Jump to content

fael097

Members
  • Posts

    464
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by fael097

  1. hey Stang I saw some blueprints in other progression threads. one of them showed it between 140 and 160, and the other one showed 5 3/4 inches, wich would be like 146mm. i rounded up to 150mm to better fit my projects, make it easier to put things in place, without having to deal with broken numbers and stuff, and also I'm cutting the acrylic myself, not sure if I'll be able to cut dimensions precisely. hope it helps!
  2. let me know when you upload your pics, would like to take a look!
  3. nevermind.
  4. alright, so here are the plans, i didnt follow the real measures to the letter, to make it better for me to cut, but should look pretty similar: now i just have to decide where to place holes for the led lights.
  5. yep, im aware, unfortunately paying like $500 for that is too much for me at the moment. but thanks for the heads up mate!
  6. indeed, looks like the switch guard is there. gonna see how i can make it. looks like along these 7 years or so, you learned a lot about the hog. do you happen to know if the backlight lightens all labels, or just some, and wich ones? the thrustmaster warthog hotas doesnt have all of them lighten, so i was wondering how the real pit works. thanks
  7. rendered version of the plates put together: also, an approach of the backlight with sub surface scattering: will post more pics tomorrow!
  8. cool, but you sure thats from the C model? my only base is the game, and other cockpit builds, and I never saw that on any of those
  9. pics of the switches i bought, not a big deal, but i believe they'll do the trick.
  10. doing research at the moment. by the way, I didn't find pics where the EAC switch has a guard, could you show an example?
  11. indeed, helps a lot! i've been reading many build threads, but its easy to miss a few words after a hundred pages. I only assumed it had 3 plates because i saw someone doing that way in a build thread, but guess the two top ones are only one. I think he made it in 3 layers because its easier than cutting half thickness holes in the back part of the plate. not sure though. thank you deadman
  12. so I decided to start my progression thread. I don't have anything yet, so I'll accept any kind of suggestions here. I'm first creating the LASTE control panel, should be simple and easy enough, and also get me started on it, test materials, etc. my initial idea is to use acrylic only, I'll buy a sheet and make 3 plates out of it. (if i dont need different thickness for the plates, if i do, guess i'll have to buy 2 or 3 sheets). the base plate and the middle plate should simply be sanded and painted black. I have no idea what kind of paint to use, so i appreciate any ideas. the top plate, wich i believe is the light plate, im going to sand, then apply one coat of white paint, and then I'll see if I can get some adhesive letters, to place on top of the white paint, so i can apply the black coat (or coats, not sure how much im gonna need until i test) over the letters, and when it gets dry, i'll remove the adhesives, and see if i get nice engraved labels. not sure if i need to apply a clear coat over it, I assume it should be good to fix the paint and prevent premature scratches, but idk if it would make my black painting too glossy. gotta test it first. for the electronic part, i'll have to use a Leo Bodnar BU0836 (unless someone comes up with a cheaper one, perhaps one with more slots for the other plates, or i'll have to use a usb hub i guess) cuz thats about all i know in terms of electronics, buying a usb game board and assigning switches to it. the bad part is that in the end you'll need many boards, but thats what i know, and can afford. i bought two 2-position toggle switches, one 3-position, and a simple push button, that i'm wiring to the board. the bad part is that my panels wont be easily detachable, as many panels will share the same usb board, but perhaps i can figure out a solution for this later on. for now im in a small apartment, so no place to make a physical cockpit, but i plan to make a simple wooden structure later, and attach my panels to it, then cover the sides with a sheet of plywood painted gray, or something like that. (a nice warthog shark mouth painted on the side would look great) ah, almost forgot to mention, my HOTAS is a thrustmaster t-flight hotas X, wich i plan to modify later, put 4 position switches all over it, like the warthog hotas, but thats just plans. so here's my project so far: the 3 plates separated: (im still not sure on the dimensions, specially the thickness, gonna need confirmation before i actually build them) I also have no idea on what font i should use. Used arial narrow bold for now, but doesnt look like the real deal. so again, feel free to make suggestions, comments, critiques, questions, anything, i'd appreciate! cheers, Rafael :pilotfly: :joystick:
  13. thanks! but that actually doesnt show any panels, but instruments instead. I only wanted the measures of the the LASTE panel, on the left console, on the a-10c cockpit, dont you have that one? also, does anybody knows the font type that eagle dynamics used on the labels all over a-10 cockpit, panels, etc? thanks again
  14. does anyone have the dimensions of the laste panel? i just need the 3 of them, widht, lenght and height, if possible the height of the 3 plates. if no one has the dimension for the holes, i can figure out by myself, but I really need the 3 main dimensions. i tried to make an estimative, but no go, it looks way too small. i'll be starting my cheap cockpit thread, so i need some base to start with. thanks in advance!
  15. thanks guys! i'm gonna use acrylic to make the panels. just have to figure out how to layer the plates out, and how to efficiently backlight the panels. so yeah, thanks for helping out!
  16. great, decided the material, acrylic it is! just a few more questions, if you dont mind! -I thought that painting white would make a thick layer and thus, make it harder for the led lights to pass through, but i guess i was wrong? will only a black layer above, except on the writings, do the trick and stop the light, showing only on the white paint? or you use another material to block the light? -how did you engrave the panels? -how are your plate layers set up? is the "light plate" the top one? I just caught your thread, and it seems that all pics have been removed. thanks a lot mate
  17. great, thanks. so how did you cut the acrylic? with cnc aswell? also how did you paint the panels?
  18. I'm actually from Brazil, but I have some relatives in the US, if I need something from there. Other than that, I deppend on international shipping when buying stuff, what makes it way more expensive than it would be for an american citizen. (not to mention all kinds of taxes, and the fact that it's hard for me to find most of the stuff being sold here)
  19. dont let this die! its so awesome! lol
  20. hey folks, with my recent discovery of usb game boards, i decided to give home made cockpits a try. problem is, my budget is as low as possible, and im also geographically limited - outside the us. i managed to order a game board, and i can buy some switches and wires from the vendor, also some wood planks, but thats about it. cant order custom panels, cut stuff with cnc, send it to painting, thats all too expensive. but not letting it be a show stopper, I'm trying it anyways. all I need is some tips from people who have done it before, I need suggestion of materials to make my panels, how to cut them or assemble in any ways, nothing fancy, but that would do the trick. any ideas? i'd appreciate anything. thanks in advance!
  21. double post, please delete
  22. questions: -what did you use to cut the aluminium? -did you paint the aluminium black? -what acrylic is that? i can only find transparent ones, but with it, the writings would look awful. did you paint transparent acrylic with white paint? -what are the spessures of the aluminium and the acrylic? thanks in advance
  23. guess i'll never know until i test track ir. i assembled a perfect clip for free track - it sucks in game. then i bought a ps3 eyecam for the fps, used facetracknoir - also sucks. seriously, its impossible to use, head will never stop, you will never be able to click switches efficiently, its the most lame thing ive ever seen. the slght, but constant head movement, even when your heading is standing still, is more annoying than anything. free face trackings bothers me instead of helping. how can track ir be so different?
  24. guys, I want to buy a hotas stick, but no way in hell I can afford a TM warthog. I just bought a TM Tflight hotas X, and I assigned all my commands, but two modifiers? ffs, i have to memorize 3 functions for every button. not to menton when you hold the wrong modifier, and reset your SPI or boresight the TGP when you dont want to. anyways, I want to buy an old hotas, any model will do it i think, doesnt need to be working, gonna put my own buttons on it. anyone selling for cheap? thanks
×
×
  • Create New...