Mr_Burns_Attempt!

[mladen]

Hi Mr. Burns, :)

 

Regarding the UFC (mini keyboard) … it happens quite often that the keyboard will not function properly (it won’t react at all) :huh: ; I am still trying to find out the proper procedure to be sure UFC is functional once in the simulator.:book:

 

I do the following steps:

 

1. Start HIDMacros (as administrator)

2. Select the “Find” button and press one of the UFC keys so the kbd2 is recognized; KBD2 is my mini keyboard device

3. Minimize HIDMacros window.

4. Start the simulator.

 

I have doubts about step two.:huh:

 

I would appreciate if you could describe your UFC/HIDMacros start-up procedure. :thumbup:

 

Thank you

 

Hammer

[Mr_Burns]

I dont know because I only used it a few times before my computer broke. But whilst messing with the different selections I noticed that it spewed a bit if I didnt start the PC with the keyboard already in.

 

So if I plugged another USB in and then the keyboard it called it something different so HID didnt recognise it.

 

Is your main keyboard USB or PS2 - perhaps this might affect it.

 

Also, there is another member on here (SHU77) using HID, I will see if he knows anything more.

 

Surely there must be a more stable program than HID out there??

[shu77]

Yeah I cant get it to work for the CDU. The issue seems to be that DCS sees the modified press and the unmodified one due to the way it grabs the keyboard input. It will work for say a where the alternate key press is not mapped, but if you map it to something like G you will get the mapped input and the non mapped (i.e. CDU G and gear down)

I've posted on the HIDMACRO Forum, but there doesnt seem to be a fix.

[Mr_Burns]

Hi ive done a bit more on my pit so I thought I would update.

 

I completed the panels, they are 5mm MDF for the face panels, to make sure they didnt foul on the monitor bhind it a made a frame from 12mm MDF - I was pleasantly surprised with the results and accuracy of a jig saw. I decided to wire them to connectors and will wire the GGG also so I can just unplug when / if I upgrade.

 

This is the ACHP front:

 

 

 

have painted them with black paint to get rid of that white mottling.

 

and rear

 

 

And all 4

 

 

What I have found from the way I am making these panels is that with printed paper as the panel, the finish is not that great and laminating them makes it too shiny. Im not that bothered but it certainly isnt a good finish.

 

So next I sprayed the front panel in a grey primer, MDF takes some paint, it just absorbes it. Again, I was pleased with the finish from only a Jig Saw and drill, as mentioned in another thread, although no perfect by any means it is OK!.

 

 

If you look closely you cans see the 'L' shape cutout is a bit wonky, thats my 'slacker' attitude sometimes and I always hear my wife saying 'measure twice cut once!'.

 

 

And with the panels attached:

 

 

Close up:

 

 

Close up angle:

 

 

And with the 19" monitor:

 

 

Rear monitor mount (dubious engineering):

 

 

And finally with a test of Helios:

 

 

So I havnt gone into programming Helios, just ran a test to give an idea of the finished article.

 

Next steps. Well I am considering whether to make the extin discharge weapons jettison stuff work with some push buttons and a toggle switch, I need to superglue all the switch templates to the UFC and mount that.

 

I was also wondering if anyone knew if you can export the F12 MAP view to another screen?

 

Oh and if anyone was wondering, the little push button panel in the middle which is using a picture of some other random transceiver. And is for the Comms button and keys F1 - F12 so I can use that to command wingman and awacs and towers etc.

 

I also am working on an old joystick to create another POV HAT and 5 buttons to try and increase the HOTAS, im working on positioning and at the moment thinking I might make a cyclic type lever so I can use it if I ever go to Black Shark or if another Heli Sim comes put in the future, I was thinking if I could have this sat next to the throttle it would be easy to just jump across with my hand. Any thoughts?

 

Then its down to programming all the switches and controls.

 

Then its new computer time and monitor, I am going for the following set up, some compromises and I am a storage whore hence the 2TB, I currently have 2 x 2TB Externals with everything backed up twice, you should see my attick and garage too:

 

i7-2600k

Gigabyte G-B Z68XP-UD3

2 GB 6970 (powecolor or GB)

8GB (4Gx2) 1600 G.Skill Ripjaws-X

Win 7 64bit

24" monitor

Coolermaster 750w PSU

Coolermaster Storm Scout

Thermtake FRIO OCK fan

2TB Seagate SATA3

 

 

Then I can learn to fly again!

 

Well thats all for now.

[TulsA-10]

Not to bad burns.. Building pits couldn't be more fun. I'll be starting mine as soon as i get a UMC 2.0 from flim.. Your pit looks good man.. The gear lever turned out really well. I repair xbox 360 consoles and can use the tray presure switches for the up down control. Nice job.. keep the pics rollin.

[CubPilot]

Mr. Burns......... Mr. Burns! Man I get busy, then come back to the forums and see this thread. You go man! Looking good. :thumbup:

 

I posted a file in my thread with the graphics that I used for the Fire handles and the left & right parts. They are .png files (Photoshop or photo editing program as long as you can load & save .png files) and you are welcome to use them and re-size them for your pit if you want. Save them as .png files and re-sizing will not affect the quality. Change the width equally for each file, make sure that the height is locked to the width (aspect ratio) & print them out, tape them together and check them against the width of your panel. If it isn't right change the size until it is.

 

 

:pilotfly:

[Mr_Burns]

Haha thanks cubby, I get my bonus from work this week so I can finally get the computer to run the game and the 27" monitor to display it. I cant wait to play again with a system that doesnt freeze when a bomb goes off!

 

I saw your files, awesome thanks, do you (would you) use the fire extin and weapons jettison much, just trying to work out if its worth simulating the buttons or just having the artwork??

 

See that blank right hand side, do recon a clip board for checklists or clock or something, what do you think to make it less bland??

Edited September 12, 2011 by Mr_Burns

[Mr_Burns]

Not to bad burns.. Building pits couldn't be more fun. I'll be starting mine as soon as i get a UMC 2.0 from flim.. Your pit looks good man.. The gear lever turned out really well. I repair xbox 360 consoles and can use the tray presure switches for the up down control. Nice job.. keep the pics rollin.

 

Hey I repaired my XBOX recently, I used the repair to get rid of the x clamp and use some different screws to hold the heat sinks on the chips, worked like a charm ever since, 4 months on now and considering whether to offer the same services to fellow Adelaide (south Australian) folk!

 

Didnt see the tray pressure switches though - what are they?

 

Cubpilots work was the inspiration for the gear lever, I have a feeling though that mine will need to be repaired sooner rather than later, it feels like it will work loose and the switches and movement of the lever dont 'feel' right, hard to explain but I had to tighten the force screw to make sure it holds the up click whilst the down click just happens smoothly. Will see what happens.

[CubPilot]

Haha thanks cubby, I get my bonus from work this week so I can finally get the computer to run the game and the 27" monitor to display it. I cant wait to play again with a system that doesnt freeze when a bomb goes off!

 

I saw your files, awesome thanks, do you (would you) use the fire extin and weapons jettison much, just trying to work out if its worth simulating the buttons or just having the artwork??

 

See that blank right hand side, do recon a clip board for checklists or clock or something, what do you think to make it less bland??

 

Not sure how much the stores jettison and fire ext switches will be used (although at the moment I seem to take a lot of damage trying to take out targets). The fire ext kind of goes with the fire pull handles, it allows you to select which fire ext bottle to use (there are two). I have mine wired up only because I had the button room on Leo's USB board & I wired the fire ext handles. I have had damage to the LDG Gear a few times and had to land wheels up, good to use the Stores jettison button then................................. but I forgot to use it! :doh: In the end, what buttons are important is something each of us will need to determine for ourselves.

 

I do think having the artwork looking more like the sim would be make it look much better IMHO. All my file needs is to be re-sized to fit the width of your panel.

 

As far as your LDG Gear lever, I think it needs a longer bolt (the bolt should have a shoulder [ area of no threads] that the handle will pivot on), a Nylock nut (it has a bit of nylon in it to lock it to the bolt threads so it doesn't loosen with movement), a fender washer (much larger outside diameter than what you have now) to go under the nut & touching the handle, a spring that fits the bolt, and something that will act as a bearing between the handle & the MDF it is attached to (some plastic or a nylon washer maybe, the larger the outside diameter the better). Also screws would probably be better than the nails holding the switches, but if there is no movement of the switch bodies now then the nails are OK. Just some ideas to help you refine your LDG Gear Handle.

Edited September 12, 2011 by CubPilot

[Mr_Burns]

The new computer cometh....

 

So I went all out and spent $2,000 on a new PC and it is nice, the Coolermaster HAF is a beast, the water cooler, the HD6970, the i7...and I have just spent the entire weekend trying to get the graphics lines up, helios to work, the UFC, the MFD....In between running the kids around and trying to get a tent and a camping fridge for summer!

 

(thenks to the bonus of course!)

 

I am just creating my own saitek profile now because I CANT GET THE JACK BAUER ONE TO WORK and I havnt got a trackir yet.

 

In the USA on Amazon the trackir5 is $150 in Aus its $250-$300 and Amazon wont ship this part to Aus - will have to find another way....

 

Anyway, got helios running, the MFD''s aligned and sized and the game runs flawlessly and I havnt even started overclocking!!

 

(guess who is a bit excited!)

[firestick22]

Nice job! Gotta get that little keyboard. Great idea for a UFC!

[CubPilot]

The new computer cometh....

 

So I went all out and spent $2,000 on a new PC and it is nice, the Coolermaster HAF is a beast, the water cooler, the HD6970, the i7...and I have just spent the entire weekend trying to get the graphics lines up, helios to work, the UFC, the MFD....In between running the kids around and trying to get a tent and a camping fridge for summer!

 

(thenks to the bonus of course!)

 

I am just creating my own saitek profile now because I CANT GET THE JACK BAUER ONE TO WORK and I havnt got a trackir yet.

 

In the USA on Amazon the trackir5 is $150 in Aus its $250-$300 and Amazon wont ship this part to Aus - will have to find another way....

 

Anyway, got helios running, the MFD''s aligned and sized and the game runs flawlessly and I havnt even started overclocking!!

 

(guess who is a bit excited!)

 

Sounds like a good system you have there Mr Burns. Coolermaster makes good cases IMHO. I have a CM Centurion Case with a water cooled i7 920 OC'ed to almost 4GHz, it does quite well running most any sim with the eye candy turned up.

 

Enjoy your new rig! :thumbup:

 

 

 

:pilotfly:

[Mr_Burns]

I had to dismantle my pit, just not enough room and not practical for playing other games, to be honest, I just didnt immersed enough as well due to the lack of a '"so what"" feeling on the SP campaign.

 

But im itching for another mini project....currently dismantled joystick and started on a collective, anyone got any engineering idea of how to turn one of those little axis pots in a joystick to sit on the end of a collective arm so as it goes up and down it turns the pot thing?

[Mr_Burns]

So I got back into playing it, had a break for a while, refreshed I needed to slim the pit down so I could play but then pack it away for when I dont.

 

Here is what i did today:

 

Took a monitor and mounted some sort of attachment at an angle so it slides over the desk:

 

 

 

 

The wood should be level but I miss measured the angle on the bottom piece, will go back and correct it another day. Also the tape is just holding some cardboard to protect the wifes desk from the screw heads which protrude slightly, i didnt counter sink cos I am a lazy scrote but if you are wondering it isnt just cellotaped on!

 

So I took my 3 panels and attached them to one of the side stands I built for my full pit:

 

 

I find that utilising the hack start, the main buttons I use are all here, except I still need the keyboard for the views and radio.

 

And this is it, bit of immersion:

 

 

And from the seat:

 

 

The monitor behing is 27 inch, just the prospective makes it look like 2 x 15 inch monitors!

 

And then it all slides nicely down one side of the desk for when I'm not on DCS:

 

Edited May 19, 2012 by Mr_Burns

[CubPilot]

Looks good! Not everyone has room for a full pit (or the money).

 

 

 

:pilotfly:

[AegisFX]

Mr. Burns, I have had DCS A-10C for a while now, but never could get into it. I always felt my stuff wasn't "sim" enough to really be fun. I recently finished up school, and during the summer, decided to come back to it, and really give dcs the try it deserves. Threads like this, where I can see people are able to enjoy the game with creative use of hardware, has inspired me so much. and MY GOD, THAT MINI KEYBOARD FOR UFC?!?!?! GENIUS. I seriously just had to post to say that Mr. Burns. Seeing that...just makes me think I can easily have fun with what desktop space I can use.

[Mr_Burns]

Thanks Aegis, I tried for ages to use the mini keyboard as a separate input (rather than a keyboard) but then i realised that I dont actually need that many keys (depending on your level of immersion) so now i just use it exactly like a keyboard and the keys it replaces, they are either programmed to my emulator or I use the mouse.

 

I have to say though, the SP element is seriously lacking but I expect the ultimate dynamic campaign will be a live war through DCS world which will be, by its nature, more dynamic than any AI programme.

 

Get training pilot!

 

BTW - that mini keyboard works fekn great, I only created the stickers in powerpoint and superglued them on, I flicked the unused keys off and then used a peice of black card to blank out the removed keys. With the screen in perspective, the UFC and mini keyboard match.

Edited May 30, 2012 by Mr_Burns

[RpSPT]

BTW - that mini keyboard works fekn great, I only created the stickers in powerpoint and superglued them on, I flicked the unused keys off and then used a peice of black card to blank out the removed keys. With the screen in perspective, the UFC and mini keyboard match.

 

How did you get HID macros working with macros like shift+a. I am trying to get my second keyboard working as a CDU keyboard, but I am having problems. When I make macro ^<#<a for the second keyboard, on game it only presses A which engages autopilot.

[Mr_Burns]

Replied by PM but I could never get HID macros to work but with only the panels above, I had enough 'normal' keys available.

 

What you can do if you have 2 keyboards and a hotas is to set the mini keyboard or UFC in the options menu using whichever keys you want but with no multipliers, then whatever remaining controlls you need (there shouldnt be too many, the idea of hotas is you keep your hands on the throttle and stick during combat), set them using the pinky as a multiplier.

 

The rest of the time, you can use the mouse to point and click the buttons you need.

[RpSPT]

I am currently using numpad as CDU numeric keys, but during Jtac you have to write coordinates for example GG301317 and during that I have to press LCtrl + LWin + GG. I would prefer to have a second keyboard for CDU writing to be able to write with one hand. I`ll make a thread for this matter. It might be possible to work with latencies in Hid Macros to make it work. It is the same thing with Saitek software: with some macros it is necessary to use latency settings to get them work.

 

But I have noticed keyboard names changing after restart and it might be pain in the ass to get HID Macros to work properly.

 

Edit: I have now made the thread about this topic and also found solution that suits me. http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=98036

Edited November 23, 2012 by RpSPT

[Mr_Burns]

Can anyone help me out, im thinking about making a generic Data Input device or switch panel and I was after a 2.5" display. I came across one in China, details are:

 

http://www.good-display.com/products_detail/&productId=b5236f18-0cb0-4b14-b687-ba22b7ec2304&comp_stats=comp-FrontProducts_list01-004.html

 

 

It doesnt say if it comes with connectors but gives all the pinouts so I could make my own, do you think it would work to export say the CDU display from A-10 via a component to video converter?

 

 

Appreciate any advice, been quoted USD$37 each for these.

[Mr_Burns]

Details

 

1. Profile:

GD24TWD RD001 2.5" color TFT LCD Module is composed of JD24TWD RD001 driver board

and 2.5" TFT display: GTC24AC112. This module provides users with CVBS/VIDEO signal input and

automatic identifying and converting of NTSC/PAL systems, built-in OSD (on-screen display) function,

and the OSD menu offers adjustment of brightness, contrast and color. DC/ DC & LED Backlight Driver

& Video Decoder All In One,

 

Application:

● Office electronic equipment

● Apparatus & measurement appliance

● Machinery

● Audiovisual（Display for car、Portable DVD player、Long-distance terminal player）

● Home appliance（Video door phone、Video telephone, Digital Camera

 

3. Main Parameter:

 

• Product name：2.5" TFT-LCD module
  
• Module Model ：GD24TWD RD001
  
• 2.5" TFT LCD display: GTC24AC112-Rev.01
  
• Backlight：LED
  
• Resolution：480（H）X 234（V）
  
• View angle（U/D/L/R）：（10/30/40/40）
  
• Luminance：250 cd/m2
  
• System：PAL/NTSC (automatic identifying and converting)
  
• Signal input: CVBS/VIDEO
  
• Single Operation Voltage: DC12.0V or DC5.0V
  
• Active Area(mm):48.0(H)×35.685(V)
  
• Outside dimension of display(mm):55.2(W)×47.55(H)×2.9(D)
  
• Structural dimension of PCBA(mm):50.0(W)×50.0(H)×7.0(D)
  
• Operation te mp er ature.-10°C+60°C
  
• Relative humid.5it~y95% RH
  
• Storage te mp er ature.-20°C~+70°C
  

[Duckling]

Hi Burnsy. I checked the link just breifly. As far I could readout it runs on a PAL/NTCS input and the pin-out should be working to connect as long your PC can provide a signal as such.

(if others has any input there please correct :-)

 

The size though2.5" and in a wide layout is a bit odd and very small to use as for the CDU but it is oc depending on the panel and planning.

I'd recommend go by a 3.5-4 inch 4:3 display or possibly larger (even 4" is small compared with the info to be crammed into that area ;-b )

 

I run my CDU on a LCD very like this, removed the frame and pinned it under the CDU:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/170572838758?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 

and connect to it through a secondary low-cost VGA GraphicCard via a:

http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/m3Gde5rzhTlXuE4UKYMO3jA.jpg

 

(Note that you need a 12V powersupply for that LCD)

 

 

Using PeterPs export scripts and SoftTH for screen export and it works great. Some adjustment needed within SoftTH config but it's rather easy

 

Cheers

Gus

Edited December 14, 2012 by Duckling

[Mr_Burns]

Thanks for your response, I was thinking this morning i wouldnt be able to read 2.5" I was attempting to make a panel like the typhoon mdep (?) its like a UFC but on the Left Hand Glare sheild so it isnt really a CDU but then i want the pit adaptable to A10C and future a/c.

 

Perhaps I will change the panel to suit a bigger input.

 

[metalnwood]

I got this one from good display. It is almost the same size as the a10 cdu. Same width and I think around 5mm short on height of the a10 display.

 

GD40M05-GTM040HS

 

It worked well and I used the same generic vga-> composite box that duckling has.