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Posted

Bought a fighter stick that is used condition from an online store.

 

 

My question is what problems should I look out for and what the best software to test everything working perfectly?

 

 

Thanks for any help.

Posted

Best software to test it: DCS UH-1 Huey

 

 

Problems to look for: excessive time at the computer flying pretend aircraft, eyestrain, awake late into the night...

 

 

 

jk

Posted

I kid, but really, these CH sticks are built to last, so you are probably ok.

 

A very long time ago, I had to retire a CH Flightstick Pro, I think it had 5 years of hard use before it started giving up. If memory serves I think one of the pots started getting jittery and with occasional spikes. But see, that was a unit made in 1995, before USB was a thing. It seemed to be losing some grey powder around the pivoting joints... not sure if that was dry lubricant escaping, or if it was just plastic powder created by plastic on plastic rubbing without lube?

 

I might have just got one that was missing some lubricant or maybe some other "lemmon" "special edition"... but I kinda think it was just massive use, and eventually a pot just gave up. I've heard from many people that it's kinda rare-ish for CH sticks to give up like that. It happens, but not too often, or at least not without many years of use.

Posted

Yeah CH stuff lasts forever ... i gave away a 17 yr-old stick that still worked perfectly . No need , really , for software . You can test in windows controllers menu . I do use CH Control Manager for calibrating , but never had a problem doing so in the windows calibration utility previously .

9700k @ stock , Aorus Pro Z390 wifi , 32gb 3200 mhz CL16 , 1tb EVO 970 , MSI RX 6800XT Gaming X TRIO , Seasonic Prime 850w Gold , Coolermaster H500m , Noctua NH-D15S , CH Pro throttle and T50CM2/WarBrD base on Foxxmounts , CH pedals , Reverb G2v2

Posted (edited)

Get VKB Joy Tester and analyze axes response.

 

http://ftp.vkb-sim.pro/Programms/

 

VKB Button Tester for test buttons, HATS, or test these in Windows Game Controllers (joy.cpl).

 

CH (Apem) CTS potentiometers for replacement are available in Digitky, around ~$5 each.

 

Rel4y sell contactless replacement (KMZ-41) for those vintage CH's.

Edited by Sokol1_br
Posted

Depends how old,

 

If it's from the quality years it's probably all good, if it's from the mid 2010's.

Mine from 2016 has some spongy buttons, and one hat register one out of three presses on average, and loose pins, but even after tightening the pin connectors I got so much pot noise it was nearly unusable for flying things in DCS.

i7 8700k @ 4.7, 32GB 2900Mhz, 1080ti, CV1

Virpil MT-50\Delta, MFG Crosswind, Warthog Throttle, Virptil Mongoost-50 throttle.

Posted

I am not sure how to tell when it was made but I got yesterday and testing in the CH manager and everything seem smooth so far, working perfectly.

 

 

 

Anyone have a good CH profile for a10c? Thanks.

 

IMG-20201016-192348061.jpg

Posted

worst case, replace the pots with the hall sensors available a couple topics down. I did that to my Fighterstick and it's been awesome.

Posted
worst case, replace the pots with the hall sensors available a couple topics down. I did that to my Fighterstick and it's been awesome.

 

 

 

 

Thanks, so far it looks all smooth in ch manager and ingame.

Just hope the throttle I ordered turns out to be the same lol.

 

 

I do have the fighter stick connected to a powered USB hub and I read this can remove the jitters?

Posted

Jitters are caused by fault potentiometers, with worm out or with dirt on resistive tracks.

 

CH' have a "Achilles heel": use plug connector in potentiometer wires, what can be loose and cause bad contact, is recommended check and press that connector tabs with pliers, or if have tools/skill apply solder.

Posted
Jitters are caused by fault potentiometers, with worm out or with dirt on resistive tracks.

 

CH' have a "Achilles heel": use plug connector in potentiometer wires, what can be loose and cause bad contact, is recommended check and press that connector tabs with pliers, or if have tools/skill apply solder.

 

Thanks I keep that in mind if they start messing up :)

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