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Posted

This doesn't always happen but quite regularly. Sometimes it happens with the left throttle and sometimes with the right. When I take a throttle out of the detent to start up an engine it move the APU switch to off and the APU shuts down. Is there anyway to find out whats going on? Or has any other TM owners had this? thx!

Posted

Unfortunately, that sounds like a an actual short inside the base. Given the proximity of the throttle and the APU switch it seems quite possible.

 

I don't recall hearing about that one before.

 

I would probably pop it open myself before sending it back to TM but there is that warranty issue to consider.

 

EDIT: Can you duplicate it in Windows control panel or in Target?

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Posted (edited)

Thx for the reply. I tried testing it in windows and it all looks good. It shows button 29 and 30 as being the button when i bring the throttle levers into the start position and after about 20 tries I do not see the button 20 (which is the apu) lighting up one bit. any other suggestions? thz!

Edited by chief
Posted

Are you aware that the APU "fails" if you try and start the engine too soon? I had problems starting the engines with my TM warthog kit and thought WTF! but noo...it was me. Can I suggest the following:

Follow the normal start up process but before attempting to move the left engine from off to idle wait maybe a minute (as in 60 seconds). Hopefully you will find that sorts the issue for you. The APU is like a jump start - it needs to build up a charge like a capacitor (this is all guess work on my behalf! but having found a similar problem as you. perhaps it'll help!). Take note of the APU and engine dials and gauges. The engine guage won't go past a certain level if you try and start it before the APU is "ready". excuse the poorly worded explaination. I hope it helps. Let me know how you go. Good luck. The other obvious place to look would be your key/axis mapping. Cheers

Science doesn't have all the answers...but at least it's asking the right questions!

 

I7 Ivy 2.8 Ghz | 20 GB | GTX - 580 | 24" Dell Monitor | Cougar MFD X2 | 4 Lilliput 8" touch screens | Saitek Cessna pedals | TM Warthog HOTAS | Helios

Posted

sounds like a hardware fault if the button is not returning a signal through the o/s controller properties, if you still have right of return on the unit then use it and get a replacement

 

if not then contact Thrustmaster and see what can be done, perhaps a new switch?

Action After Contemplation

Posted

Hey guys. Thx for the responses. So what I did was reassign the app switch on my TM to the fuel switch just above the apu (can't recall what it's called, I think it's the one that has the override). So now when I start the right engine the fuel switch gets moved which tells me it's a hardware issue. FRIG TM, I just got this thing and now I gotta send it back!

Posted

Many things to concider before opening or shipping the Warthog back, for now calm down ...you guys are seeing nuclear bombs hehe.

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Posted

Have you tried motoring the engine before moving it past the detent? I'm not sure if this is the problem, but the procedure I follow after proper APU startup is left engine to motor - wait for the rpm to come up - move left throttle past detent - left engine to NORM, repeat the same for the right engine. I apologize if this is off topic, or if I misunderstood.

Posted (edited)
it move the APU switch to off and the APU shuts down

I feel your pain!

 

My L ENG OPER switch has stared to flick to MOTOR without my consent. My strategy for the first few days was to ignore the problem ...This didn't work

 

I ended up using a trick I learned in the guitar repair bussiness. It's brilliant, you just sit there and flick the switch back and forth really fast :D It worked, go figure...although I'm worried that it's not a permanent solution. Well back to pretending that I won't have to exchange my TM warthog for the second time

Edited by SmokeyTheLung

System specifications: Computer, joystick, DCS world, Beer

Posted

Operating the switch repeatedly like that can remove dirt from the contact surfaces and actually be a longish-term solution, IME.

Win10 x64 | SSDs | i5 2500K @ 4.4 GHz | 16 GB RAM | GTX 970 | TM Warthog HOTAS | Saitek pedals | TIR5

Posted

Well i removed the base plate and if you take a boo inside you can clearly see tht the hrottle should in no way conflict with the apu switch. Its really impossible. So not sure what s going on there. Back she goes to TM.

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