Well if your lubricant is oil based it can damage the plastic parts, and there are a few parts of plastic in contact with the iron parts. Just use it as it is and it will gradually be better and better :thumbup:

 

EDIT: The plastic parts may be PVC type and will not be damaged by your oil but to be safe you should use silicone based lubricants.

Edited February 4, 2016 by HiJack

[Socket7]

With regards to lubing up your stick...:music_whistling:

 

When I first investigated my CH pedals, I held hope I could make them smoother with some lube, and did a bit of research on what's best for plastics.

 

Based on opinions expressed around here, I ended up buying a small container of PAO grease. (Synthetic Polyolefin grease/lube) It's made by M-kote, product# EM-30L NLGI#1

 

Its specifically designed for plastics so it won't rot anything out, and because it is a thick grease, it will stay where you put it, unlike oil. I've gooped the stuff all over the plastic bits in my CH pedals, and well over a year later it hasn't harmed anything at all. :thumbup:

[Ala12Rv-watermanpc]

Ok, thanks for the advices guys!!..right now I think Im gonna stay as it is...if I find some stickness problem then I will think about lubricating...

 

Im ejoying the joy a lot!!!...I didnt expect how good the stick is :smilewink:, I mean X, Y and rudder axes are soooooo smooth and accurate...hope it last a lot that way. Right now I have ZERO dead zone and its really stiff but soft at the same time...POVs are just AMAZING!!buttons are great!!

 

Also, I have just removed the detents!!...why wait any more??:D...it taked less than 5 minutes and it was due to the damn screws :D...incredible easy and effective. The unit reasemble was smooth as butter...now its just heaven how smooth the throttle moves (despite it has surprisingly a bit of jitter :huh:)

 

 

The worst thing by now is jittering in rotaries and slider (and also in throttle as I said) which is not huge but its there...damn!! this hotas could be sooooooooo good if they could fix jittering :cry:

[Sokol1_br]

What will be easy if they use 0,99$ pot instead 0,09$ one in this axis... :)

Edited February 5, 2016 by Sokol1_br