CubPilot

Updated Genovation 682, 35 key programmable keypad profile & Key markings for DCS A-10C UFC Updated 5/19/2012 OTHER SECOND LAYER KEYS & KEYS WITH NO MARKINGS I wanted to eliminate the use of my normal keyboard if possible. With these keys added to the second keypad layer I think I have achieved my goal. The normal keyboard may still be needed for some other commands, like Video FPS and other such things, but those will probably be in the little used category. LAYER 1 KEY => on LAYER 2 KEY ( Key Stroke assignment on keyboard & DCS A-10C Options ) 1 ==============> F1 ( F1 thru F12 keystroke are default DCS Options View assignments ) 2 ==============> F2 3 ==============> F3 4 ==============> F4 5 ==============> F5 6 ==============> F6 7 ==============> F7 8 ==============> F8 9 ==============> F9 0 ==============> F10 LTR ============> F11 MK ============> F12 HACK ==========> Weapon to Target View ( F6+LCtrl ) ENT ============> Comms Menu ( \ ) FUNC ==========> Look Back View ( F4+LShift ) SPC ============> Map View-Current Point ( F10+LCtrl ) Active Pause ======> Pause/Break ( s ) Canopy ==========> ESC ( ESC ) Master Caution ====> Eject ( e+LCtrl ) Labels ===========> Night Goggle Toggle ( h+RShift ) + Hud Inten =======> Gain Night Goggles UP ( h+LShift ) - Hud Inten =======> Gain Night Goggles DOWN ( h+LCtrl ) + Steer ==========> Seat UP ( 8 Keypad+LCtrl ) [Keypad software has problems with Right modifiers] - Steer ==========> Seat DOWN ( 2 Keypad+LCtrl ) [same as above] + Depr ==========> Auto Startup ( o ) [ I know, this is sacrilege, but it gives you a choice] - Depr ==========> Auto Shutdown ( y ) Check the key assignments in blue with those in the DCS A-10C Options Menu, some of the above key assignments are not the same as the default DCS key assignments. If I deviated from the default DCS key assignments it was done to get it to work or just the choice I made for keys not assigned by DCS. Now I have to find a function for the key vacated by the Night Goggle move to the Labels Toggle key, Hmmmmmmm. UPDATE: Changed the old Night Goggle Toggle key to BRIEFING TOGGLE, but this may change. If the briefing is long & needs scrolling to see it all, you can't scroll while on a mission,etc., the briefing works normally prior to starting the mission. I will probably put something else here but I don't know what it will be yet. The second layer keys are pretty easy to remember without key markings. The "F" keys can be used for views and Comms just like on the keyboard and the same keys on the main keyboard are still functional. I do use VAC (Voice Activated Commands) but sometimes I don't want to use the headset mic and this also serves as a backup to VAC in case there is a problem with it mid game... errr sim. This is still subject to "tweaking" as you can see, but it's getting very close to being done I think. The keyboard label templates have some keys unmarked, but with various backgrounds. Use these to add your own "custom" keys. I think you can add lettering using a photo editing program. I can now do without my keyboard completely, for the most part. :D 5/31/2012: A updated zip file is attached to correct some errors with the previous file. It includes the Genovation keypad markings and the profile for DCS A-10C. P.S. If you have TrackIR or are using VAC (Voice Activated Control) I have two AutoHotKey scripts on the forum that might be useful to you. By using AutoHotKey, if you have a HOTAS Warthog, you can still retain the plug & play of DCS A-10C with the Warthog. No need to re-invent DCS/HOTAS Warthog functionality using T.A.R.G.E.T. The AutoHotKey files will not impact game performance. I use a .bat file to load the two AutoHotKey files and VAC with one click (VAC automatically loads the proper profile & turns on), then click to open DCS A-10C. For TrackIR, I mapped my joystick Pinky Switch to CENTER or PAUSE TrackIR. Center is a short press, PAUSE is a long press. It goes along with how the other buttons are programmed on the HOTAS nicely. PAUSE is very nice to have when using the clickable cockpit. For VAC I mapped the COMM button UP to act as VAC's PTA switch. I was thinking that would leave the COMMS button IN position open for Teamspeak or similar programs. These scripts could be easily modified for other HOTAS buttons. More info and downloads at http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=87543 . :pilotfly: a-10c_ufc_genovation_keypad_053112.zip

Thanks. I keep plugging along when I have the time. :pilotfly:

The switch covers in an aircraft are there to avoid accidental activation of a switch. In real life & DCS they are only a cover. No electrical switching is done with the switch cover. The actual switch does the work. So the answer is you can ignore the switch covers. They are only needed in real life and for those building a sim cockpit who wants to simulate the real look of the cockpit they are modeling. :pilotfly:

Sounds like a nice setup, I don't have the razer naga mouse like you do, So I control my TIR with the Warthog joystick pinky lever. I find it to be a very handy position for it, at least for me. I use a AutoHotKey script that mimics the other buttons on the warthog joystick & throttle. A short press of the pinky lever CENTERS TIR, a long press of the pinky lever toggles PAUSING TIR. :D More info here. :pilotfly:

Don't give up yet! It does take some time and adjusting TrackIR to your liking. I can help with this, "For me TrackIR perhaps would be usable if there were some kind of activation key." I use a AutoHotKey script that allows me to control TrackIR from my Warthog Joystick pinky lever. A short press CENTERS TrackIR, a long press PAUSES TrackIR (acts as a toggle). :D The script can be adapted for any joystick & any button on it. Go here for more info. I find the pause useful for using the clickable cockpit, those switches, buttons, and knobs don't run away from your mouse cursor anymore! Another idea is to use Precision Mode. It slows TIR movement down a bit, it isn't as jerky. I have it mapped to my Warthog throttle's 1st trigger switch & it activates just prior to using the gun or before if you activate it while lining up on a target. You may have to map it to a different button. I don't know what joystick you have. :pilotfly:

IT may be that the problem is the time between combined keystrokes. I have had to modify my programmable keypad settings twice with recent A-10C patches so keys with modifiers would work correctly. All I changed was the time interval between the individual key strokes.

Sounds like you have the TrackIR CENTER function mapped to your left mouse button. Check what is mapped to the CENTER setting in TrackIR. Click on the box that displays what key toggles TrackIR ON-OFF and assign another key. I think F12 is the default setting. What controller are you using?

Add a VAC PTA button to the HOTAS WARTHOG Throttle Add a VAC PTA button to the HOTAS WARTHOG Throttle To retain DCS A-10C HOTAS Warthog plug & play without using T.A.R.G.E.T. This AutoHot Key script will add a VAC (Voice Activated Control) "Push To Activate Button" to the UP position of the Comms switch on the HOTAS Warthog Throttle. I can not take credit for the AutoHotKey scripts. I found it on the AutoHotKey website in the Documentation section and adapted it to what I wanted to do. I used " F14" for the VAC PTA Button (F13 to F24 are usable). This should result in no conflicts with DCS's default key bindings, I doubt that they will ever use these keys. The .ahk file can be edited for use with other joystick controllers as well as what button is used on your controller and what key is mapped to that button. The AutoHotKey ".exe" file in the zip file below uses the Radio "UP" button on the Warthog throttle. Another button could be used by modifing the AutoHotKey file. This leaves "Push" radio button on the Warthog throttle that DCS does not use and could be assigned for something else. What's Needed: - If you don't have AutoHotKey L installed go here to download the program. - If you want to edit & compile (create the .exe files) the AutoHotKey scripts a very nice editor is located here. It can also be used to modify the scripts, for instance to do the same to different controller buttons. - Download my AutoHotKey script (the zip file in my post). There is one .exe file and one .ahk file. The .exe & .ahk files of the same name go together, the .exe file is the compiled .ahk file. If you open the .ahk file in the editor or notepad there are more instructions for each file. - I included a copy of JoyIDs. It is a neat little program that lets you move any connected controller to any Windows Controller ID#. This can come in handy to put controllers on the ID# that is needed for the AutoHotKey script to work properly, if needed. 5/22/12 Added instructions: SETUP VAC (Voice Activated Control) 1. Open VAC Builder and load your DCS A-10C Profile (or make one). 2. In the Profile Activation Keys / Push To Activate Commands section Choose NONE for the first drop down box, choose F14 from the second drop down box. 3. In the same section choose DEFAULT, TOGGLE, or ARM. - DEFAULT acts as a mic button, push to talk, let go when done. However, you will need to hold it down a bit longer after you are done talking to give the command enough time to be sent completely. - TOGGLE acts like its name, push the button to activate VAC's mic, push the button again to turn off VAC's mic. - ARM is probably the best choice (I used this one), push the button to talk & even if you let go part way through talking or part way through a sent command it turns off automatically only after the command has been sent in its entirety. 4. That's it for setting up VAC! USE WITH DCS A-10C 1. Install AutoHotKey L (if you haven't already) 2a. Check to see what Windows Controller ID# your Warthog joystick is, It needs to be Controller #1 to work with the AHK script in the zip file below. Use "JoyIDs" to check the ID# and change it if needed. OR 2b. The other option is to go to Windows/Start/Devices& Printers/Thrustmaster HOTAS Warthog Throttle/Game Controller Settings and choose Throttle - HOTAS Warthog/Advanced. Change your "Preferred Device" to Throttle - HOTAS Warthog. This will also assign it to Controller ID#1. 3. Download and open the zip file attached to this post. 4. Setup " WH_DCS_A-10_PTA.exe " to run as an administrator. 5. Double click on " WH_DCS_A-10_PTA.exe " Icon prior to opening DCS A-10C. 6. Open VAC (using your DCS A-10C profile) and turn it ON prior to opening DCS A-10C . ENJOY! WH_DCS_A-10_VAC_PTA.zip

Hope it helps. :pilotfly:

Not sure if this will cure or help find the problem. It might be a USB thing, if TrackIR is causing it I don't know. I do know of some cases of the Cougar (ya, I know, a dirty word to some CH users) losing the USB connection and that USB port would no longer work with the Cougar. Not exactly the same as your problem, but this utility would fix the USB communication problem. What can be done is to unplug your joystick, throttle, etc. and then open the utility and delete every instance of USB connections related to your controllers (this includes items that were connected but not connected at the moment), then plug your controllers back in again. This would fix the Cougar problem. Seems the USB registry (for lack of a better word) would be cleaned of old USB connections and this helped get things back to normal. Download USBDview here. It will give a lot of info about the USB devices connected to or that were connected to your computer. :pilotfly:

Add a TrackIR CENTER & PAUSE key to the HOTAS WARTHOG Joystick Retain DCS A-10C HOTAS Warthog plug & play without using T.A.R.G.E.T. This AutoHotKey script will add the TrackIR CENTER & PAUSE hotkeys to your HOTAS Warthog Joystick Pinky Lever. It will use the same format as the other buttons in that a short press of the lever will CENTER the TrackIR and a long press of the lever will PAUSE the TrackIR. The CENTER hotkey acts as a button press, the PAUSE hotkey acts as a toggle, turning the associated command ON or OFF. With the TrackIR CENTER button on the joystick it is really handy. However, only having the CENTER TrackIR button is not enough if you also need to use DCS A-10C's clickable cockpit. With TrackIR active it can be very hard to use the mouse to click those switches, etc. The slightest movement of your head usually moves the intended target of your mouse cursor anywhere except under the cursor. With the HOTAS Warthog why use AutoHotKey and not the TM's T.A.R.G.E.T. software to do this? First, since the Warthog is "plug & play" with DCS A-10C it is easier to keep that functionality and not have to reinvent the wheel re-programming the joystick using T.A.R.G.E.T. Second reason is not having to have it running along with DCS A-10-C which could have a greater impact on your computers performance. I can not take credit for the AutoHotKey script. I found it on the AutoHotKey website in the Documentation section and in the Forum. I chose the F15 key to CENTER & the F16 key to PAUSE TrackIR and the included file uses these keys in setting up and re-mapping the joystick pinky lever. The result is no conflicts with DCS's default key bindings, I doubt that they will ever use these keys. What's Needed: - If you don't have AutoHotKey L installed go here to download the program. - If you want to edit & compile (create .exe files) the AutoHotKey scripts a very nice editor is located here. It can also be used to modify the scripts, for instance to do the same to different controller buttons. - Download my AutoHotKey script (the zip file in my post). The .exe file is used to set up TrackIR & to use with DCS A-10C. The .ahk file is for opening with the editor if you want to make changes to the script. - I included a copy of JoyIDs. It is a neat little program that lets you move any connected controller to any Windows Controller ID#. Use it to put your controller on the ID# needed for the AHK script to work properly. 1/6/2013 Updated instructions: UPDATE: I updated the readme file in the attached zip file. It now has pictures to help in getting this set up properly. This has been tested with TrackIR version 5.1 and 5.2 software with Win7 64 and would probably work for other versions also. SETUP TrackIR 1. Install AutoHotKey L (if you haven't already). 2. Check to see what Windows Controller ID# your Warthog joystick is, It needs to be Controller #2 to work with the AHK script in the zip file below. Use "JoyIDs" to check the ID# and change it if needed. 3. Create your personal DCS A-10C TrackIR profile in the TrackIR software. I suggest that you create a new DCS profile if you don't already have your own tweaked profile. You can use the downloaded TrackIR DCS A-10C profile from TrackIR for a baseline starting point and tweak the settings to your taste (you don't need to tweak it right now). 3a) Open TrackIR. 3b) Select the "Profiles Tab" and select "Default" in the Profile drop down box. 3c) To the right is a "+" & "-" sign with an Icon between them. Click on that Icon to copy the default profile and type in a new name in the window that opens (I named my personal DCS profile "CubbyDCS", my online name, + DCS, but use whatever works for you). Then click OK. OR 3d) If you already have your tweaked DCS profile, Open the TrackIR software and make a note of the name of your personal (tweaked) DCS TrackIR profile. 4. To change the TrackIR "CENTER" & "PAUSE" Hotkeys. Open Windows Explorer and navigate to (assuming a default TrackIR install location in Win7) C: Program Files (x86)/NaturalPoint/TrackIR5/Profiles/(your profile name).xml Open "(your profile name).xml" with Notepad or Notepad++ and edit the appropriate TrackIR Hotkeys manually. The Center & Pause Hotkey entries are near the bottom of the file (around line 205 if using Notepad++) and look something as shown below(some of the values may be different from what is shown if you have different options selected in your profile. The items we are concerned with shown are in bold type. Look for the "Center" Hotkey entry shown above in bold black type. Change the KEY value to "126" (F15=126) as shown in bold red type above. Look for the "Pause" Hotkey entry shown above in black bold type. Change the KEY value to "127" (F16=127) as shown in red type above. Save the file. 5. Open TrackIR. If your modified DCS profile is selected you need to load another profile. If the save profile window appears choose "NO". Then load your modified DCS profile again, F15 & F16 should be there now for the Center & Pause hotkeys. NOTE: Checkmark TrackIR/ProfilesTab/Hotkeys/ ENABLE & TOGGLE options for PAUSE (F16) & CENTER (F15) Hotkeys. 6. Download and extract the zip file attached to this post. The DCS Saved Games folder might be a good place to put it. 7. Right click on "WH_DCS_A-10_TrackIR_short_long.exe". Select Properties/Compatability Tab/Privilege Level, and check the "Run this program as an administrator" box. 8. It's a good idea to make sure your TrackIR software is also run as an administrator at this time. It should be as that is part of the install instructions, but just in case...... USE WITH DCS A-10C 1. Double click on the " WH_DCS_A-10_TrackIR_short_long.exe " Icon to open the script if you put it on the desktop or placed an Icon on the desktop linked to its path on your computer. I made a small ".bat" file that opens the AHK script for the TrackIR Center & Pause functions and another AHK script to open VAC with the proper profile and start VAC all in one click. Then I click to open DCS A-10C. bat file: (The paths to the AHK file locations would need to be edited to point to where you put your files if you want to try this as well as the file names if they are different. Any line beginning with "rem" is not executed, it only serves as a note as to what the code means or other info) 2. Open DCS A-10C and enjoy! ENJOY! autohotkey-trackir-warthog_1-6-2013.zip

Glad you got something useful from my post. I figure that the F13 thru F24 keys will be safe from ever being used by DCS for key bindings because they aren't on a normal keyboard (at least not that I'm aware of). I never thought of doing something similar in Foxy for the Cougar. Seems that you have expanded the "envelope" of using these keys.

I got around any conflicts with DCS A-10C key assignments by using "F14" as the VAC mic switch. Then I used a small AutoHotKey script to map F14 to the UP position of the Warthog throttle. Doing it this way preserves the Warthog plug & play feature, no need for T.A.R.G.E.T ! In VAC Profile Activation Keys I set the first box to "None" next box to "F14" and ticked Default. It acts just like a mic switch, hold down to say the command (+ a bit of time for the command to complete), release to close mic when done. Load that AHK script just before A-10C and go fly. :D If anyone is interested in this method I can attach the files.

If you have a key set up in VAC to activate VAC it might be that you are letting go of the key too soon. VAC needs enough time to complete the command. It may also be a good idea to check that VAC System exe (or shortcut) is set to run as administrator if using Win7 (& maybe Vista).

Joystick chair Mount continued I took a few moments to fix my Warthog Joystick to my chair. It wasn't hard as it involved marking and drilling the holes for the joystick base and a few more for the PVC drain pipe (not gluing the PVC yet so I can determine the ideal joystick height). I started with these parts and it shows my progress at that time here. Continuing on from that point...... I decided to abandon the metal plate attachment mentioned in the previous post about this and give the screw in drain screen a try. I started by taking the base plate off the Warthog joystick and using it for a template to drill the holes in the offset shower drain. The outline of the round joystick base is used to center the drain to locate the holes. After getting the drain properly placed on the base plate I taped it down being careful not to move the drain. Flip both pieces over and mark the hole locations with a magic marker. Make sure that the marker blackens the full circumference of the holes from edge to edge and all around the hole. I had already drilled my holes so you don't see the black marks in this photo. This is what you have after drilling the holes being careful to drill centered inside the black hole locating circles made previously. The black "X" (barely visible at the top of the drain screen) marks the position of the USB cable exiting from the front of the joystick. NOTE: It is important to screw this piece into the drain to find where the "X" has to be before marking and drilling the four mounting holes. It needs to be marked in a location where the threads are screwed in tightly enough so the joystick will not twist easily during use and the joystick is pointing in the correct position (straight ahead). This will avoid the joystick twisting during normal use. If you are careful this is the view of the other side after drilling the four holes. At each hole, the ridge at the bottom of the threads needs trimming to allow room for the joystick base screws. I used a small hand saw to do this, x4. Line up the "X" with the joystick USB cable outlet from the joystick base and install the screws. I used 4mm Socket Head Cap Screws. The largest diameter of the PVC drain strainer is a perfect match to the Warthog joystick base! Another view of the assembled parts. Volla! The Joystick is screwed into the PVC offset drain. I turned the offset drain 180 degrees from the position shown in post #87. It is just about perfect for me as far as how far aft it is located. I didn't want nor need to cut the leather seat. I used screws to fasten the vertical pipe because I may want to alter the height. I will glue it later. I'm toying with making a short joystick extension with a 15 degree twist of the handle dialed into it. A slightly closer view. The schedule 40 PVC pipe is pretty stable with very little wiggle. I could add a PVC Conduit clamp attached to the chair cushion base to steady it some more if needed. The throttle is temporarily resting on a board clamped to the bottom of the keyboard tray. Not the best location, but OK for now. I must say that having the joystick mounted in the center position is........ what can I say.............. A JOY! Sure beats having it on a desk and having to reach up to use it. :D Getting out of the chair isn't hard. As it is now I simply stand up and move forward. As I pass over the joystick it barely brushes the family jewels. Of course I move slowly so as not to break something on the joystick, one has to have their priorities in the proper order! :lol: :pilotfly:

A little more progress / improvements Due to some personal issues needing all of my attention I haven't had very much time to spend on my "pit lite-not to real A-10C dimensions" project. Things are getting back to a more normal state and I have made some modest progress. I have refined my UFC key markings and added some more items to the second layer of the keypad that I use for the UFC. Above is my original version with very few second layer keys programmed. New Key Templates shown above I made my own key template using PagePlus using Arial Narrow Bold for the font to allow the maximum point size to be used with the narrow keys. I wanted to go with black key backgrounds because some of the colored keys did not show up well under the green LED flood lighting that I am using and white lettering and a black background adds maximum contrast, which makes things easier to see. I did this because the key templates supplied from the keyboard manufacturer had black key outlines for cutting, it's pretty hard to see where to cut the keys out when the keys & cut lines are the same color. These templates are printed on my photo inkjet printer on 4x6 Epson Glossy Photo Paper, as opposed to using 24lb Bright White writing paper I used for the first version. The white letters really pop out on the glossy photo paper and using the publishing program makes my lettering much sharper (as opposed to using a photo program to letter using the .jpg template from the keyboard manufacturer). After I'm satisfied with the labeling I save the file as a .png and then print in on my inkjet photo printer. When cutting I use a Carl Rotary Trimmer and just cut off the white trim lines. Sometimes a bit of additional trimming is needed with an Exacto knife to fine tune the label. Above are the new key markings cut and installed. So here's my logic as to key markings: FIRST KEYPAD LAYER 1- Any key with a BLACK background and WHITE letters is an UFC key. 2- One exception to #1 above is the FUNC key (more about that later). 3- The Functions are marked with BLACK letters on a YELLOW background. 4- The Function key "FUNC" is Black letters on a YELLOW background with a primary background of BLACK. This is a reminder that to activate a function you need to first push the FUNC key and then choose the function you desire. 5- Keys with a RED background are on the first keypad layer and are not A-10C controls, these include the Keypad Layer Toggle Key & the Active Pause key. One exception is the ESC key, which has a white background with black letters. These I consider to be system control keys. 6- Keys with a BLUE background and WHITE lettering are on the first keypad layer and are additional A-10C controls not associated with the UFC keys. 7- The Master Caution & Eject keys have been combined on one "double" key. The Master Caution is on the first keypad layer. 8- On any non-UFC key with dual markings, the upper key marking is always on the first keypad layer, the bottom key marking is always on the second keypad layer. ON THE SECOND KEYPAD LAYER 1- The EJECT key is activated when on the second keypad layer. This offers some safety from accidentally Ejecting as the most time will be spent using the first keypad layer keys. 2- Excluding the UFC keys and the Master Caution/Eject keys, second keypad layer key markings will have a white background with black lettering and be located on the bottom half of the key. 3- When the second keypad layer is active the KEYPAD LAYER key will have a LED activated inside a white box on the key. There is a "2" in black lettering inside the white box to remind you that white background and black lettering indicates second keypad keys, (Excluding the UFC keys and the Master Caution/Eject keys). Second keypad layer activated shown above. The white dot is actually blue, but the camera cannot expose properly for the darkest and lightest parts of the photo at the same time. I did not make a cutout for the LED in the key label, it is very bright and when covered with the photo paper it is dimmer, but quite usable. OTHER SECOND LAYER KEYS WITH NO MARKING I wanted to eliminate the use of my normal keyboard if possible. With these keys added to the second keypad layer I think I have achieved my goal. The normal keyboard may still be needed for some other commands, like Video FPS and other such things, but those will probably be in the little used category. LAYER 1 KEY = on LAYER 2 KEY 1 ==============> F1 2 ==============> F2 3 ==============> F3 4 ==============> F4 5 ==============> F5 6 ==============> F6 7 ==============> F7 8 ==============> F8 9 ==============> F9 0 ==============> F10 Continuing across the row to finish the "F" keys, LTR =============> F11 MK ==============> F12 HACK ============> Weapon to Target View ENT =============> Comms Menu ( \ ) FUNC ============> Look Back View SPC =============> Map View-Current Point Active Pause =======> Pause/Break Canopy ===========> ESC Master Caution =====> Eject Labels ===========> Night Goggle * - Hud Inten ========> Gain Night Goggles DOWN + Hud Inten ========> Gain Night Goggles UP * The Night Goggle button as shown in the photos above will be moved to the the second keypad layer of the Labels Toggle key. It makes more sense to put the Night Goggle Toggle on the same layer as the Night Goggle Gain controls. Now I have to find a function for the key vacated by the Night Goggle move to the Labels Toggle key, Hmmmmmmm. The second layer keys are pretty easy to remember without key markings. The "F" keys can be used for views and comms just like on the keyboard and the same keys on the main keyboard are still functional. I do use VAC (Voice Activated Commands) but sometimes I don't want to use the headset mic and this also serves as a backup to VAC in case there is a problem with it mid game... errr sim. This is still subject to "tweaking" as you can see, but it's getting very close to being done I think. UPDATED: Second Layer Keys with A-10C / Options menu key binding assignments here . The zip file also contains the key markings and the keypad profile. I can now do without my keyboard completely, for the most part. :D Above, The keypad under the green LED Flood Lighting. It does look better with your MkII eyeballs than the photo suggests. :pilotfly:

PM sent a short time ago igluck.

Could it be as easy as moving your MFCD's in the vid driver so they are under the left & right monitor instead of under the middle monitor & increase the height of L&R monitors to account for the small monitors? Probably not, but worth thinking about. I'm afraid you are in waters that I have never been in. :pilotfly:

More screens there than I have. So I might not be of much help. I would try to only change the x value first to see if you can get the left MFCD to display on your middle monitor, maybe try 1500 to account for the monitor bezels. If that works change the y value next. Do you get the MFCD output to display on any of your monitors? :pilotfly:

I am using Win7 64bit and ATI/AMD video cards with my setup. My best vid card runs the main monitor, my older card runs the MFCD's (you don't need a high power card for the MFCD's), NOT in crossfire mode. I guess you only need one video card if you have three or more monitor connections on it and I have heard that you may get better frame rates with this configuration if your card has enough HP. All my monitors are VGA and my MFCD monitors are 8", 4:3 aspect ratio like yours. For the DCS A-10C lua file I'm doing it the old fashioned way, as it was in the Beta builds. The new way of doing this had quite a few scratching their heads on how to use it. It may be a better way, but the old way still works for me. I did need to tweak the lua file a bit to fine tune MFCD display vid output positioning with some of the early non beta patches but lately this has not been a problem. I would suggest that Notepad++ be used to make any changes to lua files, notepad/Word may add unwanted items to the file when saving and then the lua file might not work correctly. My monitors are: Main 1600x1200, MFCD's each at 800x600 (you don't need higher resolution for MFCD's). If your monitors are a different resolution all these numbers will be different and dependent on your monitor resolutions. Here's my MFCD lua file: _ = function(p) return p; end; name = _('Cubbys'); Description = 'name= above can be changed to your name if you wish. Then in DCS System/Graphics UI screen select "Cubbys" (or "your name") in the Monitors drop down list box.; Description = 'Left MFCD on left monitor,Right MFCD on right monitor,Camera center configuration'; Description = 'Setup for Main monitor at 1600x1200, Left/Right MFCDs (8",4:3 ratio) each at 800x600, set in video card driver directly below Main monitor in extended screen mode'; Description = 'NOTE: type in 1600x1800 (Main height 1200+MFCD height 600=1800) in DCS A-10C Options/Systems Graphics UI screen for this configuration'; Description = 'Aspect Ratio= width/height, example as below 1600/1200= 1.33333333. But aspect ratio setting in sim is different, example 1600/1800= 0.88888888888889'; Description = 'Different screen resolutions will use different numbers'; Description = 'MFCD X and Y settings move MFCD displays on monitor. X=0 Y=0 is in upper lefthand corner of Main monitor. Width and Height refers to MFCD screen graphics size.'; Viewports = { Center = { x = 0; y = 0; width = 1600; height = 1200; viewDx = 0; viewDy = 0; aspect = 1.33333333; } } LEFT_MFCD = { x = 120; y = 1225; width = 550; height = 550; } RIGHT_MFCD = { x = 915; y = 1225; width = 550; height = 550; } UIMainView = Viewports.Center Hope this helps. :pilotfly:

This is one way shown here , post #87. The PVC drain pipe could be replaced with thinner metal parts if you can work with that material. The wood base mount is very sturdy, no wiggling problems and would be a good starting point to begin from. It does cover the seat recline tension adjustment knob. Not a problem for me as I have it as tight as it will go and don't want the seat to recline anyways. I plan to have the Warthog stick (and round base) easily removable by a twisting action for those times I'm not simming or to make it easier to get in the chair. For my chair I don't need the stick further back because my seat bottom is not as long as on the real A-10 seat, although the offset drain could be rotated rearward to move the stick aft if needed. I also have an idea to lock the seat to keep it from rotating during flight, then unlock it to be able to swivel the seat to make it easier to get in and out of. Then again, WinnTTr's solution might be more exciting! :megalol: :pilotfly:

If DCS has the canopy switch modeled correctly the answer is yes. It works like this: Switch UP raises canopy (switch stays up if you let go) Switch CENTER is HOLD (switch stays in center position if you let go) Switch DOWN is CLOSE (switch springs back to HOLD if you let go) So, to model this correctly you need a three position switch that has a momentary action on one switch position (ON-OFF-ON momentary). Also DCS does not have the hold function of this switch in the Control Options to model it correctly for a physical switch, it is programmed as a toggle. So one way to get around this limitation is to use Helios to get this switch to act correctly. Helios is very good software, but documentation for noobys is sparse. I needed some :helpsmilie: to get this to work..... info here. Note: I have not tested this with the current version of DCS. :pilotfly:

Yes, I did think of something to keep the handle up. First, so that the handle worked smoothly, I added a small piece of 10 Mil thick UHMW Tape between the handle lever and the angle mounting bracket. This tape is very slippery and no lubrication is needed, one side has adhesive on it so I could stick the tape to the lever. You can just barely see it in the photo above, it's black. Then to add enough friction to hold the LDG handle up when I let go of it I added a compression spring to the bolt, shown above at the right side of the angle bracket under the nylock nut (looks like chrome plated threads under the nut, but is actually a spring). The nylock nut has a nylon material in it that will lock it to the threads of the bolt so it will not loosen up in use. Back to the spring. I tried to get one that fit over the bolt and was a bit bigger than the bolt diameter so the spring would compress without the spring coils clamping onto the bolt in the process. This did not work as I intended because the spring I used didn't have enough tension to do the job. I could have looked for a stronger spring but instead I tightened the spring I had to the point of having the spring coils actually touch each other, in other words binding the coils together (no space between the spring coils). I kept tightening the spring until I got the result I was looking for. The result is a very smooth LDG lever action and it stays put, and I can adjust the friction my taste. :pilotfly:

That's why I was asking. I thought I saw it in the sim, but didn't know what the real switch has. So, forget the white for the auto switch. When the switch is pulled out does the switch handle diameter become larger, or is it the same diameter as the smallest diameter of the switch handle? :pilotfly:

Not bad at all. Here's a thought. Replace the top nut on this car switch with an internal threaded collar that extends up high enough so its top is just above the bottom of the chrome knob when its pulled out. The larger, bottom part of the chrome knob is white which shows when the switch is pulled out, doesn't show when the switch is pushed in. The rest of the switch handle is black. If the actual A-10 switch has a marker (white) showing when pulled out (Deadman?) this would mimic that feature on the auto switch reasonable well. :pilotfly: