eaglecash867

Glad you got it working Komet!

When you said the driver of the USB hub was installed, did you mean the driver that was on the disk that came with the card? If so, I wonder if that might be the problem. I know they tell you "You MUST install this driver" but I just looked at my rig's Device Manager, and it looks like mine is just using the standard Microsoft drivers for Windows 10. I think I remember hearing about other people having trouble with the drivers that come with the card. I never got as far as installing the driver that came with it because it worked right away, except for my mistake of not plugging in the power supply cable at first. Go to Device Manager and look at everything under Universal Serial Bus controllers (I would scroll down so the heading Universal Serial Bus Controllers is at the top of the window), then, plug in the power cord for your G2s power brick. You should see the Device Manager window reset itself within a few seconds as it responds to the headset. If it doesn't, it is probably not a USB issue. If it does, see if you can find what the new entry is under the Universal Serial Bus controllers. If you see an Inateck Controller or Hub show up, maybe you can try to update the driver to the generic driver on your computer. Also, you might have already tried this, but try unplugging all of your other USB devices and see if just the headset will run by itself. If it still doesn't, then you should talk to HP tech support like Edmuss suggested

Komet, Do you have the internal connector on the card hooked up to your rig's power supply? It is set up to plug directly into a spare SATA power cable if you have one available. If not, it should have come with an adapter to let you make use of one of your other spare power supply connectors. It has to have that power supply connection to work properly with a VR headset. Not trying to over-simplify things. I had the same thing happen when I first got my card because I hadn't plugged in the power supply connector on it.

Dodging missiles is one of the big advantages to VR. You have depth perception, as well as the 1:1 head movement that makes knowing how to maneuver instinctual. If you can see it, you can defeat it, often without using any countermeasures. As far as immersion breakers go, on the pancake, the immersion breakers are pretty much anything in the room for me. In VR, the only occasional immersion breaker is when an invisible cat paw comes through the side of the cockpit and touches my arm...or when the same invisible cat ends up in the rudder pedals while he's biting my feet.

Yup. Normal for a G2, unfortunately. I ended up selling my G1 the other day, so I put it on briefly to make sure it still worked, and was a little reluctant to go through with the sale. The G1 had better edge-to-edge clarity. But, then I remembered all of the other issues the G1 inherently had...it definitely had much more noticeable screen-door effect, and I hated that short tow-rated cable it had.

I have been flying DCS almost exclusively in VR since the days of the Oculus Rift CV1 and DCS 1.5. It took me a little while, experimenting with settings, mostly in DCS, to figure out what had the biggest impact on my individual experience. I found that there were a lot of things that some consider "essential" that were performance killers, and honestly, I found that I didn't miss any of those things after turning them off/down. Beyond that initial experimentation, and some occasional up-tweaking each time I built a new rig that could handle more, I haven't spent really any time on mods, tweaks, or chasing FPS dragons that the next guy said he was able to catch. It is what it is, and I'm happy with it. In my opinion, flying DCS on the pancake just doesn't do anything for me, no matter how much "better" things look. I was on a LONG hiatus from DCS until VR came along and gave it new life.

You can prevent Oculus from starting automatically by going to the shortcut and selecting "Run as administrator".

Follow this path on whatever drive you have Steam installed on: \Steam\steamapps\common\MixedRealityVRDriver\bin\win64\OpenVRSettingsUX.exe When you run that, a little black window will come up on your desktop screen. Click on the "Graphics" tab on the left, and that will show graphics settings for WMR, including the current Motion Reprojection status highlighted cyan. Just make sure yours is set for either "Auto" or "Motion Vector" It will stay set the way you set it until you go back in and change it. No DCS keypresses to remember, and no need for the hand controllers.

In addition to Tom Kazansky's advice, SteamVR also has a habit of putting its little window right in the middle of your screen, so if you click something near the center of the DCS menu in VR, your mouse will become stuck in the SteamVR window and the pointer will no longer show in the DCS menu. In that case, you'll have to lift the G2 so you can see your monitor, fight the mouse to get it to minimize the SteamVR window, and then you should be good in DCS with a mouse pointer.

Yup. That's exactly when I installed mine, and it was that exact card that Oculus recommended to everybody back in the day. Been using the same one ever since. Good to hear! Hope it solves all of your issues.

Komet_82, it is a PCIe card, so it will plug into your PCIe X4 slot on the motherboard. There is a connector on the inboard side of the card that plugs into a SATA power cable from your rig's power supply. Then you just plug your G2's USB-C adapter into one of the USB ports on the card and you should be good.

Komet_82, please have a look at my posts in this thread: There's a possibility that you're coming up short on USB power. Flying in DCS usually aggravates that problem because of all of the HOTAS stuff you plug in with that, as opposed to non-flight sim applications that may work fine. I can't run my G2 on a MB USB port, so I have it plugged into the card that I have listed in the thread. Works like a champ with that and the G2s USB-C adapter.

BusPilot, I was running a G2 on an 8700K and GTX2080Ti before I started doing any serious upgrades and DCS ran really well for me. But, I don't do any flying on multi-player servers. How does it run with single player? If it also runs poorly on single player, try browsing the forum for some threads about tweaking performance. I'm thinking that with the way you have things configured currently, you'll end up dumping a bunch of money into upgrading, and its still not going to run all that well for you and end up being a huge disappointment. Lots of guys here with similar rigs to your current one that are getting good results. Once you get it tweaked and running well on what you have, any hardware upgrades you do will just be a bonus.

I can't speak for the 5800X3D, but I'm loving the 12900KS rig that I just built with DDR5 memory. Check around on this forum and others about the RTX3090Ti, however. I recently tried helping someone with a 3090Ti who was having compatibility issues with his G2, and apparently that's an issue that has been reported elsewhere. I have the non-Ti RTX3090, and it runs great with my G2.

That's kinda my point though. If your USB card doesn't have those connections, its not going to do anything to help, because its still using bus power from the motherboard. If your motherboard's bus power can't deliver enough current through that PCIEX4 slot, one card/headset combination may work while another combination doesn't. But, as long as you were able to return the 3090ti for a full refund, I guess the other thing doesn't matter at this point. Its a shame that MSI didn't provide you with better service, considering how much money you spent with them.

If the USB card you plugged into your PCIE slot doesn't have a connector on the inboard side to let you plug into a spare power supply cable inside your machine, its not going to give you any more power than what any of your motherboard USB ports can provide. That won't do anything for you except compound the problem. Not sure why they even sell non-powered PCIE USB cards. LOL. This is what I have in my machine that solved my "Connect Cable" issues on my G2 when I went from the 2080ti to 3090. This or another brand with an internal power supply connection is what you need. Some here have had trouble with the Inatek card, but mine has always been solid. Note the extra connectors on the inboard side of the card in the pic, and the cables that are included for connecting it to your machine's power supply. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just to check that you didn't make the same mistake I did when installing the USB card, did you plug the power connector on top of the card into a spare power supply cable in your machine? When I put mine in, I assumed the power receptacle on it was some sort of expansion port or something, so it didn't help anything on the first go.

I had a similar issue when I upgraded from a GTX2080Ti to the RTX3090 because the 3090 didn't have an on-board USB C connector like my 2080Ti did. I used the USB C to USB A adapter that came with my G2, and that fixed the problem for me. But, the reason that worked is because I have an Inatek powered USB card plugged into the PCI Express X4 slot on my motherboard which is getting power from a connector that goes straight to my rig's power supply. The USB C port on my motherboard, as well as the USB A ports on the motherboard just didn't have enough juice to run the headset reliably. I started using that Inatek card way back in the days when I got my first VR headset, which was an Oculus Rift CV1, for the same reasons. Motherboard USB power may not be enough, depending on how many other USB devices you have plugged in. I have 3 external USB hard drives for file backup and audio/video server use which are on all the time, so my situation made the powered USB card necessary. I'm pretty sure your issue is from coming up short on USB power.

Just get an Iron Flask cooler bottle. You can drink from it without lifting the HMD, and at worst you spill a drop or two if you happen to knock it over when the spout is open.

Not $3500.00+ like the scalpers were trying to get.

I got on the waiting list at EVGA, and it took 9 months for my turn to come up. Paid a normal price for it, and they didn't take money up-front. It was a great thing...just wish it hadn't taken so long.

Glad you're happy with your decision Rogue Trooper. With the 3090, sometimes I'll fly the A-10C on the Nevada map and think "Huh...now I'm not seeing an occasional split image as my wingman flies by me when we're attacking targets...wonder if a new update made that happen..." But, after getting out of DCS, I pull up my reprojection settings and find out the lack of ghosting was because I had just flown an entire mission with no motion reprojection at all. I had forgotten to turn it back on after watching a 3D Blu Ray with the G2. Couldn't have done that with the 2080ti.

Hi NavyKnight, The place you need to go on your machine is here (I copied and pasted the following path from Dureiken's post): C:\Program Files (x86)\Steam\steamapps\common\MixedRealityVRDriver\bin\win64\OpenVRSettingsUX.exe Just remember, the path shown above may differ from machine to machine, depending on where you installed Steam. When you run that "OpenVRSettingsUX.exe" file, you will get a screen just like what Dureiken has in his post from 11-21-21. Click on the graphics tab on the left of that box, and then select either Auto or Motion Vector in the menu on the right. Personally, I like to use the Motion Vector setting because it keeps motion vectoring turned on at all times. With it set to Auto, I found that it would sometimes have these little "hitches" in the smoothness of the display as motion vectoring was automatically switched on and off. As for the FPS counter, when you have motion vectoring (not motion smoothing) turned on, that will show a number that will never go higher than 45 fps. But, don't be discouraged by that, because FPS counters are not capable of measuring the interpolated frames generated by motion vectoring. You're actually getting an FPS anywhere from 45 to 90, it just can't be measured properly by FPS counters. The true test of whether motion vectoring is working is to sit in the cockpit and rapidly move your head left and right, laterally. If its not working, you'll see smearing and stuttering of the cockpit instruments. Don't use the "motion smoothing" setting in the normal SteamVR menu. I have never had that setting actually do anything...and I always use the OpenVRSettingUX.exe file to turn motion vectoring on and off, which works every time. I have a shortcut to OpenVRSettings.exe on my desktop so I can get to it easily, since some VR applications on my machine don't like having that turned on. The alternative to using that file involves using your hand controllers and turning it on in the SteamVR dashboard that you would see in your headset. For me, that's just an extra PITA that I don't want to deal with. Running the .exe from the normal desktop screen is so much easier.

I have used the wireless XBox controller that came with my old Oculus Rift in DCS. I mostly use it for bringing up and navigating the kneeboard. It has its own transceiver that plugs into a USB port.

Yup, the method that Brainfreeze and freehand use is the easiest way to turn the motion reprojection on and off for a WMR headset like the G2. I just have a shortcut for it on my desktop. 3D Blu-Rays don't play well with reprojection, so I wanted a quick way to get to where I can turn it on and off. Motion reprojection should work no matter which of the two refresh rates you select. I have my refresh rate set at 90, because setting it to 60 makes me feel like my eyes are being ripped out of my head. With refresh rate set to 90, and motion reprojection set to Force On, I get a solid 45 FPS indicated on the DCS frame counter. What you see is actually double that, its just that FPS counters aren't capable of measuring the interpolated frames. I select Force On instead of Auto, just because it seems to eliminate the occasional hitches you might see when motion reprojection turns on and off automatically.