P1KW Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 (edited) If you drive your car to 120 km / h, (please do not try it) and try to brake smoothly, using the leg, instead of the foot, you will find it impossible to get a smooth braking. This is the reason why many helicopter pilots felt uncomfortable with the typical fixed-wing rudder pedals. We need the precision that gives the foot and at the same time be able bring the pedal to the extreme with sufficient agility. For that reason real helicopters rudder pedals are more together, with less travel, and actuated by the foot, not leg. Based on an idea of Javisim, Helibelula Patrol, I thought of the following mod for rudder pedals typical in simulation, Saitek, Logitech and CH. It has the drawback of using 3 hinges or joints and 1 bar, also lose the possibility of using the conventional way for aircraft. This design is much easier, and also maintains the option to use in fixed wing simply turning the pedals. The inconvenience is the friction between the actuator and the end of the pedal, although the tests work very well. And this is what I mean perfect, add bearings, or some rollers on the top of the pedal to eliminate friction. It's more complicated but is the goal. I hope soon to be putting practical examples with Saitek rudder and the G940 rudder pedals. :thumbup: Greetings!!! Edited August 5, 2012 by P1KW "If adventure is dangerous, try the routine. It is deadly." Paulo Coelho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P1KW Posted August 4, 2012 Author Share Posted August 4, 2012 Well, I add a photo (sorry, low quality) with a practical example in the G940 pedals. Although it can be applied to the pedals from Saitek. I have not used bearing or similar. The friction is not relevant. The angle of the platform is very important, depends on the position of his leg in his cockpit, but extended almost vertically, and with more leg flexed greater angle of inclination on the platform. The assembly is very simple, especially if you already have made the platforms, as was my case. The control is quite different, much more precise. Now I can make a coordinated turn with stability at the Ka-50, but I must start learning from the beginning. Greetings! "If adventure is dangerous, try the routine. It is deadly." Paulo Coelho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panthro Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 its a good idea what are you going to use between the 2 sets of pedals. wouldnt it be better to lock the sliding action of the pedals, then you could use the toe brakes, possibly even mod the pedal face to slide up so it is pivoting at the heel as I assume this is your aim? [sIGPIC]http://forums.eagle.ru/signaturepics/sigpic86362_2.gif[/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P1KW Posted August 5, 2012 Author Share Posted August 5, 2012 (edited) its a good idea what are you going to use between the 2 sets of pedals. wouldnt it be better to lock the sliding action of the pedals, then you could use the toe brakes, possibly even mod the pedal face to slide up so it is pivoting at the heel as I assume this is your aim? Lock the slide (if I understand correctly) and use the differential brakes is an option, but has the disadvantage that the toe brakes can be operated simultaneously, but the rudder pedals in a helicopter balance pedal on the pedal opposite. You would have to modify the behavior of the two main axes to turn into one. I think my solution is the most simple and effective, but I appreciate your comment. :smilewink: Greetings! Edit: Add a small video. Edited August 5, 2012 by P1KW "If adventure is dangerous, try the routine. It is deadly." Paulo Coelho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P1KW Posted August 27, 2012 Author Share Posted August 27, 2012 Hi guys, a update. I put two videos (poor quality, sorry) with the latest update. The old system was fine by the extreme simplicity of the assembly. But (there's always "buts") had several ideas that pushed me to improve. The 1st, the need to turn them over for use in a conventional manner. My poor table, long since not table, cockpit is, thus, to get under them around was a nuisance. 1st solution = to 1 disadvantage. G940 pedals are close together, more like a helicopter than a plane. As I mounted the helicopter to the sides of the plane that had left me to go together separate (heli) and vice versa (aircraft) but hey, it's a minor inconvenience. The 2nd improvement was the angle of the pedals. In the original cut, the foot was returning too upright, it was pretty easy to fix, but here comes the 3rd improvement ... The 3rd. Spring, friction and backlash. The bad (good) was opened to remove the dock and discovered that the main axis pivots on a bearing. With the previous system operated by friction, (actually totally acceptable) and "eating up" the slack pivot system differential brake, also negligible. But I'm sure in a real helicopter there is zero backlash, and since departed center bearing, homemade rods did you see in the video. 4 bearings, 4 hose clamps and threaded rod 6 mm, very homely. The idea was to transmit directly from my foot to the central bearing, frictionless, and without gaps. To act with the rods I had to replace the original screw on pivoting brake differential by other longest, is the only (easily reversible) modifications to the original pedals. The connecting rod system, and the angle of the pedals helo, has forced me to mount these more advanced than the pedal plane, another minor inconvenience. Finally the spring, the spring of discord. Ah! And the viscosity of the yaw axis. The original spring G940 is about 5 cm in diameter and 2 laps. When you push the right foot, tense the 1st round, and with the other foot backwards, turn opposite the spring. The downside is that there is a point at rest center, good for fixed wing, but bad for helos ... I also wanted to outsource the spring, that is, put it and remove it from the outside, in this, the solution has been by chance, with no preconceived idea of how I would do it. I put two springs longitudinals in each pedal, with only one strain is very soft, it is perceived more as viscosity, and there is a slight indication of the central point (well to compensate for the Ka-50) but not perceived step through the center, great for helicopters. It is equivalent to not using spring. With two put springs, tension is greater, not excessive, and the central point is clear and definite. Although a single spring serves perfectly, is the choice for fixed wing. And that's it. The truth is that I had a hard time the issue of the rods, but have been great, looking like "monster", but very smooth and precise mechanical level. One more point, G940 pedals have no own electronics, another substantial improvement has been not connect to joy, I have connected to Leo Bodnar card type, in a panel that had only buttons. I've gone from 256 to 4096 steps. Greetings! "If adventure is dangerous, try the routine. It is deadly." Paulo Coelho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P1KW Posted November 28, 2012 Author Share Posted November 28, 2012 Updated for hydraulic touch. Without central point. Conjunction with Peterp-Unchain the Rudder from Trim is perfect for the Ka-50. I have removed the springs and have replaced these two gas struts, 6 kg to move, but as both pulling with equal force to the central axis those 6 kg is "poised". To achieve a viscosity uniform along the entire route the dampers are not fully open or fully closed at the respective ends of travel. There is no central point, I can put the springs for fixed wing, although I think with that viscosity is not necessary. The feeling is of extreme viscosity, as acting on a hydraulic system. Very similar to a assisted steering but something harder. The accuracy in the simulator, tested in BS1 and X-Plane, is much improved, it can move very progressive and entirely impossible to make small involuntary movements. At 0:53 move with little finger attempt to illustrate the force required to move the pedals, impossible. The video, a summary of the different options that I have managed to G940 pedals. Greetings! "If adventure is dangerous, try the routine. It is deadly." Paulo Coelho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P1KW Posted January 22, 2013 Author Share Posted January 22, 2013 A update, less backlash and more robustness. In testing phase. Duality is lost, only helicopter. Greetings! Thank you very much the magician Peterp, by doing this: How to unchain the rudder from trim "If adventure is dangerous, try the routine. It is deadly." Paulo Coelho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MA_Goblin Posted January 22, 2013 Share Posted January 22, 2013 Very nice work there :) [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] _____________Semper paratus, In hoc signo vinces________________ PC: Intel i7-8700K (4.9 GHz), Aorus Ultra Gaming Z370 MB, Gigabyte RTX 3080, 32 GB DDR3 (3,2 GHz), Samsung EVO 860 M.2 500 GB SSD + Samsung 960 M.2 250 GB SSD Gaming: Virpil T-50 CM2, TM WH Throttle, Crosswind pedals, HP Reverb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ninefingers Posted January 22, 2013 Share Posted January 22, 2013 Nice mod and impressive looking ! :thumbup: Good work P1Kw My TM Warthog DIY extension tutorial C2Duo E8600 @ 4.4Ghz. | Asus Rampage Formula X48 | MSI GTX 560Ti OC | 8Gb.Corsair DDR2 RAM @ 1103Mhz. | Crucial M4 128Gb. SSD | 850W. PSU | HOTAS Warthog | Saitek Pedals | TIR 5 | Helios | 24" Monitor/22" Touchscreen [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P1KW Posted January 27, 2013 Author Share Posted January 27, 2013 (edited) For just left. Regarding the last pictures I changed the pedals (the bike) for a metal pedals, in the previous photo, despite being firmly attached, the black (plastic) allowed some lateral movement. Without spring, without a center. Touch is hydraulic, viscous. Greetings. Edited January 27, 2013 by P1KW Correct "If adventure is dangerous, try the routine. It is deadly." Paulo Coelho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacques Lees Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 Nice work in there!! But if your goal is to mimic a helo anti torque pedals what about turning your out pointing pedals inward, to let them facing each other so you have a closer pedals which is more resembling the real thing? It's good to see your simple idea evolves over time, happy flying !! Однажды испытав полет, ты будешь обречен ходить по земле с глазами, обращенными в небо - туда, где ты был и куда ты всегда будешь стремиться вернуться. - Leonardo Da Vinci [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jib Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 This mod looks so cool. My G940 peddles always give me knee ache after an hour or so. This wider stance looks more comfortable as well as being cool! Mods I use: KA-50 JTAC - Better Fire and Smoke - Unchain Rudder from trim KA50 - Sim FFB for G940 - Beczl Rocket Pods Updated! Processor: Intel Q6600 @ 3.00GHz GPU: GeForce MSI RTX 2060 6GB RAM: Crucial 8GB DDR2 HDD: 1TBGB Crucial SSD OS: Windows 10, 64-bit Peripherals: Logitech G940 Hotas, TrackiR 5, Voice Activated commands , Sharkoon 5.1 headset. ,Touch Control for iPad, JoyToKey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P1KW Posted February 11, 2013 Author Share Posted February 11, 2013 A simplified version. The pneumatic pistons are 60 N (Newton), but excessive force, the ideal would be 40 N. But only had these pistons ... To change the axis screws (M8) of the differential brakes; You have to remove the bottom cover. Remove the wheel friction adjustment. The nut, lock nut, and spring. Remove the top cover. No need to remove the foot platforms. Remove the screw with which he replaced. The hardest thing is to machine a part, as the disc left in the 2nd picture. You have to join the M8 screw and piston kneecap. There may be different methods. Greetings! Nice work in there!! But if your goal is to mimic a helo anti torque pedals what about turning your out pointing pedals inward, to let them facing each other so you have a closer pedals which is more resembling the real thing? It's good to see your simple idea evolves over time, happy flying !! The problem is the center console that underlies the joystick, is about 20 cm wide, and is the one that defines the separation of my feet ... "If adventure is dangerous, try the routine. It is deadly." Paulo Coelho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jib Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 The problem is the center console that underlies the joystick, is about 20 cm wide, and is the one that defines the separation of my feet] You could do what I have done with my logitec G940 and cut the padding out of the Center of my chair and slotted it in so it is flush with the top of seat. I also extended the joystick a little. Mods I use: KA-50 JTAC - Better Fire and Smoke - Unchain Rudder from trim KA50 - Sim FFB for G940 - Beczl Rocket Pods Updated! Processor: Intel Q6600 @ 3.00GHz GPU: GeForce MSI RTX 2060 6GB RAM: Crucial 8GB DDR2 HDD: 1TBGB Crucial SSD OS: Windows 10, 64-bit Peripherals: Logitech G940 Hotas, TrackiR 5, Voice Activated commands , Sharkoon 5.1 headset. ,Touch Control for iPad, JoyToKey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeroperoDokkiri Posted March 31, 2014 Share Posted March 31, 2014 Guys I removed centering spring alltogether, but my pedals still seem to center themself. Is there another spring in the pot, or something? [sIGPIC]http://i55.tinypic.com/21oydlx.jpg[/sIGPIC] ヒューイ最高!o(≧∇≦o) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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