Hornet UFC (potentially)

[obious]

Were you able to get the HDG/CRS select uploaded? I didn't see it on the Shapeways page. That would be super helpful for the setup I'm about to attempt. Nice work!

 

+1 on that, would be awesome to get my paws on them :)

[Brun]

Better (very) late than never, heading panel is now available!

 

https://www.shapeways.com/product/5JFSJH3FT/fa-18-headingpanel?optionId=122336315&li=marketplace

 

It fits by simply pushing on to the bottom of the HUD panel. Should be secure enough without any extra hardware.

[obious]

Better (very) late than never, heading panel is now available!

 

https://www.shapeways.com/product/5JFSJH3FT/fa-18-headingpanel?optionId=122336315&li=marketplace

 

It fits by simply pushing on to the bottom of the HUD panel. Should be secure enough without any extra hardware.

 

Thanks a lot Brun! Should be able to complete my setup rather nicely with this

[longuich]

Do yoh have the obj files available as well ? Or just the parts via shapewaya?

 

 

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[Brun]

Do yoh have the obj files available as well ? Or just the parts via shapewaya?

Sure. Download it here...

 

FA-18_headingPanel.obj

[longuich]

Sure. Download it here...

 

 

 

FA-18_headingPanel.obj

 

 

 

Thanks mate. Much appreciated.

 

 

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[Ketsefletser]

Let me join this discussion with my own DIY project :-) enjoying the posts, UFC F18 is a great thing to build!

 

 

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[longuich]

Right. Nice. So which kind of displays did you use in your ufc version ?

 

 

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[Ketsefletser]

Displays are fake...:-) VR and showoff only...

 

 

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[wereferret]

My Shapeways order arrived!

 

Also note Brun uploaded the bearing/course panel on shapeways too and will follow this in a few days in the mail!

 

By the way this is a brilliant design, everything slots together really well.

 

Edited September 28, 2019 by wereferret

[wereferret]

So this is my first electronics project so forgive my ignorance of the basics. I'm ordering the components and getting a soldering iron. What type/gauge of wire and connectors should I be getting?

Edited September 28, 2019 by wereferret

[longuich]

There is a fair list in the first post of yhis thread. Wire.. any type of low voltage wire will do. Any electronics store sells it per ft or meter or roll. You could get an arduino. I use teensy for their busses and HID profiles.

 

 

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[Phantom_Mark]

My Shapeways order arrived!

 

Also note Brun uploaded the bearing/course panel on shapeways too and will follow this in a few days in the mail!

 

By the way this is a brilliant design, everything slots together really well.

 

How much did shapeways charge out of interest please ? :)

[wereferret]

How much did shapeways charge out of interest please ? :)

 

$68.55 for the CRS Panel. My only concern is Brun didnt build it to necessarily integrate with a 3rd Cougar MFD, which I plan to do. So when I get it I will need to see if I can dremel it out to accommodate another cougar.

[flx54]

I got my UFC now printed by a friend and investigating hardware (cheaper) options here in Europe.

AFAIK a 14-segment LED will do fine. I plan to use 10mm digit height, 4 up to 8 digit tubes. Of course they are from well known Chinese sources. Problem is, that they don't supply the backpack/driver board to interface it i2c wise, which would be way too much wiring/soldering. Any ideas which 14-segment displays I could use with ease? I saw the 4 digit Adafruit solution but the digits seem too large for the UFC...

 

Have a great Weekend!

 

flx54

[longuich]

16k33 is the easiest i2c solution if you can find displays that will work with them. I’m having trouble finding anything sensible. The 4 digit modules from ada and ebay CN sellers are far too big for the brun model.

 

 

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[flx54]

16k33 is the easiest i2c solution if you can find displays that will work with them. I’m having trouble finding anything sensible. The 4 digit modules from ada and ebay CN sellers are far too big for the brun model.

 

 

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Exactly my point. The standard HT16K33 backpack comes also as a kit with too high displays. But can I "simply" attach smaller ones to this board? Pin layout should be the same I guess.

 

best regards

[longuich]

You can if you get a generic 16k33 module that will allow you to solder anything to it. The most important part is to get the common anode or cathode part correct.

 

 

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[flx54]

THX for that. I will try to do that. What fits DCS BIOS better? Common Anode or Cathode? Remembering, that Mobiflight and another civil sim were only compatible with one sort of...;)

[FSFIan]

Since DCS-BIOS does not offer any code snippets specific to a certain type of display, there is no display that fits DCS-BIOS better than another one.

 

To use a display with DCS-BIOS, you first have to learn to use the display without DCS-BIOS, i.e. find an Arduino library that can drive the display and understand its example sketch.

 

You will then add the necessary code to initialize your display to your DCS-BIOS sketch and grab a generic "StringBuffer" code snippet from the DCS-BIOS reference documentation. You need to "fill in the blanks" in that code snippet by adding a few lines that take the value provided by DCS-BIOS in the "newValue" function parameter and put it onto your display.

 

The vast majority of display libraries will work with DCS-BIOS, the exception is when the library is so badly written that it blocks interrupts for an extended period of time (we had issues with a library for 7-segment displays once that had very naively written timer code for PWM dimming).

[flx54]

Wonderful, this is how it should be. Winter is coming, and I will be experimenting at home. Cool!

And I will give this one a shot. See how far I get and which 14-segment LEDs I can solder to it. it´s been made for 2 sets of 2 digits, probably its possible to connect more than that?!:

 

https://www.adafruit.com/product/1910

 

Thank you for your inputs and many thanks to Ian for DCS BIOS! :thumbup:

Edited November 2, 2019 by flx54

[Bankler]

Hi Brun!

 

Have you found any alternative square buttons? I'm looking for something to replace the PS1023ABLK buttons with, since I don't like how much pressure the need to activate and that there's no distinct feedback when you click them.

[Brun]

Have you found any alternative square buttons? I'm looking for something to replace the PS1023ABLK buttons with, since I don't like how much pressure the need to activate and that there's no distinct feedback when you click them.

Funny you should ask this now, I recently decided I couldn't put up with the crappy switches anymore and - rather than risk pot luck - went with the ridiculously expensive option as discovered by @Vikhrs...

 

https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/nkk-switches/kb15skw01-a/?qs=EIJ16CYJdOv2DMeOYQw7Ig==&countrycode=US&currencycode=USD

 

Worse was to follow cos it turns out they don't react well to heat and I actually killed two of them with my cack-handed soldering. Unfortunately (or not, for yuour wallet) it looks like they're out of stock at the moment, and also marked as EoL. Maybe NKK can tell you if there's a replacement?

 

In other news, I have another Shapeways thing on the way. Should hopefully arive Tuesday...

[NightShiftNinja]

@Brun @Bankler I have an idea that i think would work quite well for high quality "buttons" I was thinking of using cherry mx style keyboard switches. These can be had for $20 for 60 keys, there are multiple different types which would allow for people to pick the feel they would like, and there are companies out there that make custom printed keycaps which would allow for proper labeling, as well as led back lighting.

 

This would require a small modification to the original design and unfortunately I am much more of a "builder" than a "designer" so that project has stalled out because of my inability to modify the 3d model.

 

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[Ketsefletser]

I bought these in chine for 1€ each incl. shipping. They are fine...

 

 

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