No1sonuk

IIRC, you can get clip-in prescription lenses.

I'm guessing they're missing because they're not clickable.

Anything that uses the same frequency band can interfere. With digital signals, that usually manifests itself as breaking up on audio, low fps on video, or lag/reduced speeds for data. Bear in mind you'll be streaming A LOT of data for the VR. If that's on 5GHz, you need to be sure your audio is on 2.4GHz (e.g. the aforementioned laggy Bluetooth).

Bluetooth headphones have lag problems.

This is a callback to almost a year ago about the 1x1 viewport to make DCS render in external/HUD views. I think I finally found where it was I saw it: http://dcs-bios.a10c.de/docs/v0.7.0/userguide.html#_a_10c Looks like I misread the intention. This was to allow DCS-BIOS to export that data. I thought it was for other viewports too.

Can you not set up with #1 to the left and tell it the main viewport starts at, say 1920 from the left?

I saw something about that on comments for a YouTube video in the past day or so. If no one else chimes in, I'll have a search after work this evening.

The pot won't be seen by joy.cpl because you've set it up for use in DCS-BIOS, not as a joystick axis. Try this: DcsBios::Potentiometer hudSymBrt("HUD_SYM_BRT", A9); You don't need the pinMode statements for I/O only used by DCS-BIOS - it does that automatically. AND everything I've read says you don't need it at all for analogue pins as it's automatically set when the analogRead function is called. Also remember that pins 0 and 1 can't be used for normal I/O on ATMega328 Arduinos such as the Uno and Nano. It should be OK for the 32u4 devices like the Pro Micro. If you want it to be aircraft-specific, you could do it all in DCS-BIOS, like this: #define DCSBIOS_DEFAULT_SERIAL #include "DcsBios.h" DcsBios::Switch2Pos hookLever("HOOK_LEVER", 3); DcsBios::Switch2Pos gearLever("GEAR_LEVER", 2); DcsBios::Potentiometer hudSymBrt("HUD_SYM_BRT", A9); DcsBios::LED landingGearHandleLt(0x7478, 0x0800, 0); DcsBios::LED hookLever(0x74a2, 0x0100, 1); void setup() { DcsBios::setup(); } void loop() { DcsBios::loop(); }

It SHOULD be VCC. That's the power rail of the processor. Have you tried a different pot? You might have a faulty one that's shorting the power supply.

OR, put a hinge pin through the spherial part. Check out how they stop this illuminated switch rotating - Take a close look at the side of the thread: https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/P00741.html?gclid=CjwKCAiAxP2eBhBiEiwA5puhNcE9EYiUtqlSY-68IHWtcvKqQ1FwQwvF87rp8wVL5ZbpvhVcc9Jq6BoC95gQAvD_BwE

If it can detect white paper at 1", it should be able to detect speed tape further away. Yes. Have a look here (and note the smaller resistor value for the LED): https://www.digikey.com/en/maker/blogs/2022/how-to-use-a-phototransistor-with-an-arduino

The mirror finish balloon stuff is usually called Mylar. I've got what's called "speed tape" in the aviation industry. It's basically very thin self-adhesive aluminium that's used for temporary patching of aerodynamic surfaces. You could possibly try kitchen foil and double-sided tape or glue (or even just wrap it around the needle to test it). As for the electronics: The op-amp is set up as a comparator. The potentiometer is being used as a voltage divider to set the detection threshold. With the circuit you have there, it's set up to trigger the output LOW when the input created by the R3 and phototransistor voltage divider drops below what you have set on the potentiometer when the light falls on the sensor. Because it's used as a voltage divider, changing the potentiometer value will have no effect beyond changing how much current the overall curcuit uses. I don't think changing R3 will either. And remember that you're using a device with an A-D converter... You could get rid of the hardware comparator entirely and read the voltage from the phototransistor, then compare it digitally. Another, easier, option is to make the LED brighter: The datasheet for the TCRT5000L shows the LED forward current can be up to 60mA. With an LED forward voltage of 1.5V, and 5V supply, 390 ohms at R2 gives a current of just over 8.97mA. That means you could drop the resistor, R2, as far as 100 ohms and get 35mA to get a "brighter" LED. Still within the range, but the LED may get warm. Just remember not to go lower than 175 ohms (20mA) if you're going to drive the LED directly from an Arduino pin so you can turn it on and off as required.

Could the needle be too close to be detected? Some useful info here: https://www.vishay.com/docs/80107/80107.pdf

If it's lead-free solder (e.g. SAC), the temperature needs to be higher.

I don't think so.

That's exactly it. Maybe it'll stop working soon.

And on the tip cleaning note. While the "traditional" method is a damp sponge, I prefer the "metal shavings" type, as they don't cool the iron when they work. e.g. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Soldering-Cleaner-Solder-Cleaning-Brass/dp/B09GY5DFDW/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=35XR9J9S8QXY2

Part of the problem is often too much solder. The excess sticks to the iron rather than the joint.

Search for OLED and altimeter. You should find a few discussions which describe driving the OLEDs with "rolling number wheels". You'd just need to adapt the code for the FFI. Just remember it's processor-intensive, so don't expect to be able to run much else, if anything, on the same device.

There was an app you could install in Chrome that showed the live data coming from DCS-BIOS while the game is running. Chrome doesn't support those apps anymore. BORT is a standalone program that replaces the live data Chrome app.

I usually send to an I2C character LCD for debugging.

I just tried the OP sketch without those two lines and it now displays the changing number. Good call, Vinc. I would still suggest a rewrite in modular form, though.

I can't get it to work either, and my character LCD display is showing the values changing, so it's not DCS. Your code is too complex for me to fault-find this evening. Maybe you should start over and make it modular to begin with. Get it displaying a simple value changing first, then go into the fancy formatting.

Did you notice the Chrome thing doesn't work anymore? You need "BORT" to get the live data now. There's a channel on the Flightpanels Discord.

If you stick with Hub, you can't fix the problem.