Mano

I want to go to Las Vegas! Inviato dal mio Huawei P8 Lite utilizzando Tapatalk

Ah-64 Tornado Inviato dal mio Huawei P8 Lite utilizzando Tapatalk

Yes it's bugged. You start too low with zero visibility. Same issue. I managed once to recover it but because it's dark night you can't see any obstacle on your path...And I crashed 1nm after recovery... I don't understand why those missions a are all at night, for the su27. And you spawn always in critical situation or in the merge (if in combat). Inviato dal mio Huawei P8 Lite utilizzando Tapatalk

The problem with radio navigation in dcs is that you don't have information at disposition nor mission planning... Dcs mission planner is horrible and useless and it's a compliment to call it like that imho. With its limits falcon bms editor is a long way better than this. Moreover it crashes for me when flying the 21's stock campaign, but i believe it's only a problem of mine. I hope they'll improve it someway with dcs2. My 2 cents...

This is THE Solution! Thank you man! :thumbup:

Tello don't surrender! Maybe not today but tris night or tomorrow morning i can be available to check it via teamviewer. I believe the problem is some trivial mistake that we don't catch via forum. Don't give up! You paid for a hotas that works pretty well... So we must get it work.

Try running the sst Joy as administrator

Mmmh if sliders are ok in the control panel they should be ok in the game as well. The clutch button should always be deactivated. Try to cancel all ingame button assignments but the axis.

thank you GurbY, that's good news...well maybe when I had the problem I chose the quickest way because I didn't actually know which are usb3.0 or 2.0 ports on my pc! :lol: I'll give it a try on the next "format C:\" :D :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

LOL engineer sixth sense! :megalol: actually it's not sufficient to remove the hardware from the USB3.0. you have to uninstall the drivers for the usb3.0 usage, so in fact you cannot have usb3 ports on your pc if you want to play with saitek x52 pro...that's because of horrible saitek driver programming...and support...:mad: to remove the USB 3.0 port controller you have to uninstall the related program from the control panel -> uninstall software (or similar description...I've italian win7 so I don't know exact english terms), and look for USB 3.0 eXtensible Host Controlle. Uninstall that, disconnect anything and reboot. Then download and install Drivers (first) and SST software (second) strictly following the install instructions. download files from here: http://saitek.com/uk/down/drivers.php choosing: Product Range: PRO FLIGHT Product: X52 PRO and operating system... If everything has been correctly installed, in your device panel you should see a screen like the following: here you can download some of my profiles, if you don't want to mess with the SST software for instance: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/iwqll1nzc4ikfh3/AAAdpeW7dg8j4AVo8gN1Lja3a?dl=0 download and copy them to this folder (change it accordingly): C:\Users\Public\Documents\SmartTechnology Profiles finally, if still in trouble pm me.

One other thing: x52 pro doesnt work on usb 3.0 ports. You have to down grande them to 2.0 first. I have 9 years experience with x52 pro and made a lot of profiles with the sst. I know it has big little issues from time to time but you Just need to understand how to tame the beast and then it'll work like a charm

Hi first question is have you correctly installed hotas drivers and sst software? In the Windows input devices pane, can you See all the hotas buttons (>30) and they all are working correctly? If one of these answers are no, then reinstall drivers. If not, Pm me and maybe we can find a solution via teamspeak or Skype and teamviewer.

Si siamo noi [emoji2] [emoji2] [emoji2] Non voliamo ufficialmente ma diversi do noi hanno anche moduli dcs e ogni tanto ci piace fare un voletto con dcs. Personalmente ho a10c, huey, ka50 e Mig 21... Non eccello in nessuno, ma so fare qualcosa... Diciamo che al momento siamo ancora sbilanciati verso Falcon bms... Ma attendiamo con ansia il f18 e il tomcat per fare il passaggio di massa... [emoji2]

Ciao van quando vuoi farti un voletto in simpatia e senza impegni fai un salto a trovarci. http://Http://drunkenreapers.altervista.org

Maybe Stupid question but essential for troubleshooting. Are you sure you are connecting the positive And negative pins of the led correctly? They are really confusing And is easy to mix anode with cathode. Usually internet images are ok for reference but il you have the tech sheet of your leds it's better. Some led producers don't use the same + And - conventions of others (Just to make things simpler). This is the only idea i have at the moment. If This is the case, your led is Now dark because it broke off. Maybe add some image or info about your assembly.

The resistor is hidden where the circle is. It's a 22 Ohm resistor connected in the positive line to the first LED. LEDs are connected in series and they are 5mm IR LED with a forward voltage of around 1.5-1.6V and around 60mA of forward current. If you look at the LED assembly wizard on freetrack.net --> http://www.free-track.net/english/hardware/calcled/ it gives you a resistor of about 9 ohms...just put around 22 ohms and your LEDs will live forever. The connection scheme you pointed out is ok...actually I think is the one I followed when I begun...:thumbup: At any rate, it really isn't so sensitive, so it's not really required to be very strict on the measurements...you can also just try and see what you get. You can go without a resistor too: you'll have brighter LEDs but probably they won't last very much. The resistor meaning (for the voltage we're working with) is only that it changes the brightness of the LED. consequently it changes its lifespan. High resistor --> - brightness / + lifespan low resistor --> + brightness / - lifespan so, to answer to your question: I think you can use the 30 Ohm resistor, and should have no problem. Probably you should lower the freetrack threshold during daylight because the Leds will be a little fleeble, but I don't think you'll have any issue...You're always in time to make a change, anyway... to connect the LEDs, in the scope of maintanability, you don't need to weld them to the cables, but you can use female strip jumpers like these: this way you can replace any broken LED, in case...but I never did in 7 years! :lol: to connect the wires to the usb connector follow this scheme: you can find unassembled "USB Male Type A connector plugs" on ebay...just make a search for what I wrote inside the "". I hot-glued the LEDs holders to the wooden structure...just be sure to "lock" the cables (mostly if they are solid core = i.e. stiffer) in order to not generate stress to the holders. ah, most important: be sure to flatten the LED heads. This will prevent to disperse the light too much. The cap should not be shiny, but a bit opaque (without scratches though). Use 600-1000 grit sandpaper.

If you're going to use batteries, use rechargeable ones and put a switch between on the "+" line...and remember to switch off the system when stopped flying. I had a battery system (and produced one for a friend), but it's quite a pain...and moved to power cable. If you have an old cellphone charger you can use it: just cut the cable to the cellphone connector and solder it to your freetrack, or make a connector. Calculate the resistor (presumably better in series) to use with the LED Wizard you can find in the freetrack website. Otherwise you can use my solution by attaching a USB Type A male connector and a USB2Power converter (if you want to connect the usb directly to pc...don't do it if you don't know what you're doing!). They usually are at 5V between 0.5-1A. They should work... This way you never have to bother with degrade of quality of the signal because the batteries are passing away... Sorry Doveman, you have PM. By the way I just looked at the dimensions indicated in the freetrack software model tab and started from there...then I dimensioned the whole structure. There is a minimum and maximum dimension range to mantain...however slight deviations are accepted by changing the values in the software and inserting the actual ones. However, the real important setup in freetrack is the OFFSET values that are usually misunderstood. If you put your freetrack on the right ear or left, you have to tell it to the software, otherwise all movements won't be correctly calcuated. The trick is to put the distance of the central led in respect to the center point of you face (around the space between nose and mouth)...I'm not at home now...if required I can share some screenshot). Note that all of this is not required for FaceTrackNoIr because it can use the "autocalibration" feature...

leds are simple IR Led 1.5V you can easily find on ebay with the resistors you want (for 5V supply and 3 in series LEDs it's 22ohm). Then I grinded the head away to get them plain. The surface must not be crystal clear but quite opaque (but without scratches).

Sorry GurbY, I never used Opentrack. However Freetrack works very well and is very easy to setup. The wrong thing is that it runs with x86 compatibility (anyway I have Win7 and it works well...dunno for Win8). Alternative I know is FaceTrackNoIr that is 64bit compatible, a little bit harder to install, but very configurable and precise. Here is a little video I made with my config. Arduino? nah...it's very simple indeed...Leds only need power...they're connected in series with a 22Ohm resistor on the + side. The circuit is powered by a 5V 1A usb connector that is attached to the home 220V output with a cellphone adapter. Here it is the system. the structure is made out of hand-cut 4mm plywood. ps: the VX800 should be removed the IR filter. It is very simple but the cam is very sensible and could be damaged beyond repair. If you need help just tell me. I made a little guide explaining how to mod it...but it's in italian... :smilewink:

Freetrack or facetracknoir with webcam vx800 and selfmade 3 led headphones clip. Also tried trackir 5 and i couldn't see any difference worth all the money trackir asks...

The mode switch is to virtually multiply the hotas buttons within the same profile. At the same time you can create unlimited numbers of profiles each one with up to three modes. So you have plenty of opportunities to have a profile for each aircraft you have got. So... It doesn't appear so limited to me... Concerning your issue. I had similar problems with my x52 in the past. The solution was to map every button with the saitek software as an advanced command or macros. Now that problem is not showing any more. However i had another issue that made crashes when installing drivers : i had to downgrade the usb ports from 3.0 to 2.0 uninstalling the device via control panel.

It is like Classydjo said. Folder aircrafts has been changed to aircraft. The old folder is still there as a backup. Simply copy the mission folder inside aircrafts into the new aircraft folder. Note that inside the folder there are modules specific folders for each aircraft you have.

thanks Lizzard, that worked. I was using JSGME wrong. actually I should've read better the instructions. Now all the downloaded mods work well. thank you.

ok I will try that when at home, thank you. however what I did yesterday actually was the "brute force" modification, excluding JSGME and by adding the 10 files contained in Devrim's mod to the SU-25T-CPT-TEXTURES.zip contained in DCS folder...i.e. I think I made it right!? **EDIT: hmmm...I've read again the instructions for correct use of JSGME and I noted I used it not the correct way. I will try again when at home this evening...

mmh. i have the same problem of doveman maybe... I have moved the content in the mod to the zip file in ..\DCS World\Mods\aircrafts\Su-25T\Cockpit\Resources\Model\Textures\SU-25T-CPT-TEXTURES.zip overwriting the already present files. When in game (instant action free flight) I see a black cockpit with only low-res HSI and HUD... JGSME doesn't seem to do anything... (only successfully installs devrim's&ricardo's black HD Ka-50 cockpit) am i doing something wrong? thanks