My modest MFCD Panel + Poor Mans UFC

[avlolga]

Hi CubPilot

I have read your "My modest MFCD Panel + Poor Mans UFC"

and i couldn't stop !!! (don't tell anyone what i am doing at work), i am myself starts with new project from scratch.

your work with " The Matrix From Hell!" is stunning.

 

if its ok by you - can you tell regarding the stickers - is it DIY or i can get one?

I am looking for layout prints / panel set real sizing, i realy like to start with this part.

Onc Again - great job !!!

[TulsA-10]

The next two modules, Left - Jettison Stores Module and Right - Fire Extinguisher Discharge Module

 

 

These two modules are the easiest to make.

 

 

The above photo shows the back side of the Left & Right modules. The main body of each module is made of 3/4" MDF material. I chose this thickness so that I would have enough room for the switches that are in each module. I then glued a 1/2" wide x 3/4" high strip of MDF material to form the ledge at the top and on the backside of the modules as shown above. This ledge matches the thickness of the main panel and the height of the Fire Handle Module and attaches to the top of the main panel. I traced the shape using the graphics I printed out at the very beginning of this project and cut the straight parts on the table saw, the curved parts were cut with a good quality jig saw (no 30 year old Black & Decker jig saw used here). A bit of finish sanding to fine tune the curved sections and I was on my way.

 

I then cut some 1/16" 3 ply Birch Plywood to width and the proper shape for each piece. I then wrapped this around the MDF main body, gluing it to the top, bottom, and sides. The straight portions presented no problem. But the curved parts did. Normal plywood is made with the grain of each ply (layer) glued together at different angles in relation to the other layers of the finished product. This makes the plywood equally stiff in all directions and makes it difficult to bend around curves. One solution would have been to steam the plywood and make it bend that way (if the glue used in this plywood could stand all that moisture). I did not have an easy way to steam the plywood, so I went down another path. I got some 1/16" thick balsa wood. This wood did not have any layers, it was a solid piece, readily available at the Hobby shop that I bought the Birch Plywood at, and was very flexible in one direction (90 degrees to the grain).

 

The holes seen at the backside of each module are for mounting the switches.

 

 

 

This picture shows the top side of each module. Before I glued this up I cut the plywood and balsa wood to the same width. Figured out the length I needed for the straight parts covered with plywood and the curved parts covered with the balsa wood, plus a little bit more length to allow for final trimming. I then glued these two different materials by butting the edges together to form a smooth, even joint. I placed them on the table saw top with the plywood against the fence, some wax paper under the butt joint area so as not to make a gluey mess on the top of the table saw, then pushed the balsa wood tightly against the plywood, finally I placed some more wax paper and a heavy weight on top of both pieces of wood. I left it like that overnight, had a nice evenly joined piece of wood in the morning.

 

The two holes in the top of each module are for the screws to attach them to the main panel.

 

 

 

 

The plywood/balsa wrap is glued and complete. Nice curves huh? :smilewink: The graphics are installed to locate the holes for the switches. Also shown is the aluminum push button guard for the Stores Jettison Button.

 

 

 

Painted and installed Left Module.

 

 

 

Painted and installed Right Module. :D

 

More to come.

 

:pilotfly:

 

Very nice work.. Where did you find the button with the guard? I saw on online once and can't remember where.

[CubPilot]

Hi CubPilot

I have read your "My modest MFCD Panel + Poor Mans UFC"

and i couldn't stop !!! (don't tell anyone what i am doing at work), i am myself starts with new project from scratch.

your work with " The Matrix From Hell!" is stunning.

 

if its ok by you - can you tell regarding the stickers - is it DIY or i can get one?

I am looking for layout prints / panel set real sizing, i realy like to start with this part.

Onc Again - great job !!!

 

I won't tell anyone what you have been up to at work, if they ask .... :music_whistling:, that's all they are getting out of me. :lol:

 

First off, my panel is as desktop unit, so it is not made to simulate the sizes of the real deal. It is also a mixture as far as being a close copy design wise (not so much dimension wise) of the A-10C inst panel. Some items I model reasonably well, like the LDG Light Switch. Other items aren't even close, like my UFC keyboard. I consider cost, time spent, what materials I already have on hand, the physical constraints my panel imposes on me, if a certain item sparks my interest to spend more time on, etc., when adding items to this project.

 

There are threads on this forum which discuss the real dimensions of the A-10C cockpit. That's where to look for that stuff.

 

I have attached a .zip file of the graphics I used for the glare shield. I got them from making screen shots from the sim using Track IR and then tweaking them in a Photoshop type program (I used Serif PhotoPlus X2). Because of cockpit shadows in the sim I needed to tweak the yellow markings to get them to be closer to the same shade, the shaded areas had an orange tint to them. It isn't perfect, but close enough for me.

 

They are .png files and can be resized without losing quality. Be sure to keep the width & height proportions the same when resizing them and to save them using the highest quality settings. What I did was re-size each module equally (I changed the width settings as that was my main concern and checked "Maintain Aspect Ratio" in the software). I then taped them together, and held them up to my panel to check to see if the proportions were about right for the width of my main panel.

 

The left and right modules were then printed and trimmed along the yellow dotted lines, this was then used as a template for the shape of the modules and placement of the switches/buttons. The modules are slight larger than the template (use a pencil to draw around the template, then cut out leaving the pencil line + a bit more for sanding to leave the line on the finished piece). This insures that the graphics will fit inside with a little room to spare.

 

All I used from the Fire handle graphic was the Fire Handle part of it. The areas between the Handles needed to be wider to match the LED units I used for the flood lighting.

 

Well, I hope this helps! You might be able to use these graphics and re-size them to the actual A-10C dimensions, or very close to it.

 

 

 

:pilotfly:

a10c_fire-bottle-stores_graphics.zip

Edited September 9, 2011 by CubPilot

[pcalvert]

Great work CubPilot... I really like your LED's. I'm still thinking of building your UC lever! - If I can find somewhere to fit it :)

[CubPilot]

Very nice work.. Where did you find the button with the guard? I saw on online once and can't remember where.

 

You may have seen it in this thread earlier! :smilewink:

 

The button is a Radio Shack item, the one with two in the package. One has a red button, the other a black button (I painted it red for the LDG Gear panel button). These don't take much force to push them in which I thought was better for me because the Inst Panel is not fastened down to the desk and the only G's I will be pulling will be virtual ones.

 

The button guard in my handy work, dimensions my own.

 

 

:pilotfly:

Edited September 9, 2011 by CubPilot

[TulsA-10]

You may have seen it in this thread earlier! :smilewink:

 

The button is a Radio Shack item, the one with two in the package. One has a red button, the other a black button (I painted it red for the LDG Gear panel button). These don't take much force to push them in which I thought was better for me because the Inst Panel is not fastened down to the desk and the only G's I will be pulling will be virtual ones.

 

The button guard in my handy work, dimensions my own.

 

 

:pilotfly:

 

Thank you for the info plus the file upload. I though you might of made the switch guard.. I knew i should of save it to my fav's... I was looking right at and thought oh i'll come back to it and now i forgot the site..lol

[CubPilot]

Great work CubPilot... I really like your LED's. I'm still thinking of building your UC lever! - If I can find somewhere to fit it :)

 

Thanks.

 

I had to think for a bit...... UC Lever...... UC Lever.......... ahaaaa........ Under Carriage Lever! :doh: You are from across the BIG Pond I assume?

[avlolga]

CubPilot,

 

great work, after see you work i like to do it my self even-due it will not look the same.

you are very inspiring.

Thanks for sharing.

 

what is next !!!:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

[CubPilot]

CubPilot,

 

great work, after see you work i like to do it my self even-due it will not look the same.

you are very inspiring.

Thanks for sharing.

 

what is next !!!:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

 

Thanks. I hope I gave you some ideas on at least one way to make some of this stuff. Feel free to pick, choose, or modify any of my methods so they might work for you and the tools you have to work with.

 

Been taking a break from this for a bit. Been working with VAC (Voice Activated Control) for use with the AI command menus (for $18US this is a bargain! Very much like Game Commander, but is still being updated, even for Win7 64bit!). :thumbup:

 

Also relocated the Track IR center button to the Warthog joystick pinkie lever using AutoHotKey (While still retaining the Warthog's plug & play with DCS A-10C). It was on the UFC keypad, but it wasn't the best place for it.

 

I used AutoHotKey again to bind the Warthog throttle Comms switch "UP" position to act as a mike switch for the AI command menu, works pretty good. I can probably do the same for TARS or Teamspeak using the throttle switch "IN" position of the Comms switch.

 

 

 

:pilotfly:

[Succellus]

Hi cubby, i still have GC2, and functional on win 7 64.

Is VAC much superior to it ?

[CubPilot]

Hi cubby, i still have GC2, and functional on win 7 64.

Is VAC much superior to it ?

 

I'm not sure VAC is better. I haven't used GC2 in quite awhile (I got the version with the labtech noise canceling mic). The mic works great, but when I found the original GC2 box it was minus the program disk & I can't find it. So it would be hard for me to make comparisons between the two.

 

It appears that GC2 is no longer being updated (it's a Win95 thru Win2000 era program), so I tried VAC (free trial period w/full functionality), very reasonable price, and it did the job for me. It is also being improved by the author, so that's what I went with.

 

If you already have GC2 & it does the job for you then by all means use it. There is nothing wrong in doing so. If not I recommend VAC.

 

Seeing how you are using GC2 maybe you might want to try VAC & compare them. I don't remember enough about GC2 to do that. It would be good to know the +'s & -'s of each & how they measure up to each other.

 

 

 

:pilotfly:

[CubPilot]

Joystick / Chair Mounting

 

I have taken a break on the instrument panel work due to real world stuff, but I have begun working on joystick placement. I had the joystick sitting on the pull out keyboard shelf. This is far from ideal. The joystick is too high to be used comfortably and the joystick base has to hang off the edge of the shelf so that full forward stick movements do not hit the instrument panel - :joystick:. The throttle is also on the keyboard shelf and it also hangs off the self for the same reasons as the joystick.

 

I thought I would like to have a center mounted joystick attached to my desk chair. Others have done similar things, this is my version, a work in progress still needing some fine tuning.

 

I was wandering through Lowe's the other day and decided to look in the plumbing section to see what I could come up with.

 

 

 

Shown above, beginning at top left to right:

 

2" diameter x2ft PVC Schedule 40 pipe (Lowe's #256099)

PVC Vent Elbow (Lowe's #23349)

2" PVC Drain (Lowe's #253242)

2" PVC Offset Drain (Lowe's #253214)

 

The offset drain is a perfect match for the diameter of the Warthog joystick base (the round part).

 

 

 

I began by making a wood attachment for the chair to mount the PVC parts to. The picture shown above shows the attachment. The view is looking at the bottom of the chair, the front of the chair is towards the bottom of the picture. The aluminum tabs are attached to the wood and then slide under the two front bolts that hold the chair to the chair's base.

 

 

 

The above pic shows the whole thing. The horizontal board has a dado (groove) cut into it about 1/2 the thickness of the board, the vertical board fits into the dado and is glued and screwed. This makes a very stable arrangement to attach the PVC bits to. The horizontal board is also screwed to the front bottom edge of the seat for added support. I cut the drain flange off at the top of the drain so it would fit up tight against the horizontal board. A short piece of pipe connects the drain to the 90 degree elbow. Presently the joystick is clamped to the PVC.

 

 

 

This is a view looking at the front of the chair. All the drain flange attachment screws are not installed. There will be a total of 7 screws. The vertical pipe pushes the front of the chair cushion in a bit and the offset drain positions the joystick perfectly for this chair without having to cut a notch in the chair seat or cut the chair seat leather.

 

 

 

So, this is where I am at the moment. I took the stainless drain screen and gaskets off the offset drain as I won't be using them. The top offset drain, vertical pipe, and vertical part of the 90 degree elbow are not glued together yet. I can use screws to temporarily connect them together securely if needed for testing before gluing them. I need to fine tune the height a bit more and I am also considering a short joystick shaft extension which would have an effect on the PVC pipe length needed.

 

My plans are to make a metal plate to attach to the joystick base, and another to attach to the PVC drain. These would be made so that the joystick can be detached easily to ease sitting & exiting the chair or when I don't need the joystick attached.

Note: This is continued here.

 

 

Edited June 1, 2012 by CubPilot

[airdog]

You really need to hinge the Warthog stick to fold forward and you would have no problem making the long flights because you have a built in urinal there too ;)

[69thBlade]

LOL @ Airdog.:megalol:

[CubPilot]

Yep, going for some authenticity, every A-10C seat has a piddle pack or two. :D

 

 

 

:pilotfly:

Edited December 5, 2011 by CubPilot

[Lumper]

I thinking more of once glued and "water tight" and filling with beer and a long straw!

[CubPilot]

Hmmmm....... with a bit of refrigeration....... that works for me too. Now there's something that the real A-10 doesn't have! :megalol:

 

 

 

 

:pilotfly:

Edited December 6, 2011 by CubPilot

[mikewmac]

Cubby,

 

That's a very clever approach. Isn't PVC pipe great for DIY projects? :thumbup:

 

Mike

[CubPilot]

Cubby,

 

That's a very clever approach. Isn't PVC pipe great for DIY projects? :thumbup:

 

Mike

 

Thanks. I have seen similar approaches using PVC pipe in other posts on the web. However, if my joystick mount to the PVC works out as planned, that will be something I can call my own. Yep, PVC pipe/fittings can come in handy for some things, I'm thinking this is one of them.

 

After I get the design finalized (still considering the hinged joystick...... :lol:) it will get a bit of black paint to increase the stealth factor. :smilewink:

 

 

 

:pilotfly:

Edited December 8, 2011 by CubPilot

[Sappo]

Uhhh.. oh wow.

 

You certainly are building one impressive pit!

 

I take it you are in some sort of trade involving machining / engineering?

 

 

Once again , very impressive.

 

Also I must ask... what chair is that you have ?

 

It looks very comfortable.

[CubPilot]

Uhhh.. oh wow.

 

You certainly are building one impressive pit!

 

I take it you are in some sort of trade involving machining / engineering?

 

 

Once again , very impressive.

 

Also I must ask... what chair is that you have ?

 

It looks very comfortable.

 

Thanks, but just for the record, it isn't a real life, to scale pit. It just fits the space I have available. It started life to hold the TM MFD units with the video screens mounted behind them. Then I started adding things. It progresses with thinking, "I might as well add this..... might as well add that" ................ I think this is how building a full cockpit starts!

 

Never been a machinist in the professional sense of the word, but I have been exposed to it on a basic level. Hopefully I had enough exposure to keep all my digits intact. No engineering degree either.

 

I got the chair on sale about a year ago at Staples (USA). It is comfortable but it does swivel which isn't ideal with rudder pedals, but still usable. I may try to do something about the swivel feature in the future. The armrests might go or be modified if I decide to mount the throttle to the chair, it needs to go somewhere other than where it is now.

 

 

 

:pilotfly:

[Sappo]

Well you do good work it seems, very sound design and well thought out.

 

I just wish I had the room / time / budget to build something of my own!

 

Perhaps some day in the future when I have a man-cave to devote to the finer aspects of life.

[beynesairforce]

Just a small question. Did think of something to get the handle in position because due to his weight, in up position he will going down ?

 

 

Cali, Each of us have our own special talents. If we can all help each other out then all will be well with the Universe.

 

Thanks Duckling, I checked out your A-10 cockpit project and it doesn't look amaterurish to me. Nice job right back at ya. :thumbup:

 

Left Wing Panel with LDG Gear Handle

 

 

 

Attached to main panel.

 

 

Next the Anti-Skid and Taxi Lights Switches.

 

 

 

 

:pilotfly:

[CubPilot]

Yes, I did think of something to keep the handle up.

 

 

First, so that the handle worked smoothly, I added a small piece of 10 Mil thick UHMW Tape between the handle lever and the angle mounting bracket. This tape is very slippery and no lubrication is needed, one side has adhesive on it so I could stick the tape to the lever. You can just barely see it in the photo above, it's black.

 

Then to add enough friction to hold the LDG handle up when I let go of it I added a compression spring to the bolt, shown above at the right side of the angle bracket under the nylock nut (looks like chrome plated threads under the nut, but is actually a spring). The nylock nut has a nylon material in it that will lock it to the threads of the bolt so it will not loosen up in use.

 

Back to the spring. I tried to get one that fit over the bolt and was a bit bigger than the bolt diameter so the spring would compress without the spring coils clamping onto the bolt in the process. This did not work as I intended because the spring I used didn't have enough tension to do the job. I could have looked for a stronger spring but instead I tightened the spring I had to the point of having the spring coils actually touch each other, in other words binding the coils together (no space between the spring coils). I kept tightening the spring until I got the result I was looking for.

 

The result is a very smooth LDG lever action and it stays put, and I can adjust the friction my taste.

 

 

 

:pilotfly:

Edited December 31, 2011 by CubPilot

[Strix]

Nice pit CubPilot!

 

A question.

 

I see that you use 2 small monitors for MFCD.

I am gone do the same, but! I cant figure it out how to get the MFCD to show in the monitors...

I tried to read the guide to multi monitor set up, but I cant make it work in my .lua file.

I use 3 monitors as screens and 2, 8" vga for my MFCD.

If you can give me a look at your .lua for the MFCD I would be glad.

Or any other help would be nice.