New Hall Sensor kits

[Sokol1_br]

Sokol1_br:

 

DOes the TUSBA bypass the TQS TM board? And is it compatable with Miles magnetic sensor assembly??

 

TQS internal PCB is only a diode matrix for manage buttons/HAT's press - avoid "ghost" buttons when some buttons is simultaneous pressed - is a passive component (do nothing without be plugged in some joystick controller) and will continue in use when TQS is plugged in TUSBA.

 

MILES HALL Sensor just replace the original potentiometer and work in same way, as voltage divider, so will be compatible with any joystick board (what TUSBA is) that use analog sensor (potentiometer, HALL sensor, magneto resistance...).

 

In short, yes MILES HALL sensor is compatible with TUSBA. :thumbup:

Edited July 21, 2016 by Sokol1_br

[CyStryker]

I was curious regarding availability of not only parts for the COUGAR but the availability of the Cougars. Used ones which have no declared problems are going for well over the prices of the new Warthogs!

 

I hope someone like Miles, or others ... come up with replacement internal PCB for the Cougar TQS.

 

Miles.... I just ordered the 1 mm solder for the Coldheat unit. You were right the solder I bought several days ago was to thick for the Coldheat and it had silver in it....... not to be used by the Coldheat.

 

Roland

Edited July 22, 2016 by CyStryker

[Sokol1_br]

I hope someone like Miles, or others ... come up with replacement internal PCB for the Cougar TQS.

 

Replace the PCB inside Cougar TQS only add unnecessary complication/work.

 

- If remove that PCB will be need rewire all buttons/HATS/pots for new USB controller.

 

- As the new PCB need used shift register circuit or diode matrix require wiring according - tedious and length work.

 

- If instead this just plug the existing PCB (diode matrix, passive component) to new USB controller take only one cable - similar to TUSBA, but done internally:

 

upload an image

Edited October 3, 2020 by Sokol1_br

[AV8R]

Works perfectly first shot. Just use common sense when positioning the magnetic core to the solid state sensor IC. That is to say, apply symmetry w/r/t threottle throw and sensor to magnet alignment.

 

This mod is simple and effective, cost affordable for most, easy to medium-easy to build, two tools (allen wrench and phillips screw driver, 1/2-1 hour assembly time. Easy paypal billing and fast shipping. Easy and accessible seller and inventor. No permenant modification to the TQS. Replaces tqs original z-axis analog potentiometer prone to spikes and failure with solid state linear sensor with virtually no wear out parts. Compatible with Realsimulator TUSBA-R2.

 

 

 

 

Gets the AV8R seal of approval. I bought two, one to use and a spare.

 

[MilesD]

Possible throttle board incompatibility

 

I have had a few customers that have had issues with windows not reading the hall sensor. In doing some research into this it appears there is 2 boards for the cougar throttle a 3.8 volt and 5 volt version. The 5 volt appears to be the newer one. While I have been unable to confirm it yet it looks like this may be the problem. Drahkken and USMC if you can check your boards with the pictures below and let me know which one you have that would be great.

Before anyone else orders the kits I would check to make sure you have the newer board.

 

 

This looks to be the old board that may not work. The posted did a mod and it worked for him.

 

 

This one works(pic from AV8R)

 

 

Back of one that works, no resistor

Edited August 3, 2016 by MilesD

[Drahkken]

I can confirm that my TQS is 5v at the throttle pot and has the indicated resistor. I'm loathe to break traces unless this is a guaranteed fix because, although I have a limited knowledge of basic circuits, I don't see how the Hall-Effect sensor could get power if the indicated trace is broken. Am I missing something? If all it takes is a break as indicated, I can be convinced to try it if someone with more knowledge says it makes sense.

[MilesD]

Drahkken,

You are right, it would not work. That picture was to just show the old board. The mod is shown here

http://www.bmsforum.org/forum/showthread.php?24707-Cougar-Throttle-Hall-Effect-Potentiometer-Cubpilot-Reincarnated!&highlight=cub+pilot

 

but I don't know if would work or not. I do find it interesting that you are having problems and have the old board. I am still waiting to hear from someone else who had the same problem. Can you check the voltage before and after the resistor? The pinout appears to be the same.

Edited August 3, 2016 by MilesD

[MilesD]

Drakken,

If you could check both end of the wiring, it should look like this.

http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=160613&page=5

[Sokol1_br]

What drop the voltage from 5v to 3,8v in old board is the resistor in middle of trail coming for throttle axis pot connector + pin.

 

Be cut the trail the guy isolate the resistor from the pot, notice that for supply 5v (what come from Cougar joystick main board) direct for pot after do the cut he use a "jump" or wire.

 

uploading pictures

 

If after do the cut, for some reason one want go back to use Thrustmaster "stellar" potentiometer, is just matter to expose a bit of trail (removing the varnish) and sold a small length of wire above. Similar to this PCB repair:

 

http://music-electronics-forum.com/attachments/30323d1409696184-pcb-ps-trace-repair-1.jpg

 

To do this MOD e to revert, solder tool and solder skill is need. :)

Edited October 3, 2020 by Sokol1_br

[AV8R]

I figured Solkol1 would beat me to this with a simple rerouted trace to provide the 4.5-6.0vdc the Hall Sensor needs. He's on top of these things.

 

What I would do differently is instead of cutting the trace on the TM pcb, is to change Miles' pig tail cable from being 3 wire to 2 wire (leaving the power pin unconnected). Then use a jumper wire from 5v (like Solkol1 did) to connect to the 3rd power wire on Miles' pig tail cable. Does the same as Solkol1's idea, just wired differently and doesn't require a pcb trace cut.

 

The other option is to put a mini 3.8 to 5.0 vdc DC-DC step up converter on Miles PCB or piggy back on the TM PCB. They can be easily found for around a buck (plus S&H).

 

Edited August 3, 2016 by AV8R

[Drahkken]

OK, wiring on your custom PCB seems to be OK. At least I'm getting continuity on all pins as expected...

 

Original Board voltages are as follows:

Without break at the Throttle Pot: 5.09v

Without break, before R1: 5.09v

Without break, after R1: 5.09v

R1 Ohm: 6.8k

 

Soo... I'm confused... Shouldn't that change the voltage or do I have a short? Am I doing something wrong? I'm not much of an Electronics guy, but I've been trying to learn lately...

 

If I can figure out how to host pictures, I'll try to upload images of my setup...

[MilesD]

Drahkken.

I am sorry things are not working out. Your right, it does not make sense to me either. I would be surprised if it was the sensor but I am going to send you out another one before you spend to much time on it. If you want to test the sensor independently of the throttle and have access to 5 volts you could test the sensor only hooked up to a external power source and the Vout (signal) pin hooked up to your meter. Don't worry about damaging the sensor if you get it wrong, I have more. On a positive side the best way to learn is when things don't work.

Miles

[Drahkken]

Can do. What's the pinout for testing?

[MilesD]

Drahkken,

 

Red = 5 volts

Yellow = Ground

Black= Output (test leads between black and yellow wires should vary voltage when magnetic field changes)

 

Good luck

Miles

[Sokol1_br]

Think this will don't help, but from old NN_APACHE topic in Check-six, installing HALL sensor in TQS.

 

image sharing sites

 

He cut the trail due the 6.8K resistor liming the current bellow the need by HALL, but add a 220 OHMS resistor as jumper instead a wire. Dont know why... Perhaps the HALL sensor used need only 4/4.5v...and not 5v... What is not the case of Miles HALL sensor, already used in 5v be many users.

Edited October 3, 2020 by Sokol1_br

[Drahkken]

OK, saw no voltage change when magnet applied on my lab powersupply. Either the sensor or Cap is bad. Cap is showing .01nF. Don't think that's right for a 104? My reference shows should be .1uF. I'm guessing that's the problem?

[MilesD]

I would clip the cap and try it, Its not really required. I just made up some more sensors and I will get one out to you in the morning.

Sorry for the inconvenience.

Miles

[viper47]

Hi Miles,

which softwaretool are you using in your calibration video ?

[Sokol1_br]

DView - download in "Other utilities".

 

http://www.derekspearedesigns.com/technical-guide.html

[viper47]

DView - download in "Other utilities".

 

http://www.derekspearedesigns.com/technical-guide.html

 

THX :thumbup:

[MilesD]

Hi Miles,

which softwaretool are you using in your calibration video ?

 

DIView also, per Sokol recommendation.

Edited August 7, 2016 by MilesD

[Drahkken]

New sensor works! Had to recalibrate my throttle range since I couldn't quite get to 0, but I'm THRILLED with the result. Thanks Miles for an excellent solution to a long-time need!

[viper47]

I know this is not the best video but I wanted to get something out there quick. My son is going to help me make a better video in the future.

 

you tube link

 

 

Miles

Hi Miles,

i got your Throttle Mod via a group by initiated by Nik.

Think i have installed it correctly, but there is no response from the Z axis after installing the Sensor.

After replacing the original pot i get a normal response.

 

What´wrong ?

[viper47]

Figured it out....

seems i have one of the old Board´s which have trouble with the mod.

Fortunally i have a spare cougar which has a newer board without the resistor. I changed the Boards, and now the Axxis is recognized at least. Now i have to do the calibration work.... tbc.....

Edited August 13, 2016 by viper47
typo

[AV8R]

The 220ohm shunt is a current limiter that only reduces the voltage by 1% (down to 4.95v) which leaves plenty of margin for the Hall Sensor which is fine at 4.50v.

 

I actually prefer the shut resistor over the shunt wire method because worse case, if all the 5 pots wipers are at 0 ohms position on the TQS, it can potentially draw too heavily on the 5v source from the Cougar stick.

 

Which begs the question why TM removed the R1 6.7Kohm limiting resistor on the newer TQS PCBs. Only TM engineers know for sure, but I'm guessing they were looking for a way to raise the voltage to all the pots from 3.8 to 5.0 volts (and effectively 12mA more current). Probably to reduces spiking and noise sensitivity. The down side is the worst case scenario I mentioned that is statistically unlikely and probably not permanently damaging. A simple workaround with minimal risk.

 

Which is why you could get away with using the wire shunt instead of the 220 ohm resistor shunt. But again, the resistor shunt is better fire insurance.

 

 

Think this will don't help, but from old NN_APACHE topic in Check-six, installing HALL sensor in TQS.

 

image sharing sites

 

He cut the trail due the 6.8K resistor liming the current bellow the need by HALL, but add a 220 OHMS resistor as jumper instead a wire. Dont know why... Perhaps the HALL sensor used need only 4/4.5v...and not 5v... What is not the case of Miles HALL sensor, already used in 5v be many users.

Edited August 15, 2016 by AV8R