No1sonuk

The old version still works (I use it), but there won't be new modules added. DCS UFC X is a newer pay per module version.

Start a separate thread in this forum and we'll see what we can do.

What's your hardware setup?

It could be electrical noise. Try this: The resistors shown dotted aren't necessary - DCS-BIOS turns on those in the Arduino.

One problem you'll have is that the full rotation of the A-10 HSI is 0-65535, but the common data magnetic is 0-359. It looks like the code you have is designed to work with 0-65535 input. Try changing the value shown below. If that fails, try writing a stepper routine that takes a position number, and send it from a normal DCS-BIOS code block.

Build a stand...

As mentioned in Discord, which switches are they? It sounds like you were drawing too much current and were lucky not to blow the Arduino's regulator or I/O pins. The "bad burning smell" is the stage just before the smoke escapes!

OK. That should compile. What error message is it giving? However, I'm not sure that code will do what you want. There's nothing stopping the MASTER_CAUTION_RESET_SW toggling every loop while the button is down.

How are you trying to do it? The format is: sendDcsBiosMessage("MESSAGE", argument);

DCS-BIOS will natively work only with the ports ON the processor. If you want to use more through multiplexers and expanders, you have to write all the code to handle that yourself, then use the sendDcsBiosMessage function in DCS-BIOS to send the switch signals to DCS. You MIGHT be able to do it with a Nano using a matrix, but you're pushing it for that many inputs, AND remember that you CANNOT use pins D0 and D1 AT ALL with an Arduino running DCS-BIOS because they are used for the USB comms. MAX7219 LED drivers are a popular choice. 64 LEDs from one device. They can make eight 7-segment (plus decimal point) numerical displays or an 8x8 matrix, and a few can be "daisy-chained" to save IO pins. There's also the addressable LEDs - commonly called "Neopixels" after Adafruit's implementation of them.

It might be the routing of the wires as much as the length if it's noise.

Sounds like electrical noise on the wires. Is the wire run to the Arduino long? Try twisting all 3 wires together. Another thing to try is a 100nF (or similar) capacitor between each Arduino input and GND.

It's really not that hard. I'll try to find a less patronising guide tomorrow.

OK. Get rid of that zip. Go here : https://github.com/DCS-Skunkworks/dcs-bios/releases and follow this:

Try this: https://tekcreations.slab.com/public/posts/dcsbios-installation-skunkworks-byjgzhpu

Neither of those can work as HID (joystick) in their stock form. You need a Pro Micro or Leonardo (the types with 32u4 processors).

Tek Creations has a sub-channel on the Skunkworks DCS-BIOS Discord: https://discord.com/channels/533342958712258572/1226210379894624357 okopanja's link indicates the panel might be totally DCS-BIOS connected. That could explain why Windows sees it as a HID (because it's an S2 board), but doesn't respond to the switches. Another thing to check is if there's a way to find out if it's old enough to be set up for Hub.

Which Arduino are you using - it's important to know that...

Which Arduino are you using, and what code? If they're connected as HID, do they work properly in the windows game controller app? If they do, check in the controls screens of DCS in case there are any other controllers, keyboard, etc. that affect the throttles.

What's the problem you're having? It should be a simple 0-5V coming from the sensor, just like a potentiometer.

One option (This one is the P-51 rockets/bombs arming switch) https://www.ebay.com/itm/WWII-Switch-Toggle-Panel-select-bombardier-Aircraft-Rare-Vintage-8905-K671-C-H-/303665840906?_ul=IL Another option I've seen is use a mini joystick with custom detents and Arduino code to interpret the analogue signals.

That's very odd. The fact that the backlight goes out indicates it might be a problem with the hub power. Try this: void setup() { DcsBios::setup(); lcd.init(); // zapnutí LCD lcd.clear(); lcd.backlight(); // zapne podsvícení LCD TRUEheading = 400; // Set to a value DCS won't produce to indicate startup condition screen0(); delay(4000); // Wait 4 seconds TRUEheading = 0; // Set to 0 screen0(); } That sets the TRUEheading variable to a number DCS won't produce so you can see if the displayed number is a result of startup. If the power is being cut, after the LCD comes back on, it should sit at 400 for 4 seconds, then reset to 0. Don't forget to wait until the display is 0 before the first connection to DCS after turning on the Arduino. If that happens, the next thing I'd try is direct connection to a USB port on the computer - maybe the hub is causing a problem. If eliminating the hub doesn't fix it, it might be the display updating that's causing the problem. Try changing the code to this: void onHdgDegChange(unsigned int newValue) { TRUEheading = newValue; // screen0(); // Disable this line for testing } That should stop the code updating the display, but leave everything else working the same. This is testing if the display updating too quickly is causing the problem (Though that problem should look different to what you showed).

Did you set it up as a HID ("joystick" buttons)? If you did, did you blank the whole column in the button AND axis controls pages in DCS before setting up the controls you want? When you add an new HID, DCS "guesses" what you want to use it for.

Can you recreate the INS switch separately? It might be you have too much on one Arduino. Try commenting out everything except the INS switch and see if it works OK. You might need to split the panels across a couple/few Arduinos.

Yes. COMPLETELY remove Hub and any DCS-BIOS. Then the installation instructions for the new version are here: https://github.com/DCS-Skunkworks/dcs-bios This is a reasonable guide to installation: