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Collectif stick for BS

Ruahatu

By Ruahatu
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Ruahatu

Ruahatu

Posted
Posted

Hello all and sorry for my bad English :hmm:.

I wish to do only a collective stick for BS and directs me towards the USB AXES CARD from OPEN COCKPITS.

I

s this a good choice or there is other best card?

I intend to use:

1 axix

2 hat switch

1 push button

1 ON-ON (engine RPM)

1 ON-ON (schkval view 7 - 23)

1 (ON)-OFF-(ON) size of the schkval

1 ON-OFF –(ON) route, off mode, descend

is this correct ?

If I understood OAKES in a other post , a AUTOHOTKEY script is necessary to program the buttons?

Not having knowledge in scripts, somebody (OAKES :music_whistling:) can give me an example of script which can order my bouttons

Other information concerning my project are welcome :helpsmilie:

Bye, :pilotfly:

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BaD CrC

BaD CrC

Posted
Posted

Don't know if you looked at my topic, but here is my collective:

 

SIMG_3089.jpg

 

Use an old Nostromo N50 that I fixed at the end of a 25mm steel tube. Then I hacked a joystick base to fixe the steel tube. Nostromo is USB. I connected the vertical axe of the hacked joystick to a Leo Bodnar's USB card. Works like a charm.

I know, it doesn't exactly look like a Ka50 collective, but the hat can be used for the lights, the wheel for the thrust, and the 10 buttons for whatever you want. Plus, if you need more button, Nostromo can handle 3 levels of programming so you can have 30 assignements, just for the collective.

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JG14_Smil

JG14_Smil

Posted
Posted (edited)

hi, not sure if you do, but if you use a TIR, it may be a good idea to add a button or two for easy control of the TIR.

 

(As I read these posts about button programming, with their limitations, it makes me see just how powerful the good old Epic system is.)


Edited by JG14_Smil
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Sokol1_br

Sokol1_br

Posted
Posted

Ruahatu,

 

I consider BU0836 USB card better than USB Axes one, have more axis, more buttons, is more compact, tested and approved by many SIMers.

Take a look at http://www.leobodnar.com

 

Or, you can DIY your USB card, as Mjoy or Mjoy16. Is easy - if consider make PCB easy :P - and cheap.

 

The Ka-50 coletctive - like TH69 build - need:

19 buttons - in 2 HAT's, push or toggle buttons form.

1 axis.

Oakes changed one HAT (4 buttons) to mini-stick (2 axis).

 

Sokol1_br

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Ruahatu

Ruahatu

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Posted (edited)
Ruahatu,

 

I consider BU0836 USB card better than USB Axes one, have more axis, more buttons, is more compact, tested and approved by many SIMers.

Take a look at www.leobodnar.com

 

Or, you can DIY your USB card, as Mjoy or Mjoy16. Is easy - if consider make PCB easy :P - and cheap.

 

The Ka-50 coletctive - like TH69 build - need:

19 buttons - in 2 HAT's, push or toggle buttons form.

1 axis.

Oakes changed one HAT (4 buttons) to mini-stick (2 axis).

 

Sokol1_br

 

Thanks Sokol,

 

Problem is that the site of Léo is offline since à few days :mad:. I don't now if it is always possible to bye is card.

 

Can you tell me how to configure toggle buttons like route, off et descend mode, in BS with this sort of card? script, control panel from BS, what kind of toggle... ???

 

Thanks


Edited by Ruahatu
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Triggerhappy69

Triggerhappy69

Posted
Posted
Thanks Sokol,

 

Problem is that the site of Léo is offline since à few days :mad:. I don't now if it is always possible to bye is card.

 

Can you tell me how to configure toggle buttons like route, off et descend mode, in BS with this sort of card? script, control panel from BS, what kind of toggle... ???

 

Thanks

 

 

It's quite simple really. You use the DirectX inputs wherever that is possible (program the button in DCS settings). .

The only buttons I have programmed in SVMapper Software are the "ADJ FREE TURBINE" toggle switch, the "ROUTE MODE" function and NOT the descent (descent is programmed in DCS Settings) and last the "ADJUST SHKVAL" springloaded ON-OFF-ON Button/toggle switch.

 

All others are programed in DCS..

 

Although I am a fan of Opencockpits IOCards and aditional add-on cards, I totally agree with SOKOL1 that for the HOCAS and until we get the IOSoftware for DCS you should go with Leo Bodnars cards.. And do get the "X" version.. building matrixes is such a drag you have no idea:cry:!

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

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Schwinn

Schwinn

Posted
Posted

I just bought one of Leo's cards and 5 hall sensors one week ago and it indicates they shipped. I think that he has alot on his plate with everything he is doing but I sure wouldn't hesitate to buy another USB controller from him.

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Ruahatu

Ruahatu

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Posted (edited)

Thanks to all :thumbup:

 

First i will by all the buttons, but i don't find the hat. Have someone a good adress??

 

Another question for the ADJ FREE TURBINE. What king of toggle (ON)-OFF(ON) or oder???

 

TH69, can i have de dimension off your collectif box :D?

 

Thanks


Edited by Ruahatu
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Triggerhappy69

Triggerhappy69

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Posted

For the "ADJ FREE TURBINE" you can use both.

 

Alternative 1 with ON-OFF Toggle switch:

Use keymapping software like SVMapper to send the keystroke "Num+ - RAlt" when switch is on, and keystroke "Num- - RAlt" when switch is off.

 

Alternative 2 with ON-ON Toggle switch:

Use DCS joystick settings to program the two different inputs.

I am not sure I would go for this sollution, because it might mean that you fly around sending the "Num- - RAlt" continously..? And this might not be such a good idea..

 

Alternative 3 with ON-ON Toggle switch:

Coonect both sides of the ON-ON switch to the BU0836X board using diodes. This would in practise mean that the ON-ON stoggle switch can be set up as two seperate momentary buttons with SVMapper.

Lets say that the you connect the center of a ON-ON switch to

Use keymapping software like SVMapper to send the keystroke "Num+ - RAlt" when switch is on, and keystroke "Num- - RAlt" when switch is off.

 

If you buy the BU0836A or BU0836X controller and connect ON-ON switches, you need two more diodes for each ON-ON switch.

Lets say you connect the ON-ON switch to S1 and S7 using a common ground (the center pin on the switch). You should still add diodes at each of the two other legs (i did'nt havew a pic of this right now, but I'll post it later).

 

6x6.png

 

 

Download SVMapper from: http://forum.sukhoi.ru/attachment.php?attachmentid=70479&d=1173468799

 

Naturally you can have the dim's.. PM me your e-mail address and I'll send it right away. What format do you want (Solidworks, DXF, PDF or JPG)

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

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Ruahatu

Ruahatu

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Posted

Ok lets make a resume for the toggle :book:, first thing i want to by:

 

Adj free turbin: ON-OFF

Zoom 23X-7X: ON-OFF

TV size: (ON)-OFF-(ON)

Route mode: ON-OFF-(ON)

Lock: push button OFF-(ON)

 

Is it true???

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Schwinn

Schwinn

Posted
Posted

Exactly what I needed Trigger. I'll post pic of the collective I built soon. All aluminum.

 

Apparently I need to move to a different country to work with Aluminum. here in Canada I would have to sell my kids to be able to afford it. I bought a small bar 3 inch by 8 inches and it cost me $45.00 =\

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leafer

leafer

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ouch! You must have bought spaceship grade aluminum. That is outrageous.

 

Here, they are priced per kilo and depend on the grade. For example, 6061 and 7075 are expensive but not that expensive. The aluminum bar that I used was of mild grade so it is, somewhat, soft and difficult to machine. But I figured the one moving part on the collective isn't going to get abused like joystick gimbals, it was sufficient.

 

I plan on using higher grade for rudder bearing shafts and joystick gimble.


Edited by leafer

ED have been taking my money since 1995. :P

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Sokol1_br

Sokol1_br

Posted
Posted (edited)

As I consider BU0836X too expensive - for the price of one you buy ~two - a "easy" do make, and EASY to use matrix, using 6 x 12 terminal screwed connectors - require solder only in one diode terminal, like you have to make in switchs, buttons... :music_whistling:

 

http://users.skynet.be/jcordon/cockpit/electronique.htm

 

How to wire in BU0836 6x6 matrix:

 

matrix6x6.th.jpg

PS-I am not sure about encoder connections - I put to illustrate - check your documentation.

 

For clarity, only one Collumn is show, wire the others five in the same way.

 

Sokol1


Edited by Sokol1_br
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Triggerhappy69

Triggerhappy69

Posted
Posted
Apparently I need to move to a different country to work with Aluminum. here in Canada I would have to sell my kids to be able to afford it. I bought a small bar 3 inch by 8 inches and it cost me kr287 ($45.00) =\

 

You must have a company that does work with sheet metal near you? Look for someone that does industrial insulation or fix chimneys.. They always have sheet metal leftovers you can buy.

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

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Triggerhappy69

Triggerhappy69

Posted
Posted
Ok lets make a resume for the toggle :book:, first thing i want to by:

 

Adj free turbin: ON-OFF

Zoom 23X-7X: ON-OFF

TV size: (ON)-OFF-(ON)

Route mode: ON-OFF-(ON)

Lock: push button OFF-(ON)

 

Is it true???

 

Adj free turbin: ON-OFF (ON-ON will also work here)

Zoom 23X-7X: ON-OFF (ON-ON will also work here)

TV size: ON-OFF (ON-ON will also work here)

Lock: push button OFF-(ON)

 

ON-ON switches will give you the benfit of programming each position as a seperate input. As it is today it has no major importance, but I hope that when we get the IO software from ED we'll be able to have a menu telling us what switch is in the "wrong" position before respawning.

With ON-OFF switches this is not possible. As the SVMapper software just send a Key when ever the switch state changes..? I think..

Anyway.. These are just my thoughts on the subject. Personaly I have On-OFF switches today..:cry:

 

Route mode: ON-OFF-(springloaded ON)

 

SRINGLOAD MOD:

Buy a standard 10-15A ON-OFF-ON switch and open it. It should look something like this:

dscf45618617111.jpg

Notice the rocker plate at the bottom. This is what forms a contact between the center leg and the ON legs. When you open the switch it will be symetric in shape (I forgot to take a before picture) .

 

Now bend it so that it looks something like this:

dscf45608612327.jpg

This shape will allow the switch to snap into a locked position at one side, but at the other side (the one that now has a bend) it can't reach the "snap point" and will spring back to the center position when you release it!

 

Took me about 3 minutes to do this mod. And you don't have to wory about ruining the switch. It will tolerate some bending before it brakes.

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

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Triggerhappy69

Triggerhappy69

Posted
Posted
As I consider BU0836X too expensive - for the price of one you buy ~two - a "easy" do make, and EASY to use matrix, using 6 x 12 terminal screwed connectors - require solder only in one diode terminal, like you have to make in switchs, buttons... :music_whistling:

 

http://users.skynet.be/jcordon/cockpit/electronique.htm

 

How to wire in BU0836 6x6 matrix:

 

matrix6x6.th.jpg

PS-I am not sure about encoder connections - I put to illustrate - check your documentation.

 

For clarity, only one Collumn is show, wire the others five in the same way.

 

Sokol1

 

 

Good point there SOKOL1..:thumbup:

 

The price is an issue, and if your not building a complete pit you can easily get a couple if "A" models and have one for HOCAS exclusively..

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

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Triggerhappy69

Triggerhappy69

Posted
Posted
Are you sure?

 

You must have a middle position other way you can stop + or - tv size????? :helpsmilie:

 

Thanks

 

SVMapper can make it so on on only gives you one keypress at a time I think? Am i right Trigger?

 

It can.. But I confused this with the Shkval Zoom switch. My bad!

Definately go for a ON-OFF-ON button that is springloaded to both sides here.. So that it's resting position is center. I mapped this as a DirectX input in DCS, and by doing this and not using SVMapper it now increases/decreses the Pipper box size smooth and not to fast..

"But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!"

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

 

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leafer

leafer

Posted
Posted

If it's ok with people, I think I'll just be a leech for now -- clinging to someone's thread. Progress will be limited to funds which is something I don't have a lot of, so if I started a thread, it could be weeks or months before I posted an update.

ED have been taking my money since 1995. :P

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