Shaemus ODonnelly

Had the same problem but while pulling more tha 20% back. It was a simple cable break, quickly resolved by Virpil support, they sent me a new cable which was very easy to install and that fixed it.

In level flight, release time spacing and impact time spacing will match up, there are variables in it (gusts that change the vertical and horizontal velocity of the plane and bombs) but they are minor. During lofting and dive bombing, release and impact spacing will be different. As i understand it, when you tell Jester your desired ripple spacing, he calculates release distance into release time intervals according to current airspeed. I read that somewhere and he also refuses to use bomb spacings that cant be achieved with the Tomcats release timing settings (like very long release distance at very low airspeeds).

The Kitty has some forms of auto trim. It automatically trims against pitching moment and the balooning effect of flaps for example and the autopilot without anything else selected is an attitude hold system, which behaves similar to fly by wire. I dont know how manual trim works in the F-14 but i am guessing it just moves the sticks neutral point, which would be independent of the INS. In my experience, the E-Bracket in the F-14 is calculated from AoA-Sensor data, not INS. I shot my INS to pieces multiple times and the bracket still worked. There are planes out there that use both systems to calculate AoA but i suspect the F-14 isnt one of them. I'm sorry i cant help, i have no idea what it could be.

Make sure you turn off the autopilot and switch on pitch SAS. I never ran into any trim issues that werent related to those 2 things.

The AV-8B and F/A-18C have very similar sticks, except for the position of the trim hat and sensor select switch. Is it possible to simply swap these 2 hats without too much of a hassle? Meaning with maybe just a little solder job and some light filing and glueing? When i checked out the stick a buddy got, it seemed like the holes are a different size from the outside, but it might look different from the inside. I love the trigger feel of that grip, i wish the Warthog was like that.

Yes, the HSD in Dest mode shows TAS and GS so you can calculate from there.

As the others have stated, you are supposed to update your INS prior to the attack run with the IP. The Kitty only has INS guidance and small measuring errors that all sensors are prone to add up over time, so the INS gets less accurate in flight, which can mess up your bombing. By locking up the IP and the RIO doing some magic in the back, the plane can measure its distance and velocity to the IP accurately with the radar, therefore it is able to reset its INS to be accurate again. It can also be used in offset bombing. Basically, the JTAC gives you IP coordinates and BRA from IP to target which the RIO can enter into the computer. Once you lock the IP, the bomb fall line and pipper will guide you to a Computer Target bombing run on the target from there. This is useful if you can not see the target because it is hidden, but you need to be able to see the IP.

The wing root getting some heat treatment, and OMG, we're in his jetwash xD EDIT: Any idea why none of my pictures are showing?

AFAIK, ACLS is broken. A few weeks ago, ICLS guidance was off (you basically flew into the water behind the ship if you flew perfect needles) and they fixed it, but ACLS still has that problem. That means even if you are 100% on and on on ICLS, for the ACLS, you are actually high, causing violent reactions after coupling. IIRC, there should be a safety system that disengages the AP when it is correcting too hard, though.

Hi guys, so I own Virpil VFX #33 and i recently decided to do multiple upgrades on my stick. Some are easy DIY fixes i'd say anyone can do with just an allen wrench, others will be more complex and just an expression of my enthusiasm in engineering and mechanics. I will use this thread as a little diary, adding pictures and descriptions to everything i've done and how the stick has improved since then. This is what i've got planned: Replace all buttons with Otto P1 switches (WIP) Upgrade trim hat (New, more accurate 3D printed hat and a 4-way-gate like on the CM2 throttle hats) 3D printed Aluminium pinky lever, Trigger & DLC mechanism cover plate to add weight and rigidity Reduce spring noise during trigger actuation (DONE) Metal threaded inserts in all screw holes instead of self-tapping screws Reduce gaps between the parts Improve bearing function on DLC wheel, pinky lever and trigger (overkill adjusted bearing assembly with improved axles, bearings and sleeves) What i've already done: Replacing all Switches with Otto P1: Otto switches have a much better feel and are much higher quality than any switches used on any consumer-joysticks. I currently have some Otto P1-11121 (heavy spring, red button) and P1-11112 (light spring, black button) test-fitted into the pickle-button and NWS/AP-Ref button holes with electrical tape. Since the P1-7 series of buttons is larger and has a flange, i suppose they will fit much better but mine wont arrive for another 6 weeks, so i'll have to wait. Apart from soldering new connectors, the upgrade didnt require any modification so far. Heres a picture of the much neater weapon release button: For now, i have not done anything to the DLC button because installing a new button there requires a new DLC plate, drilling into the PCB (:eek:), getting a lower profile button and depending on the thickness of the Otto casing, i might have to offset it to the bottom because it'd interfere with the sensor for the DLC wheel. Upgrade trim hat: When my trim hat arrived, it sadly was crooked, is not gated and the shape is not very accurate. After i got my CM2 throttle, i realised they added 4 way gates to the hat base, which i will try too, and i also designed a new button that a buddy will 3D-print for me. 3D printed pinky lever, Trigger & DLC cover plate Another flaw with my stick was the pinky lever. It being out of plastic is not that much of a problem, but the geometry on the inside seems slightly off, it doenst fully cover the microswitch, pressing on it at an angle and sometimes sliding off. So i designed a new one in CAD, which will pe printed as a prototype out of PLA, and if it fits, i'll get it 3D printed in an aluminium alloy. When it comes to the trigger, the original one is made from nice plastic and has good feedback. But it isnt very accurate to the real thing (wrong width, curvature and no cutouts) so i tried to improve the curvature and added cutouts on the sides. I also corrected some of the internal geometry (it presses on the switches at an angle and i dont like the hinge mechanism which is basically plastic rotating on a screw). I am still not completely sure wether i would want to throw away the money to get it done in metal, but i've got it in the back of my head, since i like the idea of the cold trigger feel of the warthog and think it might improve sound & response. The DLC cover plate is nicely done but in order to improve the already great thumbwheel and to be able to offset the button, it will also be printed from aluminium after the prototype stage. Reduce spring noise during trigger actuation: Some of you might have noticed that the springs in the trigger tend to vibrate when you press and release the trigger. With a very easy modification, you can get rid of it entirely: Find any kind of loose foam that is used in packaging (i took mine from my headset box), cut it into pieces that are slightly thicker and longer than the springs and push those peaces inside the springs. They will act as a dampener and i havent heard of my springs since then. That is all so far, i'll keep you updated!

I was today years old when i found out the Tomcat had an airspeed/mach bug, thanks Victory205! Obviously i had to jump in and try it out. Sadly, both arrows seemed to be attached to the Mach scale, so i couldnt set a consistent KIAS target, only 2 Mach targets. Any input from Heatblur wether that is intentional or a bug/modelling fault?

+1 Would be awesome! I like to do a assisted startup once in a while to check wether i am doing it correctly and these yellow markers can get really annoying.

I do not use trim very often in the tomcat tbh. You can get around it most of the time with the autopilot. Just switching on the AP will get you a rudimentary attitude hold AP. I basically use this from right after takeoff until i either make my landing break or until i have to manouver hard (or precisely). In cruise i also switch on altitude hold and heading hold. If i want to get trimmed out behind a tanker, i keep it in attitude hold and try to get it steady behind the tanker. Once i am firmly established in the observation position, i turn AP off and it hands me a perfectly trimmed out plane that i can stick it in with. Giggity. And it is the same for getting trimmed out at 800/350 for my recovery initial. Use attitude hold to steer you on course, turn on all APs once you are at 800' on course and disable it when passing the ship. That way, i basically only have to use trim on downwind in the landing phase and as i am getting heavier during AAR, as well as in dogfights & surface attack.

Awesome, thanks Cobra! I am doing some inlays for the Thrustmaster MFDs an this will make it much more authentic!