No1sonuk

My previous comment was premature. I did a fresh install of the Flightpanels fork on a new machine today, including new arduino IDE and DCS-BIOS library, and the inverter switch operates correctly. If you are using the "Hub" version of DCS-BIOS, I suggest you uninstall and use the "Flightpanels Fork". It's a bit harder to connect, but it is actively bug-fixed and updated. Hub currently isn't. If you are using Flightpanels already, I suggest updating the library.

I will add that you should use the Flightpanels fork of DCS-BIOS, not Hub. Hub isn't currently actively updated.

If the lever pokes through a slot in the panel, you could align it with that somehow. Also, IIRC, the DPDT toggles have a horizontal bar inside that the lever could be anchored to.

I've confirmed this is not working in the Flightpanels version of DCS-BIOS and have raised an issue report on their Github.

If you're machining the lever, use a mill (or mill attachment on a lathe) and make it square or put a flat on it. Then 3D printed caps with matching holes won't rotate.

Do you mean UltraMFCD? https://ultramfcd.com

Check out this post:

12V gives overhead for the onboard regulator to work properly.

I've been dabbling with arduinos with A10 and P51 so far. I've also just started using the Stream Deck part of the Flightpanels interface.

I installed Flightpanels to a different DCS version, but I assume you'd have to completely uninstall Hub. Chrome doesn't support the apps anymore. Someone has created an alternative, but I can't remember what it's called. There's a channel on the FP discord. Socat needs to be unzipped depending on the OS version. Sorry for disjointed response - phone app freaking out in this forum.

Firstly, assuming you installed the "Hub" version of DCS-BIOS, uninstall it and get the "FlightPanels" version. That one is actively updated, and has the MB339 according to the list. https://github.com/DCSFlightpanels

The "zoomed back" images might be obtained by using a head tracker, leaning forward, then restting the view position. That means leaning back effectively zooms out.

For reference, this is from an Airbus.

I just tried my BU0836 and I see the problem. I confirm Scott's findings: The switch in the controls is set to TOGGLE when activated. It appears: "ON/OFF" means press on, press off. "ON<>OFF" means the control follows the switch state.

The pull is a feature on real one's so it doesn't get moved by jolts, etc. Airbus levers also have an electronic interlock. Is there a reason why you can't build what you want?

OK. I'll dig out my BU0836 and see if I get similar.

All I can think of now is that it's something in how the switches are wired.

Does it work OK after you've done that once? I've found some switches need to be "synced" before they'll work. e.g. When I do a cold start, I begin with the throttles at idle, then move them to cutoff before the startup sequence so that DCS registers they've switched. In your case, you might need to start with the switches at "ON", then move them to "OFF" before powerup in order for them to work. OTOH, in options>misc. there's an option to sync the cockpit controls to HOTAS on startup. Maybe that's what you need.

If you're using the matrix on the BU0836A's, you need the diodes to allow more than one switch to be made at a time. If you don't use the diodes, the matrix polling can "go the wrong way" and could be a problem. To determine if this is the issue, put all the switches in their centre position (no connections) and try one each way at a time. If they work individually, you need the diodes. I have one of the matrix breakout boards. They give individual connections for each switch, and have the diodes built in.

OK. No need to get defensive... My initial reaction was "F**K IT sort it yourself." However, I'll cut you some slack this time as you might have misread my comment. I'm trying to determine if you cocked up some arduino code that's leading to your problem. As you appear to have gone straight to Helios, I will suggest trying to bind the switches in the normal controls screen in DCS. Start with the switches in the middle, "ON" position. Bind the MENU position by switching up and releasing. Then bind the ON/OFF by switching down to "OFF". This may be redundant if you've checked the button press output in the Windows USB Game Controller settings app: How have you wired the Bodnar board? Are you using the breakout with diodes? If not, did you put your own diodes in?

You wrote "programming my CMSP panel". What programming? I thought you were using a Bodnar board for the switches.

Have you checked the control binds aren't clashing? I know that causes odd behaviour with analogue axes, but maybe that's also a problem for some standard buttons/switches.

Yes. I use Open Beta with DCS-BIOS.

Did you change the properties of the updater to run in the directory you moved it to? If you just move the files, the original run location may be retained.

IIRC, you move the updater file to the drive/folder you want and run it. It then installs the files there. That's how I copied my DCS to a new PC.