No1sonuk

It should be Switch2Pos. Is that what the "simple" view on the control reference says?

Hub is the version of DCS-BIOS. The other version a lot of people use is called the Flightpanels fork.

You should have added that you're using Hub. It's important.

Yes. And no... It was "forked" from a version if DCS-BIOS earlier than Hub. As I understand it, it was originally made so that the Saitek flight panels could be used with DCS. The fork now consists of a version of DCS-BIOS as well as an additional app for the flight panels, and also the StreamDecks. You can use just the DCS-BIOS part if you want. Flightpanels is actively maintained, but Hub isn't.

I don't know about Hub, but the Flightpanels guys posted on their discord on the 17th that they're working on integrating the two in the same way as the A-10C and A-10C II are. I don't know if Hub is actively bugfixed at the moment. I know Flightpanels fork is actively maintained.

Three things: 1) Are you using the Hub or Flightpanels version of DCS-BIOS? 2) Have you tried the LST/NFLR switch code in case they're transposed? 3) For a magnetically held switch, you might need to use the "actionbutton" code for the switch, or even doing it longhand with "sendDcsbiosMessage". Then you can use the switch position read to turn the hold magnet on if DCS says the switch is on. I think that using "Switch2Pos" won't let DCS switch it off if the physical switch is on. I had such a problem with a Mosquito gear lever test.

You could try a largish capacitor where the 5V goes into each arduino. 100uF more or less. Be careful, though: capacitors that big are usually electrolytic and have to be fitted the right way round. That should smooth out the dips.

They're very fine, usually gold-flashed contacts. Even a small current can be too much. There are many alternatives for the applications in question.

It's likely the character bitmaps that are part of the included library. Maybe a different font would be better.

Which OLED library do you use? It looks like u8g2 library supports the sh1122 controller.

That'll give you 12V as well. Plenty of guides for that online.

Try disconnecting things from the power. It might be your supply can't handle the load.

The Flightpanels fork is very much alive.

@parkerfly51505 They said the Megas work independently, implying that they were connecting to be programmed. That being the case, the USB interface driver shouldn't be the problem.

New release of the Flightpanels fork has the inverting LED code support. https://github.com/DCSFlightpanels/dcs-bios-arduino-library/releases/tag/0.3.8

The wiki link indicates it contains an Arduino Nano. It might be possible to reprogram it to work with DCS-BIOS.

I've asked the guy that told me it was included if it has been released yet.

400Hz noise from aircraft electronics is common. I hear it daily - I work in a commercial aircraft component repair workshop. Our usual saying about "noisy" equipment is that if you can hear the noise, you have a FAR more serious problem to deal with because your engines have stopped!

I wrote a version of the LED output instruction that accepts the "true" or "false" to invert the LED output. IIRC the Flightpanels fork guys included it in an update recently.

The defines in the includes are defaults. If you define them again after the include, your new value overrides the default.

Could always use link wires.

Yes. Usually pin 2 as it's next to 1 and 0. If you're using more than one branch, you'll need a TXEN for each.

You could also run a long USB cable to the master at the back end of the left console and run the bus all the way round ot the back of the right console. Or run 3 separate masters at the main panel end.

I don't understand. What "return wiring"? I also don't understand how "train line" would be more wiring than "spider web". It's a "branch line". It goes one way. Another name for train line would be "daisy chain". The RS485 bus goes from one panel to the next, then you put a terminating resistance on the end farthest from the master. Or, run a long bus with "tap point" connectors to plug in your panels.

Some things to check/try: Check you have the right com port. Different Arduinos connect slightly differently and use different ports. Your IDE software should tell you the correct port. I would have added to check you have the right device selected in the IDE, but you said you have other projects working. Try changing between "default" and "IRQ" in the initial serial definition. Lastly: Do you really want all 3 radios in one Arduino? It'll complicate the code quite a bit.