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Who is intrested in panel knobs replicas


Who is intrested in panel knobs replicas  

18 members have voted

  1. 1. Who is intrested in panel knobs replicas

    • None
      0
    • Knobs for one or two panels please post the panel names
      0
    • A partial set
    • Full set


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Posted

I would like to end up with one gray set and one black set.

However, if you decide to cast them all in gray to keep it simple on your end, I can always paint them black.

 

for your original questions

 

Your Q - Do you want to wait and purchase a complete set all at once:

A - All at once is fine for me. I would be ok with splitting it into 2 shipments but probably no more than that.

 

Your Q - Do you want the knobs drilled for their shaft holes?

Your Q - Do you want the knobs drilled for set screws?

negative on that for me, I have the equipment to do it myself. Also, I have no idea yet which knobs will need which shaft size, my electronics are mix and match some 1/8 some 1/4 some 6mm.

Posted (edited)

I can wait you finish, I want to buy full set knoks.

 

I think some instrument such as IFF is using black color knoks and some instrument is using Gray. I want to buy original color knoks for them

 

however, if you can make, please count me full set, And the install size I have no idea, since I have no anything now

 

On the other hand, please provide or introduce rotary switches and potentiometers for each knoks

 

Thanks DM

Edited by Tomb
Posted

HI Tomb here a re a couple of answers.I had not planed on making the IFF knobs but can they would be much more expensive the flat or labeled part would need to be laser printed to be of any use and there is normal an IFF panel on eBay every couple of month. So I really don't see a need for them

 

If you read my cockpit thread you will find the switch, rotary, and potentiometer part numbers i have listed.

 

I can wait you finish, I want to buy full set knoks.

 

I think some instrument such as IFF is using black color knoks and some instrument is using Gray. I want to buy original color knoks for them

 

however, if you can make, please count me full set, And the install size I have no idea, since I have no anything now

 

On the other hand, please provide or introduce rotary switches and potentiometers for each knoks

 

Thanks DM

  • Like 1

https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824

CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.

Posted

Hy Deadman.

 

I dont remember if i answered to poll so i write here to tell you that i'm interested in a full set.

 

And like y2kiah (Pasted his answers ... :music_whistling:)

 

Your Q - Do you want to wait and purchase a complete set all at once:

A - All at once is fine for me. I would be ok with splitting it into 2 shipments but probably no more than that.

 

Your Q - Do you want the knobs drilled for their shaft holes?

Your Q - Do you want the knobs drilled for set screws?

negative on that for me, I have the equipment to do it myself. Also, I have no idea yet which knobs will need which shaft size, my electronics are mix and match some 1/8 some 1/4 some 6mm.

Posted (edited)

These are the original knobs.I have removed all of the paint because when you cast some thing you get every detail good or bad, IMHO casting things with chipped pant or that have been damage is a waist of time and money. So it should be warm tomorrow so i can spray a light coat of paint on some to smooth them out. then i will start casting if the silicone does not stink i can work in the office. Then wait 24 hours for the silicon to set and demoed the originals and see how bad the resin smells. To cast some black and gray knobs to start

Edited by Deadman

https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824

CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.

Posted (edited)

I really like what I see! :thumbup:

 

From my experience silicone shoudn't be a "smelly" problem. However, resin is a totally differend matter....

 

There are some nice youtube tutorials on casting that have usefull remarks (regarding the influence of water for example) like this one:

 

 

If you are going to cast more complex shapes than just knobs, then I found the following tutorial over at the replica props forum from someone who does this quite a lot with amazing results:

You generally pressure cast hard resin parts to remove bubbles not vacuum, unless you use a real slow resin there simply isn't enough time to degas most casting resins...

 

Now with a slow resin, you can degas, it prior to pouring this will remove most suspended bubbles, but won't help after you pour into the mold and introduce more suspended air or create air pocket voids, this is where the pressure casting comes into play...

 

Ideally if you are anal;

 

1. You create a mold with a top reservoir that can hold 3-4 times the volume of resin used for the mold...

2. You use a very, very slow setting resin...

3. You vacuum degas the resin after fully mixing...

4. You pour the degassed resin into the mold carefully, to about 5-10% overfill...

5. You again vacuum degas the resin while in the mold...

6. This causes the resin to expand about 3-4 times it's volume, thus the necessity to have the top reservoir to accommodate the expanding resin...

7. You then remove the vacuum in the tank, and return back to normal atmosphere, about 15-15 PSI... this alone squishes most bubbles to microscopic...

8. You then pressurize the tank to 50-80 PSI...

9. And hold that pressure in the tank until the resin has fully cured...

10. The 5-10% overfill of the mold will gives you a little buffer for resin that sticks to the sides of the reservoir, leaks or whatever so that you are not short when you slam in the air pressure...

11. Presto a near perfect air free casting...

 

Most people just skip to step 8...

 

Degassing for most is generally to remove entrapped air in mixed silicone prior to pouring... Not for casting purposes...

 

On a side note, if you are pressure casting you should ideally also cure the silicone at the same PSI when molding that you will use when you pressure cast, this way if there is any entrapped air it will be normalized and reduce any distortions in the mold... Hardly an issue if the silicone is degassed well, but if there is a big air bubble trapped in a mold while it's under 80 PSI iot will distort the surrounding area, as it's compressed smaller...

 

 

Cheers,

Stefan

Edited by Dropship Pilot
Posted

Hi DM.

Just checked your thread and couldn't (allmost :-) belive it..

Can I add a request for just 2 copies of the ARC-186 channel select wheel ?

That piece must be one of the hardest to find.

 

Cheers

Gus

- - - -

Posted

HI Duck Yes it is but I am trying to figure out how to make it I think I will have to have y2kiah do some laser engraving for me so these will be custom order and a bit more expensive than some people will pay. I was lucky to get the thumb wheel separated from the base so it is cast able and i have the gear system so it is doable it comes down to cost as all ways.

https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824

CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.

Posted

Moken I am not sure what you mean. :(:doh:

When the molds are done and i am ready to sell knobs I will post it I can tell you payments will be through Pay pal to confirmed address only . So stay tune as soon as i am producing quality knobs they will be sold

https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824

CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.

Posted (edited)

Really Thank you so much,

 

if you ready , please PM me.

 

I see your quality excellent good :thumbup:

Edited by moken
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