hokie17 Posted January 3, 2013 Posted January 3, 2013 I had some similar sized screws with flat heads instead of rounded. That should work, but since the end going into the handle won't connect, I'm stuck. Tried splicing my PS2 cable... can't get it to connect and I'm scared pins on the handle are going to end up breaking.
wolle Posted January 3, 2013 Posted January 3, 2013 I had some similar sized screws with flat heads instead of rounded. That should work, but since the end going into the handle won't connect, I'm stuck. Tried splicing my PS2 cable... can't get it to connect and I'm scared pins on the handle are going to end up breaking. Even if I take those screws out, the thread that goes into the base unit won't catch more than the first grove (and this first grove I have pretty much worn out by now) :cry: [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Intel Core I7 4820K @4.3 GHz, Asus P9X79 motherboard, 16 GB RAM @ 933 MHz, NVidia GTX 1070 with 8 GB VRAM, Windows 10 Pro
hokie17 Posted January 3, 2013 Posted January 3, 2013 Well I've given up for now... Zahry, if you're around, please pipe in.
agrasyuk Posted January 3, 2013 Posted January 3, 2013 The problem is the hole that it comes out of is not big enough to allow the extension cable to protrude sufficiently for a connection to the handle. that sounds like an issue that i experienced extending my stick (with gardena adapter and copper pipe). solution was simple - knife to the adaptor :music_whistling: had to thin it down almost down to the round contact Anton. My pit build thread . Simple and cheap UFC project
zahry Posted January 3, 2013 Author Posted January 3, 2013 Hi hookie, sorry about that, If the buttons are all active it means the cable is not connected or cables were broken. I have to shorten the original ps2 cable as it doesn't fit inside. I've tested all extensions after soldering with my joystick here and it was working but i wonder if i've managed to pull a cable or break it when i was putting it all togerther (it was about 3:30 am when i finished so it is possible). I'll flick you an email how to check it and if the cable is broken or damaged i'll send you experss new one - it's quite easy to change. 1
wolle Posted January 3, 2013 Posted January 3, 2013 Hi hookie, sorry about that, If the buttons are all active it means the cable is not connected or cables were broken. I have to shorten the original ps2 cable as it doesn't fit inside. I've tested all extensions after soldering with my joystick here and it was working but i wonder if i've managed to pull a cable or break it when i was putting it all togerther (it was about 3:30 am when i finished so it is possible). I'll flick you an email how to check it and if the cable is broken or damaged i'll send you experss new one - it's quite easy to change. Hi Zahrie, In my case, I didn't even get to test the extension electrically. This is because my extension doesn't mechanically fit. The female fitting at the bottom of the extension does not protrude enough to go over the male thread of the Warthog's base. It would have to be about three millimeters longer, the length it is now it only entends to the first groove of the thread. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Intel Core I7 4820K @4.3 GHz, Asus P9X79 motherboard, 16 GB RAM @ 933 MHz, NVidia GTX 1070 with 8 GB VRAM, Windows 10 Pro
zahry Posted January 3, 2013 Author Posted January 3, 2013 ok guys - found where the problem is. I didn't strip the female piece far enough (no giggling ;-) ) and I didn't pre-drill the holes for the new bigger screws (before I was using bolts with smaller head). Fix is quick and easy - Just uploading photos. All you need is a 7mm drill and sharp knife (7 mm drill is optional)
zahry Posted January 3, 2013 Author Posted January 3, 2013 So here it is - sorry about the slip up. That's how it looks at the moment - I left the black plastic too long. Cut the black part off (about 3mm back - the top of the square with the arrow inside is a good guide) And here is a final result. If you want to change the length of the extension in a future I would recommend the hot glue otherwise you can use strong glue. the bit should be protruding about 2mm try the extension and if you'll have still problems here is how to deal with the screws quickly and easily. All you need is a 7mm drill bit and use it to enlarge the hole for the screw head. You need to drill just about 3mm deep. It can be quite tricky as the drill likes to grab on the plastic and you can end up going bit deeper than you wanted so do it carefully please. http://www.simpit.co.nz/images/galeries/warthog/New/IMG_3424.JPG and final result if you'll have troubles with any of those two steps or something will go wrong with drilling or cutting let me know and I'll send you the new bits or cable. If by any chance you'll be changing the cable for your own make sure you enlarge the hole on female bit otherwise you will break off the plastic bit on your hand piece. Let me know if it helps - I'll be checking the forum frequently now
zahry Posted January 3, 2013 Author Posted January 3, 2013 Hi Zahrie, In my case, I didn't even get to test the extension electrically. This is because my extension doesn't mechanically fit. The female fitting at the bottom of the extension does not protrude enough to go over the male thread of the Warthog's base. It would have to be about three millimeters longer, the length it is now it only entends to the first groove of the thread. the female bit should be sliding up and down - can you check if it is stuck and if you can rotate it?
wolle Posted January 3, 2013 Posted January 3, 2013 the female bit should be sliding up and down - can you check if it is stuck and if you can rotate it? The female bit is sliding up and down, it is not stuck. But even in the positon where it is all the way forward, it is too short and can catch only the first groove of the male warthog-base thread. So, either the female bit is too short, or the plastic part that contains the electrical connector is too long (even with the bulky screws completely removed). In the meantime I have taken the extension apart into its individual components.The female bit consists of two parts that are bolted together with long thin screws. I separated the two parts by removing the screws, then I can of-course fully screw the lower half that has the thread on it onto the Warthog thread. Then I manualy plug in the electrical connector bit, then press the extension tube against it, and then slide the second part of the female bit all the way forward, but even in the all-the-way forward position there is a gap of several millimeters between it and the fully screwed on second part of the female bit that contains the thread. Again, the conclusion is the same: Either the female bit is too short, or the plastic part that contains the electrical connector is too long. Sorry for the complicated descriptions, I do not have a digital camera, unfortunately. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Intel Core I7 4820K @4.3 GHz, Asus P9X79 motherboard, 16 GB RAM @ 933 MHz, NVidia GTX 1070 with 8 GB VRAM, Windows 10 Pro
wolle Posted January 3, 2013 Posted January 3, 2013 Hokie17, Quick question to you (see my previous post). Does the bottom end of the extension mechanically fit the Warthog-base (i.e. can you screw the female bit all the way over the Warthog-base thread), and give you a mechanically firm connection? I am interested to find out if the problem I mentioned in my previous post is specific only to my extension, or not. Thanks, wolle [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Intel Core I7 4820K @4.3 GHz, Asus P9X79 motherboard, 16 GB RAM @ 933 MHz, NVidia GTX 1070 with 8 GB VRAM, Windows 10 Pro
hokie17 Posted January 3, 2013 Posted January 3, 2013 Good timing for you, I just got home from work and was working on my extension. :) Yes, my extension will screw onto the Warthog base. I replaced the rounded-head screws with flat-headed ones, though Zahry's tip about drilling it out a little bit should work if you don't have appropriate screws. The connection between the extension and the WH base is good. I'm working on getting the other end of the PS2 cable to protrude sufficiently for a connection to the handle. I have it protruding enough, I'm just waiting for my Gorilla Glue to dry.
hokie17 Posted January 3, 2013 Posted January 3, 2013 Well, I've got it working. All buttons respond properly. The only thing is when I removed the extension, the PS2 cable I had glued in popped loose. I'll have to get ahold of a hot glue gun and see if that works better than Gorilla Glue. I'll let you know, Zahry. If this doesn't work, I may need a new cable and connector.
metalnwood Posted January 3, 2013 Posted January 3, 2013 It's a cyanoacrylate based glue and is probably having a hard time getting the two plastics together. Probably the plastic on the lead is the issue. The hotglue would be better.
hokie17 Posted January 3, 2013 Posted January 3, 2013 Yeah, I'm pretty sure it's just not bonding the two plastics well. Hot glue should fill in all the cracks. I'll have to run and borrow my mom's glue gun. ;) No real rush though... I'm not sure I'm going to use this until my Obutto arrives at the end of the month.
RogueSqdn Posted January 3, 2013 Posted January 3, 2013 (edited) Well well I still have my original user name active, last used in 2005. Wow. I'll be using this name from now on. Zahry, the email address you have for me is still the same... I've had it for probably 6 years. .Mac is becoming a rare address to have anymore. ;) Edited January 3, 2013 by RogueSqdn DEFENSOR FORTIS Spoiler Systems: Falcon NW Talon: Ryzen 9 5950X @4.9GHz, 64GB DDR4, RTX 3090 FE; Falcon NW Mach V: Core i7 3930K @3.2GHz, 32GB DDR3, GTX 1080 FE Cockpit: MonsterTech MTX F, 42" 4K TV, HP Reverb G2, Oculus Rift S, PointCTRL Controls: RS F16SGRH CE, RS F18CGRH, VPC T-50CM2, VFX, WarBRD (Grips); VPC T-50CM2, RS FSSB R3L (Bases); Winwing F/A-18C, VPC T-50CM3, VPC T-50CM, TM Warthog, Cougar (Throttles); VPC ACE2 (Rudders)
wolle Posted January 3, 2013 Posted January 3, 2013 Dear Zahry (same post as before now with pictures: The female bit is sliding up and down, it is not stuck. But even in the positon where it is all the way forward, it is too short and can catch only the first groove of the male warthog-base thread. So, either the female bit is too short, or the plastic part that contains the electrical connector is too long (even with the bulky screws completely removed). In the meantime I have taken the extension apart into its individual components.The female bit consists of two parts that are bolted together with long thin screws. I separated the two parts by removing the screws, then I can of-course fully screw the lower half that has the thread on it onto the Warthog thread. Then I manualy plug in the electrical connector bit, then press the extension tube against it, and then slide the second part of the female bit all the way forward, but even in the all-the-way forward position there is a gap of several millimeters between it and the fully screwed on second part of the female bit that contains the thread. Again, the conclusion is the same: Either the female bit is too short, or the plastic part that contains the electrical connector is too long. The attached pictures show: "bareWarthog" Just the bare Warthog base-uniot thread "lowerFemaleBit" The lower part of the sliding female bit described above screwed onto the Warthog base-unit "Electrical Connector" The electrical connector plugged in (from the ease with which I can connect and disconnect it, I doubt it makes electrical contact with the warthog plug) "ExtensionTube" The extension tube sitting on top of the plastic part that contains the connector. "GapLeft" I now pushed the upper part of the sliding female bit as far down as it goes, and the picture shows the gap left between the upper and lower female bit. If I close the gap by screwing the lower female bit less far onto the Warthog base, it only catches the first groove of the Warthog base-unit thread. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Intel Core I7 4820K @4.3 GHz, Asus P9X79 motherboard, 16 GB RAM @ 933 MHz, NVidia GTX 1070 with 8 GB VRAM, Windows 10 Pro
zahry Posted January 4, 2013 Author Posted January 4, 2013 (edited) Hi Wolle, Looks like there might be something going on. At the first glance it looks as it should but just in case can you check the following lengths? Edited January 4, 2013 by zahry
zahry Posted January 4, 2013 Author Posted January 4, 2013 re the best glue - i would say any glue for plastic including the instant should work - the instant glue will need probably about an hour to cure because the surface is not porous and there is not much ventilation. Hot glue is ok if you want to exchange the extension shaft in a future.
wolle Posted January 5, 2013 Posted January 5, 2013 Hi Wolle, Looks like there might be something going on. At the first glance it looks as it should but just in case can you check the following lengths? Hi Zahry, Here are my measurements, made with a (low-end) caliper: Your measurement: 14.5 mm, my measurement: 14.5 mm Your measurement: 5.0 mm, my measurement: 5.8 mm Your measurement: 18.6 mm, my measurement: 17.6 mm I am not sure I recognize the part depicted in your last picture, but I think it is simply the grooved part of the upper part of the female bit, i.e. the grooved part of the next-but last picture, if so, then: Your measurement: 12.3 mm. My measurement: 11.9 mm As you see, there are some significant deviations, and the failure for my extension to mechanically fit could be a case of tolerances adding up unfavorably, but I am not certain of that. Next I would like to check the electrical connection. I have some questions: how do I best remove the glue that holds the upper connector in place? I also have the feeling that the lower connector needs to stick out a little more. If so, is the lower connector glued in, can it be moved? [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Intel Core I7 4820K @4.3 GHz, Asus P9X79 motherboard, 16 GB RAM @ 933 MHz, NVidia GTX 1070 with 8 GB VRAM, Windows 10 Pro
terrydew Posted January 5, 2013 Posted January 5, 2013 Has anyone tried a longer extension and dealing with the reduced tension by changing the large spring in the base to a stronger one?
RogueSqdn Posted January 5, 2013 Posted January 5, 2013 Hot glue worked for the top connector. The only issue I seem to have is an occasional loss of connection when the stick is at the ends of its travel, as if the bottom connector is coming a little loose from the WH base. DEFENSOR FORTIS Spoiler Systems: Falcon NW Talon: Ryzen 9 5950X @4.9GHz, 64GB DDR4, RTX 3090 FE; Falcon NW Mach V: Core i7 3930K @3.2GHz, 32GB DDR3, GTX 1080 FE Cockpit: MonsterTech MTX F, 42" 4K TV, HP Reverb G2, Oculus Rift S, PointCTRL Controls: RS F16SGRH CE, RS F18CGRH, VPC T-50CM2, VFX, WarBRD (Grips); VPC T-50CM2, RS FSSB R3L (Bases); Winwing F/A-18C, VPC T-50CM3, VPC T-50CM, TM Warthog, Cougar (Throttles); VPC ACE2 (Rudders)
zahry Posted January 6, 2013 Author Posted January 6, 2013 @ RogueSqdn - try the hot glue on bottom connector as well. Just a thought - is the extension tight? One important observation - if you are tightening or releasing the extension make sure you always hold the handle with one hand and rotate the female bit with the other hand. If you'll hold the base instead and apply too much torque it can damage your joystick (easy to fix though) @wolle - it might be a case of tolerances adding up -I'll send you new parts on monday and lets see if it will solve the problem :-)
RogueSqdn Posted January 6, 2013 Posted January 6, 2013 I can try more glue later... I used all I had on the top. However the connector appears to be protruding at a slighta ngle. Don't know how much that might have to do with it. DEFENSOR FORTIS Spoiler Systems: Falcon NW Talon: Ryzen 9 5950X @4.9GHz, 64GB DDR4, RTX 3090 FE; Falcon NW Mach V: Core i7 3930K @3.2GHz, 32GB DDR3, GTX 1080 FE Cockpit: MonsterTech MTX F, 42" 4K TV, HP Reverb G2, Oculus Rift S, PointCTRL Controls: RS F16SGRH CE, RS F18CGRH, VPC T-50CM2, VFX, WarBRD (Grips); VPC T-50CM2, RS FSSB R3L (Bases); Winwing F/A-18C, VPC T-50CM3, VPC T-50CM, TM Warthog, Cougar (Throttles); VPC ACE2 (Rudders)
zahry Posted January 6, 2013 Author Posted January 6, 2013 Just a thought - I've got my "Mad Genius" hat on today and I've started playing with idea how to attach the joystick below table level with adjustable height to give it more natural feel - is it something that might be interesting for anyone? I'll post pics in day or two
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