BRD Type N stick.

[SinusoidDelta]

Most planes are made with pop rivets. This only increases the authenticity. :-D

 

Touché. Although aircraft manufacturers usually have an aversion to using blind rivets on structural components due to durability concerns but that's mostly irrelevant here.

[FeistyLemur]

Tm 65536 (16 bits) is marketing, the real is probable 14/15 bits - already big resolutions.

 

Considering a 50 degrees gimbal movement this 2048 means minimum increments of ~0.02 degrees.

65526 will be ~0.0007 degrees, who is able to make this movement with hands or foots?

 

People around swear that ~0.25 degrees increments of 8 bits (256) used in CH sticks is sufficient. Someone even say that CH allow he better control than Warthog, has both. :D

 

Hmm, that's interesting. I never really considered the mathematics of movement per degree.

 

I was just reading a page about the Komaroff rams sensors and it indicates they are 8192 digits of resolution, translating to about 0.022 per step, so it would make sense for the stick to have about that much resolution over it's movement range as well.

 

In any case it's incredibly precise.

Edited January 19, 2017 by FeistyLemur

[rrohde]

People around swear that ~0.25 degrees increments of 8 bits (256) used in CH sticks is sufficient. Someone even say that CH allow he better control than Warthog, has both. :D

 

I used to have the CH Pro stuff (Pro Throttle and Fighterstick) and I don't miss them when it comes to fine granularity of my inputs now... so yeah... different strokes for different blokes. :)

[FeistyLemur]

I had a CH fighterstick and pro throttle back in the days when USB didn't exist and it was on gameport. I know I sure thought they were something else back in those days. That was my big upgrade from the 2 button original CH flightstick at the time. I played a lot of fleet defender and F15 strike eagle 3 with those old sticks.

[*Rage*]

I haven't tried VKB cam gimbal with an extention. Even if I did it would no longer be relevant, cause they are about to start producing their Gunfighter with a new revised gimbal.

But if had to compare my VKB Mamba and BRD floor mounted gimbal (with TM Warthog grip), I'd wanna note that BRD has a much more solid feel to it (makes sense looking at the size of it :D). Produces awesome smooth and juicy tension. Makes you wanna grab and move it in circles.

Mamba sure cannot provide such enjoyable tactile feel. It's pros being software that allows for a high degree of setting flexibility and small size.

However, lately, I found myself using Mamba most of the time because it's easier to take off the shelf and start playing.

 

Seeing the mechanism in motion is quite impressive. Everything is huge, durable and solidly assembled. The double cams are really nice and smooth, and everything looks like it's going to last a long long time.

 

I really like the configurability of the cams. I've settled on using the soft springs on the highest mount point on the cam. This provides an increasing resistance curve as you move the stick. It's very soft in the center and as you approach the edges the tension grows. I like this a lot, because it lets you develop a muscle memory for where the stick belongs when maneuvering the aircraft.

 

The one thing that did worry me at first is the controller it comes with has 2048 positions, which does not seem like much compared to the 65536 position resolution the WH has. Or even the 4096 positions of the MFG crosswinds. But it feels more precise even at 2048 positions than the WH does in game. Of course modification is completely possible if you're so inclined and wish to put different electronics in. The most important part is the mechanics are incredible, and great for anyone who might be interested in modding, because it's a very straightforward design with tons of room to work with. I have seen people criticize the WH as having a ridiculous resolution that the mechanics of the stick can in no way even make use of though. And I have definitely not felt that there are any shortcomings in precision with the controller in the BRD using it so far.

 

One small downside I have found is it does not cope with being unplugged and plugged back into the computer without requiring a re-calibration. Though I would consider that minor as most people will probably leave it plugged in.

 

Ive been in correspondence with Baur about the BRD-N. I have a speedmaster flight seat for my flying rig which means I sit quiet a bit lower than an office chair. That would limit the floor to joystick attachement height to only 45-50cm ie a relatively short extension with what looks like quite a beefy mechanism. Would that be too short a lever arm in your experience to maintain a very soft centering/resistance?

 

Also how is it configured in DCS? Does it appear as a WH stick? How difficult is it recalibrating given the software is in russian?

[vitabutch]

Ive been in correspondence with Baur about the BRD-N. I have a speedmaster flight seat for my flying rig which means I sit quiet a bit lower than an office chair. That would limit the floor to joystick attachement height to only 45-50cm ie a relatively short extension with what looks like quite a beefy mechanism. Would that be too short a lever arm in your experience to maintain a very soft centering/resistance?

 

Also how is it configured in DCS? Does it appear as a WH stick? How difficult is it recalibrating given the software is in russian?

 

Here you can find the box dimensions. http://avia-sim.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=829

 

Shorter stick will not be a prblem at all, you will need just to use less springs in the cam load. However, take a look on another possible problem. BRD-N is a WW2 type floor stick for the pilot seating upright with the straight stick. If your racing seat is inclined you will have problems with the vertical straight stick because of its mounting position but not the length. Curved stick would make this problem solved, but Baur said its not in his roadmap. So you will need to bend it yourself or make a new one from scratch.

 

Cheers, V

[FeistyLemur]

Ive been in correspondence with Baur about the BRD-N. I have a speedmaster flight seat for my flying rig which means I sit quiet a bit lower than an office chair. That would limit the floor to joystick attachement height to only 45-50cm ie a relatively short extension with what looks like quite a beefy mechanism. Would that be too short a lever arm in your experience to maintain a very soft centering/resistance?

 

Also how is it configured in DCS? Does it appear as a WH stick? How difficult is it recalibrating given the software is in russian?

 

Well, I've been using the windows calibration tool with no issues (other than having to calibrate any time I unplug the USB connection) so no worries really on using the Russian language software. Roman sets it up for you and it comes ready to use if you're international. From what I read in the forum, the Russian software allows complete control of the behavior of the controller as well as calibration, but I haven't even delved into it because the windows calibration has worked fine for me. As it's a new device, you have to re-do all your binds for the modules in DCS but it shows up like any other directx joystick. There probably is an easier way to go about that by editing the config files for DCS and doing a find / replace for the stick name, but I just rebound it manually. All the buttons work 100% so no issues there.

 

The stick height on mine is 55cm and I really cannot foresee any issue with a shorter arm. There small springs are super super light when used on the lowest cam setting. So light you could comfortably sit and hold the stick in place indefinitely with your pinky at full deflection. Even moving the mount post around without the pipe attached was easy on that setting. But do not worry if you want more tension, the extra strings included can make the tension extremely strong. You can even go with the light and strong springs on the cam at the same time for really strong tension.

 

What was said about the curved stick is valid point to consider. I would really like to get a curved pipe bent for mine, and I am sitting full upright. At 55CM It's fine for fixed wing flight because you never really nose the stick forward that far. But for choppers that huge throw means you really have to reach forward to get full deflection. If you have a local machine shop it would be trivial to get them to chop and bend up a new pipe for you, drill and tap the holes necessary to mount it and re mount the grip adapter.

 

My advice on stick length is make sure to get the handle up above leg height when measuring, because it's a lot of throw, and when you pull back on the stick, if it's too low your leg will be in the way. Bear in mind, there is a small amount of adjustment of the stick height as the mounting point on the base is a slot. so you can move it up and down a couple inches as well there. And you can always shim the height of the stick with the thickness of the base you screw it down to. Consider the height of your rudder pedals as well. If you have one, just use a meter stick and pretend it's the handle and experiment a bit with your feet on the rudder pedals to figure out comfortable positioning and estimate freedom of movement before deciding on a height. I say this because the crosswinds are fairly high and require a certain seat height to be comfortable, so in my situation at least optimal seat height was limited by that. 45cm will decrease the throw required a fair bit over my set up.

Edited January 19, 2017 by FeistyLemur

[The LT]

My signature says it all. :-) Proud user since 2013. :)

[*Rage*]

 

Thanks for the feedback! Above is my current rig. The curve I have now is not dramatic and so I hope with a similar extension length the throw will be manageable.

 

Anything else im missing (decent rudder pedals i know)?

[Fri13]

Tm 65536 (16 bits) is marketing, the real is probable 14/15 bits - already big resolutions.

 

Considering a 50 degrees gimbal movement this 2048 means minimum increments of ~0.02 degrees.

65526 will be ~0.0007 degrees, who is able to make this movement with hands or foots?

 

People around swear that ~0.25 degrees increments of 8 bits (256) used in CH sticks is sufficient. Someone even say that CH allow he better control than Warthog, has both. :D

 

Even better would be not just list the degree per increment and add a value of the stick head travel in millimeters per increment.

 

As of course the degrees makes things easier to consider regardless of the stick lengths, but for default stick lengths the travel difference tells already a lot, like does a stick top part move a 1mm per increment or 0.05mm per increment (those values pulled from thin air for the argument reason).

 

Then it would be as easy to calculate the travel difference by multiplying extension to the travel increment in mm. Like if stick is extended 2x, then the travel increment at stick head is 2x as well for same degree.

[vitabutch]

Too much of the weird science :) BRD N is a cool stuff. No way to compare with plastic toys.

[RabidRider]

I really like the BRD-N; the overall quality of Bauer's products, but I think I'll hold off and wait for what hegykc comes up with.

 

hegykc said he's working on his own FFB solution and him being very familiar with Bauer's work (dampeners, cam's, spring mechanism), I'm sure his products will be top notch! Also the ability to switch out grips easily is a plus. I do hope he gives the option of a curved extension for those who prefer to fly heli's.

 

All good things come to those who wait :)

 

To OP, is the grip angle adjustable, or does it come installed that way?

Edited January 20, 2017 by RabidRider

[FeistyLemur]

 

Thanks for the feedback! Above is my current rig. The curve I have now is not dramatic and so I hope with a similar extension length the throw will be manageable.

 

Anything else im missing (decent rudder pedals i know)?

 

I really like that cutout seat and chair rig, is that custom built or can it be bought?

[FeistyLemur]

I really like the BRD-N; the overall quality of Bauer's products, but I think I'll hold off and wait for what hegykc comes up with.

 

hegykc said he's working on his own FFB solution and him being very familiar with Bauer's work (dampeners, cam's, spring mechanism), I'm sure his products will be top notch! Also the ability to switch out grips easily is a plus. I do hope he gives the option of a curved extension for those who prefer to fly heli's.

 

All good things come to those who wait :)

 

To OP, is the grip angle adjustable, or does it come installed that way?

 

The grip can be angled any way you like. The cable that plugs in to the bottom of the grip rotates freely and sits in a slot in the adapter. So you just put it where you want it and tighten it down. Pretty much the same as using a WH extension.

 

He does not provide an option for a curved extension, unfortunately, you have to get one made up if you want one. But it would not be too much trouble to get one made from a local metal working shop if you so desire.

 

Conceivably, you could get someone with a pipe bender to just bend the pipe it comes with even, as it's fully removable and the cable comes out. But it has a finish on it that I think is some kind of plastic wrap which would be damaged by a pipe bender. Better to get another one bent up then you can even swap back and forth if you want to use the straight pipe for fixed wing and pop the curved one on for choppers. He could maybe sell you a second coupler for your grip if you wanted to do that. Though it would be a bit of work to change with the cable that comes with it as it has to be unplugged right from the main controller. You could easily rig up a second coupling connector to make the whole pipe quick detach if you wanted though.

Edited January 20, 2017 by FeistyLemur

[*Rage*]

I really like that cutout seat and chair rig, is that custom built or can it be bought?

 

https://speedmasterseats.de/

 

Although it appears the flight seat has been discontinued :(

[RabidRider]

@ FeistyLemur

 

Good advice, thanks!