Jocman's Cockpit (will be a long, long work....)

[JLZ]

FIA = fistula in ano? :megalol:

 

Couldn't you make some LED arrays behind that plexi (assuming its transparent) for back illumination? Or even drill some holes to fit LEDs inbetween rows and columns of keys? Maybe it can save you some time...

[Jocman]

Well, CyBercut, you're right and I'm not lucky: it's Home premium.

Honestly, I'm trying to make the OS image, so to keep a copy of the original OS, then I'm seriously thinking about format all and install the 32 bit version.

I hope it is possible to make a boot CD 64 bit using a 32 bit OS, as I wouldn't install anything on the laptop.

Do you know if is it possible to install the win7 32 desktop version on the notebook? I don't know about that, cause I never made it before on the laptop (every laptop I bought kept the original OS, but this time it's so problematic)

 

FIA = fistula in ano? :megalol:

Couldn't you make some LED arrays behind that plexi (assuming its transparent) for back illumination? Or even drill some holes to fit LEDs inbetween rows and columns of keys? Maybe it can save you some time...

 

Well, congratulation for latin citation. I was thinking to something like Finger in Axx, but the old time citation is nice.

 

About the back illumination:the plexy is transparent. I got the decals to put on it to make all the labels, and this kind of backlighting will be made by LED on the back of the panel (this for the panel's labels).

Those button-switches have the labels on it, so this is a way to backlight them.

BTW, I'm going on with the modding, and I realized I need 10 minutes to mod 1 switch (better than initial 1 hour, don't you?), even tough some of them are faulty, but I hope to fix it. The result is almost fine.

As I'll start using the new laptop, I'll post some images (currently I'm using the netbook, as the desktop monster isn't connected to the net)

 

Jocman

[JLZ]

Sure thing that 10 minutes is a lot of better :)

 

About OS. There is no laptop and desktop versions of OS. But, you need to collect drivers before action take a place. There is chance that wireless and/or LAN card wouldn't work and than you can't connect to internet.

 

Also, you can try to fix issues with those old programs you have (compatibility mode, patches, updates etc.).

[Jocman]

Damn, you're right...:(

I forgot those freaking laptops are all-in-one craps....

That's why I always build my desktops on my own.

Well, I'm afraid I've to keep the 64 bit OS. I don't need to fight with the laptop.

I'll try with compatibility mode, hoping that BS won't give me any problem with 64 bit on the laptop.

 

Jocman

[CyBerkut]

Hopefully that will work out for you.

[C6_Hellfrog]

Win 7 x64 ultimate user :

 

the XP mode is basic and use only generic drivers... it is roughly for non win7 compatible business softwares, not games (generic display driver and so on)

 

running a 32 bits software on Win7 x64 : no problem IF :

you install it using the following procedure :

 

right clic on the exe of the installer.

 

select properties

 

select tab compatibility

 

select winxp SP3 and check the box

under that check the box for : use with admin rights

then SAVE your choices apply it

 

then run your installer

 

then once install is finished, do the same with the exe of your program :

 

select compatibility mode and admin rights.

 

Very often this is enough to have your sfotware running OK

 

hope that will help

[Jocman]

Ok, guys. I'm online again.

Thank to all of you for the suggestions about using 32 bit compatibility mode in win7 64.

Some good news:

1) Finally I started use the new laptop, now I'm back online (I was getting crazy with the netbook)

2) This Laptop rocks.... (let me have some autocelebrations....)

3) Today I finished modding the push button, and here you find a goodie (from the left to the right: the original one, and the goal - with 1 led on, with both led on, without power)

 

 

What you think about?

BTW, it was really a fight (about 15 days to make them.....)

 

Work in progress......

 

Jocman

[CyBerkut]

Very nice! I'm glad to hear you're back in action!

[Avilator]

Lookin' good!

[Jocman]

Well, my 1st work disaster...

I was trying to assemble the levelers controls (fuel and throttle), and, as they're curve surfaces, I tryed to bend the cover with a thermo gun....

It worked well, untill the first third, then......CRASH!!!!

I've to recurse to B plan: metal....

BTW, I made some boxes, the DL panel, the radio panel, and the navigation panel. Ok, not totally made, but at least they start having some .... good look.

 

Jocman

[Avilator]

It's not a disaster, just an oppertunity to learn.:)

Keep it up, you'll get it!:thumbup:

[Scudslaker]

DoItYourself means experimenting and finding the fitting solution for your projects by testing different materials, technologies and inspirations, if things don t operate the way you want them, you should have learned the reason.

and any new problem causes new inspirations..as you ve already written there s a plan B.

 

keep up your work and don t take a rest infront of the TV bombardement of human stupidy! thats the most important fact, my friend!)

[JLZ]

What's going on? Any progress?

[Jocman]

What's going on? Any progress?

 

Well, I'm going on.

Im finishing the boxes: not really perfects, as I cut all the pieces by hand, so the lines are not so "lines".... Then, I found some errors in my measurements (i.e. some pieces 5 mm shorter), but I'm fixing on the ground (I don't want to cut again, too depressive....)

I hope at the beginning of the next week to have all the boxes complete and start with placing the electronic components, and the labels.

Then, painting and wiring the components. Then the backlinghting....

Damn, a lot of work still to do......

 

Jocman

[JLZ]

Not straight cut lines? Why do you care? Later, you can rework it with filler or something similar.

Make it work. Good luck :)

[Avilator]

Here's another idea: cut whatever it is slightly bigger than you want it, then sand or file it down to the size you want. You can be much more precise with a piece of sandpaper or a handheld file than you can be with any type of saw.

[Jocman]

Not straight cut lines? Why do you care? Later, you can rework it with filler or something similar.

Make it work. Good luck :)

 

Here's another idea: cut whatever it is slightly bigger than you want it, then sand or file it down to the size you want. You can be much more precise with a piece of sandpaper or a handheld file than you can be with any type of saw.

THanks for the suggestions, but....too late.

When I cut all the pieces, I planned to do it in about 3 weeks, so to check every piece. But, due some serious family problem, I hade only less than 1 week to cut all (I'm talking about more than 100 pieces), so I made a lot of mistakes. As I didn't have the cutting tools where usually I live, I had to "enjoy" just this little time.

The result is that all the pieces have some "error". Well, I think if you check each box very closely, you'll see all the errors. but if you watch the structure in its whole, it seems fine.

Honestly, the only cure should be cut the fake pieces (it means ALL) again, but I don't want......

Thw work is still long, I think I'm only at mid way.....maybe....

 

Jocman

[Jocman]

Well, guys, I hurry, so get this one.

I'll post something to self-comment later:

 

 

Jocman

[JLZ]

Nice :)

 

Few hours of usage and metal shine disappears and it will look just perfect.

[Jocman]

Ok, I'm back.

Lets go with self-critics....

It's not like the original, but I think that build exactly 1:1 it's almost impossible (well, depending on your budget, if I were uncle Bill Gates, I buy a real Ka50....)

The original radio switches have been replaced with concentric dual rotary encoders (inner knob for units, outer knob for tens), and consequently I mounted 2 LCD displays.

About the shape: the outer lines aren't straight, but I'm not so fine with this kind of work, I prefer the small precision work (I've not many patience to work on big pieces, but the smallers I love them - just have a look to the modded switches some posts up). And this is one of the small boxes, where I spent lot of time by hand sanding. if you see the bigger pieces (and the last pieces I made) you will kill me...I started sanding with the drill.....Yes, I know, it's a crazyness, in fact if you see the result.....:doh:

BTW, I finished the boxes (I was very tyred of), even tough not perfects. I'm a little bit upset for that, but it was my decision, so....

Honestly, at this point I burn to fly with my Ka50 (can you belive I NEVER flew with it???), so I want to finish with the electronics, then I have to build the main structure where mount the panels, then work on the controls (I'm studying the collective structure - I have already one self builded - and how to kill and mod a Microsoft Sidewinder II FF joy for cyclic)

Ah, I forgot: I'VE TO PROGRAM ALL THE I/O CARDS !!!!!!!:helpsmilie::helpsmilie::helpsmilie:(hoping they will work)

 

I WANNA FLY!!!!!!

 

Jocman

[Jocman]

AAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:

And not only those 2 panels......

 

[Jocman]

Well, I "fixed" the problems with some epoxy glue...ok, not really an excellent job, but....

I started with assembling some electronics components. I should make some test with the I/O cards.

I think I'll do it in this weekend, then 1 week holydays (I've to ...fly some other kind of .... aircraft), then I'll back with working on some other structural design. Plus the collective.

 

Jocman

[HitchHikingFlatlander]

What happened to the panels? The dog get a hold of them? LOL J/K....

[Jocman]

My Ka50 has been shot down before starting flying ;-)

Just some "bugs" while drilling......

It's very hard to manage a thin plexy (2.5 mm) while you drill near the corners.... When you drill with small drill (3 mm) evrything's fine, but use big drills (> 5 mm) it's a big risk. And think that some holes require 12 mm drill (like the plates on the right side)....

 

Jocman

[Prophet4no1]

Tip I was given when working on simaller material. Put making tape on both sides. Then use a high speed drill press and use very light pressure. Works like a charm. You can buy or build a simple rig to make a standard drill work like a press. I just made one with spare parts. Only had to buy a rack/pinion gear and a hydrolic dampener to hold the dril in place. Cost my around $40 US for parts.