DIY Doorgun Project for VR use

[hannibal]

Been watching alot of videos on the M2 Browning Ma' Deuce, now inspired to make a wanna be controller, that will be functional for the UH-1H and Mi24P doorgun position.  (hoping it will work for SA342 minigun variant and ch47 Chinook in future)

**UPDATE** 07.26.2023 Eagle Dynamics added joystick binds to the Mi24P doorgun, so this build is working

The minigun build is a blast to use, but agony to build. Trying to make this a fun project!

***NOTE**** if you plan to incorporate a bass shaker, you should add a relay to the trigger circuit, else any butt kicker out put will go to the shaker regardless if you are pulling the trigger our not, butt kicker wiring diagram TBA

LINK TO STL FILES 

Spade Grip assembly https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5863116

Top Gimbal Section https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5927492

Gimbal Base Section https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5932560

DCS Axis Controls and Button Assignments mappings:

axis doorgun slew LEFT/RIGHT, 

axis doorgun slew UP/DOWN

VR Re-center

Fire Weapon

Move Camera View Right

Move Camera View Left

Move Camera View Up, 

Move Camera View Down

Move Camera View Forward

Move Camera View Back

Radio PTT

 

 

 

List Parts (so far) :

2x M3-20mm screw (switch housing)

4x 1/4-20 x 3/4" bolt and nylock nut (mounting grips to c-bar)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BLKSYV3M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1-1/4 in. x 2 ft. PVC DWV Sch. 40 Pip

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Charlotte-Pipe-1-1-4-in-x-2-ft-PVC-DWV-Sch-40-Pipe-PVC-07100-0200/202018045

1x Cytron Arduino Pro Micro Compatible w/ Pre-soldered Headers (to be used with mmjoy2 to be programmed as windows controller)

https://www.robotshop.com/products/cytron-arduino-pro-micro-compatible-w-pre-soldered-headers?srsltid=Ad5pg_FU8fbJVsHuWKCVgksU0nf4NqHeFxScMWDMW16LZgnUgTfwnzaJa0w

if you do know how to program arduino use leo bodnar Bu0386

http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=94&products_id=204

 

or Leo Bodbar USB controller board http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=94&products_id=204

4x 6805-2RS Deep Groove Ball Bearings 25mm Inner Dia 37mm OD 7mm (for the potentiometer U-joint)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082PYT33D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

12mm Momentary Push Button SPST

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YDGVZ9B/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDPE Sheet (to make the grip brackets..)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/144548391463

2x paddle switches (to adjust the VR player view)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/182340027352

1x limit switch (very snappy)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/372481343091

Brown filament (to print grips)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0B2NZM21Z?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image

brass inserts M3, M4, M5 (you will need a solder iron to install these)

https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-Threaded-Embedment-Assortment-Projects/dp/B07VFZWWXY

13mm Momentary Push Button

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08B1P43XY

65mm bearing for gimble base 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082PWXCX9?psc=1&smid=A1THAZDOWP300U&ref_=chk_typ_quicklook_titleToDp

Diodes (to eliminate ghosting inputs)

https://www.amazon.com/Projects-1N914-Diode-General-Purpose/dp/B08MDGGCL5

 

STEP ONE (PREPARE GRIP ASSEMBLY)

1) print grips and grip covers

2) use a solder iron and mount brass threaded inserts ( M5 insert for the grip covers, M3 inserts for the grip tops)

3) print switch housing, then install the temco limit switch and connect the two halves of the switch housing together. use M3 x 20mm screw to keep the housing together

4) mount brass inserts M4 size for the switch housing

5) print Front panel and trigger lever. mount M3 insert to one side of the front panel where trigger lever will go

6) add compression spring (size 9.52  x 19.05) to trigger lever and screw down to the front panel

7) install 2x 1/4-20 nylock nuts to ends of the grips on the inside, for both grips.

8 mount grips on to the C-bar ***note: grips will have a through hole on the top- purpose to channel wires through. And there are two C-bars, with different size holes at the middle, pay attention when installing the grips, if incorrect, the housing will be upside down

9 install M5 nylock nuts inside the body frame. 

10 Mount body frame to the c-bars with 4x M5 x20mm screws

11 solder 4x 12mm buttons with diode and wires. Also solder diode to toggle switches. Attach buttons and toggle switches to grip.

12 run wires through holes at top of the switch. And then channel wires through housing body. Leave slack / extra wire to later connect to gimbal

13 connect pvc pipe to housing back plate with M4 screws.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 28, 2023 by hannibal

[hannibal]

From mind to reality. Project Coming along

 

[badwookie]

That's awesome!

[hannibal]

Step one

 

 

Edited February 19, 2023 by hannibal

[hannibal]

[hannibal]

[hannibal]

 

 

 

Edited February 22, 2023 by hannibal

[edmuss]

What are you printing with?  I've found that with esun PLA+ I can drill and tap threads directly into the print (just print at tap hole size) and they hold really well.  Obviously the load on the fixing and amount of material affects the strength but I've been pleasantly suprised.  Of course this is only helpful if you have a set of taps for the sizes you're threading!

Awesome looking work so far though

[hannibal]

3 hours ago, edmuss said:

What are you printing with?  I've found that with esun PLA+ I can drill and tap threads directly into the print (just print at tap hole size) and they hold really well.  Obviously the load on the fixing and amount of material affects the strength but I've been pleasantly suprised.  Of course this is only helpful if you have a set of taps for the sizes you're threading!

Awesome looking work so far though

I use esun pla+ also..and 3d fuel pla pro. At some point I'm putting a small buttkicker for vibration..so trying make sure the build is solid..

Thanks! I invite u to build one too! Especially if you dcs in VR

 

Edited February 22, 2023 by hannibal

[hannibal]

[edmuss]

Now I do have the Huey, and I am VR

I have a list of other peripherals to design and make, ka50 abris controls is next on the list, then a ka50 collective. Depending on space and gimbal size I might be able to squeeze a door gun in my cupboard as well!

[hannibal]

[edmuss]

For cabling have you considered cat5? Cheap (who doesn't have some spare cat5?), multi core and colour coded.

[hannibal]

15 hours ago, edmuss said:

For cabling have you considered cat5? Cheap (who doesn't have some spare cat5?), multi core and colour coded.

That's a no brainer!!

Wiring work continues

 

[hannibal]

[hannibal]

the spade grip protion is pretty much done. 

at the moment trying to figure out a gimble/ pintle part along with designing an even simpler grip for an easier build for the grip control...for those that might find that the spade grip is too hard to build

 

Edited February 25, 2023 by hannibal

[hannibal]

gimble design in progress

 

[hannibal]

Researching hall effect sensors. Will be my first project using hall effect IC and magnets! 

 

[edmuss]

I used hall sensors on my rudder pedals, my findings were set the magnet closest at your 100% deflection value and just calibrate from there (using a Leo Bodnar BU0836A in my case). Simply wired them up as per potentiometers.

My implementation on the toe brakes is as above and it works better than my initial setup for the main rudder axis. For the main axis I used 1 massive magnet salvaged from an HDD and set mid point about the sensor, basically because the magnet is always present near the sensor it doesn't actually register a huge range of values. I think it's just the varying strength of the magnet that's giving different values when moved.

When I get round to it I'll print off a mount which equispaces two smaller magnets which should give a better centre and a wider range of values. As they currently are they're phenomenal so it's not been an urgent requirement

Edited March 2, 2023 by edmuss

[hannibal]

Wish I did this before for previous projects! 

 

[hannibal]

Phase 2 in progress. (Top gimble assembly Y-axis)

 

Edited March 5, 2023 by hannibal

[Dogmanbird]

Very nice!

[Dogmanbird]

coming from my own experience with the hall effect sensors - if you can find one that has a built-in signal amplifier, the final output seems to be less granular and a greater value range at output that you can shorten if needed. Letting the the sensors amp do the work seems to be better than amplifying in post.

[edmuss]

7 minutes ago, Dogmanbird said:

coming from my own experience with the hall effect sensors - if you can find one that has a built-in signal amplifier, the final output seems to be less granular and a greater value range at output that you can shorten if needed. Letting the the sensors amp do the work seems to be better than amplifying in post.

Might that be why I see quite a narrow range of input points on the sensors with my leo bodnar board?  I typically see about 150 points delta in the controller calibration.
Don't suppose you have an example of one with the built in signal amp?
Lifted the below from datasheet for the hall sensors that Leo Bodnar stock, presume that the linear amplifier is the signal amp?

[Dogmanbird]

I have a few left at work that were given to me. I'll see if I can read the label when I next get in there. The one's I've bought off ebay that were very cheap didn't have an amp.  

However, two magnets very close to the rotational point and either side of, or, very close to the centre point of linear travel (north one one side of sensor / south on the opposite side or sensor) will usually still give a range of about 300 to 500 (of 1024) at the output on a non amp'ed sensor. I'd imagine from your great looking project, you'd know it's tricky designing something with the magnets really close together

Edited March 8, 2023 by Dogmanbird