Wooo! I'm the proud owner of a Saitek X45!!

[Raven Morpheus]

Hey there

 

After busting my Thrustmaster T-Flight Hotas X (screw through the throttle section main cable whilst putting things back together after removing the throttle handle detent, rendering the throttle handle useless) I knew I had to buy a new stick (or at least a new throttle).

 

I've been eyeing up either a Saitek X45 or X52 for a long while now and I finally managed to get my hands on a fully functional Saitek X45, albeit a 2nd hand one, for the excellent price of £45 + £7.5 postage!

 

Compared to the T-Flight Hotas X the throttle handle is beautiful to use, no detent around centre, and it's much more accurate around it's centre also, it seems smoother and accurate in general. I could do with a couple more buttons instead of 1 of the hat switches, although I'm sure I can find a use for the hat switch I'm not using (the mouse wheel hat). On the T Flight Hotas X I had separate buttons mapped for uncaging shkval and the ALT+C function and I don't really have any spare buttons for doing that on the Saitek X45, unless I use the directions of the mouse hat switch, which I'm not sure would work all that well for me. I guess I could map the uncage shkval to the pinky switch, but again, not really ideal for me as I use the mouse initially to move the shkval (and then a hat switch for tighter targeting) and I'm right handed...

 

I don't like the position of the pinky switch either, I basically don't like my little finger resting on it and it means I'm only really gripping the stick with my 2 middle fingers and thumb.

 

If I were to redesign the X45 I'd get rid of the pinky switch and maybe put a couple of extra buttons on the stick or throttle bases.

 

I also have no idea what the "Mode selection" function does. I'll have to read the downloadable manual I guess...

 

 

One other little issue I've got with it though, which I see is quite a common complaint and I was aware of it before I bought the stick, is that the stick itself has a plastic plate underneath the centring spring and that plate causes the stick to stick when I want to begin moving it.

 

I've seen people do a mod to the spring with zip ties, but as I don't have any to hand at the moment I've stuck a piece of silicon baking sheet (for a bit of "slidyness") and some foam under the plate to raise it up, it's made it better but it's not ideal.

 

Is there any other way to mod the stick (other than the zip tie method) so that the plate under the spring doesn't cause the stick to stick?

 

 

Thanks in advance for any advice on this, and sorry if I've put this topic in the wrong sub-forum.

Edited October 16, 2013 by Raven Morpheus

[Erforce]

before all, congrats !

 

When i changed my old Cyborg 3D completely uncalibrated for the X52 pro, on amazon for 110€, i jumped around full of joy, because now, i could hang the mighty KA-50 correctly.

 

i didn't really understand everything you said, but if i'm correct :

 

the mode will allow you to bing same button for different action. on the X52 with our 3 modes, the first one is mainly Navigation, the 2nd Combat, the 3rd emergency.

 

that way, i can't power up my chopper and combat systems with the mode 1, then lock and fire in mode 2.

 

about the stick to stick, everyone has his method. be aware that if you use wet oil, like silicon or telfon, you'll need to reapply every 2 weeks a dose. it will attract dust and other nasty things.

 

i'm using dry oil, that instantly evaporate when i spray it.

right now, i've done it one time. it seems to work well. but i don't have the experience, as it's about 1 month old. (my stick is 3y old++)

 

the pinky, used with the little finger, is a good place, imho.

 

Have fun with it !

[Spasticatedtoad]

One thing I found quite useful for a sticky stick ( as others have suggested ) something to lubricate the plastic plate and metal spring is very helpful.

I just thought I would add, I used Sewing Machine oil on my x-52 and have only had to apply it once in 6 months. It's a dry lubricant that is designed to statically stick to metal surfaces and not spread around or stick to Non-Metalic surfaces.

It can be bought just about anywhere and is quite cheap. Also, it doesn't gum up with gunk or attract dust. :)

I may not have offered much extra advise than you've already been offered, but I just thought I'd put it out there about the sewing machine oil, just in case it is helpful to someone. :)

[Raven Morpheus]

Thanks for the tips so far.

 

I've discarded the foam I had put under the plate below the spring and I managed to find a couple of zip ties and tied up 2 rings of the spring.

 

That combined with a 9cm diameter circle piece of a silicon baking sheet under the plate has made it better.

 

Still not perfect though so I may get some more zip ties and tie up 3 rings on the spring and/or find some grease as you guys mentioned.

 

 

I also retract my thoughts about the pinky switch - I've mapped it to the trimmer and it makes sense where it is, even if it feels a little odd having my little finger not gripping anything.

[Darkwolf]

I'm a proud user of a X45. I can't even pinpoint the year of purchase. I think that was before lockon release. Had a year in G940 but finally back on the X45 after I sold the G940.

 

I had trouble with the center too, with some large noise too. I placed 3 piled piece of paper which acted as spacers. They removed most of the resistance and noise. I tried to grease the plastic before, but ended in even more noise.

 

Nowadays i did a long joystick mod on it with a long tube and placed the stick on floor. The strengh you gain with the lengh solve the problem. a 5.1 sound system cover the noise too :music_whistling:

[jay43]

Just a heads up a lot of talk on here about the springs on joysticks and people cutting the joystick in half then cutting the wires and re-soldering it all back together, bad move.

 

If you want to take the spring off altogether its super easy springs are not sealed units they have open ends, by this i mean you need to think of a spring as an extended version of a key ring so grab the pliers hook one of the open ends around the shaft and just twist it will come of easily.

And reverse the order to put it back on.

[number3]

Congrats! I still use an x45. Had the itch to upgrade to the x52 but hesitated when I found out they got rid of the rudder rocker switch under the throttle.

 

I bought mine second hand a some time ago and the previous owner removed the pinky switch. See: http://img06.tablica.pl/images_tablicapl/47382407_4_644x461_saitek-x45-profesjonalny-kontroler-lotu-elektronika.jpg

 

So now there is an indent where the orange pinky switch used to be, if I want to use it I just move my pinky down into the indentation and pull.

 

The mode switch basically acts as a shift key. When you download the programming software you'll see what I mean. Personally I almost never remember which mode I'm in. You can override and program your own shift keys in the program utility (I usually use the mouse fire button).

 

One thing that I've never been able to get working are the rotary switches. Tried to program them for zooming in and out but in game nothing happens.

 

And it may only be me, but the Auxiliary switch is a bit flaky. If you ever need help with the programming, let me know.

[Raven Morpheus]

Congrats! I still use an x45. Had the itch to upgrade to the x52 but hesitated when I found out they got rid of the rudder rocker switch under the throttle.

 

Yes I noticed they'd removed that on the X52. I was going to buy one as it's the newer of the sticks and all USB (I could have used just the throttle section). But due to the lack of rudder rocker switch I went for the X45, seeing as I don't own pedals and I generally sit on my bed playing games so pedals are not a viable option.

 

 

One thing that I've never been able to get working are the rotary switches. Tried to program them for zooming in and out but in game nothing happens.

 

Think that's peculiar to BS. I've got IL2 1946 also and I use the rotaries for trim wheels, although they're about as accurate and helpful as my mouse wheel - I seem to spend more time correcting and trimming than anything else.

 

I'm also not using the programming software. I'm running Windows 7 and I've read on various forums that the programming software doesn't always work for people. So, so far all I've installed is the basic Saitek X45 driver.

 

 

And it may only be me' date=' but the Auxiliary switch is a bit flaky. If you ever need help with the programming, let me know.[/quote']

 

If you mean the 3 position slider switch above the orange button on the throttle stick then it's probably just yours. I've mapped mine to the hardpoints, so it goes ALL - Inner - Outer (or something like that).

 

One button on mine that doesn't work 9 times out of 10 is the Fire C button on the front top right of the stick. It's not game related as it doesn't work 9/10 times in the control panel either.

 

Rather disappointed with that as it's the only button that is non-functional (occasionally it works). But as it's a second hand stick I can't complain. I wish I could take it a part to fix it (I suspect it's just worn out and can't press on the pcb properly) but it looks a bit awkward to take the stick apart to get at that button and considering last time I took a stick apart (my T-Flight Hotas X) I screwed through the main cable of the throttle handle I'm not inclined to risk ruining my X45....

 

 

I'm still kind of battling with the sticking of that plate below the spring. I tied up 3 rings on the spring instead of 2, using 4 zip ties but it's still not perfect.

 

It feels fine when I'm not in a game and I'm moving it around, but then when I come to play a game and try to make small corrections I can still feel it sticking.

 

I might try Darkwolf's idea of putting some layers of paper under the stick, or perhaps a piece of stiff card.

Edited October 26, 2013 by Raven Morpheus

[Scarecrow]

Back when I had an x45 I rubbed the tip of a pencil around the "lip" that the plate sits on. Graphite is a lubricant due to the layered arrangement of the carbon atom "sheets", it's also good for new zippers that are a bit sticky:pilotfly:

[Intrepid1]

I might try Darkwolf's idea of putting some layers of paper under the stick, or perhaps a piece of stiff card.

 

I cut up one of those fabric softener sheets you put in the dryer

and placed that under the spring plate.

It worked at lessening the noise and smoothed out the action a

little bit as well

 

Randy

[Fiachra]

My trusty Saitek 3D Gold has lasted me over 10 years but has been pretty sloppy over the last couple so finally decided to replace it with an x45 upon discovering DCS World. Somehow, in a weak moment, ended up with a shiny new X52 (couldn't locate a pro) in the post along with some Saitek Pro flight pedals.

 

Unfortunatly while watching an A-10 documentary earlier I had another weak moment and have now also ordered a CH Warthog.

 

Hope someone in Dublin wants to buy a nice new boxed x52!

[wrinkleydms]

Anyone have A10c settings for the x45 ?

cheers David

[BIGNEWY]

http://forums.eagle.ru/album.php?albumid=604

 

above some diagrams I used to use when I had a X45 also attaching my old profiles.

 

I am not sure what state they are in now as I have not used them for a long time.

 

I hope it helps or at least gives you an idea.

 

:)

[Raven Morpheus]

I cut up one of those fabric softener sheets you put in the dryer

and placed that under the spring plate.

It worked at lessening the noise and smoothed out the action a

little bit as well

 

Randy

 

 

Thanks, it's been nearly a year (sorry for the threadmancy) and since I last posted, and until today, I was using the zip tie method with a thin circle of card, which did help a little.

 

However today I went a bit further and I took another piece of card, the waxy sort of stuff you get on cereal boxes, mine came from the box that my USB TV Tuner dongle came in, and I took a 40thou thick piece of plasticard (black in this case) - look up Evergreen if you're in need of a brand to use, model makers us it extensively.

 

I cut the plasticard and two pieces of card into circles just a bit larger in diameter than the plate and cup that are on the X45, about 1cm larger, and I cut a hole in the middle and sliced up the radius of the circles into the hole so they fit around the shaft of the stick. I made a sandwich of the plasticard and ordinary card, with the plasticard in the middle.

 

The circles of card and plasticard sit on top of the cup between it and the plate that is below the spring, and along with the zip ties (I've used enough so I've completely covered the 2nd and 3rd rings up from the bottom) it has made a very smooth action.

 

I could have gotten away with just using the plasticard but for some reason it was making a rather annoying noise, but the card pieces either side, being softer I guess, have eliminated that noise.

 

I might even be able to remove the zip ties now, but I'm not sure I want to as I like the looseness - it's just loose enough that it's easy to move a little, but not quite loose enough to lose the self-centring effect.

 

Just thought I'd share my final fix for my X45 and thank you all for your advice. :)

Edited July 10, 2014 by Raven Morpheus