Triggerhappy69 Posted May 4, 2009 Author Posted May 4, 2009 LOL I couldn't agree more with you more trigger, Norway is soo beautiful up north, with the emerald fjords and the dramatic landscape. (I loved to fly the EF2000 sim buzzing around in the fjords) and if it wasn't for the cold water and the "klegg" (a cross between a bloodsucking fly and a big bee) i wouldn't mind living there myself... Aaaargh..! I HATE those little things.. But the mosquitoes up on the "vidda" are even worse.. I swear they are so big they get transported in on trucks. And they come in thousands at a time... :cry: The advice on a layer of clear cote over the dry transfers came out just perfect.! Check it out.. .. and I have started cutting the holes for the gauges... It's starting to look like something out of an aircraft now..:pilotfly: I took this picture to see if it resembled the original one..? My temporary Yaw Pedal setup is fixed in place. It's missing the hall effect sencor on top of the main axle. But apart from that it's all done..! I finished the connectors and diode matrix for the FFB Controller PCB tonight.. However I'll junk this whole thing as soon as I get the servo amplifier, and make it work.. The new Yaw Pedal setup will be made from 10mm aluminum and not wood..! Because the 50V FFB motor would simply rip this whole thing apart I'm afraid.. And after seing how well the dry transfer letters on the Cyclic Stick turned out, I repainted the Collective stick to! I made it as far as three letters before I noticed what time it was and decided to post this update and go to bed..! I'm enjoing this more and more as it comes together.. Thank you all for your inputs and ideas... Without your help I would'nt have come this far (without having to undergo serious therapy and even short periods of being committed to an asylum..:helpsmilie:) Good night all.. "But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!" [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
Triggerhappy69 Posted May 4, 2009 Author Posted May 4, 2009 Oh yeah..! I almost forgot... About the video of the Cyclic Stick..? Well....? I have to get some help with it..! I've tried a couple of times making one, but they all stink so bad I did'nt dear put it out there on the net.. These video editing programs are seriously complicated to work out.? .. Glowing Amraam..?! How the H*LL do you manage to make your videos so perfect? I say your multitasking skills must be WAY above average..! I had maybe 20 clips, and completly lost track of where I wanted them to go after 3 seconds. And you moviemaker guys work with maybe..? 100 clips..!? And then you add effects and music..? Respect to you all. I'll never say anything bad about anyones video again (not that I ever have..)! I'll try find someone who has a clue, and post the video ASAP..! 1 "But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!" [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
Kuky Posted May 4, 2009 Posted May 4, 2009 That is some serisouly nice work on the stick and cockpit build... respect PC specs: Windows 11 Home | Asus TUF Gaming B850-Plus WiFi | AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D + LC 360 AIO | MSI RTX 5090 LC 360 AIO | 55" Samsung Odyssey Gen 2 | 64GB PC5-48000 DDR5 | 1TB M2 SSD for OS | 2TB M2 SSD for DCS | NZXT C1000 Gold ATX 3.1 1000W | TM Cougar Throttle, Floor Mounted MongoosT-50 Grip on TM Cougar board, MFG Crosswind, Track IR
CAT_101st Posted May 4, 2009 Posted May 4, 2009 However I'll junk this whole thing as soon as I get the servo amplifier, and make it work.. The new Yaw Pedal setup will be made from 10mm aluminum and not wood..! Because the 50V FFB motor would simply rip this whole thing apart I'm afraid.. You may want to turn that down a bit as you might find your self flying out of your seat with the first bit of turblinc. :crazy: :bye_2: Home built PC Win 10 Pro 64bit, MB ASUS Z170 WS, 6700K, EVGA 1080Ti Hybrid, 32GB DDR4 3200, Thermaltake 120x360 RAD, Custom built A-10C sim pit, TM WARTHOG HOTAS, Cougar MFD's, 3D printed UFC and Saitek rudders. HTC VIVE VR. https://digitalcombatmercenaries.enjin.com/
Triggerhappy69 Posted May 6, 2009 Author Posted May 6, 2009 (edited) Pitbuilding Update - 6th May 2009 - Force Feedback Pedals anyone? And some other stuf That is some serisouly nice work on the stick and cockpit build... respect Thanx mate..! By the way..? Are you in the same squadron as 'ol "Tonka Mate" by any chance? If so, be sure to let him know I said HI! However I'll junk this whole thing as soon as I get the servo amplifier, and make it work.. The new Yaw Pedal setup will be made from 10mm aluminum and not wood..! Because the 50V FFB motor would simply rip this whole thing apart I'm afraid.. You may want to turn that down a bit as you might find your self flying out of your seat with the first bit of turblinc. :crazy: :bye_2: ...and you are sooo right in saying so..!:thumbup: This is the motor and gearbox I'll use for the ULTIMATE FFB Pedals: ... I don't know for sure, but I'm thinking maybe I will not be using it's full potential..? But just imagine the controls (both cyclic and pedals) with much stronger motors for the Force Feedback..? It's a bit over the top, I know that. But for the shear immersion benefits it will give I just have to try..! Did some dry lettering on the Collective stick to: And I replaced all the switches with bigger 15Amp ones. So now it looks more like the real thing. (pics later) The Decsent-Enroute switch with it's ON-OFF-(spring)ON function was hard to find. So I did a little MOD on a standard ON-OFF-ON switch. And it works perfectly.! All you have to do is open the switch. Take the rocker-plate out. and bend one end of it so it looks like this: It used to be symetrical around the center.. The bend on the right side is made by me! The FFB Pedals have been tested in flight! And they work like a charm..!:thumbup: The centering force is adequate for heli-flightsims. Since these have little to no strong centering force in most RL Helicopters? And I dear to say that if it was'nt for me having made my mind up to increase the FFB all over, I would just leave it like this and be real happy to..!:smilewink: As you see here I have used just the standard gearing from the Steering Wheel. Allthough I have attached the main gear to a 20x20mm solid block of aluminum to spread the rotation forces from the axle out to the whole gear. It did'nt seem like just a ring with a set-screw would be able to withstand the forces from the FFB motor. But with this setup there is no problems with it! The Backplate is made out of 1mm Aluminum, and the motormount is ... Well You can see on the picture: (the blue dots are pen marks from when I counted the number of teeth on this gear..) Just bend, drill holes and sit back and enjoy the fruit of your work.. The PCB from the wheel only needs to be connected to USB, Powersupply and the Hall effect sensor.! The Hall Effect Sensor is connected to pins 1,2 and 3 of connector "A" on the PCB. The current from the PCB is 5V, and this works perfect with Honeywell's SS495A Sensors. The magnet can be of any kind rod-magnet. But I prefere using small but strong Neodyme magnets. The axles that hold the gear are rotating in bearings that are countersunk into the 22mm MDF bottomplate. I use the cheapest kind of skateboard bearings with 8mm axles that I have scavenged from an old printer.! And since the pedals only have a 30 degrees rotation, whereas the Steeringwheel had 200 degrees. I couldn't use the original potmeter without gearing that to? But a 30 degrees rotation and a hall effect sensor will give the FFB Controller Card approx the same range in volts.! And it's infinatly more precise and "spike" free..! As I said earlier I have tested this setup out, and can guaranty that it works with calibrating and in the Simulator.. ........ SO why are you still here..? Log on to EBay and get yourself a FFB Wheel to hack..! Don't let me be the only one with FFB Pedals? GO! Ps. I promised to post a movie of the FFB stick and pedals on youtube.. And it is coming..! I just need to get over myself first (or take me out of the movie all together..) Probably by tomorrow night.. Edited May 6, 2009 by Triggerhappy69 "But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!" [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
HitchHikingFlatlander Posted May 6, 2009 Posted May 6, 2009 Brilliant work as usual Trigger! Its guys like you that inspire guys like me to take on projects for pit building I dont know how many pairs of pants have been ruined by watching your progress..... j/k lol! http://dcs-mercenaries.com/ USA Squad
Oakes Posted May 6, 2009 Posted May 6, 2009 :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: Yikes, I'm in awe...... /Oakes
Triggerhappy69 Posted May 6, 2009 Author Posted May 6, 2009 Pitbuilding Update - 6th May 2009 - You've got to love EBay..! Here are the pics of the Collective box with new toggle switches: EBay is the GREATEST..! I came accross these switches under "russian military toggle switches". And asked if they could send me 100 of them..? Oleg from SOVCOM (the EBay store) kindly replied that they could manage that, so naturally I HAD TO get them.. Thank you Oleg..:thumbup: Now I can start on the dreaded Right Wall Sidepanel with all it's switches.. "But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!" [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
Swetrekki Posted May 6, 2009 Posted May 6, 2009 You MUST be kidding me Trigger, that servo and gear setup will take your foot off and fracture you femur ;) ITS HUUUUUUUGE!!! Letterings look realy nice and straight (which i allways have a problem with) If you have more complicated stuff than letters you can use "Inkjet water transfer film" to make decals. but remember to put some gloss clear cote on first (johnssons floor polish will work) so you get a blank surface for the decal, otherwise it will look slightly silvery when dry due to trapped air under the decal. To bend the decal over a curved surface apply some diluted vinegar to soften up the decal once you put it on, 1.5%-3% is plenty enough, then spray with flat cote when dry. how much did the switches set you back mate, they look really good!
Triggerhappy69 Posted May 7, 2009 Author Posted May 7, 2009 You MUST be kidding me Trigger, that servo and gear setup will take your foot off and fracture you femur ;) ITS HUUUUUUUGE!!! Letterings look realy nice and straight (which i allways have a problem with) If you have more complicated stuff than letters you can use "Inkjet water transfer film" to make decals. but remember to put some gloss clear cote on first (johnssons floor polish will work) so you get a blank surface for the decal, otherwise it will look slightly silvery when dry due to trapped air under the decal. To bend the decal over a curved surface apply some diluted vinegar to soften up the decal once you put it on, 1.5%-3% is plenty enough, then spray with flat cote when dry. how much did the switches set you back mate, they look really good! LMAO.. I KNOW...!:helpsmilie: .. If I only got 5 cents everytime I heard those words uttered in surprise..? ... you're talking about the MOTOR..? Aaaahh.. Yeah it's way oversized.. But it is geared down quite extensivly thank god.. It used to be a door opener, and I can actually fix the Pedal's Main cross bar directly to the last gear as it is (or I hope i can.. because if I'm wrong and you're right........ goodbye foot and hello fractured Femur..?) LoL When buying 100 of them I got the price of 0,75$ a piece pluss shipping (31$ to Norway). And if i remember correct he mentioned having only 100 of them left after I get mine.. "But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!" [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
Cooter Posted May 8, 2009 Posted May 8, 2009 Impressive...most impressive. Want to build me one too?:bounce:
Triggerhappy69 Posted May 12, 2009 Author Posted May 12, 2009 Who is this guy..!?!?! I found this picture amongst my Pitbuilding pictures on Imageshack? Anyone know who it is? Or how he got there?:megalol: "But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!" [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
Triggerhappy69 Posted May 12, 2009 Author Posted May 12, 2009 Pit building update - 13 May 2009 - Tidying up the Cyclic Stick wiring Impressive...most impressive. Want to build me one too?:bounce: LMAO..! I can give you all the help you need to build your own Cyclic, but I will not go through that building prosess again anytime soon.. Phuuh..:helpsmilie: Did som tidying up inside the stick, and added a connector for the plate that holds the POV. And I moved the BU0836A controller to the inside of the Front Pedestal. And painted the buttons white: And next is final testing and a video..! 1 "But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!" [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
Panzertard Posted May 14, 2009 Posted May 14, 2009 Okai, you now stole 3 hours of my DCS:BS flightschedule! I just had to read it all, from your humble beginning back in 2007. Incredible insane - you must be from Flåklypa ... I suspect your uncle is Reodor Felgen? Good luck on your project, mate. I might pop you a PM since I noticed we're countrymen, and equally old and bald - no, no no, this is not an proposal!! I mean, you're flying with those brittons in 504 and all, community guys - and I'm looking for the same kind of likeminded wits ... or lack of, not sure if you're totally sane(?) :p Keep up the good work, Reodor. ;) The mind is like a parachute. It only works when it's open | The important thing is not to stop questioning
HitchHikingFlatlander Posted May 14, 2009 Posted May 14, 2009 Anyone that puts that much work into his pit has to have a few screws loose but thats perfectly fine in my book actually everyone should loosen a few screws just for good measure! Always great to see your progress Trigger Cheers http://dcs-mercenaries.com/ USA Squad
G3 Posted May 22, 2009 Posted May 22, 2009 Thanx mate..! :smilewink: How's life down under these days..? I kinda envy you the reversed winter season right now.. 'Cause it's cold here today..!:cry: live down here is always tops, once again i am loving your work, so you must be enjoying the fruits of your labour, and good luck to you, well done. HitchHikingFlatlander: i agree a few loose screw s is a good thing, too many people with all there fastened are too up tight :)
Triggerhappy69 Posted May 23, 2009 Author Posted May 23, 2009 (edited) Pitbuilding Update - 22 may 2009 - It's never quite good enough..? Well It's getting close to now.. And I can almost taste the sweet taste of having a working HOCAS to play with. But sadly I have had to admitt to myself that the original collective mechanics combined with the forces that work on it from the hydraulics just were'nt up to par.. And a major rebuild had to take place.. I threw the old setup in the bin and started from scrach again. This time taking into consideration that it needed to be a lot stronger and tighter..!;) And this is what my twisted mind produced: As you can see it's now made completly from 10mm thick Aluminum. Mainly because I got a bunch of them for free from a friend of mine (thank you Kai). All the holes that hold a rotating axle have been lined with 0,2mm copper from a plate I bought at the hardware store. I didn't get it for this purpose, but after drilling all the holes by hand I noticed a small gap everywhere. And after cutting and bending the copper around the axles it's nice and tight (I KNOW WHAT YOU ARE THINKING NOW..) LoL The series of holes where the Cylinder rotates (upper part of the mechanics) are there because I needed to find the right angle and distance to the Collective stick. I'll put the correct relative distance on the new drawings. Some more details: And I found some fans that look much more real for the Rear Left Wall: They will be painted white like the real ones are. And the whole front will be covered by aluminum plates to make it resemble the real thing.. So all the screws and unused holes will be hidden.. Matrix for BU0836A Controller Card I'm bored with having to chuck away PCB's that I screw up all the time. So I have found a fool-proof (me being a fool at times) way to make the matrix for Leo Bodnars Joystick cards. It came to me when I found some old cabinets that someone had thrown away when upgrading theyr controller room (probably some oil refinery or something). And they had left a bunch of these: They are two stories high, and the principle is that if I connect a switch between R1 (row 1) and number 1 to 6 (collumn 1-6 through a diode from each) I'll get a matrix with no need to swear myself through another eching seanse..:cry: The next six switches are connectet from R2 and number 7-12 and so on.. Do you get it? First 36 switches are done allready: The matrix for two of the BU0836A cards. A little digression.. I made a complete ass of myself when I fell asleep while soldering wires to one of Leo's cards the other day. And not only did I ruin the card, but I could have burned down the house along with it..!:doh: So I asked Leo Bodnar if I could return the card for him to look at it, and maybe (if possible) fix it for me. The reply came faster than I had ever expected with him saying that he would look at it..! Now that's good service right there.. Thanx Leo.. :thumbup: Edited May 23, 2009 by Triggerhappy69 "But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!" [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
Triggerhappy69 Posted May 23, 2009 Author Posted May 23, 2009 Pitbuilding update - 22 may2009 - CNC and LCD I finally got my hands on a small LCD screen that will be adapted to work as my Shkval monitor. Originaly it came from (another) slave monitor in a car. And I had to really twist my brain to find out where all the cables should go. But now it has been tested, and it works..! More on this later... And the CnC mill is coming along nicely to.. Did some wiring inside it to make it ready for use AND for me installing the onboard BiscuitPC and Touchscreen later.. Another couple of days and I'll have it up and running I hope...:cry: The plan for tomorrow is to finish the drawers that hold the IO Computer, Powersupplies for the switches and LED's, and all the IO-Cards and breakout boards. These will be hidden under the top cover where the HUD is mounted. And will add another 50cm lenght to the Pit. But after I have cut them out I'll have easy access to all connections and have a seperate small monitor/keyboard/mouse for the nr2 Computer. I think this will be the eighth and final module of the pit.. The Module list: 1. Main Front Panel (Gauges, Shkval and ABRIS) 2. Front Left Panel (APU and stuff) 3. Front Right panel (NAV Keypad) 4. Right Horizontal Panel (Autopilot and stuff) 5. Right Vertical Panel (Mains switches, Fire supression and more) 6. Right Rear panel 7. FFB Pedals 8. IO Computer and breakout boards "But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!" [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
PoleCat Posted May 23, 2009 Posted May 23, 2009 Absolute madness.....and I love it! Out http://www.104thphoenix.com/
Swetrekki Posted May 24, 2009 Posted May 24, 2009 that collective stick is looking "quite" sturdy. your gooing to have to try hard to break that one ;) nice work as usual. love to hear mor about the shval monitor!!!
CAT_101st Posted May 25, 2009 Posted May 25, 2009 DAM IT you beat me to the small monater hack. Cant get mine to work. how did you wire the VGA input? need more info on it. and what brand screan is it? Home built PC Win 10 Pro 64bit, MB ASUS Z170 WS, 6700K, EVGA 1080Ti Hybrid, 32GB DDR4 3200, Thermaltake 120x360 RAD, Custom built A-10C sim pit, TM WARTHOG HOTAS, Cougar MFD's, 3D printed UFC and Saitek rudders. HTC VIVE VR. https://digitalcombatmercenaries.enjin.com/
Triggerhappy69 Posted May 31, 2009 Author Posted May 31, 2009 Pitbuilding Update - 31 May 2009 - Video of my HOCAS Well I finally got around to making it..! "But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!" [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
Triggerhappy69 Posted May 31, 2009 Author Posted May 31, 2009 DAM IT you beat me to the small monater hack. Cant get mine to work. how did you wire the VGA input? need more info on it. and what brand screan is it? I'll take some detailed pics tomorrow for you..:thumbup: But didn't you connect the power wires wrong and burn a chip? "But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!" [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
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