Sokol1_br Posted September 23, 2020 Author Posted September 23, 2020 I get a fluctuating number, but moving the sensor doesn't have any effect. EDIT: Tested a toe brake. That one registers properly.... mostly. It sits high, like ouput says 971. When I push the brake, it increase to 1000 then resets to 0 and starts count up again from there. Releasing the pedal goes back to zero/1000 and down the 971. . You can test the controller with an common potentiometer, and see if axis input work OK or not. But you don't mention nothing about calibration, is the first thing to do, even before think in test axes. I bet that problem is not the USB controller - the Arduino+MMJoy2, is the magnet and Hall sensor replacement. This "kick back" in brake axis is typical of misplacement of magnet. Just buy a BU0836 will no solve this. Read in this topic how the guy set - after many trial and errors, a HALL sensor + Magnet. Is the "Achilles hell" of DIY Hall sensor assembly. https://riseofflight.com/forum/topic/26026-hall-sensor-wireing-simped/#entry365976
Mr. B Posted September 24, 2020 Posted September 24, 2020 Hi all, I've bee searching, but no answers found yet. Using 10x 74HC165 shift registers, how do i get MMJoy2 to expand from 64 Joystick buttons to 80 (or the 128 indicated)? Using Pro Micro, fresh downloads, etc.
Mr. B Posted September 24, 2020 Posted September 24, 2020 Update - the version on Git is not the most recent. Is 201511xx. From original Google project site (in russian) latest version is 20161101, and a quick look shows buttons up to 128 :)
skygunner58203 Posted September 24, 2020 Posted September 24, 2020 You can test the controller with an common potentiometer, and see if axis input work OK or not. But you don't mention nothing about calibration, is the first thing to do, even before think in test axes. I bet that problem is not the USB controller - the Arduino+MMJoy2, is the magnet and Hall sensor replacement. This "kick back" in brake axis is typical of misplacement of magnet. Just buy a BU0836 will no solve this. Read in this topic how the guy set - after many trial and errors, a HALL sensor + Magnet. Is the "Achilles hell" of DIY Hall sensor assembly. https://riseofflight.com/forum/topic/26026-hall-sensor-wireing-simped/#entry365976 I'm not using a DIY sensor though. Looks just like a pot but the hall sensor is inside it. I'm using these from digikey https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=6127V1A360L.5FS Could very well be a bad sensor, but I don't want to give up on it yet
Sokol1_br Posted September 25, 2020 Author Posted September 25, 2020 But after define the axes in MMjoySetup you did the calibration -in Mmjoy2Setup, don't use Windows (obsolete) Games Controller. Try increasing the filter valued. I use one of this Bi-Tech 6127 in TQS and work well, but the controller are TUSBA. BTW - You sensor is 360º of "effective electric angle", in calibration processes you need turn all 360º. if you turn less the full resolution of ADC , e.g. 10 bits 1-24 points is nor achieved, because the voltage variation is not 0 ~5v. This 360º model is good for yoke, steering wheel, trim wheel... but not good for joystick, throttle, pedals.
skygunner58203 Posted September 25, 2020 Posted September 25, 2020 Huh. So I'll need to remove my sensors from the pedals and turn them during calibration, save the settings, then install the sensors. As for why I grabbed them... they were in the BOM listed on the thingiverse and prusa pages. ...... This is gonna suck.
Tumbler- Posted September 25, 2020 Posted September 25, 2020 I've just put a Delta electronics ps4 ministick in my Cougar throttle, seems to be all ok after i increased the filter to x4 to remove some of the jitter. But the ministick has same serious hysteresis (see below). But where do i create a dead zone in MMjoy?
skygunner58203 Posted September 25, 2020 Posted September 25, 2020 @Tumbler- Check Spec. Functions. if its not there, I think you can manually input the values in the DZ boxes. I could be wrong though
Tumbler- Posted September 25, 2020 Posted September 25, 2020 @Tumbler- Check Spec. Functions. if its not there, I think you can manually input the values in the DZ boxes. I could be wrong though Ah thanks! I had to put in quite some DZ (12) to get rid of the hysteresis. I might try the special function as well.
Sokol1_br Posted September 25, 2020 Author Posted September 25, 2020 (edited) ... remove my sensors from the pedals and turn them during calibration, save the settings, then install the sensors. As for why I grabbed them... they were in the BOM listed on the thingiverse and prusa pages. As above this 360º sensor is not recommend for pedal brake axes. If you calibrate then manually will achieve around 1024 points (10 bits) in 360º, but when put in pedal they will turn only ~30º, what means that voltage variation in this limited angle will represent only ~85 points of resolution for the USB controller. If you use original pot carcass as base and DIY assembly an Honeywell SS495A1, Allegro A1324LUAT, Microchip SS49E... you achieve more resolution. Using Allegro in this crude DIY arrange I achieve more than 950 points in brakes axis, using MMJoy2 as controller (10 bits/1024 points) for Ch pedal brake axis. Nothing wrong with Bi-Tech sensor, just this model is not suitable for the job. Bi-Tech 612x series has models between 35 and 360 degrees, e.g. 60, 90, 180... Edited September 25, 2020 by Sokol1_br
Sergey_Pe Posted September 26, 2020 Posted September 26, 2020 But where do i create a dead zone in MMjoy? On your second screenshot- DZ boxes. You'll need to set "DZ center".
Sergey_Pe Posted September 26, 2020 Posted September 26, 2020 in calibration processes you need turn all 360º. if you turn less the full resolution of ADC , e.g. 10 bits 1-24 points is nor achieved, because the voltage variation is not 0 ~5v. Wrong. Calibration always needs to be done for the actual angle- this is exactly what it's done for. Otherwise you won't get a full range of OUTPUT signal for the particular axis. However the INPUT signal with the 360 deg. sensor will be much smaller, so much of the ADC resolution will be lost, as you correctly mentioned. I would strongly recommend using AS5600 sensor- calibrating it after installation (before MMJoy calibration) you'll get a full 0-5V voltage swing for any angle more than 18 degrees without any hassle with the magnet/ sensor positioning as with SSxx or Allegro sensors.
rel4y Posted September 26, 2020 Posted September 26, 2020 (edited) FreeJoy project. I've switched to it from MMJoy2 (which is very good) for my own projects. More flexible, works with the same sensor types as MMJoy, much more user-friendly configurator software, well-documented. Constantly evolves based on community feedback, but is 100% stable already now. The board (STM-32 based) is as cheap as ProMicro. Hey Sergey, I have followed the freejoy project since its inception and it has progressed splendidly. However one major drawback I came across is the really really cheap voltage reg of the blue pill boards, which makes the internal ADCs useless imo. Have you experimented with external voltage regs, like a 7805 or something? Ideally would be a LDO reg which can be supplied via 5V USB, like a MIC5219 used on Arduinos. You are also using Sprint layout if I remember correctly? Id really love to switch to the STMs for some projects, but I would much prefer using the internal ADCs. Kind regards Edited September 26, 2020 by rel4y Cougar, CH and Saitek PnP hall sensor kits + shift registers: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=220916 Shapeways store for DIY flight simming equipment and repair: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/rel4y-diy-joystick-flight-simming
Sergey_Pe Posted September 26, 2020 Posted September 26, 2020 Have you experimented with external voltage regs, like a 7805 or something? Hey rel4y, No I haven't. So far I used the blue pill's internal ADC with AS5600's in a throttle quadrant project without any noise-related problems. Maybe I'm lucky with the USB ports on my PC... Anyway I consider the internal ADC as an auxiliary functionality- TLE5011 (or TLE5012 after it's included in the firmware, as promised) would be my sensor choice. And yes, I'm using Sprint Layout but no plans for any FreeJoy shields so far. Best regards
TomVR Posted October 1, 2020 Posted October 1, 2020 has anyone had an Arduino micro die from being in storage unplugged? Dug out an old throttle I made using MMJOY2 and it shows up as a USB gamepad but opening it's properties gives an error. I can't get it to load into the mmjoy2 interface either
Sokol1_br Posted October 2, 2020 Author Posted October 2, 2020 (edited) opening it's properties gives an error. If this "properties" means Windows Game Controllers the error there indicate error in (Windows) register.* Clear (Windows) Register for the entries for your MMJoy2 name and enter again in MMjoySetup, using another VID/PID number. Eg. instead 88888/88888 use 88889/88889. * This error don't prevines test the device with VJB JoyTester neither use in games, is thing of Windows obsolete Game Controllers. Edited October 2, 2020 by Sokol1_br
TomVR Posted October 3, 2020 Posted October 3, 2020 (edited) If this "properties" means Windows Game Controllers the error there indicate error in (Windows) register.* Clear (Windows) Register for the entries for your MMJoy2 name and enter again in MMjoySetup, using another VID/PID number. Eg. instead 88888/88888 use 88889/88889. * This error don't prevines test the device with VJB JoyTester neither use in games, is thing of Windows obsolete Game Controllers. Okay so the mmjoy2 device shows up in VKB tester, I deleted the reg keys using USBDeview but it still errors out in the windows usb gamepads, and mmjoy2 still gives that error on bootup edit: So I change the VID/PID from 6666/6666 to 6669/6669 [nice] and now it works in USB Gamepad properties! Must have been a haunted vid/pid number? Unfortunately mmjoy2 program itself gives me the "device cannot be identified" error still Edited October 3, 2020 by TomVR
Sokol1_br Posted October 3, 2020 Author Posted October 3, 2020 MMjoySetup don't require an Arduino connected for start, but he identify all USB devices plugged in your computer. Some of this device that you have plugged are causing the error.
TomVR Posted October 3, 2020 Posted October 3, 2020 Could it be a virtual device? disconnected all my usb devices and still no luck
TomVR Posted October 12, 2020 Posted October 12, 2020 (edited) All Mmjoy2, single Arduino micro. Edited October 12, 2020 by TomVR
Sokol1_br Posted October 12, 2020 Author Posted October 12, 2020 TomVr Good job in this throttle. :thumbup:
TomVR Posted November 3, 2020 Posted November 3, 2020 latest project. https://streamable.com/6casx8 also it seems I can't set custom button mode functions after the 32nd button is that intentional behaviour? Using the 2016 version of mmjoy2 1
Sokol1_br Posted November 3, 2020 Author Posted November 3, 2020 Yes, the limit for "special functions" is 32 buttons - above work only as momentary press buttons; due ATMEGA32u4 memory limitations, reduced by that support for output for LED ... useful only for War Thunder.
TomVR Posted November 6, 2020 Posted November 6, 2020 hmm which version was that the case? I've been using the 2016 build thinking it was the most stable.
Sokol1_br Posted November 6, 2020 Author Posted November 6, 2020 Is considered the MMJOY2 [v20160818upd1], the last MMJOY2 [v20161101]) supposedly has a bug with many buttons, don't know exactly what is. Perhaps FreeJoy is more suitable for you project.
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