VFRHawk Posted April 21, 2020 Posted April 21, 2020 Hey, Had switch 16 on my Warthog throttle go in to a permanently on condition. I've been in touch with TM and they say they don't have that part. Can anyone give me a location to buy from, and more importantly, the right part number for a remove and replace spare? I've seen the like of mouser but I've no idea what part to buy as they're all just switches to me! It's the left switch on the top row on the throttle, fuel control left or something similar on it. Many Thanks Graham Smart
Chunk Posted May 4, 2020 Posted May 4, 2020 Hoping that someone can come by and answer this, as my right side fuel switch needs replacing as I dropped a coffee mug on it and it’s now broken. Also, how big of a PITA is this going to be to replace? Thanks!
crash test pilot Posted May 5, 2020 Posted May 5, 2020 Its a stsp toggle switch like this: https://www.reichelt.de/hebelschalter-10-4-a-400vac-1x-ein-aus-hs-631-h2-p105644.html?&trstct=pol_10&nbc=1 It will be very hard to replace because its soldered into the board of the throttle...
Chunk Posted May 5, 2020 Posted May 5, 2020 Thank you for the info! I think I’m just going to leave it as is. I don’t want to risk destroying the entire thing.
jimcarrel Posted May 6, 2020 Posted May 6, 2020 I bought 3 of these a couple of years ago, I had knocked the throttle off of stand - and guess what it landed on? https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/100SP3T8B13M1QE/100SP3T8B13M1QE-ND/3777894 I don't remember any problems with replacing it Win 10 64 bit Intel I-7 7700K 32GB Ram Nvidia Geforce GTX 1060 6gig
Chunk Posted September 22, 2020 Posted September 22, 2020 Thrustmaster finally got back to me and will sell me the entire right PCB for the throttle, which includes the switch I broke. Is this just a plug and play replacement as far as everyone knows? I understand I’ll have to remove the main PCB to get to it, but I don’t anticipate that being a big issue. Just trying to avoid breaking out the soldering iron.
Chunk Posted September 25, 2020 Posted September 25, 2020 Can anybody answer if the right PCB is going to be a plug and play replacement?
Ala13_ManOWar Posted September 27, 2020 Posted September 27, 2020 Can anybody answer if the right PCB is going to be a plug and play replacement?Yep, for the PCB other than demounting and mounting again it's plug and play. You might have to update the firmware, easily checked in the software, and probably calibrate the thing since it's literally a brand new joystick. S! "I went into the British Army believing that if you want peace you must prepare for war. I believe now that if you prepare for war, you get war." -- Major-General Frederick B. Maurice
Chunk Posted September 28, 2020 Posted September 28, 2020 $73.74 total, shipped to the States. Also, it’s the right side PCB, not the main board.
Chunk Posted October 2, 2020 Posted October 2, 2020 So they sent me the replacement part in record time, but have they updated the boards since release, or am I going to be soldering things galore?
Chunk Posted October 12, 2020 Posted October 12, 2020 Looks like I need to stage the soldering iron out, but looks like only ten points need to be soldered. That being said, I removed the screw to removed the PCB, but it won’t budge. Any ideas from the hardware folks here?
DeadMeat Posted October 13, 2020 Posted October 13, 2020 (edited) You need to remove the nuts that hold the toggle switches in place from the top side. To do that you need to unscrew and carefully peel off the light plate first. Then you'll need needle nosed pliers or like a pair of tweezers to get in and unscrew the nuts. You may also need to unscrew and remove the plastic bracket that held the main PCB before you can slide the side PCB out. Edited October 13, 2020 by DeadMeat My mods --> Mil-spec upgrades for TM Warthog, Hornet & Cougar grips | Mil-spec upgrade for TM Warthog throttle | Real Tornado gear switch modded into gear and hook lever switches
Chunk Posted October 19, 2020 Posted October 19, 2020 She’s up and running, good as new! Took about two hours. The solder joints work perfectly, and no one can see them. but they could’ve looked better. I am beyond thankful for the heads up on removal of the right PCB, DeadMeat!
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