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Posted
This is exactly what I've been looking for..!:thumbup:

... how can I get my hands on four of those?

 

Trigger, you're going to end up with your house burnt down. Either from the overloaded wiring, or from the angry torch wielding neighbors who are tired of the brownouts from every time you release the trim button... :music_whistling:

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There's no place like 127.0.0.1

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Posted
Trigger, you're going to end up with your house burnt down. Either from the overloaded wiring, or from the angry torch wielding neighbors who are tired of the brownouts from every time you release the trim button... :music_whistling:

 

You won't probably brownout the neighbourhood but with that kind of power demand it is likely that you are gonna flip your RCD if you use more of those on one power phase because they might draw an enormous reactive current.

Good, fast, cheap. Choose any two.

Come let's eat grandpa!

Use punctuation, save lives!

Posted

You can build in my shop. 3 phase, 1 440v source. 4 hookups for 220 welders. I dont think you can draw that dead. Ill forgive your powerbill as long as it stays here.

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Posted

Quoted from triggerhappy..... [Garage..! GARAGE..! I Live In NORWAY..! I'de be turned into a snowman in about 20 minutes out there.. Bbbbrrr.. (hmmm nice callsign for a northerner BTW..)]

 

 

 

AHHHH! you would turn into me?! AHHHH!

BTW: I am in florida, so my callsign make NO sense. I'm a misnomer, YAY!

Go ahead, Make it idiot proof, someone will just find better idiots...;)

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Pitbuilding Update 14. july 2010 - X and Y Axis force gradiant units installed!

 

newmechanicaltrimforce1z.jpg

 

See, it's chugging along slowly this build prosess..! The Force Gradiant Units for the X and Y axis are connected.

 

newmechanicaltrimforce1q.jpg

 

Imagine the disk brakes fixed to the lower plate, and you have the whole setup. I have auired three 220 Volt AC solenoids that will dissengage the brakes. Just need to do some testing to see how I should mount them.

 

 

newmechanicaltrimforce1r.jpg

 

I know... It's kinda overboard with ballbearings on both the brake plates AND the fixingpoints. But at least It will run smooth this way!

 

newmechanicaltrimforce1f.jpg

 

Some views from below, showing the Cyclic Stick and tyhe Force Gradiant Units.

 

newmechanicaltrimforce1.jpg

 

The X-Axis and its bellcrank.

 

 

newmechanicaltrimforce1.jpg

 

..and the Y-Axis without..

 

newmechanicaltrimforce1.jpg

 

..dunno why this picture got in here? It seems to be another picture of... Aaaaargh.. Why do I even bother writing this?

 

newmechanicaltrimforce1.jpg

 

The Force Gradiant units fixed to the brake plates.

Edited by Triggerhappy69

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

Posted

Pitbuilding Update 14. july 2010 - New Cyclic Stick ready for wiring

 

newmechanicaltrimforce1g.jpg

 

 

 

newmechanicaltrimforce1.jpg

 

 

 

newmechanicaltrimforce1j.jpg

 

 

 

newmechanicaltrimforce1f.jpg

 

 

 

newmechanicaltrimforce1k.jpg

 

 

 

newmechanicaltrimforce1s.jpg

 

 

 

newmechanicaltrimforce1.jpg

 

 

 

newmechanicaltrimforce1.jpg

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

Posted
it's a work of art! amazing

 

Thanx mate.:)

 

Hi Trigger,

 

Awesome work! Really!

 

... but... what will you do if you finished the cockpit?

 

Honestly, I'll probably be so bored with it I will give it away to the flight museum here in Stavanger..

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

Posted (edited)

Honestly, I'll probably be so bored with it I will give it away to the flight museum here in Stavanger..

 

Hahaha :megalol:

 

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

 

The way is the target...

Edited by =STP= Dragon
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Pitbuilding Updtae 22 july 2010 - DIY Force Trim Actuators

 

I wish I had a million somethings to spend on magnetic brakes, like the real helicopters have. Because all this fiddeling with different kinds of solenoids and stuff has left me at the brink of giving up.! But Now I have finally found a solution that really works well. or so it seems..!?:music_whistling:

If uoy check out the video, it should be easy to see what I mean:

 

What the video doesn't show is the Brake calipers place in this setup. So I took this picture to ilustrate:

dscn1127f.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

dscn1125t.jpg

 

 

 

dscn1124b.jpg

 

 

dscn1126.jpg

  • Like 1

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

Posted

Do I have all understood ?

 

you push the button, it closes the electrical circuit, then the motor is on and it turns to move the "rope",

then when the move is enough to activate the brake lever, a piece of something glued on the rope push another contactor to ? ? ?

(re open the circuit and stop the motor ?) ,

(but how does it stay on tension ?)

 

then you unpush your button and the motor is free and the rope goes back due to the effect of springs.

 

nice done.

 

may you confirm or detail in place of my ??? please.

Posted (edited)

looks to me that the button activates the motor which pulls the "rope" the end of the rope has a toggle which hits the microswitch - this "opens" the circuit and turns off the motor.

 

The "rope" then starts to move back under spring tension - this closes the circuit and the motor pulls it back up until the motor is switched off again.

 

Is that about it? Simple and effective.

 

A tip would be to have a spring on the end of the drive belt before the actuator and have the drive belt pull slightly more than is needed to activate the brake. This will isolate the "undulations" that the motor will produce to just the motor and drive belt.

Edited by talisman

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Is it a bird? Is it a plane? No - Its a Stinger - Damn.......

 

My Pit - http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=42253

Posted
Do I have all understood ?

 

you push the button, it closes the electrical circuit, then the motor is on and it turns to move the "rope",

then when the move is enough to activate the brake lever, a piece of something glued on the rope push another contactor to ? ? ?

(re open the circuit and stop the motor ?) ,

(but how does it stay on tension ?)

 

then you unpush your button and the motor is free and the rope goes back due to the effect of springs.

 

nice done.

 

may you confirm or detail in place of my ??? please.

 

looks to me that the button activates the motor which pulls the "rope" the end of the rope has a toggle which hits the microswitch - this "opens" the circuit and turns off the motor.

 

The "rope" then starts to move back under spring tension - this closes the circuit and the motor pulls it back up until the motor is switched off again.

 

Is that about it? Simple and effective.

 

A tip would be to have a spring on the end of the drive belt before the actuator and have the drive belt pull slightly more than is needed to activate the brake. This will isolate the "undulations" that the motor will produce to just the motor and drive belt.

 

 

Well, let me try to elaborate..

 

There are two springs at each end of the timing belt. each with different strenght. The strongest spring is connected to the brake caliper. The other spring is there only to keep the belt tentioned at all times.

 

The switch in my hand turn on and off the power to the motor that pull the belt.

Only that the power has to go through a microswitch that allow power through as long as it is not activated. Or in other words a normally open switch.

 

As I press the switch in my hand, the motor starts turning, tentioning the belt and pulling the "activator" (the piece of plastic i glued on the belt) towards the microswitch.

Now.. When the belt and "activator" passes a point where it has opened the caliper enough to release the trim plates, it will push the microswitch down and cut the power to the motor.

 

Since I want the calipers to re-activate again as fast as possible when the trim button (the one in my hand) is released. I have mounted a fairly strong spring on the calipers pulling on both the belt and the sfirst spring. This will naturally also pull the belt back again, re-opening the power to the motor for a brief moment! (hence the "jerking" you hear as a "tack-tack-tack-tack" sound). But this will have no different effect on the trim system because of the springs on either side..

 

I'll make a mock-up of the whole system when I get home, and take pictures of every step..

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

Posted

F.R.E.A.K. you are!)

 

great idea..

  • Like 1

TM HOTAS WH :joystick:, Saitek Pro Pedals, Track IR 4, 2xJoyWarrier, 1x KeyWarrior, i52500k @4600MHz, ASUS P8Z68-V Pro, NV 670GT, SSD+ WD BC+ WD Raptor, 32HD:pilotfly:[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

Posted

Pitbuilding Update 26 July 2010 - Trim Force Calipers mounting Bracket

 

Taadaaa..! I finally found motivation to sit down and de-assemble the Brake Calipers and mount them all on 6mm threaded rods.. :cry:

 

I've been dreading this job for a while now. Not because it's particulary hard, but simply because it IS NOT..! hehe. And unfortunately I was right in my asumption that it would be a long, and tedious labour!

 

But now it's done!:thumbup:

 

 

dscn1129.jpg

 

The reason why I mounted them like this is allignment...

All the brake disc's are rotating arround the same axis, so they should be pretty much moving in the same axis. And to save myself a lot of measuring, and sweating and swearing, and because I found that with an aluminum bracket on eather side of each caliper would require to much space, I opted for the "all-in-one" solution of using threaded rods.

 

 

dscn1131.jpg

 

This will give me some room to fine adjust the calipers form side to side as long as I get the first outer extreme correct. After that it's just a matter of using the nuts to adjust the other two to theyr correct position before drilling and screwing the other side into place.. Or at least that is what I hope..?

 

dscn1128.jpg

 

In the background you get a glips of a little side-project I have been playing arround with from time to time lately.

I've always been fascinated by hovercrafts, and have secretly had a dream of building a radio controlled one with segmented skirts for myself. Just to see if it was possible for me to do it? And also to get a better understanding of the physics behind how hovercrafts work!

 

dscn1132.jpg

 

This first prototype is made almost exclusively from 3mm sheets of Depron. The motor mount and control surface mount I made from some scrap 8mm plexiglas. And the propellers are hand made from three smaller airplane propellers that I cut the blades from, sanded to the correct angle of attack, and attached to servo heads with six arms (by using these I knew I had a stable platform with the correct angles to start from)

 

predatorf1hovercraft4.jpg

 

... not a bad resemblance from the real thing, considering I only had this picture, and a couple more, to go from?

 

dscn1133d.jpg

 

The thrust propeller without it's cowling.. I haven't gotten arround to making the cowling (or duct) yet, and I'll probably be scrapping this one soon to make a better one anyway..

 

dscn1134.jpg

 

... YES you are quite right..! Making all these segments one by one DID take a long time..! And finding a quick and simple way to attach them did to.!

But now they're all inplace.. AND THEY WORK..!:thumbup:

 

dscn1135i.jpg

 

.... I'll upload a video of it soon..

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

Posted

the crazyness of this man may be helpfull !

 

These last days I was making some cleaning and organization in my garage , and I dropped many things to garbage...

My wife asked me why I didn't throw all these parts of foam...

 

Now I know what to answer ! :lol:

 

:thumbup:

 

One good thing is that she doesn't read this forum ! :D

Posted

lol,..i m amused a little, to see that we all have same problems with our wifes^^

 

they do not know what t do with all this "waste"

 

thx god i m a boy!)

TM HOTAS WH :joystick:, Saitek Pro Pedals, Track IR 4, 2xJoyWarrier, 1x KeyWarrior, i52500k @4600MHz, ASUS P8Z68-V Pro, NV 670GT, SSD+ WD BC+ WD Raptor, 32HD:pilotfly:[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

Posted
These last days I was making some cleaning and organization in my garage , and I dropped many things to garbage...

My wife asked me why I didn't throw all these parts of foam...

 

Now I know what to answer ! :lol:

 

:thumbup:

 

One good thing is that she doesn't read this forum ! :D

 

Women have no consept of what WE see as valuable assets that wee need to hold on to..! It's just one of life's great mysteries..!

 

... however, I really have serious problems coming to terms with womens consept of what is important, if not crutial to they're very existance!!

 

Nor have I, during my 41 years on this rock, I've never ever found myself in a situation where my life was dependant in weather I was carrying three shades of lipgloss or not.?

 

but who am I to say...:music_whistling:

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

Posted

I just feed the shoos to my dog. se yeals and they get tosed. some times boomer will get a purse :D Thast a good dog boomer yes you are. :devil:

Home built PC Win 10 Pro 64bit, MB ASUS Z170 WS, 6700K, EVGA 1080Ti Hybrid, 32GB DDR4 3200, Thermaltake 120x360 RAD, Custom built A-10C sim pit, TM WARTHOG HOTAS, Cougar MFD's, 3D printed UFC and Saitek rudders. HTC VIVE VR.

 

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Posted

.. THAT I don't belive..!

 

No man in he's right sence would ever do a thing like that..? Feed your wife's shoes to the dog? It's like signing the your own death sentence, and that of your dog to? LMAO..!

 

BTW. That is one good looking dog you have there.. Awake, attentive and alert.. like a dog should be..

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

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