How to mount OpenCockpits cards?

Feed · November 2, 2010

How are you guys with OpenCockpits cards mounting them? I've seen Leo's cards being mounted wherever there's room with a few different methods, and the best idea I've got is *trying* to plan ahead and leaving a little room for expansion while not getting crazy. They're all different sizes, so stacking them seems out of the question ... all on individual 'decks' using stand-offs?

Anyway, just looking for ideas/tips/whatever ...

As for cabling, I'm using what I've got (cat-5 UTP), along with RJ-45 jacks and plugs.

rocketeer · November 2, 2010

Do you plan to use breakout boards? Or connect the switches directly to the OC cards? it's recomended to seperate them, though I'm tempted to skip this to save cost.

You can connect the USB expansion card to the master cards directly to each other or via printer cable. But if you put them horizontally they'd take up a lot of floor space as you'd need several master cards and maybe two or three USB expansion cards. I plan to mount my cards vertically on the 'wall' below my panels and spread the cards out along the length of the left and rigt consoles.

I also thought of using UTP and Rj45 jacks but by default the OC cards use the 40 pin connectors which means using break out boards to change to RJ45. Still on the fence about this.

Deadman · November 2, 2010

Check Nigel's thread over at VP he is the master of organization

http://www.viperpits.org/smf/index.php?topic=3560.0

Feed · November 2, 2010

I'm planning on running UTP from panel groups straight to RJ-45 plugs, and using JR-45 jacks with punchdown blocks wired to the Master Cards. This is where I'm lucky, as I happen to have quite a few of those things laying around already. I figure that also lets me skip the little connection boards they offer. I'm using old IDE hard drive cables to go from the 40-pin sockets on the Master Card to the punchdown blocks.

I tried to plug a MasterCard directly into the USB Exp but I don't recall that actually fitting. I ended up making a short DB25 link. While I certainly expect to need more than one Master Card, do you really think I'll need more than one USB Expansion?? One of those can take 4 Master Cards, and I don't expect I'll need MORE than that!?? Is there something I'm not thinking about?

rocketeer · November 2, 2010

I can't remember how many inputs can one master card take. then multiple that by four for 4 mc to one usb card. we are talking inputs alone. if you plan to build ALL switches in the cockpit, that's a lot of them. you may need more than four. well just go with 4 for now and if you need more get them later with another usb card. there's a lot of toggles, push buttons (CDU, UFC), rockers, rotary switches, encoders, etc.

I don't have RJ45 plugs or punchdown blocks lying around. getting many of them will cost quite a bit. I think getting those 40pin ribbon cables will cost a lot less. I'm very tempted to wire directly from the MC to the switches directly and skip the hassle of breakout boards. maybe I'd use HE10 connectors as the in-between.

rocketeer · November 2, 2010

Check Nigel's thread over at VP he is the master of organization
http://www.viperpits.org/smf/index.php?topic=3560.0

I've seen his thread before. Very organized, must be thousands of hours given the level of details. Lots of things to learn from him.

It looks like he has lots of funds. I just have to do it the much cheaper way.

Feed · November 2, 2010

Thanks for that link, Deadman - I've seen a lot of your posts already, and I think it's fantastic that there's so much experience and helpful folks around here. I feel a little bit like I'm talking to celebrities as I make contact with folks that are so much further along than I am. I never intended this to go as far as it has, but it's certainly addicting. I'll have to check out Nigel's thread in more depth - with just a quick scan, I'm just in awe - like so many of the super-realistic pits folks have made.

I wrestled quite a bit with how to do the wiring - DB plugs, terminal blocks, etc. Once I realized I had the RJ stuff laying around, that made it easy. You're right though - that stuff ain't cheap. I'd certainly say that unless you're REAL sure you won't be moving your pit, EVER, that you'll be glad to have some sort of disconnect - I wouldn't wire directly from the OC card to the switch, but that is me - I suppose that when it comes right down to it, the 40-pin connector on the Master Card might be all you really needed - especially if you're keeping the cable runs short.

As far as the cards themselves, each Master Card can take 72 inputs, which means 288 total for a single USB expansion. I did a quick, rough count of the number needed for just the panels I've mocked up (printed a paper face to play with) and came up with at least 107, which I estimate to be about half the controls in the cockpit (but I've been wrong more than once). And again, it was a real rough estimate, figuring 2 inputs for every rotary encoder, 1 input for every on/off toggle, 2 inputs for every 3-position toggle, and 2 inputs for every rotary selector switch (which I know will end up being a low estimate, since several of those are 4- or 5- position selectors).

It seems like you could save inputs on the OC cards by using some binary logic, but I'm not sure it's worth the trouble. I'll be playing with that possibility at some point, exploring the trade-offs.

I think that I'd want to find a way to multi-task some of those inputs before adding a second USB Expansion - but there's no telling. I've basically promised myself I won't order any more OC cards until I get at least one switch actually functioning. :)

Ok ... I think I'm gonna go peruse Nigel's thread for a while, and learn me some more good stuff (not to mention making me jealous of yet another sweet set-up). LOL

PanelBuilder · November 2, 2010

Here's a nice breakout board I've used in the past:

http://www.winfordeng.com/products/brk2x20.php

Cheers,

Colin

Feed · November 2, 2010

Yeah ... $34 seems a bit steep, to me - but wire up all your switches to that, and use a simple 40-pin ribbon cable between that and your Master Card, and there you have it. The more I think about it, the more I like it, especially for those of us not building individual panels, but larger modules with a bunch of switches and buttons mounted into a single unit. Could make things very easy, indeed.

Triggerhappy69 · November 2, 2010

like this?

Feed · November 3, 2010

Niiiiiiiiiice! Oh, if mine end up half as neat and tidy, I'll be happy.

rocketeer · November 3, 2010

I thought of several ways to do the wiring.

1. Build a simple breakout board using perf board that has strips of lines horizontally. When you put the legs of a 2x20 pin connector, they are too close together and won't match those in terminal blocks that are spaced twice further apart. So use another terminal block moved a hole further down. the first block will line up with the legs of the 2x20 pin connector's odd number legs, while the second block with the even ones. Do so for the left side of the connector. Break the strip on the perf board joining the left and right side of the legs. Repeat the same for right side. See first picture. Even if this work we'd require quite a number of terminal blocks.

2. Use the connector with legs stick out like the above, and use female crimp pins to connector on one side, while the other side is the male pins that will connect to a female connector. see pictures 2 and 3. This way is flexible as there is no soldering and the female crimp pins can be pulled out anytime or swapped. But will need to use shrink tube to keep the crimp pins from touching each other. And assuming the connection with the stick pins is good.

3. Still using an IDC connector but this time not with the straight through legs but the type that will be crimped with a ribbon cable. see picture 4. this is also easy to do but the wires are all joined and can't be swapped. So this way all switches are joined by a ribbon cable to a male IDC, which connects to a femal IDC to anoter ribbon cable to the master card. Easy to seperate from the card.

4. The easiest way is to connect straight from the master cards to the switches. Least work and cost. see picture 5.