Strix Posted September 29, 2011 Posted September 29, 2011 What's your username in World of Tanks? I play too. DrStrix Is my name in WoT Win 10 64. GTX1080 ti 11 Gb, Intel i-5, 16 Gb ram, SSD 1,5 Tb, 2 Terrabyte HD, Monitor ASUS XG32V 144Hz, Slaw Milans Rudder Pedals BF109F :thumbup:, Joystick - HOTAS Warthog, Throttle - HOTAS Warthog, TrackIR V5. Pimax 5.
Ragtop Posted September 30, 2011 Author Posted September 30, 2011 Progress is a little slow at the moment! I've been too lazy haha. I'm going to go and get some more wood this afternoon to finish off the blank panels and sides, and the consoles will then be ready for paint! I also ordered my Leo Bodnar board just now too, so I'll be able to start with wiring some panels up! 476th vFG Alumni
Ragtop Posted October 3, 2011 Author Posted October 3, 2011 Electrical Panel Wired up the electrical panel just now, and amazingly (I'm a total newbie to electronics, much like carpentry!) it works! Initially I had a problem with the switches not sending a release to the sim, as I was trying to set it directly in the DCS controls. However the ever helpful Gadroc suggested using Helios to assign the switches, which works absolutely flawlessly. I'm going to get the rest of the panels cut out now and screw them down, but this will be the only wired panel for the time being. I'd like to get the Lighting panel done but I'm going to need to figure out using potentiometers with the BU0836X. Any guidance on that one would be awesome. I need to make a decision with regards to the fuel panel, buy another Bodnar for the other side, or just use long wires under the ACES II when I build it to reach the one in the right console. 476th vFG Alumni
Gadroc Posted October 3, 2011 Posted October 3, 2011 Looks good. Using the pots with the bodnar board is easy. The pot will show up as an axis on the joystick and you can map them directly in DCS. As a quick note you can use a common ground with the bodnar board buttons. That means you can run one ground wire from the board and just run the ground from switch to switch. This can help with wire management since it cuts the number of wires running from the panel by nearly half. 1
Ragtop Posted October 3, 2011 Author Posted October 3, 2011 Thanks again Gadroc, I actually found a thread of Tigersharks' in which Fael097 covered exactly what you just said, so it looks like that'll be an easy enough job. I did consider using a common ground, of course I had to for the SPDT switch, but I decided against it for now as I'd have had to solder in order to do the earth wires. I might look into that when it gets a bit more spaghetti, but for now it's not so bad. What pot would you say is best, 100K Ohm? 476th vFG Alumni
jvanes Posted October 3, 2011 Posted October 3, 2011 That's sweet! .. somtin i want to do for my pit too. Kinda scary for a noob on electronics like me. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
Ragtop Posted October 3, 2011 Author Posted October 3, 2011 How weird, I came on here to ask you a question! Haha. You'd be amazed at how easy it is to wire up switches! I was really nervous, as I've NEVER done anything like it. I literally pushed in the wires, fitted the little spade adaptors, and pushed them on. There was absolutely no setting up required for the computer to see them, and I used Helios to bind the switches to the sim. Now, my question for you! Haha. A few bits about your pits paint job. First, I assume it's all MDF? Did you prime it first? Brush or spray cans? I'm about ready to paint but I don't want the wood to absorb all the paint and go soft and get ruined, so I want to find the best way to paint it. 476th vFG Alumni
MTFDarkEagle Posted October 3, 2011 Posted October 3, 2011 The best way is indeed to use a primer. Lukas - "TIN TIN" - 9th Shrek Air Strike Squadron TIN TIN's Cockpit thread
jvanes Posted October 3, 2011 Posted October 3, 2011 I used a MDF primer. Finish is much smoother and yes MDF absorbes. I used a roller (or how do you call this) for the big surfaces and a brush in the corners. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
MTFDarkEagle Posted October 3, 2011 Posted October 3, 2011 Yes if we are talking MDF it's CERTAINLY preferable to use a MDF primer! MDF sucks like hell! Lukas - "TIN TIN" - 9th Shrek Air Strike Squadron TIN TIN's Cockpit thread
Ragtop Posted October 3, 2011 Author Posted October 3, 2011 Thanks guys, I'll hunt down some MDF primer later on then! 476th vFG Alumni
Strix Posted October 3, 2011 Posted October 3, 2011 Your wiring is much nicer then mine! Mine looks like a child have done it :helpsmilie: And me a noob when it comes to pots! How do you do it? What do I need? I use a GP-Wiz40 usb board! And I can use a joystick on it. You know any tread that make all clear for a noob? Win 10 64. GTX1080 ti 11 Gb, Intel i-5, 16 Gb ram, SSD 1,5 Tb, 2 Terrabyte HD, Monitor ASUS XG32V 144Hz, Slaw Milans Rudder Pedals BF109F :thumbup:, Joystick - HOTAS Warthog, Throttle - HOTAS Warthog, TrackIR V5. Pimax 5.
Succellus Posted October 3, 2011 Posted October 3, 2011 About painting MDF ... Itdoesn t deform when getting soaked by paint ? Oris this a special paint. HaF 922, Asus rampage extreme 3 gene, I7 950 with Noctua D14, MSI gtx 460 hawk, G skill 1600 8gb, 1.5 giga samsung HD. Track IR 5, Hall sensed Cougar, Hall sensed TM RCS TM Warthog(2283), TM MFD, Saitek pro combat rudder, Cougar MFD.
Deadman Posted October 3, 2011 Posted October 3, 2011 I just primed up a bunch of MDF trim for the house normal 123 Bullseye worked fine. http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=217 https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824 CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.
MTFDarkEagle Posted October 3, 2011 Posted October 3, 2011 Yes: just prime it once (some places twice if need be, i.e. if it's still sucking up the primer), and than (depending on the primer colour and the paint colour) go over it with your paint. If the primer has a similar colour to the actual paint, you can probably make do with once over, if the colours are different you might need to do it twice. Lukas - "TIN TIN" - 9th Shrek Air Strike Squadron TIN TIN's Cockpit thread
Ragtop Posted October 3, 2011 Author Posted October 3, 2011 Some real progress! Thanks for the painting advice guys, it looks like that'll be underway tomorrow! Progress tonight has been HUGE, so I'm in a great mood! I managed to find a seat which will be an indefinite solution to an ACES II replica. I'd love to do it but I think in the long run, this is less work, more comfortable and less expensive, so I think I'll just look into covering it with some black fleece to look a little more authentic, but for now, I'm a happy camper! Next was a solution for the stick base, which came in the form of an MDF plinth for the TM:WH to sit on. I looked into extensions but I don't like the way they make the spring so loose, I'd need to increase spring strength etc which for me is a crime on such a beautifully made stick. I need to finish the floor, but that'll get put in when it all comes out for painting. I used the cabinet my PC used to live in as my monitor stand, and it also makes a great place for the pedals to sit, so again, I was lucky with the fit of that one! I can't wait to get it all painted, I think it's going to make such a huge transformation to the entire installation, so keep checking back for when that happens! But for now, as always, some images! 476th vFG Alumni
HitchHikingFlatlander Posted October 3, 2011 Posted October 3, 2011 You didn't kick a kid out to "commandeer" a room did you now? LOL Looking good! http://dcs-mercenaries.com/ USA Squad
Strix Posted October 4, 2011 Posted October 4, 2011 Yeah! Great work! Nice safety harness's to so u don't fall of the seat! Win 10 64. GTX1080 ti 11 Gb, Intel i-5, 16 Gb ram, SSD 1,5 Tb, 2 Terrabyte HD, Monitor ASUS XG32V 144Hz, Slaw Milans Rudder Pedals BF109F :thumbup:, Joystick - HOTAS Warthog, Throttle - HOTAS Warthog, TrackIR V5. Pimax 5.
Ragtop Posted October 5, 2011 Author Posted October 5, 2011 Been a bit lazier today, but nonetheless, steps in the right direction! Got the floor built, fixed the stick base a little better, rudders screwed down into the floor and cabinet. I also got the blank panels screwed down for a test fit. Starting work on cuts for the top panels on the right console, over time I'll be adding to these. I think I'll tackle the fuel panel next so I can get the plane started up without using the mouse. Ideally I'll get to the point where the mouse is used as little as possible during SOP's. I never got round to painting today as I've still got a little bit more work to do in getting all the shapes right first, I don't want to paint then do more cutting, as it'll just need painting again, however I think the frames and floor are ready for the grey, then I'll get to the panels after. 476th vFG Alumni
Ragtop Posted October 5, 2011 Author Posted October 5, 2011 Morning Update Little update before I leave for work, hunted around for something to make a Dzus spacer out of, and all this time it had been sat in my cupboard. The trusty Meccano spacer! I sized it up, and it literally could not be a better fit. I'm ordering a load of black ones from a spares website now, all I need to do is drill a countersink in them for the screw head. Right now I could only find phillips head screws, but to be honest it's not a deal breaker for the now. 476th vFG Alumni
avlolga Posted October 5, 2011 Posted October 5, 2011 Ragtop nice progress, regarding to Switching - i found this site with nice pricing and huge selection https://www.elfa.se/elfa3~eu_en/elfa/init.do?item=35-238-18&toc=20340 i am looking for "LOCKING LEVERS" switch in reasonable price can someone send link to some sites ?
Ragtop Posted October 5, 2011 Author Posted October 5, 2011 Thanks for the link. I haven't seen any my self but I know someone over at Viperpits.org made some non functional switch tops to make normal toggles look more like safety ones! 476th vFG Alumni
-Ice Posted October 5, 2011 Posted October 5, 2011 Hello Ragtop! I've just bought some seats so I'm looking to build my cockpit as well. Your build progress is looking very good! Can you confirm what materials have you used? Specifically, MDF board thickness, and can you confirm that this is the toggle switch you're using? Thanks! - Ice
Ragtop Posted October 5, 2011 Author Posted October 5, 2011 (edited) These are the toggle switches I'm using, they work very well. All my other supplies are from Wickes. I'm using 18mm MDF for the primary consoles, along with 19x32mm softwood for the rails and side supports, however you might consider using plywood for the ribs and ends of the consoles, as MDF split on me a couple of times. It's still VERY solid, but something to be aware of. My panels are made from 6mm MDF in 2 layers, one for the switch plate and one for the top covers, however if I were to do it again I'd use 3mm for the top, as the switches don't protrude as much as I'd like through 6mm. The side covers are also 6mm MDF. The blanking plates are made from 12mm MDF. Here's a picture I made to plan your cuts from the 18mm MDF/Plywood. It allows for best efficiency when using a standard size 2440x607x18mm/2x 1220x607x18mm sheet from Wickes. You might consider measuring each panel 1mm larger however, to account for saw width, a mistake I made which left me with a variation of ±1mm in a couple of areas. Not a crisis but enough to require a bit of rejiggering now and then! With this and the 19x32mm rails you'll end up here. Edited October 5, 2011 by Ragtop 476th vFG Alumni
Recommended Posts